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That’s a scary story. If I
That’s a scary story. If I were you, I’d have complained as soon as it was obvious that the wheels weren’t true. By using them, it implies that the company did deliver sufficient quality wheels (though obviously not), so I hope you don’t have any difficulties with getting your money back.
It looks like the direct-Chinese companies have a huge range of quality – some are brilliant and some are just rubbish.
In my experience, any cyclist
In my experience, any cyclist going slower than you is to be derided for lack of fitness/lycra/carbon fibre and any cyclist going quicker is either a professional racer or just trying too hard and taking it all far too seriously. Those cyclists going the same speed are just annoying.
I’ve had similar issues when
I’ve had similar issues when I’d tightened up the valve wrongly, but luckily it stopped the tyre from inflating properly so I had to fix it rather than keep re-inflating over several days. I managed to over-tighten the valve which broke the rubber o-ring that forms a seal against the rim.
Take the tyre off, undo the valve, give the valve hole a quick clean and re-fit the valve and try again. Also check that the valve inner core isn’t loose, though that’s unlikely to be the problem. And as others have said, make sure that you’re using some sealant in the tyre.
When tubeless is working, the tyre should just remain inflated exactly the same as with non-tubeless. If you do get a puncture, you’d probably get sealant coming out of the hole so it’d be easy to spot (no sealant coming out means that it’s already sealed and not a puncture anymore).
I can recommend the Shimano
I can recommend the Shimano Ultegra wheelset. They’re strong, have bladed spokes and are tubeless ready.
I used to use a Contour Roam
I used to use a Contour Roam 2 on my helmet and it was okay, but a bit heavy for helmet mounting. You have to manually make room on it which is annoying when you forget and then it can’t record anything more. The Fly12 is an improvement, but is much heavier and not suitable for helmet mounting in my opinion.
I think you want a type that middle of mountain bike and hybrid bike. I can suggest you the name that might suit for you….The Northwoods Springdale men’s 21-speed hybrid bike which I think would be the perfect use for you. You can choose quite rough in the plain road for your commuting. This cycle will help you in your purpose.
Why is this thread getting bumped, again? Looks like it’s being given CPR by people with very low number of posts and with English not as a first language. Maybe they’re just practising writing English for an exam or similar.
GOD NO NO NO NO NONever, ever set up non-tubeless tyres as tubeless. You are almost guaranteed to suffer catastrophic, instant loss of pressure / tyre coming of fthe rim, most likely in a hard corner, at speed.
MTB tyres are a different case.
I rode about 30 miles on them with no problem, but this was at the back of my mind and was definitely a factor in my moving the tubeless tyres back onto my older bike with UST rims.
You’d end up charging your bike once a week, rather than 3-4 times a year…Dunno about you but it’s much less hassle to charge my Garmin which lives inside the house, than my bike which lives outside.
Yep, that’d be one drawback.
What Garmin do you have that provides GPS tracking? (i.e. if it gets nicked, you can find out where it was/is)
My LBS did this with Fulcrum
My LBS did this with Fulcrum Racing rims (non tubeless) and Schwalbe Pro One tyres (tubeless). They reckon that as long as one part is tubeless, then it should work. However, the tyres lost some pressure over a couple of days, so I decided to go back to inner tubes. The last thing I want to be doing is trying to fix ghetto tubeless at the side of a road.
Just got a Genesis Zero Disc
Just got a Genesis Zero Disc – carbon fibre for the win. It’s a very racy frame and looks amazing.
I’m a Cycliq fan – the Fly6
I’m a Cycliq fan – the Fly6 for rear view and the Fly12 for the front. I reckon the Fly6 can’t be beaten for ease of use although you need to be careful with the seatpost bracket they supply – it looks like you slide the Fly6 into it, but it’ll break if you do that so you need to use the rubber straps to remove and attach it.
The Fly12 is good, but very expensive and quite heavy (presumably due to the batteries inside – non replaceable unfortunately). It’s got a built in front light, but I only use it as an emergency/backup light as you can’t point it down onto the road whilst keeping the camera facing straight ahead. The Fly6 also has a light, but it’s not as powerful and so doesn’t matter where it’s facing.
The other issue I’ve had with the Fly12 is finding a decent quick-release. As it’s heavy, you need something very secure and strong so that vibrations aren’t transmitted to it (shaky videos).
I’ve tried them on a bike
I’ve tried them on a bike (although about 15 years ago) and they don’t roll nicely at all. As MadCarew says, they feel dead – no bounce at all so any surface roughness/bumps just slow you down and absorb the energy you’re putting into them.
I’ve also tried one on a unicycle (for unicycle hockey – non-marking rubber for playing in church halls) and they work better for that – nice flat surface and you don’t care about rolling resistance.
They can ruin rims if you’re not careful as solids don’t absorb impacts so well. Pneumatics can distribute the pressure around the air cavity whereas solids will keep the impact pressure in one place – only a problem on big bumps though.
Putting them on is tough, and I ended up removing them by hacking through them with a knife.
I solved the same problem on
I solved the same problem on my Synapse (older non-disc model).
I found the trick was to use some Loctite 641 bearing fit retainer (e.g. https://www.amazon.co.uk/LOCTITE-BEARING-RETAINER-Bearing-Retainer/dp/B00AFT6FBE) when replacing the BB bearings. (You might not even need to replace the bearings with new ones, but they’re not that expensive so you might as well if you’re going to be pulling them out anyway.)
Put a small bit of Loctite around the OUTSIDE of the bearing shell (i.e. the bit that will be making contact with the inside of the frame) so that when you push them back in, they get bonded/stuck into place and that should solve any noises.
It’s certainly worth a try before trying to change the bearing system with adaptors.
You might need to repeat this if you let too much water get into the bottom bracket – BB30s like to go rusty if you don’t look after them.
If I were you, I’d replace
If I were you, I’d replace the bottom bracket bearings as you suspect they might be on their way out anyway. If not the bottom bracket, I’d start having a good look at the frame to see if there’s any hairline cracks.
I’m guessing you’re after the
I’m guessing you’re after the SPD pedals (I’ve got a pair of green ones on my road bike) which are the Wellgo M250. They can be difficult to find, but here’s some blue ones in America on Ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/US-SELLER-New-Wellgo-M250-Bike-CLIPLESS-Pedal-SPD-COMPATIBLE-Cleat-98A-Blue-/322371499050