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3 comments
General read on this topic, especially getting the installation of spacers right https://www.slowtwitch.com/Tech/Cassette_How-To_-_Part_2_3257.html
I think what you're saying is that Mavic want you to use a cassette where more of the cogs sit on a shared body, rather than more are individual.
For 10 speed 105 and Ultegra, the three biggest cogs are one unit; on non-series CS-HG500, the biggest seven cogs are one. I guess the latter spreads the load on the splines better, as discussed in the article linked above.
Thanks good article.....,So there isn't really a shimano road 10 sp cassette that is riveted across all cogs! I did do some research and found the all of the 11 speed cassettes are the same only the first couple of larger cogs are riveted (or spider arms as shimano call it) so l am less worried now thanks, but a bit perplexed by the response from Mavic and their instructions.
So the latest from Mavic is below which confirms existing cassette are fine....
my response back to Mavic....after the asked me to go back to Shimano and ask about riveted cassettes
I have and there and no road cassettes where all of the cogs on the cassette are riveted together, this also applies to brand new Shimano 11 speed cassettes. Typically on Shimano cassettes the 3 larger cogs are riveted together but not the rest of the cassette which are made up of separate cogs with spacers.
Therefore can Mavic confirm that the diagram in the guide means the larger of the cogs need to be riveted rather the whole cassette? If not it would imply that Mavic wheels aren’t designed or compatible with 10sp or 11sp Shimano cassettes.
Mavics response.....
Hello Peter,
Yes indeed there should not be any issues if only 3 of the cogs are separate from the others. I personally use an MTB cassette that has 3 of the cogs not riveted together, and it works just fine after 1 year and a half.
The diagram on the free hub is only meant for the cassettes that have all of the cogs, free.