Forum Replies Created
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Yes, using 36g RideNow in
Yes, using 36g RideNow in 30mm non-tubeless GP5000. Saved 50g per wheel over latex tubes. The overall setup is lighter than any equivalent tubeless setup and from what tests I’ve seen should be at least as fast rolling if not very marginally faster.First time out had a failure but it was a pinch flat so not sure it was the tube’s fault. First attempt at patching failed but I hadn’t roughed the tube up like I would normally repairing butyl or layex. 2nd attempt held fine.
Had a few rides on them now, sounds very princess-and-the-pea but I really do think the bike feels faster and even more comfortable although I understand latex should in theory be more supple (by some microscopic amount) so not sure why they feel more comfortable.
Will stick with them on the summer bike, maybe even move the winter bike with much chunkier tyres over to them in time.
Having just added 90g of
Having just added 90g of additional tyre weight to my Basso, I can confirm you will absolutely not notice the extra 40g weight of the 105 chainset
Better yet if you can swap your existing Ultegra chainrings on to the 105 arms, I have heard it said (but not checked myself) that most of the weight savings are in the chainrings anyway?
I share your pain, I badly
I share your pain, I badly bent and cracked a lovely steel Salsa Vaya on a similar awkward slow crash (rolling down a smooth steep rock slab not realising there was a 1ft drop to flat at the bottom).Salsa helped as best they could (much better than 10%…), assisted by Charlie the Bikemonger, but I still ended up out of pocket.
Covered under home insurance?
Yeah, my case is causing me
Yeah, my case is causing me to question my own unconscious bias, it could just be someone super-fit but super modest who’s gone out and taken two very steep 5 minute KOMs on the same ride in the depths of winter OR… e-bike ?That being said, does Strava keep the flagger anonymous? ?
Here’s a twist on the
Here’s a twist on the original question – what’s the pettiest thing you’ve flagged?Got 10th on an obscure local hill today, pretty chuffed with that although it really is quite an obscure dead end climb…
Anyway, 4th and 5th respectively are both the same guy, same day, same time, so appears just to be a duplicate profile?
1st place though screams e-bike. Is 30 seconds faster than second place on a 2:43 segment, is someone with virtually no followers and a picture of their dog as their avatar and just generally doesn’t look like the profile of somebody who’s likely to be smashing local KOMs. In early January ?
Still can’t bring myself to flag either even though my OCD is screaming at me that they’re mucking up the leaderboard.
Maybe I need to take a break from Strava ?
Not ‘low’ just ‘committed’…
Not ‘low’ just ‘committed’…Massive tailwind along a bumpy farm track, was on my 29er but with gravel tyres so was perfect bike for the job. Hit a bump so fast my phone shot out of my back pocket but I figured f–k it, KOM is on, I’ll come back and try find it later, which I did, and the KOM has withstood three years of actual genuinely fast guys trying it too ?
Other than that just the standard practice of using segments as intervals on training rides so I arrive at the start fresh and warmed up, whilst of course checking I have the wind behind me also. Quite humbling to see the person in second place is only a few seconds behind you but rode the segment as part of some 100km 32km/h epic ?
Yes, sanding pads (less so
Yes, sanding pads (less so rotors) takes them back to their ‘un-bedded’ state, and I seem to recall they are quieter until they get bedded in again, at the expense of power.I guess you could try sanding them with a rougher grit sandpaper such that they take longer to smooth out, but that means you would remain underpowered for longer. Could you then increase rotor size to compensate? Hmm…
I think this is why sintered pads are reputed to be quieter in the wet, they are more porous so perhaps rougher. My experience was that they were equally noisy though.
Maybe in 5 years time when I’m tempted to try discs again I’ll get some Hope RX4s with sintered pads on 180mm discs, it will look like my MTB! ?
No, I can confidently say the
No, I can confidently say the setup and bedding in are meticulous, I’ve followed all the tricks and tips and manufacturers advice and frankly spent an unhealthy amount of time on both aspects despite neither being particularly difficult.Go watch professional road or CX races in the wet (CX in particular). Squealing ahoy! If the professional mechanics can’t get it right then frankly that’s a failure of the design, not the user.
Yes that’s fair. Personally I
Yes that’s fair. Personally I have no issues stopping in wet/icy/snowy conditions on my rim brakes with Swissstop BXP pads, which is why I get so fixated on the unpleasant noise from disc brakes, there’s no worthwhile trade-off!I doubt they’ll return to rim
I doubt they’ll return to rim brakes, mountain bikes moved to discs and never moved back, although granted the benefits of discs on an MTB clearly outweigh any disadvantages, whereas on a road bike I’m less sure.Ironically it’s winter use that puts me off disc brakes as I’ve followed ever how-to on the interweb and they still screech so badly in the wet and cold that I have switched back to rim brakes until such time as someone offers a revolutionary squeal free disc brake. Or supplies of mid-range aluminium rims dry up, whichever happens first ?
Ha! I’ve moved to 100mm on
Ha! I’ve moved to 100mm on road bikes and 90mm on gravel, at least 10mm shorter than average for my height (6ft).In fairness I’ve moved saddles back too which I find helps unweight hands and forearms, although recent back pain episodes have got me thinking about shuffling saddles forward 10mm again ?
Ah OK, sounds very ‘you’
Ah OK, sounds very ‘you’ specific!I’d asked as I’ve seen some interesting stuff on YouTube (Road Cycling Academy) recommending shorter for virtually all riders. I’m always on the lookout for things to reduce back pain although changing cranks on 4 bikes would be an expensive business ??
To be fair I lifted that
To be fair I lifted that point about moving around less on winter rides from somebody on Singletrackworld ?Curious about your 165mm cranks, what height are you, what prompted the change?
Interesting, I don’t get on
Interesting, I don’t get on with my winter bike either, almost exactly the same fit as my summer bike and my gravel bike, but always seem to end up with more low back issues. I’ve put it down to long slow steady rides in a fixed position instead of summer rides where I usually mix it up with hills etc.However back to the OP – how are the drivetrains? I saw an interesting YouTube video that seemed reasonably credible and suggested that there could be 10W difference (ish) between two otherwise reasonably well maintained drivetrains. I doubt 10W would add 2mph but (I think) I notice the difference when I refit a freshly waxed chain…
Oh god, you’ve just reminded
Oh god, you’ve just reminded me that I’ve broken my own golden rule and ordered a bike with a proprietary D-shaped seatpost ?
