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That will all work nicely
That will all work nicely together, no issues once your muscles have forgotten about front shifting.
It can be done wirelessly from a tablet with the Bluetooth sender somewhere in your wiring circuit – the EW-WU111. I would however just check the compatibility chart here https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.2.0-01-EN.pdf to make sure everything is compatible before splashing out on one.WU111 won’t work with OP’s battery and battery holder – his system only supports the EWW01, which doesn’t work with the tablet app.
Something like this is
Something like this is probably your best option – if you’ve got a Windows laptop
Is your battery definitely a
Is your battery definitely a BTR-1? Because if so you need the much more expensive SM-PCE1 charger to use eTube for firmware updates/resets, the BCR2 won’t work:
See:
Note 6 – SM-BTR1 External Battery and SM-BMR1 Mount firmware updates: The more expensive dedicate service tool (SM-PCE1 PC Interface) must be used to upgrade the firmware on the external battery/mount.The external battery and battery mount can not receive firmware upgrades via the SM-EW90 Front Junction A and the SM-BCR2 PC Interface/Battery Charger. (The SM-EW90 will work in a system with an external battery, but a firmware update can cause them to become incompatible until both are updated independently using the appropriate PC Interface and the Shimano E-Tube Project software.)
from http://carltonbale.com/shimano-di2-everything-you-need-to-know/comment-page-8/ (search BTR1)
Could be Gear Position
Could be Gear Position control
https://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/about/gearpositioncontrol.html
“NOTE
If you use combinations of front and rear derailleurs besides those recommended, the shifting-restricted range may become larger.
Restrictions on gear position can be disabled via the Customize menu in E-TUBE PROJECT. (Restrictions cannot be disabled for 52–36T or 50–34T.)”Although I don’t recall ever having that on my 6870 system.
As our squirrely friend notes, if you have the right battery charger you can download eTube software and tinker around with the settings. You can also do firmware updates using it. Need a Windows laptop though.
When doing firmware updates just make sure you do the battery first, then the battery holder, then the shifters, and then ideally front mech before rear mech. If it doesn’t solve it I’d look at potentially trying the latest external battery holder – BM-DN100. Maybe order it from somewhere that offers free returns. You’ll also need the little cable fork – TL-EW02
Just checked and the BTR-1 is
Just checked and the BTR-1 is listed as compatible with R-8050
https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/lc/ultegra_r8050/2×11
So that I think rules out any Di2 incompatibility. Not sure how you got about doing a hard reset on a Di2 battery but that’s what I’d start with if it’s possible.
The BTR-1 doesn’t support any
The BTR-1 doesn’t support any of the new intelligent features like syncro-shift and cross-chain avoidance. That might be why it isn’t listed as compatible with the R8000.
Shimano also made changes with R8x Ultegra around chainline and in particular front mech position (2.5mm further out) but that doesn’t explain why there was also an issue with 6870
What bike is it? Was it supplied with 6870 Di2? Are you the original owner?
When I ran 6870 I recall I ended up using the internal battery (the seatpost one) coupled with the external battery case from the XTR Di2 range. What I can’t remember is why – might have been compatibility, might have been thinking of future-proofing the system as I planned to get a new frame and go fully internal.
Also, all the logic and “intelligence” for Di2 is stored in the battery. If you’re not the original owner it might be worth getting your bike shop to do a hard reset on the battery. Another option is to pop along to a local club who might have someone who can lend you the full diagnostic kit. I’ve also seen people renting it out on eBay.
Edit: Actually the BTR-1 can do synchro shift, but you need the latest external battery mount (BM-DN100)
Just make sure you’ve got
Just make sure you’ve got enough room inside the shoe – winter socks are thicker and the lack of space can cause numb feet from poor circulation.
Overshoes and oversocks are the most cost-effective solution but I find them a huge amount of faff. Currently trying some Sealskinz winter socks, which also claim to be waterproof.
Wow, extraordinary. Scottish
Wow, extraordinary. Scottish law is different to English/Welsh law but I wonder if this will send a message to judges/magistrates south of the border.
I’d imagine that your
I’d imagine that your chainring bolts have worked loose. Have a look from the non-drive side. They’re torx head bolts (T25 I think, possibly T30). You can tighten them with a long driver from that side without removing the cranks. In my experience with 5800 they tend to work loose over time and are a source of difficult-to-find ticking noises under heavy load. Tend to check mine once a month and inevitably at least one is slightly loose. Would definitely result in the behaviour you experienced if more than two were loose – and like any bolted system once one bolt is loose the others start to loosen up too.
Exploded view here shows how it all screws together
That looks like it’s a frame
That looks like it’s a frame part that’s missing, not something supplied with the wheel. A dropout insert that slots into the unpainted part of the frame. Might be worth contacting Merida for advice. If they’re Merida dealers then they should be able to help so I’m puzzled why they can’t
In the quest for ever more spinny gears I went the opposite way and fitted a 46/30 crankset (FSA Tempo Adventure). All in cost ÂŁ110, including the square taper BB and took about an hour to fit. No need to resize chain, in fact I didn’t even have to drop the front mech.Hi Kil0ran, how did the crankset go? Were you pleased with it and what cassette do you run? thnx
I looked at three options for smaller chainrings – requirement was a 2×10 with ideally a 30T inner.
Options I found were:
Miche Graf (https://road.cc/content/review/265202-miche-graff-4630-sub-compact-double-chainset) – uses HollowTech BB and existing front mech. Around ÂŁ110 but not widely available
FSA Tempo Adventure – requires conversion to square taper (JIS) BB. Around ÂŁ80 for the crankset and ÂŁ20 for the BB.
Shimano GRX – requires a new front mech (although I reckon it would be OK but sub-optimal with your existing mech). ÂŁ95 plus around ÂŁ27 for the front mech (GRX 400)
So overall prices are about the same. All the usual crank lengths are available. The Tempo is the heaviest, particularly when factoring in the square taper BB. GRX is the lightest but most expensive and requires the most faff to fit because you’ll need to change your front mech.
There are other options such as the Praxis Alba, but these are much more expensive and I don’t see the point now that there’s greater choice in this market.
Of course, there’s a ready market for your old chainset if it’s not completely worn out, or it can go in the parts bin for that winter build. Overall that makes this a cheap and easy upgrade. Depending on the option you go for at most 1 or 2 hours work.
As to the outcome – for me I’ve found it really suits the off-road riding I’m doing at the moment. I can certainly winch up steeper gradients than I could with my compact. I do find I spend longer in the big ring than I used to but that’s no big issue.
Quite an extreme way to get those gears, but each to their own – happy that it works and a good indication that you can tweak beyond the stated parameters if you want 🙂One of my drop-bar bikes has an old SLX 28/42 10sp chainset and, with an 11-34 cassette and older 10sp 105 GS gears gives me enough gears for anything with luggage on road or rough stuff, though not a substitute for a MTB.
Generally speaking I think if you want seriously low gears on a road bike you need to give somethig up: weight and availability (triple) gappy (large cassette) gears for going fast (smaller chainset).
I am finding that I spend more time in the big ring with my 46/30 than I did with a standard compact. I think I’m just used to CX gearing because my commuter ran 46/36 for a while but I seem more able to push a mid-cassette ring for longer on a 46 than I did on the 50. Used to find myself quite often in really odd combinations like 34/16 on the 50/34.
In the quest for ever more spinny gears I went the opposite way and fitted a 46/30 crankset (FSA Tempo Adventure). All in cost ÂŁ110, including the square taper BB and took about an hour to fit. No need to resize chain, in fact I didn’t even have to drop the front mech.Hi Kil0ran, how did the crankset go? Were you pleased with it and what cassette do you run? thnx
Very happy with it. Paired with an 11-34 Tiagra cassette and Tiagra 4700 GS rear mech. Front mech is either the new R7000 105 or the revised 5800 105, I can’t remember which (they’re basically the same, the one with the new cable routing and on-mech tension adjustment)
Shifting is good, setup was easy, and I think it looks the part for a gravel/tourer – very functional with understated white graphics. Nice slightly textured finish. Paired with an Ultegra-level square taper BB. Everything is standing up very well to the mud, sand, and gravel I’m chucking at it on forest tracks at the moment. Somewhat unintentionally it also matches the rest of the bike because I’ve got FSA stem, bars, wheels and seatpost – a small thing but it makes my aesthetic brain happy
In the quest for ever more
In the quest for ever more spinny gears I went the opposite way and fitted a 46/30 crankset (FSA Tempo Adventure). All in cost ÂŁ110, including the square taper BB and took about an hour to fit. No need to resize chain, in fact I didn’t even have to drop the front mech.
What mech extender did you use? Personally I wouldn’t risk running a setup where all cassette/chainring combinations aren’t usuable. Easy to make shifting mistakes when you’re tired and end up destroying the mech.
