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You all know that the Onion is a satirical/comedy site, right?
Poe’s Law.
There’s scant evidence for
There’s scant evidence for echinacea being effective. There was a shady (some conflict of interest from 2 of the researchers) double-blind study that showed some evidence that it could reduce the severity of the cold, but didn’t reduce the numbers of colds caught; this involved taking it every day (ill or not). In the lab, echinacea shows anti-inflammatory properties but there’s no evidence of that in humans.
It’s NOT journalism, it’s just the propagetion of an agenda. Propaganda if you like, a bit like Goebbels.Wow – Godwinned in just 4 posts.
Sounds to me like you just
Sounds to me like you just need some clear glasses, cycling or otherwise. Currently I’m using some Uvex photochromic ones that go clear in low light conditions, but any kind should do the trick. I’ve sometimes used some cheap safety glasses – not stylish but they keep the wind (and dust/dirt) out of your eyes.
If I were you, I’d get a
If I were you, I’d get a cheaper bike first off to get an idea of the kind of riding you’re going to be doing. You can get a decent Boardman’s road bike for about £1000 that’ll be fun to ride. Ride the hell out of that for a few months and then you’ll be in a much better position to know what kind of bike/riding suits you. Buying the best bike you can afford is all well and good, but you don’t want to end up regretting the choice you made.
Remember that the single most important criteria for choosing a bike is that you enjoy riding it, so you need to know you and your riding style better to make a good choice.
For what it’s worth, I’d recommend going for a cheaper groupset than Dura-Ace. Shimano Ultegra is the next best and is virtually the same except for a few more grams, but is a lot cheaper. The next step down is Shimano 105 which is a superb groupset that is a bit cheaper than Ultegra, but still performs brilliantly.
That’s a sweet looking bike
That’s a sweet looking bike for £26!
I went the other way, putting thru-axle wheels on a QR frame with adapters inside the hub (it’ll be so worth it when the build is finished – new just brakes, rotors and a long cage rear derailleur to finish it off to make it into a stupidly quick and agile flat-barred gravel bike).So I’d imagine it’s possible to put caps in the forks / dropouts to enable QR wheels to be used. Whether or not it would be desireable from a mechanical standpoint is something else entirely – it feels like it introduces a weak stress point. As a matter of preference, I’d scout around for some thru-axle wheels instead, or switch the hubs over.
You can’t do that the other way round as the QR hole wouldn’t allow a Thru-Axle to go through it. You’d have to drill out your hub which is probably not advisable. You can only do it if the hub is designed for Thru-Axles/both.
If I were you, I’d try some
If I were you, I’d try some pet smell spray as they’re designed to break down organic compounds.
I use some Tesco Pet Care – pet stain & odour removal spray. It’s not pricey, so it’d be worth a shot – just spray it all over after cleaning your bike and see if that helps.
I reckon you’d get something
I reckon you’d get something more sensible from Royston Vasey than from him.
It depends on the particular
It depends on the particular hub. Some hubs are designed to allow either thru-axle or QR with adapters supplied with the hub/wheel (e.g. I got some Prime wheels that came with adapters for both). If a hub doesn’t have removable QR bits then you won’t be able to fit a thru-axle through the hub.
I bet that driver is the sort
I bet that driver is the sort who lives in Clifton and puts spikes on the trees to prevent birds from crapping all over his car.
What a joke. I often cycle
What a joke. I often cycle down Coronation Road and when the traffic is heavy, you’re faced with a choice of overtaking on the inside (my preferred option when there’s room) or overtaking on the outside like this chap did. It’s a bit scary going to the outside of the stationary traffic as the oncoming vehicles tend to go quite fast (there’s less traffic going that direction) and they don’t care if you’re within the dashed lines or not.
I can’t see anything particularly wrong with what the cyclist did here. If they had video of my riding, it’d probably look a lot worse as I often switch from inside to outside of traffic depending on space – a classic “weaving in and out” to really wind up the metal box people.
Sometimes, the motons can get really wound up if they’re not used to that road as there’s a “shared path” on the pavement, but it’s typically useless with the cycling side having lots of lampposts and trees (big enough to completely block the cycle side).
They’re just a little bit
They’re just a little bit late sometimes:
A stretchy fabric wouldn’t be
A stretchy fabric wouldn’t be most cyclists choice for a shoe as you don’t want your foot to move around in the shoe. I’d imagine that it might be better suited for the more ‘casual’ cyclist as in someone who prefers comfort over power. Personally, I wouldn’t be interested in that unless the amount of movement can be limited.
@alansmurphy – fair point, so
@alansmurphy – fair point, so I’ve deleted my earlier comment that supported him.
I don’t think it’s worthwhile for him to produce cycle shoes – it’s a tough market and he’d be better off trying to get established cycle shoe manufacturers to use his material (if it’s any better than gore-tex).