Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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You don’t need a power outlet
You don’t need a power outlet near your bike to charge up Di2 – you can use a battery/power pack to do that (it’s much easier as you can just leave it charging overnight).
I’ll take my caffeine orally, thank you very much. (No, I don’t drink Alpecin or instant coffee which is almost identical AFAIK).Ah, but do you Trek down to your local stockist to buy Segafredo coffee?
Nope, I just put on some Genesis and order in some beans from a Specialized importer.
I’ll take my caffeine orally,
I’ll take my caffeine orally, thank you very much. (No, I don’t drink Alpecin or instant coffee which is almost identical AFAIK).
Of course you need a new bike, stupid boy pike!
Will it make you go faster, maybe a bit (it’ll be lighter for sure and the 40mm wheels will keep you flowing easier at higher speeds)… but enough of that nonsense, of course you need a new bike!Probably best to be safe and get 2 new bikes – one with rim brakes and one with discs.
@JohnSmith – I don’t see much
@JohnSmith – I don’t see much of an issue with strict/presumed liability as pedestrians have priority over other traffic anyway, so it wouldn’t really change the current situation. If you are particularly worried, then a camera is the way to insure against not having any evidence of what happened.
Next noob stupid question alert!
When I’m cleaning the drivetrain I usually have a liberal squirt of Muc Off MO94 to drive out any moisture in the chain but obviously I don’t want to be getting this on my rotors, pads or in the calipers either presumably.
Is it best to cover the rotor with a bag or something similar or is there a more technical solution than that?
I’d just go for aiming it so that it doesn’t go near the rotor etc.
I’m the fake-police police that’s who I am!And no wearing Team Sky clothes either!
*checks credentials*
Ok, righty-o, carry on as you were.
Wasn’t a hi-vis with POLITE on the back included in Dr Ian Walker’s research? Drivers weren’t fooled and close passed to same degree. Doubt it changes driver behaviour any more when tabard is on a horsey type.The ‘polite’ thing annoys me for some reason. Saw a bunch of BMW riding wankers ( don’t also forget pan european wankers)fully stickered up like coppers and with the polite jackets on the other day. Made me want pull past them on the back wheelie and kick them into a hedge. It’s got an air of perceived road superiority about it imo.
If you want to be a traffic cop, join the police. Leave dressing up like one for kids.
Grumpy? Who are you, the appropriate clothing police?
There seems to be far greater awareness among car drivers anout how to behave when passing horses or livestock. Time and time again around here I’ll see a driver slow their car to walking pace, go the other side the road, and accelerate away slowly when encountering a horse, only for moments later to pull an insane close pass on a cyclist at 40mph+We’re a nation of animal lovers after all, and I do wonder if there’s some hereditary deference and forelock tugging to the lord of the manor riding his horse by the serfs in their cars.
Or is it due to the fact that hitting a ton+ of horseflesh at 40mph is likely to write your car off?
I’ll go for option 2, please.
I’ve just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn’t alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.
Good advice about the pin, hate spending ages fiddling with stuff like that.
I take it the pads are resin from the factory so best to stick with them?
My bike had metal pads originally, so I replaced like with like.
The part number will be printed on the pads, so if you take them out, you can figure out which ones to get e.g. L02A is resin and L04C is metal if you have the 805 brakes.
The reason you don’t want to use different pads is due to material transfer onto the rotor. That would cause poor braking performance unless you gave your rotor a good sandpapering.
Can I just undo the pin, take them out & put them back without faffing around taking the wheel off & potentially realigning the calipers etc?
If not I’ll wait for them to wear down a bit & buy some when they need replacing. The bike is brand new & hardly ridden so was just thinking ahead.
It should only take a few seconds to remove the retaining pin and then both the pads should just lift out and can go back in again easily enough. Removing the wheel might be needed for putting in new pads as they’ll be thicker than the worn pads, so you may need to carefully push the brake pistons in slightly to make enough room for them.
Cheers, sounds easy enough in theory………
Might just take them out to see what’s in there so I can make sure I get the same when they start wearing out.
That’ll prevent your retaining pin getting stuck as well. The type of pin that has the issues is the one that screws in and has a useless flat-head screwdriver head so you can’t use any force on it without ruining it.
Make a note of the pad part number as it can be confusing getting the right replacement, or at least I managed to order the wrong pads and didn’t realise until I came to fit them.
I’ve just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn’t alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.
Good advice about the pin, hate spending ages fiddling with stuff like that.
I take it the pads are resin from the factory so best to stick with them?
My bike had metal pads originally, so I replaced like with like.
The part number will be printed on the pads, so if you take them out, you can figure out which ones to get e.g. L02A is resin and L04C is metal if you have the 805 brakes.
The reason you don’t want to use different pads is due to material transfer onto the rotor. That would cause poor braking performance unless you gave your rotor a good sandpapering.
Can I just undo the pin, take them out & put them back without faffing around taking the wheel off & potentially realigning the calipers etc?
If not I’ll wait for them to wear down a bit & buy some when they need replacing. The bike is brand new & hardly ridden so was just thinking ahead.
It should only take a few seconds to remove the retaining pin and then both the pads should just lift out and can go back in again easily enough. Removing the wheel might be needed for putting in new pads as they’ll be thicker than the worn pads, so you may need to carefully push the brake pistons in slightly to make enough room for them.
I’ve just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn’t alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.
Good advice about the pin, hate spending ages fiddling with stuff like that.
I take it the pads are resin from the factory so best to stick with them?
My bike had metal pads originally, so I replaced like with like.
The part number will be printed on the pads, so if you take them out, you can figure out which ones to get e.g. L02A is resin and L04C is metal if you have the 805 brakes.
The reason you don’t want to use different pads is due to material transfer onto the rotor. That would cause poor braking performance unless you gave your rotor a good sandpapering.
I’ve just used the Shimano
I’ve just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn’t alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.
What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.
Yeah +1 for Caffelatex, have also found Orange Seal does the job well too + it has an excellent applicator bottleI’m enjoying the MilkIt valves – no need for an applicator bottle when you’ve got an expensive plastic syringe.
CaffeLatex seems to be
CaffeLatex seems to be working nicely.
Got a huge puncture last night – at least 1cm in length cut that I thought wouldn’t seal. Took about a minute or so before it sealed enough to pump the tyre back up and I had to re-inflate 3 more times to get home. Looking at the damage this morning, I think I’ll pop the tyre off and put something on the inside as the hole keeps wanting to leak (admittedly, it’s when I’m prodding and poking the bit of rubber that looks like it should be pulled off).
