Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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@Butty – that’s really useful
@Butty – that’s really useful. I’m quite flexible, too, so I’ll have another look at the Selle Italia range.
@No Sweat – I’ve looked at
@No Sweat – I’ve looked at some of the Selle Italia range but found it a bit confusing about what widths they are.
Pro Turnix Carbon (155g) is available in 132mm, 142mm and 152mm.That looks like the kind of thing. I just tried out their saddle selector and it recommended a Pro Stealth Carbon saddle. (Sigma Sports have them in stock in the 152mm).
I’ll see if anyone comes up with a better suggestion, but that looks very promising.
@velchris – thanks, but I’d
velochris – thanks, but I’d prefer a light racy saddle rather than a heavier comfy saddle.
fenix wrote:
Too much acid ?Or not enough. Definitely not quite the right amount of LSD, though.
Just found this article that
Just found this article that goes into some detail about using hydrogen/helium in your tyres:
http://www.cyclist.co.uk/in-depth/791/why-don-t-we-fill-bike-tyres-with-helium
Hydrogen seems to be the better choice – half the weight of helium.
You wouldn’t be able to keep
You wouldn’t be able to keep enough hydrogen/helium on a bike to make any difference.
Also, if you put it in the tyres (which is the only air-tight compartment available on a bike) it would leak out relatively quickly as the molecules are smaller than air/nitrogen. This also happens with CO2 although I’d imagine that helium would escape a lot quicker.You could try to fill a huge balloon with helium which could reduce your weight (though it would increase you mass) but the increased aerodynamic drag would make you far worse off.
Hensteeth wrote:
I have a Lezyne 600xl on my bars set to full / dip at a touch of the button. Also have a Chinese torch with 18650 battery on my helmet which is like a full beam headlight. Any oncoming traffic I switch it off and the Lezyne is sufficient till they have passed. Headtorch would last about 4 hours but you can easily swap batteries. Lezyne about the same on dim setting. Have a look at BangGood or Gearbest. Very good flashlights for very little money. I think mine was about £8 on offer Inc. Battery. Had it for a year now and it is still fine.I’m a big fan of cheap Chinese 18650 torches. I tried using one (attached to handlebars) that takes a single 18650 and found that it wasn’t quite bright/wide enough for my liking, so I hunted around for ones that take 4×18650 batteries. Now that’s plenty bright enough, but you do have to be careful to aim it at the road, but then what do you expect for a torch that costs £15?
You do have to be a bit careful with buying the batteries as there’s a huge difference in quality and the power rating (mAh) can’t easily be tested without specialist equipment – have a look at http://www.torchythebatteryboy.com/ for more info.
I’ve been using a pair of
I’ve been using a pair of Prime RP-50s and can recommend them.
@KitKat – good point. Now
@KitKat – good point. Now that I think about it, I’ve had a bloke say that to me (and I’m a bloke too) as I was struggling up a hill. However, I then asked him for a lift and hung onto his back wheel for the next 10 miles or so.
I’m sceptical that these
I’m sceptical that these would be any good. I’d have thought that the zips would get fouled with mud and grit and not work very well after a few rides. I’ve also got doubts that zips would be strong enough to deal with all the forces that tyres get subjected to.
I’d rather swap tyres (or better still, swap the bike) for extreme weather rather than rely on zips. I’ve had enough zips break on bags and clothing to know that they don’t have good failure modes.
It’s a dangerous precedent to
It’s a dangerous precedent to set when you expect drivers to only look out for people wearing hi-viz.
If a driver can’t make out people in dark clothing, then they need to get their eyes checked or not be driving. Why should kids have to dress up to help incompetent drivers?
It’d be interesting to
It’d be interesting to compare 20inch wheels with pneumatics against 26inch wheels with solid tyres. My experience of solid tyres is that they don’t roll that well unless on a really good surface, so I reckon the 20inch wheels would probably win.
You might have an issue with
You might have an issue with your rim tape. It’s the tape that goes around the rim and protects the inner tube from the spokes/nipples/holes. It’s quite easy to move it or damage it when fitting a tyre and that can cause a sudden puncture if the inner tube is pressing against a sharp bit of the rim. Check the tape and if necessary, move it to cover any spokes/holes and try again.
I’ve just had a hell of a
I’ve just had a hell of a time getting the IRCs 28mm to seal on my back wheel (I’d bought them over a month ago, but have been waiting for my Schwalbes to wear out).
I tried a few tricks – seat one bead by fitting an inner tube, inflating and removing it. I was trying to get it to seat with a track pump and also a Beto tubeless canister and had no luck at all. I then thought I’d try a Milkit valve/tubeless kit to see if that made a difference and fitted it this morning.
A few hours later and still no luck at all.
Then, I thought I’d supplement the rim sealing tape (original tape supplied on the wheels) with some Gorilla tape (you can rip it to the desired width). Fitted that and re-fitted the Milkit valve. Then, I just tried the track pump and watched in disbelief as the tyre seated itself without even any sealant being added.
So, the moral of the story is to check your rim tape.