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So as a followup I’ve spent
So as a followup I’ve spent the whole summer on the Layhams. Brilliant bike – looks the part, fast enough in terms of stiffness, comfy enough for decent distances, fits me like a glove. About to be re-shod with mudguards and winter wheels and will be used throughout the winter (stainless steel doesn’t rust, right?) as my tourer has now mutated into a monstercrosser running 40mm knobblies. Very likely to be my forever bike.
The new See.Sense Ace will
The new See.Sense Ace will mount to a rack
Also have a look at the B&M Toplight Line – I’ve got a dyno version but they do battery ones too. Available in 50mm or 80mm fitting
http://en.bumm.de/produkte/akku-ruecklicht/toplight-line.html
I’ve had tingling in my right
I’ve had tingling in my right hand for a while on rides over about 5 miles. Just pins and needles. Bizarrely a pair of new bibs has sorted it – all I can think is that the old ones were on the small side and the straps were cutting into my shoulders. Downright odd..
mancsi wrote:
I havent smiled so much reading responses for a while haha!
So for like £57 it should stop this issue!?
Bike shop did check the chain rings and said theyre ok. Its not particulaly a worn cassette its just 10 speed, the chain is stretched but its not outrageous.
Plus labour. Probably worth doing the rear shifter cable too, that’s easy enough even if it’s under the bar tape, you won’t need to unwrap the bars. 30 minute job tops.
Worst I’ve had it (after 70
Worst I’ve had it (after 70 mile sportive) it took two days to subside. That was the nerve supplying the pinkie & ring finger.
If it’s been a couple of weeks I’d be getting it checked by doc/physio/chiro.
Recovery is usually total rest of the hands – no mobile, keyboard, or anything strenuous
Drivetrain should be all good
Drivetrain should be all good. Give the shifters a go but I’m guessing they’ll be trashed. Check the saddle rails for bends. Seatpost probably OK but depends on how close you were to minimum insertion (missus). Rear wheel will be fine but might be a challenge to get a matching front.
In summary: get LBS to price the repairs new-for-old and that should be enough to write the bike off and give you a box of spares for the shiny new one
11-speed cassette and chain,
11-speed cassette and chain, sorted. Might need the limit screws adjusting and will definitely need re-indexing but that’s easy enough to do. Did the LBS check your chainrings for wear? If the cassette and chain are that bad they might also be damaged.
I love winding up the head
I love winding up the head-bobbers if I see them when I’m driving. Usually just coast down to 5mph until they put their phone down, or failing to keep up with the queue in front messes with their expectations and usually gets their attention back on the road.
alotronic wrote:
If you want to look beyond aluminium then the Fairlight Strael is the best option. Go slightly cheaper and you’ve got the Condor Fratello.If ally is your thing then there’s really only Kinesis or the Pilgrims. I’m certainly happy with my Bowman Layhams. Condor Italia takes 28s, as does the Pinnacle Dolomite but I can’t think of anything that’s available as a frameset that’s not straying into the CX/Gravel side of things.
All good advice, but the Mason Definition is Aluminium and is ‘cheap’ for a Mason at £1150, also the Bokeh is Alu too, for the same price with more clearance. Probably too rich for a £1700 build though.
Ah, for some reason I thought the Masons were more expensive. Agreed, good option
If you want to look beyond
If you want to look beyond aluminium then the Fairlight Strael is the best option. Go slightly cheaper and you’ve got the Condor Fratello.
If ally is your thing then there’s really only Kinesis or the Pilgrims. I’m certainly happy with my Bowman Layhams. Condor Italia takes 28s, as does the Pinnacle Dolomite but I can’t think of anything that’s available as a frameset that’s not straying into the CX/Gravel side of things.
Oh, actually, one more option – Planet X London Road SL (just launched) – that ships with 35mm tyres on a full build so should be no problem with 32s plus guards. The new Tribans (arriving early October will also have the clearance you need, but won’t be available as a frameset. Not too much of an issue if the whole bike is £600…
Seriously impressed with the
Seriously impressed with the pad in the winter bibs (hey. it was 7 degrees when I headed out this morning!), completely unnoticeable on a hard 15-mile ride. Also impressed with the fit of the tights, they didn’t migrate round my legs like my Santini and B’Twin ones do. Possibly due to the zipped cuff but they didn’t shift around the knee either. The long-sleeve jersey is definitely an early autumn rather than winter item but will team well with a merino base layer.
Definitely a brave look though, a bit all the gear and no idea particularly for a bloke my size.
Only problem now is resisting the temptation to get a Holdsworth-branded bike to match the kit 😉
Right. I managed to find a WeeHoo turbo on Ebay. He can peddle or just fall asleep. I may have even managed to convince the other half I need a new bike to replace my home botched together thing I use for carry the sprog and family rides.In my experience this works well – something along the lines of “I need something more stable with better brakes” tends to release the required budget.
Comfort really starts with
Comfort really starts with the layback of the saddle from the centre line of the BB as that fixes your knee position in relation to the cranks.
From there it is a question of what reach is comfortable for you, which will be governed by hip angle (saddle height), reach/stack and your flexibility/core strength. There is an optimum angle for this which depends on whether you’re riding mostly in the drops or tops.
It takes time to adjust to a road position that’s efficient. Usually if it’s comfortable, it’s efficient. Which bit of you aches the most after a 20-mile ride? Usually either knees, lower back, or shoulders will hurt first.
To me the position looks quite upright. What surprised me was that fitting a longer stem fixed my lower back issues, not a shorter one. It’s counter-intuitive, you’d think a longer stem would put more pressure on your back but actually it means you carry more weight on your hands.
Whilst you can tune your position relatively cheaply with different stem lengths and angles there’s only so much you can do with leg/knee position because seat post layback these days is pretty standard (either zero or 20mm)
church-goerslol
Malcontents worshipping at the altar of sloth and obesity. Their fat, wheezing kids will be so proud.
I recall a similar objection to one of the UKCE New Forest events – because it was taking place on – heaven forbid – Palm Sunday!
Saddles you really have to go
Saddles you really have to go and try. Same with bars, drops and flares and hood transitions all vary.
If you’re doing something bespoke I’d get a bike fit before buying anything, that way you get the right size frame and don’t end up (as I did with one bike) one size too big/small. Get the stack/reach measurements from your existing bike and transfer those across, taking into account that the Bokeh will probably be a little bit slacker.
I’m guessing you’ll go with Hunt Super Dyno Disc – undoubtedly the best dynohub on the market. If you’re going to be running big tyres get the Supernova mount so you can minimise tyre shading. B&M Cyo Premium will do the job. Steer clear of the Lumos U & IQ-X, you’re paying a premium for lights that are less usable than a top-end Cyo.
