[pablo]

hi

Can anyone give me advice on removing a fsa non-drive side crank arm? My understanding is the 10 hex bolt is unscrewed to tighten the crank arm onto the spindle (it has an arrow and “tighten”) and screwed in to remove the arm from the spindle. This isn’t working for me. When I screw the bolt in it goes loose and then starts to tighten again I then use an extension bar for some leverage but I run out of mussle and it still won’t budge. I gave it same sharp taps with a rubber mallet but it won’t budge. I could feel the frame flexing so thought I’d better stop. I’ve sprayed the thing with penetrating oil and will have another go tomorrow.

Any ideas? This should be easy

Topic

[MatthewH]

Pretty happy to find this
Pretty happy to find this thread! Answer: don’t try and unscrew in the opposite direction of where it says tighten… Or something…!

Cheers – shame it took me so long to get to this forum, was trying to watch YouTube vids.

[pablo]

Thanks for that when I saw
Thanks for that when I saw your image I figured it out. Was going the wrong way :”( spent about 2 hours stripping and cleaning bits off the bike thought I might have to replace my bb30 but it’s still going strong after 5000 miles and no maintanance. I’ve bought a quarq crank so looking forward to giving that ago tomorrow.

[Guernsey Donkey]

There is a ring with a hole
There is a ring with a hole in the centre that you put the 10mm Allan key through. This ring is LH threaded hence the tighten marking that is opposite to normal.

The bolt inside the ring that releases the crank (turn the normal way) will initially go slack then will tighten up again as it presses on the back of the ring which helps to pull the arm off the crank.

If the ring was removed first the bolt would come out but leave the arm stuck on the crank.

The picture below shows the ring top left and the bolt that sits behind it top right. Note that it is the ring that is LH not the bolt.

[Author]

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