Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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chromo1990 wrote:Legend bikes
Legend bikes in Bergamo Italy build in Titanium, steel, carbon/ titanium, and carbon. I have 2 of their bikes, I would not rate either better than the other, one is steel and the other carbon and they service the purpose for each was designed for beautifully. Legends custom build & customer service is amazing and they will assist you in deciding the best frame material for your use.Seen a few of the Legends in Bike Science in Bristol – have to say, absolutely stunning looking frames. Never thought about a blue bike before but there was one in an unusual flat, dark-ish hue that I found difficult to stop staring at… gorgeous stuff all.
You’d need an adaptor as the
You’d need an adaptor as the BB386 EVO is for 30mm spindles and the Shimano HollowTech II cranks are 24mm but, IIRC, there should be no issues with the width.Edit : e.g. Wheels MFG do one like this
386EVO Adapter for 24mm Spindle Cranks (Shimano, FSA, etc.)..sure there are a number of others.
Judge dreadful
I don’t mind the ones that use me as a draft, then bugger off into the wild blue yonder at Mach 3, they are clearly doing something different to me on that day, I don’t mind the genuinely chatty ones, who want to talk about the bikes, or the route, or exchange info about something on the route I wouldn’t have been aware of etc. it’s quite nice to have a respite from the monotony of some of the longer routes. To be fair, the vast majority of other cyclists I encounter are very much like this, it’s just a shame there are some dicks, that spoil it a bit. Anyway, there was a positive to the encounter yesterday=)) Sorry chaps
Dead Romans cannot be KOM, it says so in the Rules, I forget which one. Your achievement is meaningless because you are not a real person. What is to stop Martin Ferris from coming along later and taking KOM on another day? Also it doesn’t list what paltry speed you achieved. For someone who is crowing so loudly over this to call someone else a dick is dickish. Your fall from grace will be as swift as it is inevitable.You’re entertaining, I’ll give you that.
Oooh diddums – i’ve just realised you’re the chap who got so very, terribly upset about digitalepo. Still, as you said
“Screw Strava”
“… it’s only good for lol’s”
Sounds to me the attitude of
Sounds to me the attitude of the people you meet on your ride are not your largest issues… hey, just me maybe – although you’ll probably call me ‘poppet’ too, beats the stigma of talking to ’em or telling someone you’re a bit knackered eh ?
Later on, I had another pair,
Later on, I had another pair, who just couldn’t shut up. I guess it’s the five days of summer brigade
Talking to you or each other ?
monkeytrousers wrote:Zipp CX.
Zipp CX. Well padded and grippy. You’ll only find it in black and maybe red though. White has vanished off the face of the earth.Agree, lovely stuff. Funnily enough I still have a box lurking in a drawer.. in white 🙂 Also quite like the Bontrager stuff – easy to put on, very comfy and reasonably grippy.
BartaCoPaNibali wrote:You are
You are barking up the wrong tree. You have misunderstood “Well firstly you mentioned a bike used for ‘all purposes’ – for most that wouldn’t involve spending a lot of time at minus temperatures.”All in my dictionary means “all”. It might mean “all” also in the OP’s. I use spike tires in the Winter.
“All” is not relative. It is an absolute.
If I had meant less than all, I would have used the word “most”, or “many”.
By the way, “all”, if you are wondering, also means torrential rain, (at times, unfortunately) gale force winds, sleet and so on. Maybe it does not for you, but I rely 100% on my bike for commuting.
And that is my further point, my CX sits regularly in the bike rack at work at -10 degrees Celsius. I am glad yours does not, but I prefer not to risk testing the “experts”.
Well, well – I guess you do mean absolutely every situation conceivable, I imagine that’s very helpful to the OP. I won’t ask what equipment Edit: ‘an all purpose’ bike should have against fine sand, coarse dust, high humidity and temperature, salt and so on and so on as you’ve obviously thought about that then – hub gears i’d imagine for a start. I have most of what you do, bar the regular low temps but the rest is the same and haven’t had any problems with rim brakes, cable pull discs or hydraulics – so I don’t see the issue you think there is.
As for your temperature comment – hydraulics should be fine at that relatively innocuous temperature according to feedback i’ve heard from the people who actually use them, the people that build bikes with them and the manufacturers.. what problems did you have with them in particular ?
And BTW, I look at the pros, but I do not base my decisions on the pros. If that were the case, I would have Di2 and disc brakes on my road bike now.I didn’t suggest you only consider the pros, don’t be obtuse. A lot of people base their decisions on both the pros and cons – where the cons dictate a choice is untenable, they clearly are the gating issue. This is not one of those situations and regardless of performance, you don’t need ‘lots of time’ or money or a mechanic to use hydraulics, even in the winter. Whatever, I don’t expect you to agree – I just wanted to point out your advice my not be helpful to the OP and sounds based on unfounded fears which, when pointed out to you, you ignored instead of commented on. Hey ho.
BartaCoPaNibali
Maintenance and freezing in cold weather.However, if you have a lot of time on your hands (I do not, unfortunately) and/or money (for a mechanic) and/or do not cycle in deep Winter with minus temperatures (as I do), hydraulic is fine.
It is a bit like electronic gears: great technology, fantastic when it works, but it is one more thing which can go wrong and, when it does, it is pretty spectacular in its failure.
Well firstly you mentioned a bike used for ‘all purposes’ – for most that wouldn’t involve spending a lot of time at minus temperatures. That said, i’m not sure which hydraulics you’ve been using but i’ve generally found the maintenance to be less than with cable – albeit with some more faff if you want to bleed them. As for freezing – nah. The viscosity of the fluid can increase at lower temperatures, like grease in a mechanical set-up, and you can get some seal issues at really low temperatures (material becomes more brittle) but that is way beyond your ‘general use’ point. For a view on hydraulics in cold temperatures you might want to read some of the manufacturer and technical feedback in the following from VeloNews, in particular the points the guy from Hayes makes
Here’s one take-away
The hydraulics-in-the-cold story is pretty straightforward. The DOT systems behave well down to at least -50F. Mineral-oil systems show slower retraction starting in the -20s or so but still perform well as far as braking.
and another (for balance)
I would basically rank things as such: Down to around -15F, hydraulic brakes will work the best; some may develop a sluggish feel based on the quality of the product. Below that, DOT brakes will hold up better, but below -30F, if you really need to ride your bike, mechanicals [cable-actuated disc brakes] will be the most reliable — if you can move your fingers enough to pull the lever.
..so I can see you point if you’re regularly spending time below -30F (even then, cable pull discs are fine apparently. Remember, they’re almost all hydraulic in the end.
As for hydraulic going spectacularly wrong.. no more than any fully mechanical system. So, for a ‘bike for all purposes’ – for most of us – I would say you’re clutching at straws. If you don’t like fully-hydraulic discs or even discs period, fine – it’s your choice – but for the majority they’re a good option the pros and cons of which can be explained without recourse to FUD.
BartaCoPaNibali wrote:Forget
Forget hydraulic disc brakes. IMO they make no sense on a bike to be used for all purposes. Go mechanical.If you don’t mind me asking, any particular reason ?
Judge dreadful wrote:Screw
Screw Strava. Have you heard of digital epo?Makes a total mockery of the whole thing.
Yeah I’ve heard of it, read about the finger print it leaves and how Strava try to deal with it. All very interesting but not particularly relevant to me as I use it, as do many, to keeps tabs on our own performance and ride history.. and maybe some friends and others.. and not as some massive global willy waving experience. YMMV
Big Engine wrote:It’s
It’s strange, the rest of the site and app is quite well made, but this feature is useless.Until they change it, – apologies if you already know this – you can save segments. That way at least you can easily view your favourites.
But yes, until I learnt not to use it, it used to frustrate me too! The upside is that Strava’s free, and is an excellent tool.
Oh aye, I rarely use it and Strava is is generally very good and certainly excellent value for non-premium – it’s just that this tool is so phenomenally poor I can’t help wondering how they manage it, sort of perverse curiosity 🙂
To be fair to the OP, it is
To be fair to the OP, it is spectacularly shit – the disappearing segment on move and almost black magic furtling of scale to be able to see something you know is there being the icing on the turd cake for me. As a reasonably long time professional programmer I am constantly amazed that they can make something so essentially deterministic look unerringly like a random number generator – even the time estimates on the old Windows file copy / move dialogs looks stable in comparison.
sergius wrote:Some useful
Some useful information in those links, I hadn’t clocked that the sprint and climbers shifters were different things.I’ve got the hydraulic ST785 STIs so sprint shifters are an immediate no-no (they miss the connection). It seems I’d need to buy a 5-port dura-ace junction box to get the extra port for the climber shifters (have the 3 port ultegra one atm), which turns it from a relative cheap thing which I might do for giggles – to a much more expensive proposition.
Didn’t you want to try without the main shifters though ? That should work.
Should be fine from what i’ve
Should be fine from what i’ve heard/seen, as they’re a shifter switch in their own right and not slaved to the STI like the sprinter shifters were e.g.SW-R600 Climbing/PAVE Shifter.
This shifter is for road bikes and is mounted on the upper horizontal portion of the handlebar, or any other location comfortable for the rider. They can be used in addition to the Dual Control Brake Lever/Shifter, or can be used on their own by plugging directly into a SM-EW90-A 3-Port Junction or SM-EW90-B Dura-Ace 5-Port Junction.Shimano Ultegra and Dura-Ace Di2 Electronic Shifting – Everything You Need to Know
That said, i’ve not tried it.
Wonder if it was down to one
Wonder if it was down to one of the road.cc database burps bringing it back to the surface ?