Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I bought a carbon bike for
I bought a carbon bike for £1k, but it’s worth saying that my mates alu trek 1.9 rides better, I would say proceed with caution!If I was buying now for £1k I would shortlist the Mekk, a CAAD, the new Giant TCR and the coming-soon Kinesis Athein – all but one are alu.
I don’t think wearing road.cc
I don’t think wearing road.cc kit is naff at all, in the same way that it’s fine to wear club kit. If you don’t want it, send it my way!Tried PMing him?
Tried PMing him?I think it’s a good choice
I think it’s a good choice for a TT bike; certainly no point spending megabucks to shave a bit of weight when aero is more crucial. Both Trek and Felt do cracking alu TT bikes for like £1300.Hi, and welcome to the forum.
Hi, and welcome to the forum. My friend is 5″2″ and she is happy with a unisex cannondale synapse, so don’t feel you ‘should’ be going for female-specific. Many firms have been guilty of the ‘shrink it and pink it’ approach to women’s products, but things have improved a lot. Specialized are thought to be very good, with an entire product team dedicated to getting it right in this regard. Together with their BGFit bike fitting stuff, I reckon you could solve the whole problem with a visit to a Specialized Concept Store.See if you have one local by going here:
http://www.specializedconceptstore.co.uk/m/stores/Good post, thanks for
Good post, thanks for sharing. Certainly sound like race-only wheels from the durability aspect.Question for you – given the challenges of carbon braking tracks/pads etc, why choose them? Why not sidestep the whole question with an alu braking track like Dura-Ace C24 or something? Is it just a weight thing?
I bought some Mavics, hadn’t anticipated the weird flexy feeling at the back when I’m out of the saddle. Might have to go handbuilt next time.
My LBS reckons the stock
My LBS reckons the stock wheels with that bike are equivalent to elites anyway. Buy a garmin and a raceware mount, nice pedals/shoes etc.I’m in.
I’m in.Ha, brilliant! Saddles a bit
Ha, brilliant! Saddles a bit high though, he needs a sedan-fit.Ha, very good BB76 (maybe
Ha, very good BB76 (maybe that should be a new bottom bracket standard?!)The thing is, cycling doesn’t have to be that expensive, but in order to do that, you need the knowledge to pick up some random retro frame on ebay and the bits to go with it. I looked at the £200 thread and tried to formulate an answer to help out, but ultimately if you don’t have the knowledge, you’re going to need to spend at least some cash. I reckon I could get through a c-2-c on a £500 bike (new, that is), just about. Definitely so with £700 to spend.
Even then though, you’d be lucky to get change from £200 for the helmet (let’s not debate it), shoes, pedals, couple of pairs of shorts and a jersey, let alone wet weather gear etc.
L55 MC wrote:Hi,The 80 miles
Hi,The 80 miles sounds about right for me at the moment.Yes please for the GPX files. e-mail l.mcclusky@btinternet.com many thanksWill do.
Crosshouses
How strong is your prescription? I can’t use Oakleys because they only go up to -4.0 or -5.0 (depending on which design you choose). I need -6.5, and my Bolle Bounty prescription specs are superb. They cost £254, so that gives you an idea of how good I think they are.Personally, I try never to take my sight for granted, and won’t buy cheap specs. Not worth it.
I’m -10.5, but luckily get on OK with contact lenses. Dread to think how thick plastic lenses with that prescription would be.
The problem with expensive sports glasses for me is leaving them at cafe stops, driving off with them on the roof of the car and snapping off the arms because of following rule 37.
Ok, I believe Bolle max out at between -8.0 and -10.0 depending on the astigmatism bit (can’t remember the term – might be the ‘axis’). The lenses are MUCH thinner than you’d expect – the reason Bolle are the only ones doing this is because they took out an exclusive license on some new innovation that varies the prescription (and hence the lens thickness) across the surface of the lens, so while they might be thick in the centre (I can’t tell), they aren’t thick at the edge.
I can’t wear contacts anymore (too much drunken partying in them years ago). If you can, I’d probably just go with contacts and some decent sports specs.
Proper cycle journey indeed,
Proper cycle journey indeed, looks like some great climbs.Dunluce wrote:Out of interest
Out of interest I went and had a look at the Rapha & Reaburn on the Rapha site. Nowhere does it mention anything about it even being showerproof although it does say you shouldn’t wear a bag with it or other clothing over it as the reflective print will wear off. I won’t use it for the commute then!While we are on the subject of Rapha does anyone have any experience of their classic wind or rain jacket?
I’ve got the Rapha Paul Smith rain jacket, which is very good. It’s close fitting (size large, I’m 5’11’ and 71kg), taped seams, very waterproof. However, as suggested by David above, it’s a bit bulky. It just about fits into a jersey pocket, with a third of it sticking out (but rideable). If I wear it, it tends to be for the whole ride. It doesn’t see anywhere near as much use as you’d expect, but then I got it for £50 in a sample sale so I don’t feel like it’s difficult to justify the cost. It’s also just a nice jacket off the bike. Although it is breatheable, I do wear less under it, since it does add a little warmth.
I also have the Endura pakajak which is very good. It’s not breatheable, non-taped seams, but it’s seen some fairly awful weather and not let the rain in yet. It also packs very small. Moisture inside is only really an issue if you’re giving it the beans.
Super Domestique wrote:Tom
To the moderators – if you feel it’s better to delete this thread please do.I may be missing something here but why isn’t this up for discussion? Interesting thread!
As notfastenough rightly points out the invitation asked not to publicise the event online. My take on that was pre-event. I thought post-event would be ok. Nothing was said about not telling anyone etc on the day / at the point of sale.
However, if the mods felt it better to delete the thread, in that they thought it better not to mention it ever happened then they should feel free to do so and I’d accept that.
Hope that makes sense.
Ah – I hadn’t meant to insinuate that you shouldn’t be posting *after* the event – although re-reading my post it does look that way!
I’m sure it’s fine now. Unfortunately I can’t liberate £50 at the minute, never mind funds for that…
