hawkinspeter

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  • in reply to: Aluminium Frame – Life expectancy #914155
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    hawkinspeter

    15 years is a long time. The

    15 years is a long time. The problem with aluminium is that the any repeated load will cause it to fail at some point (no idea whether that will be 15 years or 150 years). This is because aluminium has no fatigue limit (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fatigue_limit) whereas steel and titanium frames  can last forever if the stresses are below the fatigue limit.

    I’ve heard quotes of 5-10 year lifespans for aluminium frames, so I’d recommend that you get a new bike.

    in reply to: Something rubbing – help! #914033
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    hawkinspeter

    Boatsie wrote:

    Boatsie wrote:
    If it is a bearing, what’s a decent material? Reading about ceramic and harden chromoly(might be wrong). Not sure if ceramic balls will break in not always just to roll on wheels. Guessing from the price that ceramic very smooth.

    Ordinary steel bearings are perfectly fine for bikes.

    Ceramic bearings are very expensive and are probably only worth it if you plan on running them without lubricant. I’d be surprised if ceramic bearings have more than a tiny advantage.

    Here’s Road.cc’s article about them: http://road.cc/content/feature/175644-ceramic-bearings-pros-and-cons

    hawkinspeter
    Bluebug wrote:
    hawkinspeter wrote:
    That has to be jail time for leaving a scene of an incident. This is ridiculously lenient.

    Judges now don’t want to lock people up with clean records if they can help it as it can turn them into proper criminals. 

    In his case the economic difficulties of losing a job, and it being difficult to find another one  is seen as enough.  Insuring someone under 25 is expensive enough – and the small business owners I know refuse to do it – and then insuring someone who has been banned particularly of that age will be astronomically expensive.

    hawkinspeter wrote:
    Also, how can he possibly use poor eyesight as a mitigating factor? Lock him up and lifetime driving ban seems like a more sensible sentence. We don’t need drivers like him on the roads.

    If you ban everyone for life they will just drive illegally. Plenty of banned drivers and teenagers with out licences already drive illegally anyway.  They simply do not care.

    So, you’re saying that judges don’t want people to face up to the consequences of endangering other people?

    If you can’t do the time, don’t do the crime.

    If someone is driving whilst banned, it’s only a matter of time before they get caught doing something else and can then be thrown into jail. If it can be shown that bans are ineffective, then surely jail is the alternative.

    This particular moton has demonstrated that his driving is dangerous and by not stopping, he is demonstrating that he is not responsible for his actions. Jail is the only proper response.

    hawkinspeter

    That has to be jail time for

    That has to be jail time for leaving a scene of an incident. This is ridiculously lenient.

    Also, how can he possibly use poor eyesight as a mitigating factor? Lock him up and lifetime driving ban seems like a more sensible sentence. We don’t need drivers like him on the roads.

    in reply to: Satellites and stars #914055
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    hawkinspeter
    in reply to: Something rubbing – help! #914021
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    hawkinspeter

    Loose wheel bearings?

    Loose wheel bearings?

    in reply to: Some advice please…. #913825
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    hawkinspeter

    I’ve got an older Synapse

    I’ve got an older Synapse (aluminium) and they are very good bikes. They’re considered to be a more relaxed geometry for doing long distances comfortably, but they’re at the more racy end of that market if that makes sense. Basically they’re quick and comfortable.

    My one is a caliper version and that’s probably the biggest drawback with it as I have no confidence in riding it in the wet. I think the newest models have disc brakes which I now consider essential for wet riding.

    in reply to: What new bike? #913725
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    hawkinspeter

    Go for the Cannondale. It

    Go for the Cannondale. It really impressed you and they are a solid brand and it’s only a bit over budget.

    in reply to: Some advice please…. #913815
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    hawkinspeter

    Psycheonabike wrote:

    Psycheonabike wrote:
    Is a carbon frame a must?

    Your choice of tyre size will make more difference than the frame material, so go with whatever frame meets your other criteria.

    Aluminium frames are relatively cheap and light, so they’d be a good choice. They are sometimes considered to be a “harsh” ride, but the trick is to allow your tyres to absorb vibration by not having them at too high a pressure e.g. 100PSI will probably make your tyres rock hard and you’ll notice all the road imperfections.

    The Scott Speedster looks ideal. The G One tyres are generally highly regarded and are good for smooth roads or bumpy tracks.

    in reply to: Clothing and backpack. #913471
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    hawkinspeter

    Don’t forget that the parent

    Don’t forget that the parent company of Camelback eats babies or something. You may wish to boycott them or maybe pick up a cheap second-hand one (they won’t get your money if you buy it used).

    http://road.cc/content/news/237709-should-you-boycott-bike-brand-if-its-parent-company-supports-nra

    Summer rain? We’ve got snowmageddon here in the UK, though I’ve been disappointed at the lack of drifts here in Bristol. Everyone else is getting trapped on motorways and all we’ve got is a light dusting of snow.

    By the way, be careful with T-shirts if they’re made with cotton – it’s not called the death material for nothing. Cotton is the opposite of what you want in a material – holds lots of water/sweat and loses thermal insulation.

    If you don’t mind paying lots, merino wool is the best.

    in reply to: The reason I run tubeless #913449
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    hawkinspeter

    SpikeBike wrote:

    SpikeBike wrote:
    One thing I still don’t know is that I have sealant in my tyre but not sure how to replace the sealant? Or do I just deflat and add another 50mls? Am I meant to scrap out the old?

    I recently bought and fitted the MilKit valves/system and that’s the easiest way to check/replace sealant though it’s not cheap but should be a one-off purchase (per bike).

    Previously, checking sealant involves unseating the tyre and looking inside it and squirting in some extra sealant. AFAIK there’s no problem with leaving old/dried sealant inside the tube – it just adds a tiny bit of weight. You might find it therapeutic to scrape out the old bits but I’ve never bothered.

    in reply to: You don’t need much money to buy speed! #913387
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    hawkinspeter

    FUN:

    FUN:

    From Middle English fonnen (“make a fool of”) or fon, fonne (“foolish, simple, silly”), probably of North Germanic origin, related to Swedish fånig (“foolish”), Swedish fåne (“a fool”). Compare also Norwegian fomme, fume (“a fool”). More at fon, fond.

    As a noun, fun is recorded from 1700, with a meaning “a cheat, trick, hoax”, from a verb fun meaning “to cheat, trick” (1680s). The meaning “diversion, amusement” dates to the 1720s. The older meaning is preserved in the phrase “to make fun of” (1737) and in usage of the adjective funny. The use of fun as adjective is newest and is due to reanalysis of the noun; this was incipient in the mid-19th century.

    I will say little more. Cugel, you have small acquaintance with the trade, but I take it as a good sign that you have come to me for training, since my methods are not soft. You will learn or you will drown, or suffer a blow of the flukes, or worse, incur my displeasure. But you have started well and I will teach you well. Never think me harsh, or over-bearing; you will be in self-defeating error! I am stern, yes, even severe, but in the end, when I acknowledge you a worminger, you will thank me.

    in reply to: Wheel build #913143
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    hawkinspeter

    Building wheels isn’t very

    Building wheels isn’t very hard and is actually quite therapeutic.

    I’d recommend double checking that you’ve got the correct spoke lengths for your hub/rim combination. Trying to true a wheel when the spokes are just running out of thread is a chore and definitely not recommended.

    For your first wheel, it’s best to stick to a standard 3-cross pattern and triple-check that you’ve got the spokes/rim/hub orientated correctly as it’s a pain when you’ve almost finished and spot a mistake.

    Try to build the wheel with a consistent tension e.g. thread all the nipples with the same number of turns. This makes truing the wheel a lot simpler as it’ll be more or less radially true so you can then focus on lateral truing.

    If you don’t have access to a truing stand, it is quite possible to true a wheel in situ by squinting at the brake pads, but it won’t be as accurate.

    in reply to: You don’t need much money to buy speed! #913381
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    hawkinspeter

    @Wellsprop – I wasn’t

    @Wellsprop – I wasn’t expecting CAD, let alone CFD analysis. I was thinking more along the line of an old bit of plastic and scissors.

    Very impressive work and don’t listen to Cugel – it’s fun to go faster whether that’s technical competence or improved fitness.

    in reply to: You don’t need much money to buy speed! #913371
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    hawkinspeter

    Looks awesome. I too am

    Looks awesome. I too am intrigued by your plastic sheet shenanigans.

Viewing 15 replies - 2,971 through 2,985 (of 3,246 total)