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kil0ran
I’m a sucker for blue and
I’m a sucker for blue and orange so it was a no-brainer for me. £25 for a jersey I find more comfortable than my Santini retro ones from Prendas. The Santinis are much better quality overall in terms of zips and finish but these will do. The winter bibs are super comfy but I guess not a massive bargain at £50. Surprised to find that an XL in them fits me (38″ waist, 5’11”)
kil0ran
Diverge is more versatile if
Diverge is more versatile if you’re actually going to commute on it. The brakes will be little better than your current bike, don’t expect them to stop you on a sixpence and chuck you over the handlebars. They’re an easy and cheapish upgrade though – swap them to TRP HY/RD or Juin Tech R1 hybrid hydro calipers.
kil0ran
Strathbean wrote:anything from Lake, very good shoes and excellent customer service. They will be at the top end of your budget though. Or as someone mentioned above, you wont go far wrong with wide fit shimano in my experience.Wide fit Shimanos fit me well, as do the lower end normal width shoes as long as they have laces, speedlaces, or three straps. Unfortunately, as with other vendors they seem to think people with wide fit only like black.
You can check which shoes are available in wide fit here – good luck tracking them down to try them on though…
https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/apparel-accessories/footwear/lineup.html
kil0ran
R2_B2 wrote:Hey thanks for the replies.I did some googling and have found some contenders.
Cero AR30 EVO, the Hunt Race Aero Wide and Mavic Ksyrium Elite UST or the Mavic Open Pro UST after the suggestion above.
Does anyone have any experience using any of these?
Would there be a noticable improvment over the PR2’s?
Depends on where you ride and what your current average speed is. Faster you go the more that aero benefits you because drag squares with speed. Unless you’re a decent club racer or you’re currently riding on a set of 3kg wheels new wheels in the sub-£500 bracket aren’t going to make much of an improvement. Remember the difference between the PR2s and a lightweight wheelset is the weight of a half full bidon. Aero is more noticeable, but you need to be averaging up in high teens/low 20mph bracket to really benefit. You’ll go faster cheaper by working on your position and losing some weight.
Having said all that you do have the shiny new toys factor to consider. Anything new shaves 5% off your times 🙂
kil0ran
vonhelmet wrote:It’s only as good as the underlying maps. Google maps seems to be very optimistic in terms of what is navigable by bike.Komoot is crowd-sourced to a certain extent. Brilliant for gravel and cross-country, and also for finding bike paths. The roadie mapping is solid too, but it excels at the non-road stuff.
kil0ran
Good time of year to be
Good time of year to be buying, plenty of sales on.
Hunt do an Aero Sprint wheelset that comes in under 1500g that’s well within your price bracket.
kil0ran
I use Komoot, you can set
I use Komoot, you can set preferences and it will tell you if there’s any unpaved stuff on a route – and highlight it on the map. Then you can manually adjust the route if needed. I’d say it’s selling point for me is the fact that it will find bridlepaths and the like so it might not be ideal, but it’s by far and away the best bike-specific nav I’ve used. It will always seek to route you away from traffic for example. Admittedly on a recent ride that let me do a mile of Strada Bianche chalk down action on my road bike on 25s!
kil0ran
Moist von Lipwig wrote:Its a pain that the R650 only come in Silver, when the rest of the groupset may be black.Velo Orange Grand Cru or TRP 957 are good options.
Also, try the new R7000 & R8000 brakes – they’re designed to accomodate 28mm tyres with room to spare so may be a better fit. Have seen reports that they’re longer drop than the 5800/6800 brakes.
kil0ran
Might want to reverse wind
Might want to reverse wind (sticky side up) electrical tape on the bar ends before applying the bar tape over the top. Most bar tape only has a central tacky strip and it won’t withstand really hard pulls – it’s there to hold the tape in place as you wind it on more than anything else.
September 18, 2018 at 4:40 pm in reply to: Pedestrian[s] “fed up” of cyclists on pavement and not the road -Salisbury Journal #927405kil0ran
brooksby wrote:OldRidgeback wrote:I would’ve thought Salisbury’s inhabitants have rather more to concern themselves over than people cycling on the pavements. Maybe all the cyclists are flocking to see the famous cathedral?Well, it does have a 123 metre steeple, I hear…
It’s a welcome sight on NCN45 because it means climbing is over for a while and it’s a gentle pootle, mostly on shared use paths, to civilisation (i.e. the Old Mill at Harnham)
September 18, 2018 at 12:22 pm in reply to: Pedestrian[s] “fed up” of cyclists on pavement and not the road -Salisbury Journal #927399kil0ran
Salisbury cycle paths are
Salisbury cycle paths are pretty good by the standards when they were built but unfortunately most are shared use and narrow, NCN45 is a prime example. Usually busy with pedestrians because it provides a safe and scenic route from the city centre to the leisure centre, schools, and housing out towards Amesbury. Very narrow in places including a towpath under a brick arch where you’d have to be crouched over the bars like Cav to get through anywhere but right next to the fence alongside the stream. Once in town there are multiple sharp corners and crossings where you can’t see traffic approaching, and then you’ve got Russian agents to avoid.
Pauline is mostly complaining about Wilton Road, whilst there’s a cycle lane for part of that it’s usually full of parked cars…
kil0ran
If you’re wide go for a shoe
If you’re wide go for a shoe with two Boas. A single Boa won’t spread the lace pressure evenly enough, at least in my experience, and you might end up with hotspots or numb toes. Particularly since you’re coming from three strap shoes.
When I was looking recently I wanted to try some Bonts but couldn’t find anyone local who stocked them.
Northwave have also been mentioned but I found that they weren’t big enough volume-wise for the top of my foot – I had to go up three sizes(!) to even get my foot into them.
There’s also Lake but they seem to think that if you’re wide you can have any colour as long as it’s black.
kil0ran
vonhelmet wrote:
Ok, but assuming OP already has the 11 speed shifters – the expensive bit – they may as well get the 11 speed mech and cassette.kil0ran wrote:vonhelmet wrote:If you have a 10 speed cassette, it will not work with 11 speed shifters. No, not even, and never. Do not pass go, do not collect £200. You could set it up to work in literally one gear, but then every other gear would be out to an extent, more so the further you moved across the cassette from that one gear. Your description of the problem – the chain slipping in every gear – matches up with that.A ten speed cassette and derailleur can work with 11-speed shifters, but only if the rear mech is Tiagra 4700 – because the cable pull is the same for 105/Ultegra/DuraAce. You’ll just need a longer limit screw to prevent the final click from chucking the chain in the spokes.
Unless his wheels are only 10-speed compatible. It’s one of the main reasons I run ten speed – pretty much any wheel will work, and it opens up choice particularly in disc-brake wheels. Less of an issue now but a couple of years ago 11-speed stuff was certainly carrying a small premium and there was less choice.
kil0ran
vonhelmet wrote:If you have a 10 speed cassette, it will not work with 11 speed shifters. No, not even, and never. Do not pass go, do not collect £200. You could set it up to work in literally one gear, but then every other gear would be out to an extent, more so the further you moved across the cassette from that one gear. Your description of the problem – the chain slipping in every gear – matches up with that.A ten speed cassette and derailleur can work with 11-speed shifters, but only if the rear mech is Tiagra 4700 – because the cable pull is the same for 105/Ultegra/DuraAce. You’ll just need a longer limit screw to prevent the final click from chucking the chain in the spokes.
kil0ran
There’s a Buyer’s Guide here
There’s a Buyer’s Guide here
https://road.cc/content/buyers-guide/170135-10-best-cycling-workstands
Not a huge amount of help in your budget range. I’ve got one from Decathlon that’s seen me through three bike builds and lives outside in all weathers – it’s finally starting to give up the ghost so I’m saving up for something better.
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