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Last time that I checked, the
Last time that I checked, the public roads are public and there’s no expectation of privacy when in public.
I’d prefer it if the insurance companies fitted dashcams to insured vehicles and then used the footage to decide liability for traffic incidents. That way, people wouldn’t feel the need to fit their own dashcam and the insurance companies have no reason to share the footage on social media.
hawkinspeter – you had a lucky escape. That’s why I always research. Even then you can get burnt. It’s the first time I’ve moved away from big brand names , except for small independent bike builders in the UK.Yes they are assholes, but perhaps I’m the bigger one for believing their marketing.
You win some, loose some. Live and learn ………. blah blah blah
They were only about £30 so I didn’t bother with the research. When they arrived, I was suspicious as the wall thickness varied and didn’t look very well made at all. I thought I might as well see what they look like and try them out as I’d probably get some creaking/cracking to warn me if they were about to fail, but they were too rubbish for that. Since then, I haven’t bothered going for factory direct carbon – it’s just too varied.
Django – sounds like they’ve
Django – sounds like they’ve been a right bunch of assholes. If they don’t respond in a timely fashion, then you shouldn’t have much trouble getting your money back (though I’m not a lawyer).
I’m glad you found out how bad the wheels were before getting injured. In a similar fashion, I bought some really cheap integrated carbon fibre handlebars with stem from AliExpress. However, I didn’t do any research and when they arrived, I spotted that the stem hole wasn’t perfectly round which didn’t fill me with confidence. I then tried to fit them and when I started to tighten up the bolts, a crack appeared after only 4nm of tension. At that point, I gave up and chased for my money back.
That’s a scary story. If I
That’s a scary story. If I were you, I’d have complained as soon as it was obvious that the wheels weren’t true. By using them, it implies that the company did deliver sufficient quality wheels (though obviously not), so I hope you don’t have any difficulties with getting your money back.
It looks like the direct-Chinese companies have a huge range of quality – some are brilliant and some are just rubbish.
In my experience, any cyclist
In my experience, any cyclist going slower than you is to be derided for lack of fitness/lycra/carbon fibre and any cyclist going quicker is either a professional racer or just trying too hard and taking it all far too seriously. Those cyclists going the same speed are just annoying.
I’ve had similar issues when
I’ve had similar issues when I’d tightened up the valve wrongly, but luckily it stopped the tyre from inflating properly so I had to fix it rather than keep re-inflating over several days. I managed to over-tighten the valve which broke the rubber o-ring that forms a seal against the rim.
Take the tyre off, undo the valve, give the valve hole a quick clean and re-fit the valve and try again. Also check that the valve inner core isn’t loose, though that’s unlikely to be the problem. And as others have said, make sure that you’re using some sealant in the tyre.
When tubeless is working, the tyre should just remain inflated exactly the same as with non-tubeless. If you do get a puncture, you’d probably get sealant coming out of the hole so it’d be easy to spot (no sealant coming out means that it’s already sealed and not a puncture anymore).
I can recommend the Shimano
I can recommend the Shimano Ultegra wheelset. They’re strong, have bladed spokes and are tubeless ready.
I used to use a Contour Roam
I used to use a Contour Roam 2 on my helmet and it was okay, but a bit heavy for helmet mounting. You have to manually make room on it which is annoying when you forget and then it can’t record anything more. The Fly12 is an improvement, but is much heavier and not suitable for helmet mounting in my opinion.
I think you want a type that middle of mountain bike and hybrid bike. I can suggest you the name that might suit for you….The Northwoods Springdale men’s 21-speed hybrid bike which I think would be the perfect use for you. You can choose quite rough in the plain road for your commuting. This cycle will help you in your purpose.
Why is this thread getting bumped, again? Looks like it’s being given CPR by people with very low number of posts and with English not as a first language. Maybe they’re just practising writing English for an exam or similar.
GOD NO NO NO NO NONever, ever set up non-tubeless tyres as tubeless. You are almost guaranteed to suffer catastrophic, instant loss of pressure / tyre coming of fthe rim, most likely in a hard corner, at speed.
MTB tyres are a different case.
I rode about 30 miles on them with no problem, but this was at the back of my mind and was definitely a factor in my moving the tubeless tyres back onto my older bike with UST rims.
You’d end up charging your bike once a week, rather than 3-4 times a year…Dunno about you but it’s much less hassle to charge my Garmin which lives inside the house, than my bike which lives outside.
Yep, that’d be one drawback.
What Garmin do you have that provides GPS tracking? (i.e. if it gets nicked, you can find out where it was/is)
My LBS did this with Fulcrum
My LBS did this with Fulcrum Racing rims (non tubeless) and Schwalbe Pro One tyres (tubeless). They reckon that as long as one part is tubeless, then it should work. However, the tyres lost some pressure over a couple of days, so I decided to go back to inner tubes. The last thing I want to be doing is trying to fix ghetto tubeless at the side of a road.
Just got a Genesis Zero Disc
Just got a Genesis Zero Disc – carbon fibre for the win. It’s a very racy frame and looks amazing.
I’m a Cycliq fan – the Fly6
I’m a Cycliq fan – the Fly6 for rear view and the Fly12 for the front. I reckon the Fly6 can’t be beaten for ease of use although you need to be careful with the seatpost bracket they supply – it looks like you slide the Fly6 into it, but it’ll break if you do that so you need to use the rubber straps to remove and attach it.
The Fly12 is good, but very expensive and quite heavy (presumably due to the batteries inside – non replaceable unfortunately). It’s got a built in front light, but I only use it as an emergency/backup light as you can’t point it down onto the road whilst keeping the camera facing straight ahead. The Fly6 also has a light, but it’s not as powerful and so doesn’t matter where it’s facing.
The other issue I’ve had with the Fly12 is finding a decent quick-release. As it’s heavy, you need something very secure and strong so that vibrations aren’t transmitted to it (shaky videos).
I’ve tried them on a bike
I’ve tried them on a bike (although about 15 years ago) and they don’t roll nicely at all. As MadCarew says, they feel dead – no bounce at all so any surface roughness/bumps just slow you down and absorb the energy you’re putting into them.
I’ve also tried one on a unicycle (for unicycle hockey – non-marking rubber for playing in church halls) and they work better for that – nice flat surface and you don’t care about rolling resistance.
They can ruin rims if you’re not careful as solids don’t absorb impacts so well. Pneumatics can distribute the pressure around the air cavity whereas solids will keep the impact pressure in one place – only a problem on big bumps though.
Putting them on is tough, and I ended up removing them by hacking through them with a knife.