Forum Replies Created
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+1 for handbuilts. You could
+1 for handbuilts. You could think of super lights at your weight, if you want them. See e.g. http://www.spadabike.com/it-it/15/stiletto/ 1260g for a few quid under £500.
Schadenfreude time! I’m still
Schadenfreude time! I’m still using rim brakes and am having none of the abovementioned problems.
OK fair enough Welsh boy,
OK fair enough Welsh boy, apologies GT85.
It’s a very light oil that will dissolve the thicker oils on cables etc and thereby ‘degrease’ them.
All compounds that oils will dissolve into – from very light oils to agressive solvents – are essentially on a spectrum. You can degrease your hands after bike repairs with olive oil, for instance.
Does the cable appear again
Does the cable appear again under the bottom bracket? If so, dont worry, the dirt/water will fall through.
If not, is there one of those thin inner liners around the cable here? You can always add a flexible waterproof boot if there is, one of these, as there usually is where the cable enters the loop for the rear mech:
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-deore-xt-m739-brake-boot-8aa-4200-each-prod18185/
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-Bike-V-Brake-Rubber-Boot-Cable-Noodles-/171029663312
If not, don’t worry too much, a tiny bit of dirt does get inside the frame, but the bottom bracket is sealed so it can’t really hurt anything.
I wouldn’t use GT85 in a place like this, its basically a degreaser. You don’t want the cable to lose its original coating.
Yes, I was going to suggest
Yes, I was going to suggest adding two quicklinks and a short length of chain. How can it go wrong?
You can’t re-use a link that’s been joined with a pin, as it will have been expanded ever so slightly. Campag says you must not rejoin a chain or you’ll die, basically, just use a quicklink if you have to redo it.
The one you want. You’ll ride
The one you want in a size that fits you. You’ll ride it more.
It will be fine, if you have
It will be fine, if you have bars with a longer reach then you can afford a shorter stem. In fact you can run the stem backwards and it will still work – true!
That’s because it’s the rake and the trail which actually makes a bike sharp or slow to steer, not the stem, though you’ll certainly notice the difference between a very short or a very long stem.
OK, so that is what you would buy. However, do you not think that with a weight limit of 95kg, the OP with weight of 92kg is kind of close to the limit??No, it’s within the limit, isn’t it. Limits include a factor of safety. They’ll be safe for the OP at 92kg because they have a 95kg limit.
I’d buy these if I had the
I’d buy these if I had the cash:
[url]http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Roues-carbone-38mm-1150g-la-paire-Superlight-38mm-carbon-wheelset-1150g-/172104966926[/url]
Suitable (depending on spoke numbers) for up to 95kg.
Try Fulcrum Racing 3. Steel
Try Fulcrum Racing 3. Steel spokes so they’re a much livelier wheel than the Zeros with their dull alloy spokes. And save a couple of hundred quid while you do it.
Whisper it, but the zeros are only a couple of ounces lighter, whatever they claim.
Adjust top and bottom limit
Is your cable on the underside of the anchor bolt on the rear mech? If it’s on the top, that will change the pull ratio and put the indexing out.
If it’s ok:
Adjust top and bottom limit screws.
Make sure cable is tight and stretched and isn’t sticking.
Adjust to line up perfectly with the 3rd smallest cog. Then with the bike on a stand check that all cogs index properly. Adjust 1/4 turn at a time.
The spacing of the smallest two cogs is slightly different, because the cable goes slacker at this point. At least on 11 speed.
phobic_sting wrote:
My first road bike :DGet a spirit level on that saddle son!
😉
+1 for Fulcrum Racing 5 – don
+1 for Fulcrum Racing 5 – don’t measure the weight, feel the stiffness!
I use them as winter wheels and sometimes forget to take them off over summer. Really extraordinary wheels for the £135 I paid for them. So lively and reactive.
+1 for Swissstop green, aka
+1 for Swissstop green, aka “SwissStop RacePro GHP II” if you’re Googling. They’re kind on alloy rims but it also pays to wipe the rims down with a tissue every time you get that brake pad slurry on them. And clean the pads with a nail file to get bits of alloy/glass out.
If you really want to improve ‘bite’, give the rims a quick wipe with vinegar after the above. But not too often!
Here’s some basic checks:
Here’s some basic checks:
– Bike Register
– Immobilise.com – older site that people used to use
– Has it been tweeted as stolen by @StolenRide or @StolenBikes_UK on twitter?
– Does the seller have a history for it, or is it very vague?
– Does the listing correctly describe the bike in detail, with notes of any modifications made, or does it just say ‘Giant bike, with gears’ or something like that?
– Is the spelling and grammar correct, or are there spelling mistakes and errors in the advert?
– Background to the photos – is it someone’s home, does it look clean and tidy and looked after, or like a mess, in a generic location that’s not easily identified?
– Is the seller’s town identified on ebay, or does it just say ‘uk’?
– Does the buyer offer collection in person from their home, or do they want to exchange it for cash in a back alley?
If all the above is ok, it’s probably a proper bargain.