Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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Can’t you get Bluetooth connectivity on Di2?
Yes, but you need an extra box for that. I’d imagine that flashing the firmware with bluetooth would be the same as flashing via USB i.e. if the rear derailleur reports an error, then you’d need the SM-PCE1 to reset the error.
Recieved the Shimano SM-PCE1 today – plugged it in and reflashed the firmware to the rear mech and now all working correctly 🙂 An expensive solution to something that Shimano created !!! Fortunately managed to get the unit for £135 all in , £50 off the original price so now added to my Di2 connectors.You can probably recoup some costs by selling it on EBay. I did see someone hiring out an SM-PCE1 on EBay – something like £12 for a weeks use. You could always try doing that to get some cash back.
I’m a lube man. I don’t like the gunky build up you get with wax.You shouldn’t get a gunky build up with wax – the best thing about using wax is how clean it all stays. It sounds to me like you’ve tried wax and lube at the same time which is a mistake. If you use wax, you need to start with a brand new chain, degrease it completely and then wax it. Dirt won’t stick to the wax, but will stick to any grease/lube.
The main detriment to using wax is that you need to re-treat your chain more often. I use a graphite/paraffin wax mix, so I remove the chain when it becomes noisier and heat it up to reflow the wax. (Well, actually I pre-treat a spare chain so that I can swap the noisy chain with the spare)
Do you use chainlube or are you a waxer? I converted to wax a few hundred miles ago and one thing I’ve noticed is that you can hear the chain riding onto the front ring as you ride.Sounds like you need to re-wax or re-flow the wax if you’ve done a few hundred miles. I’ve found the chain needs a bit or treatment every 100 miles or so to keep it silent.
Your point being?I’ve already stated I’m not bothered about lightening whilst cycling because it’s such a minor issue, cycling with rubber on your wheels is pretty essential to modern day cycling but is no help in terms of dissapating lightning away from you whilst cycling and I was agreeing with a poster above regarding such.
So what bit of what i said don’t you agree with or are you trying to be a clever dick without actually saying anything useful?
I thought this thread needed some lightening up. (I don’t want to rain on your parade or steal your thunder.)
I’ve threaded a chain like
I’ve threaded a chain like that, but not ridden on it. As soon as I’d joined the chain and spun it round, I thought “that doesn’t sound right”. I’d bet 50p that’s the problem.
About three people a year are killed by being struck by lightening in the UK, frankly I’ve far more dangerous things to worry about and I live in the East of England which is stated as being the area with most lightening strikes in the UK.And as above, the tyres on your bike won’t do anything, the atmosphere itself is a bigger resistor to lightening than the rubber in your tyres car or bike.
The facts are undeniable:
- I always cycle with a a healthy bit of rubber between the road and me/me bike
- I’ve never been struck by lightning whilst cycling
In fact, my tyres are almost as effective as my anti-leopard rock that I keep in my garden.
I think you’d be safer on a bike than walking. You’ve got a nice layer of rubber insulating you from the road surface, so almost anything else would be struck by lightning before you would be.A typical lightning strike in the UK carries about 20000 Amps and has no problem travelling through several hundred feet of air – a few mm of rubber is no way near enough resistance to prevent a lightning strike.
When you’re walking/standing in a thunderstorm, the rubber soles of your shoes wouldn’t prevent a lightning strike, tryes won’t either.
Admittedly, I haven’t tested it, but I would have thought that the insulation would ensure that the easiest route to earth wouldn’t be through you. I’ve never been struck by lightning whilst wearing rubber soled shoes either.
I think you’d be safer on a
I think you’d be safer on a bike than walking. You’ve got a nice layer of rubber insulating you from the road surface, so almost anything else would be struck by lightning before you would be.
They look like cheapo Chinese
They look like cheapo Chinese carbon to me. I bought a set from AliExpress for around £35 and they were just rubbish. The hole for the steering stem was a bit lumpy and not very round and then cracked when tightened up to 4nm. I didn’t use them and just got my money back.
The problem with the Chinese carbon handlebars is quality control and handlebars aren’t known to be a forgiving component when they fail.
You’d be better off making your own (apologies for stealing someone else’s picture)
When you know all the fancy
When you know all the fancy-shmancy names for bike parts, like those rubbery bits that go on your wheels.
barbarus wrote:
It’s interesting to hear that some posters here who I have a lot of time for voted for all parties or even don’t care. I suppose it just shows that cycling > politics.Politicians come and go, but cycling is forever.
its definitely the Bluetooth I want as I need to do everything from iOS – I don’t own a PC of any kind, nor a copy of Windows to virtualise.Fair enough. I originally thought that you could only do the firmware update with bluetooth, but was happy to discover that you could do it from a usb connection. Luckily, I’ve got a dual-boot Windows/Android tablet that did the job (I’m usually a Linux guy though I do have a work iPhone and iPad).
As long as you’ve got the new
As long as you’ve got the new battery, you don’t need to add bluetooth to upgrade the firmware. Just download the E-Tube software (from Shimano’s website) onto a laptop and then plug the Shimano charger (BCR2) into the junction box and connect it to the laptop’s USB port.
If you add bluetooth, then you’d be able to do a wireless firmware upgrade from a phone/tablet but for the limited times you’ll be upgrading the firmware, it’s easier to just grab a laptop instead.
Just realised that you want the monitoring ability – you’d need the bluetooth for that. (Personally, I just have a look at where the chain is).
I’ve got Cycliq Fly12 and a
I’ve got Cycliq Fly12 and a Fly6 (front and rear) and have only had to use the footage a couple of times.
I mainly use them to avoid feeling the need to respond to aggression on the road. If I get harrassed, then I can just continue and feel smug that I’ve got them captured on video to report to police if necessary. Most of the time, I’ve calmed down and not bothered to submit the evidence unless it’s particularly egregious.
I am a free man
I am a free man