kil0ran

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Viewing 14 replies - 1,111 through 1,124 (of 1,124 total)
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  • in reply to: Gloves and hand pain question #870333
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    kil0ran

    For flat bars I ended up

    For flat bars I ended up getting bar ends to offer another position. There’s also the option of fitting trekking bars which will get you more positions whilst still using your flat bar shifters and brakes. Quite a rare site on UK roads and they look weird but are a good cheap option (cheaper than a set of padded gloves in some cases)

    Even with the bar ends and good padded gloves I was still getting numbness after ten miles or so so I ended up with a drop bar bike which has pretty much solved it – 5 hand positions.

    On a flat bar I also tended to grip harder than I do on a drop – this will pick up road vibration which is a major cause of numbness. Also make sure you’re not riding with your elbows locked out – even on a fat-tyred flat bar you’ll lose the suspension effect offered by your elbows and generate numbness that way.

    Be careful with padded gloves – too much padding and you’ll end up with numb hands from them restricting blood flow. 

     

    kil0ran
    . . wrote:
    Another vote for auxiliary brake levers.  Lots of power, and being on the tops helps keep your CoG back on downhills.

     

    And from me. I wouldn’t feel safe on a rim-brake bike without them. Small hands weakend by too much keyboard and mouse use means I don’t have the power to pull on my Ultegra levers hard enough to stop my 17st barrelling downhill. I’ve got decent pads, 105 calipers and Ultegra-level cables/outers but still can’t get enough force out of the hoods.

    However, on my disc-braked CX (SRAM Force) I had no problems braking from the hoods so they’re also an option.

    in reply to: Upgrading from Sora…..? #869179
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    kil0ran

    As long as your wheels are 11
    As long as your wheels are 11-speed compatible it should be a straight swap if you’re sticking with mechanical discs. If you’re going full hydro it will probably work out cheaper to buy a new bike and do a frame swap (if you’re attached to the frame)

    in reply to: Wide fit cycling shoes #868283
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    kil0ran

    Road cleats or SPD? Shimano

    Road cleats or SPD? Shimano sell a range of shoes in wide fit – I wear a pair of M088 SPDs in wide which are very comfortable (I’m an H fit). Had to buy one size larger than my normal shoe size.

     

    in reply to: Customise Ultegra Di2 #868111
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    kil0ran

    Yeah you need to unplug
    Yeah you need to unplug battery.
    Blame years of working in IT Support for that tip!
    Have to say other than multishift and shift speed there isn’t much customisation for road bikes.

    in reply to: Trying out new bikes – test rides #868117
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    kil0ran

    Evans are great for this –

    Evans are great for this – they’ll even order a specific bike in to store if they don’t have it in stock.

    in reply to: Customise Ultegra Di2 #868107
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    kil0ran

    V-2-11-1 works for me from

    V-2-11-1 works for me from http://api.shimano.com/etube/public/data/upload/published/E-tube_Proj_V_2_11_1.zip

    I’ll stick it on OneDrive here

    https://onedrive.live.com/redir?resid=DE45D678BB68F7A7!9856&authkey=!ANSf5fPf9vP25kY&ithint=file%2czip

     

    Couple of things:

     

    What version of Di2 do you have? 10-speed or 11-speed? you can no longer mix 10 and 11-speed components (basically the front mech and rear mech must match). Levers/shifters aren’t covered by this (i.e. you can use 10-speed Ultegra levers with 11-speed mechs)

    Have you tried switching it off an on again? I’ve had a similar issue where disconnecting and reconnecting the battery solved it.

    Next step I would suggest is to check/upgrade firmware on each component – you can do this with just the standard junction box, you don’t need the programmer.

    Best way to do this is to disconnect all components bar the one you are upgrading and upgrade one at a time. You can update firmware on all components except the external battery (SM-BTR1). It may be that you just need to reapply the firmware to one component and doing them one at a time is less complicated. Handy to have a spare Di2 cable to do this, particularly if you’re cabled internally.

    in reply to: Paris-Nice #867797
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    kil0ran
    TERatcliffe26 wrote:
    On P-N website I have him as 21st.

    The results posted in this thread are incorrect as they are missing Porte who finished 11th and shits everyone down a space

    Harsh

    in reply to: Salisbury Cycling Clubs #866565
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    kil0ran

    Cycling is great round there,
    Cycling is great round there, nicely lumpy to the south west and good connections to the New Forest. Also chalk drovers trails for a Strada Bianche experience. Active time trialling scene as well, particularly around Ringwood (not sure about Salisbury). Can’t comment on clubs but there are few better places to cycle in the UK. Sure the Peak District and Lakes are more spectacular but we have the weather to compensate

    in reply to: New frame di2 ready #865933
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    kil0ran

    Will be a Chinese import.

    Will be a Chinese import. Might be good, might be utter bobbins. If it was my money I’d be dealing with a reputable dealer or even buying a second-hand frame from eBay. PlanetX do carbon framesets – £599 for a Di2-ready frame for example.

    in reply to: Natural electrolyte drinks. #865349
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    kil0ran

    I’ve used this in my bottle

    I’ve used this in my bottle for a while on long rides but most of the time just go for H2O:

    http://www.viridian-nutrition.com/Shop/Sports-Electrolyte-Fix-Liquid-P698.aspx#

    Just salt, chloride, potassium, and magnesium

    Tastes better than coconut water and is cheaper

    in reply to: WEBSITE:Annoying slide-in ‘next’ panel (broken!) #863253
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    kil0ran

    Agreed. Please don’t make me

    Agreed. Please don’t make me read Cycling Weekly and be tempted by clickbait. Pleeeease…

    in reply to: Ageing Mamil’s bodies #824383
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    kil0ran

    Started riding again last
    Started riding again last year at age of 43. Didn’t bother getting checked out by doc – just self-checked my BP, blood glucose, and cholesterol. Getting on for 3 stone lost since then and almost 1000 miles on the bike, that figure will at least double in 2015 as I’ll have a ten mile round-trip work commute. Aiming to get down to sub-99kgs. No injuries yet bar a sore right knee I sorted out with riding position change. And sadly yes, I’m a MAMIL – too much chafing in delicate areas from riding in standard clothes if you’re a fat bloke

    in reply to: Road bikes for £1000 and a 120k ex rugby player #824285
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    kil0ran

    I’m 120kg and 6 foot, ride
    I’m 120kg and 6 foot, ride regularly on crap roads here in the New Forest and have never had an issue with frame or wheel damage so I think you’ll be fine. My daily hack is on a hand-me-down B’Twin Triban 3 and its certainly up to the abuse it gets. In summer I’m even on 23mm tyres at 120psi.

    Good point on the triple chainset, you’ll really appreciate it starting out although it may limit your bike choice a little as most use compacts now. One for discussion with your LBS. For some of the steep long hills round here I still end up on the granny ring. If its relatively flat and you’ve got good leg power then the bigger front ring you’ll get on a compact will give you more outright speed.

    Can’t recall the name of the company but I’ve seen reviewed on here bikes specifically built for larger blokes – so many ex-rugby players heading for triathlon as next challenge. If you’re looking for gear in your size Prendas Ciclismo goes up to 8x in jerseys (52-54″ chest, 19″ shirt collar size) and bibs

Viewing 14 replies - 1,111 through 1,124 (of 1,124 total)