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A beginner’s guide to building your first bike tool set — the essentials you need to start your journey towards becoming a home cycling mechanic

Want to swerve costly repair and maintenance fees by taking care of some (or perhaps even all) of your bike maintenance at home? Get started with these essentials to assemble your ultimate cycling arsenal!

If you're just getting started on your journey to become a home cycling mechanic, you'll be relieved to know that you don't actually need a vast array of specialist bike tools. Most essential jobs can be done with a few good quality standard tools and a handful of bike-specific ones. Here's our guide to the must-have tools for your toolkit if you're looking to become more self-sufficient, with links to tool-specific buyers guides so you can find the right tool for the job and your budget.

toolkit

Building up your own bike tool kit can help you keep your bike running better by fixing those niggles that we all come across regularly, and in the long run you will almost always save money over paying for servicing.

With the right tools, there are loads of jobs you can tackle from your own home, though the specific tools you'll need depend on the types of things you're prepared to do. Each bike’s different, but there are many tools common to almost all bikes. Bear in mind also that the adage ‘buy quality, buy once’ really does apply when it comes to bike tools. Good tools work better, last longer and are less likely to damage the parts you’re working on. Think of them as an investment, not a cost.

Having a tool kit doesn't mean you have to do everything yourself, and we're by no means here to discourage you from taking your bike to an experienced mechanic at your local bike shop when the situation calls for it. Attempting a 'big job' by yourself with little experience could end up costing you more than paying a professional, so choose you battles wisely. Plenty of us here at road.cc still use our bike shops regularly, as investing in specialist tools you're only going to use once or twice a year sometimes isn't economical. On the other hand, buying some good Allen keys to tighten things, or a decent pump and tyre levers to fix a puncture, will start to pay off very quickly.  

workshop bench with tools

> How to keep your bike running smoothly

It's worth noting that this guide isn't for experienced home mechanics with a pro mechanic-level bike toolkit, and the tools listed here will not handle every mechanical emergency. Instead, it's designed for those who are just starting out or are ready to move beyond relying on their local bike shop, and begin tackling some basic maintenance tasks on their own. Still, if you fit into the former category and are still reading this, feel free to pop any advice in the comments.

Without further ado, here are some of the essential tools to invest in for those more straightforward jobs to help get you started... 

Workstand 

silver bike in bike stand

> Best bike repair stands

First and foremost, if you're going to do any work on your bike, whether it's a simple adjustment or a bigger repair, a workstand is an essential piece of equipment. The good news is, you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a good one either.

Being able to hold your bike steady and clear of the floor makes any job easier and your back will thank you for not leaning over a bike for hours on end too. 

Ball-end Allen keys 

ball-end allen keys

> 13 easy pre-ride bike checks (plus 6 vital ones) to ensure your ride is problem-free

A good set of Allen keys are simple to use, and will allow you to carry out a wide range of adjustments, since many components on bikes rely on hex bolts. 

Unlike standard Allen keys, which only work when inserted straight into a bolt, ball-end Allen keys have a rounded tip that allows you to turn a bolt from an angle, making it easier to reach awkward bolts, like mudguard mounts on the inside of fork legs, speeding up many jobs. 

Don't skimp on Allen keys, as you'll be using them a lot. As well as being harder and more accurately made, and therefore less likely to mash the bolts you tighten with them, high-quality keys have a narrower neck for the ball, and therefore work at steeper angles, making them more versatile.

Torx keys

torx keys

It may well be that not all bolts on your bike are compatible with Allen keys, especially if you ride a newer bike, so you may need a set of Torx keys as well. Torx fittings are becoming increasingly common on bikes, and like Allen keys, they come with both plain or ball-end versions.

Torx keys have a six-pointed, star-shaped tip that often provides better torque transfer than Allen keys, reducing the risk of slippage and minimising the chance of rounding off your bolts.

Torque wrench 

torque wrench

Like Allen keys, a torque wrench is a vital tool for handling most bike maintenance tasks. Most bolts on bikes, particularly carbon bikes, have a stated torque tolerance. A torque wrench helps prevent the risks of over-tightening, which can be costly and dangerous. With a torque wrench, you can get the bolts on your bike as tight as they need to be and — importantly — no tighter.

Over-tightening can strip threads, damage components, or even cause them to fail, while under-tightening can lead to parts coming loose, which can also be dangerous. By following the manufacturer's recommended torque settings, you can avoid these issues. 

Torque wrenches don't have to be expensive either. For example, Ritchey offers a torque key with 4 or 5Nm settings, ideal for tasks such as adjusting stem and seat post bolts. 

Pedal spanner

pedal spanner

> Best clipless pedals

Depending on what pedals you have, it may also be worthwhile adding a 15mm pedal spanner to your growing collection of tools. If you look at your pedals from the inside of the cranks and there's a hexagonal socket on the end of the spindle, you will likely need an 8mm Allen key. 

Pedals can be notoriously stubborn, and it's worth remembering that one of them has a reverse thread so that it doesn't undo when you're riding along. A proper pedal spanner will give you a better chance of leveraging off pedals, and is usually thinner than a regular spanner to fit between the pedal and crank arm. A standard 15mm spanner will fit some pedals, but others need the thinner jaws of a specific pedal spanner.

Cable cutters

cable cutters

> How to replace a gear cable

If your bike's got brake and gear cables, it's worth getting a proper set of cable cutters with blades shaped to keep the cable strands together. 

Do not try and cut cables with pliers, scissors, sidecutters or any other vaguely sharp snippety-chop tool you have kicking around, as you'll just make a mess of them. 

Chain wear gauge and chain tool 

chain wear gauge

> How to clean your bike chain

You can keep an eye on the wear of your chain by measuring its length over 12 full links with a good quality ruler (or 10 if yoiu prefer metric measurements). If it’s stretched by 0.5% on an 11- or 12-speed chain it's time to replace it, and on 10-speed or below you can get away with 0.75%. A wear gauge makes this easier by telling you when your chain needs ditching. You don't need a specific tool for this job, but at a few quid you might as well. 

If you want to then replace your own chain, you'll need a chain tool to remove excess links to get the right length for your bike. Most new chains come longer than needed, so you'll need to shorten it by pushing out the pins with the chain tool. You'll need to check that the chain tool is compatible with your chain though. 

chain tool

A chain tool can also be used to install a quick link. Adding a quick link to your chain can be incredibly handy, because it allows you to easily remove and reattach your chain without needing a chain tool. Once your chain is set to the correct length, a quick link simplifies maintenance tasks like deep cleaning or replacing a broken link. 

It's also useful to carry a spare quick link with you on rides in case your chain snaps. You can then make a quick roadside repair with the quick link and complete the ride. For some more tips on what to tools to take with you on your rides, check out our cycling essentials guide. 

Cassette tool and chain whip

cassette tool and chain whip

As you gain more experience with bike maintenance, adding a cassette tool (also known as a lockring tool), and a chain whip to your toolkit can be quite beneficial. Although you might not need to replace your cassette frequently, these tools are essential for removing and installing it.

The chain whip helps hold the sprockets in place while you use the cassette tool to remove the lockring that keeps the sprockets together on your bike's freehhub. 

Insulation tape 

Gorilla tape electrical tape

We are unsure if this is strictly a tool, but for securing little bits, stopping any annoying rattles coming from your inner tube valves and finishing off the application of bar tape, get some decent insulation/electrical tape anyway... preferably in black! 

What's your must-have tool? Let us know in the comments section below. 

Emily is our track and road racing specialist, having represented Great Britain at the World and European Track Championships. With a National Title up her sleeve, Emily has just completed her Master’s in Sports Psychology at Loughborough University where she raced for Elite Development Team, Loughborough Lightning.

Emily is our go-to for all things training and when not riding or racing bikes, you can find her online shopping or booking flights…the rest of the office is now considering painting their nails to see if that’s the secret to going fast…

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46 comments

Avatar
Scarey | 1 month ago
0 likes

I've never found a cable cutter that works very well, generally I try not to cut cables and coil them tightly and tuck sharp ends out of harms way. It's very noticeable that cable makers cut them with a gas gun or plasma cutter, giving a nice weld end; they obviously have little faith in mechanical cutters either! I've alwày wondered what chain whips were for, not surprising I've always used free wheel sprockets; now I know. Generally the only bike specific tools I've needed (and I do everything), are for cotterless crank and sprocket removal, a 'C' spanner is handy for adjusting bottom brackets too, oh, and tyre levers too. And those special multi tools are handy for when your on the road, a bit fiddly in the workshop but ok when your in trouble.

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froze | 1 month ago
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Do not buy tool kits, only buy tools when you need them, or if you know for sure you'll use them.

Buying a took kit means you will get some tools that you probably already have, like various screwdrivers.  It also means that if you are not an accomplished bike mechanic, you might get some tools you'll never use.

Stay away from Silca brand tools, you can buy just as good, if not better tools at a home improvement place, or on Amazon, for a lot less money.  If there is a bike-specific tool you need when the time comes just go to your bike shop or order it from Amazon.

So, buy what you need when you need it so you don't waste any money.  This tool advice goes for automotive tools and household tools as well.

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hawkinspeter replied to froze | 1 month ago
2 likes

froze wrote:

Do not buy tool kits, only buy tools when you need them, or if you know for sure you'll use them.

Buying a took kit means you will get some tools that you probably already have, like various screwdrivers.  It also means that if you are not an accomplished bike mechanic, you might get some tools you'll never use.

Stay away from Silca brand tools, you can buy just as good, if not better tools at a home improvement place, or on Amazon, for a lot less money.  If there is a bike-specific tool you need when the time comes just go to your bike shop or order it from Amazon.

So, buy what you need when you need it so you don't waste any money.  This tool advice goes for automotive tools and household tools as well.

However, it's very frustrating to begin working on your bike only to find that you're missing an essential tool, so you either have to wait a couple of days to order one or attempt to bodge together a solution that may involve damaging a component.

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froze replied to hawkinspeter | 1 month ago
0 likes

Not frustrating at all if you plan ahead and know what tools to buy that you already know how to use the tool and know how to do the job.  A lot of tools you can get the same day by going to the local bike shop.

Some tools are only used once or twice in a lifetime, cost more to buy the tool then taking the bike to the shop and have them do the job for a fraction of the cost of the tool.

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MattKelland | 1 month ago
0 likes

Get ye to Lidl and buy their basic bike tool kit currently in the middle aisle.

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thax1 | 1 month ago
0 likes

Are the Lifeline cable cutters any good? Any other recommendations?

After struggling with some rather worn side cutters on one of the kids bikes, I feel I need something better. Hard to tell on Amazon which ones are made of butter, and which ones are for winch cable trimming  1

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to thax1 | 1 month ago
1 like

thax1 wrote:

Are the Lifeline cable cutters any good? Any other recommendations?

After struggling with some rather worn side cutters on one of the kids bikes, I feel I need something better. Hard to tell on Amazon which ones are made of butter, and which ones are for winch cable trimming  1

I think any of the cable cutters should be fine for home use as you're unlikely to be cutting thousands of cables. As long as they have the curved jaws and scissor type of action, then they don't need to be very sharp to cut through a brake cable.

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mark1a replied to thax1 | 1 month ago
2 likes

thax1 wrote:

Are the Lifeline cable cutters any good? Any other recommendations?

After struggling with some rather worn side cutters on one of the kids bikes, I feel I need something better. Hard to tell on Amazon which ones are made of butter, and which ones are for winch cable trimming  1

They're fine for cutting cables, I had a set (just checked, bought from Wiggle in 2017 for £4.40!), and great value, cut cables fine, and never had an issue. As HP says, probably OK if if you're doing occasional stuff. The only reason I retired them - I used someone else's Park Tool CN-10 once and the overall feel and operation was night and day in comparision, so ended up upgrading myself, there's no question that the Park Tool ones are nicer to use, but obviously have the added "blue tax" in the price.

On a general point, the way I built up my bike tool collection was often by buying the lower priced Lifeline or other own-branded version of something, and then if it turned out that if either I used it frequently & often enough or the Park Tool or Wera version was significantly better, I would upgrade to that. There's usually a relative or friend who gratefully receives the previous one.

 

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roboito | 1 month ago
1 like

Probably the greatest investments I made were second hand bikes that needed some work. The first one, a folder needed new tyres, tubes and chain. I was OK with tyres but the rest was new to me at the time. The next bike was a big old hybrid for carrying a child seat, needed the same as the folder, a new freewheel and wheel bearings. This was another jump for me. These bikes were important and in regular use so needed to work when I wanted them to but I wasn't as worried about having a go at working on them in the same was as I was on my more expensive road bike. They allowed me to build confidence, knowledge and skill without worrying about destroying my pride and joy.

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omassin replied to roboito | 1 month ago
0 likes

Totally agree here, an old clunker is an invaluable investment for trying out your newfound mechanic skills - plus who doesn't want a new bike

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Hirsute | 1 month ago
3 likes

I'd go for this rather than the normal chain whip

https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/chain-whip-cassette-remover/_/R-p-200

 

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Rendel Harris replied to Hirsute | 1 month ago
0 likes

That looks like a fantastic idea – out of stock though, sadly. Does anyone else make a similar device?

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mark1a replied to Rendel Harris | 1 month ago
1 like

I've got this and can confirm it's excellent. It's also one of the rare things to get a 10/10 on this site https://road.cc/content/review/152537-btwin-chain-whip

Not in stock online, although the nearest store to you showing physical stock is Wandsworth, might be worth checking with the store itself before travelling.

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Rendel Harris replied to mark1a | 1 month ago
1 like

Thanks, I ride near there quite regularly so will drop in.

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ktache replied to Rendel Harris | 1 month ago
1 like

The Pedro's vice whip is a far more expensive alternative, alternative.

I would have thought about it if I hadn't gone Rohloff, that and an Abbey Crombie.

But the Rohloff requires a small, old flathead screwdriver.

I though the Pedro's mk I looked cooler.

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PRSboy | 1 month ago
1 like

My best purchase has been a torque wrench.  I love looking up the value I need which I can never find online, then the feeling of jeopardy as I wait for either the clunk of the wrench as it reaches the set torque, or the crunch of the expensive component which Im fitting.

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john_smith replied to PRSboy | 1 month ago
1 like

Good stuff. What's also exciting is undertightening screws. You might think you're playing it safe, but because parts are able to move that are not supposed to, evetually something can break when you least expect it. It once happened to me with a single-screw seat post clamp, with rather interesting consequences.

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chrisonabike replied to john_smith | 1 month ago
3 likes

Seconded - I've enjoyed taking bits apart and cautiously reassembling them, only to have them disassemble en-route.  My flat pedals upgrading themselves to lighter more aero versions (just the axles) was an interesting one.

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PRSboy replied to chrisonabike | 1 month ago
2 likes

Haha!, I've done something similar when the crank bolt came undone mid-hill and the crank fell off, so I was left pedalling along one-legged with the left-side crank still attached to my shoe with the cleat!

Happily I spotted the missing bolt a short distance back down the road.

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chrisonabike replied to PRSboy | 1 month ago
0 likes

Until I read "left side" I was thinking "Shimano Ultegra?"

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David9694 | 1 month ago
2 likes

We've got a thread* for that: https://road.cc/content/forum/those-go-bike-tools-296611

*DYSWIDT? 

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SimoninSpalding | 1 month ago
3 likes

I am disturbed by the fact that in an advice piece to beginners you have chosen to show a bike being clamped by the top tube in the workstand, which I am led to believe is a bad idea, always clamp using the seatpost!

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hawkinspeter replied to SimoninSpalding | 1 month ago
4 likes

SimoninSpalding wrote:

I am disturbed by the fact that in an advice piece to beginners you have chosen to show a bike being clamped by the top tube in the workstand, which I am led to believe is a bad idea, always clamp using the seatpost!

It's also showing a bike without wheels which is not a recommended configuration

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mdavidford replied to hawkinspeter | 1 month ago
4 likes

...and that mug is dangerously close to the edge of the workbench.

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Tom_77 | 1 month ago
2 likes

Tyre levers and a pump were briefly mentioned, I also find a tyre fitting tool useful for difficult tyres.

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brooksby replied to Tom_77 | 1 month ago
0 likes

I bought one of those when I had Marathon Pluses on my commuter bike.  I used them twice, IIRC, before they snapped.

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Losd replied to brooksby | 1 month ago
2 likes

To be fair, Marathon Plus tyres are made out of some sort of lever snapping hell-rubber.

They've cost me at least two levers and many blisters.

I guess that's the price for bomb-proof tyres.

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wtjs replied to Losd | 1 month ago
0 likes

Marathon Plus tyres are made out of some sort of lever snapping hell-rubber

I keep hearing this, but don't have any trouble myself. Maybe it's down to tiny differences in the bead seat circumference. I'm not tubeless, and I don't know if there is a Marathon Plus TR version, but my rims are TR and the beads seem to sit tight enough, but not impossibly tight

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Rendel Harris replied to wtjs | 1 month ago
0 likes

wtjs wrote:

Marathon Plus tyres are made out of some sort of lever snapping hell-rubber

I keep hearing this, but don't have any trouble myself.

I'm also nonplussed (pun intended) by hearing this so often, don't doubt others' experience but we both have M+ 35mms on the commuters and they went on as easily as any other tyres and in fact easier than many. The one time we've had a puncture with them (in 14 months/15,000kms approx), caused by a huge building trade staple that I think might have punctured many car tyres, I fixed it roadside with two tyre levers and minimal swearing.

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chrisonabike replied to Rendel Harris | 1 month ago
0 likes

Probably had 35s also but the combination of 28 M+ (with tube) and the random wheels on the old tourer was often tear-inducing - and I (had) fairly strong fingers.

Once installed they were good for ages though, including the glass-glitter-paths of the neighbourhood.

Gave them up after finding a better compromise - plus they were scary on sharp corners in greasy conditions.

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