[mattyuk2002]

OK – warning up front this is a rear derailleur noise question. I’m a pretty good bike  wrench (as the Americans would say) but neither I nor my local bike shop can figure this one out. I’ve searched everywhere and can’t find the same problem online. Don’t seem to be able to search cc forums which is odd but it didn’t throw up anything via Google anyway.

Anyway – I have noise on my rear cassette. All sprockets, but worse in the central few. 105 5700 cassette, shifters, derailleur. Currently new SRAM chain but same with original 105 chain.

It’s coming from the jockey wheels – You the derailleur “kicking” (jolting) several times per revolution. Only way to stop it seems to be to slacken the chain a bit by hand by pulling the derailleur arm down. Just because the noise is the kicking from the derailleur doesn’t necessarily mean the derailleur is at fault though. So far I’ve tried:

– New cassette and original cassette

– New SRAM chain and original 5700 chain (meshed with original cassette)

– Replaced the hanger and had alignment checked at shop

– Double-checked chain length using online calculator.

– New freehub bearings, and when that didn’t work, new wheels

– Checked frame straight (carbon, but checked anyway)

– Full strip and lube of jockey wheels which are in excellent order

– Put on a spare very-little-used Dura Ace rear derailleur. Same problem.

– Messing with the B-screw – doesn’t actually seem to do anything at all.

All I can think is to try a new shimano chain, but I feel like I’m pouring money down the sink at the moment and getting nowhere. Any suggestions on what else to check?

Topic

[Grahamd]

Are they definitely 105

Are they definitely 105 shifters you are using?

The reason I ask is that I have a new Tiagra 10 speed rear derailleur which wouldn’t work with my old 105 shifters due different pull ratios. Almost identical problem. 

[check12]

https://www.youtube.com/watch

How to Adjust a Rear Derailleur – Limit Screws & Indexing – by the park tool guy with a mustache – start at the start and finish at the end, do all steps

[hawkinspeter]

Sounds to me like it’s the ‘B

Sounds to me like it’s the ‘B’ derailleur screw that adjusts the space between cogs and the jockey wheels. If the top jockey wheel is too close to the cassette then there’s not enough space for the chain to go smoothly from around the cog to the top jockey wheel. That and maybe the chain needs to be slightly longer (put in an extra quick-link to easily test that).

[mattyuk2002]

Hi Jimmy

Hi Jimmy

• I only bought the bike recently second hand but in excellent order. It has always made the noise since I have had it. I’ve asked the previous owner if he was aware of anything, but am not holding out much hope
• Frame is original Scott Addict R3 Carbon. Chainstays around 403mm long
• Chainring 50/34. There is I would say a small difference depending on the chainring, but it’s marginal
• Lube…tried no lube (ie. SRAM chain out of the box), light oil, Muc-Off Step 4 Dry Oil. I know none of these are perfect but bear in mind it hasn’t left the house yet, and none seem to make any difference anyway.

Frame – yes I agree, but the local shop checked frame alignment and they said it was fine. Also a carbon frame, which I assume breaks rather than bends!

 

[mattyuk2002]

Thanks Nick, yes I have been

Thanks Nick, yes I have been looking sideways at my shifter too, but surely even if the indexing was out of whack I should still be able to use the barrell adjusters to get at least one sprocket to run without this infernal clicking, no?

I can’t believe it can be alignment as the setup is basically Scott stock out of the factory. I swear I’m going to lose it….

I think the clues are that

1. Reducing the chain tension seems to stop the noise
2. The noise is worst in the central few sprockets. Top and bottom aren’t nearly as bad.

[Jimmy Ray Will]

A few questions from me…

A few questions from me…

– has it always made this noise, if not, when did the noise start? 

– what is the frame you are using, and how long are the chainstays? 

– How big are your chain rings, and is there any difference in noise when using little or big ring? 

For me, if you’ve changed everything out and there is no difference, then there is something fundamentaly wrong somewhere. By the sounds of it, the only constant appears to be the frame, you and the bike shop. 

That said, what is the lube you are using there… it looks kinda funny?

[Nick T]

If all the components of the

If all the components of the drivetrain being changed doesn’t make a difference, the only thing left is your shifter – perhaps this is worn out and the indexing distances are all out of whack 

[mattyuk2002]

Thank Dinfinity. Yes all the

Thank Dinfinity. Yes all the standard stuff checked, and new cassette tried too with same result. I did have a bit of catching as you describe during this current nighmare a while back but it seems to have gone away now.

Re. B screw – yes I think it’s bearing in the right place; there is a nib on the end of the hanger arm which it seats into (photo attached). When I say it’s not working, I normally expect to see some obvious movement of the derailleur arm when screwing in and out, but I see very little. With a bit of triple-checking, it does seem to make a small difference once I’ve run through the gears and back to the largest sprocket, so does seem to be ok. Like I say though I have tried with another derailleur and it was the same.

I think I might need to take it to a more road-focused bike shop.

I will have a go at a better video.

[mattyuk2002]

Yes although in many

Yes although in many combinations never all at the same time as it doesnt seem to make any difference. All combinations however have either been with the original chain (shimano 5700, less than 0.75 wear – my measure only goes down to 0.75) or the new 10 speed SRAM. Haven’t tried the a new Shimano chain, but that’s currently my last option.

[Drinfinity]

Can you take a better video?

Can you take a better video? Use SLO-mo on your phone, and rest it steadily on something. I had similar noise that was a link catching slightly on the next larger sprocket as it came up to engage. Tooth on the larger sprocket was ever so slightly bent.

Presumably all the standard stuff is checked – no missing spacers, lock ring tight.

When you say ‘messing with’ b screw, is it set correctly? Is the screw bearing on the correct lug on the frame? Is the lug on the dropout/frame good? With 105 I’ve never found it to be too much of an issue, but SRAM Eagle is very fussy to b screw.

[Nick T]

So you’ve replaced every part

So you’ve replaced every part of the drive train – cassette, hub/wheels, chain, rear mech, chainset – and it’s still happening?

[mattyuk2002]

Will give it a go, thanks

Will give it a go, thanks HoarseMann. Just ruled out crankset wear.

[mattyuk2002]

Ditto. Just tried a near-new

Ditto. Just tried a near-new crankset and identical.

It must be a big clue here that the noise goes away when the tension is off the chain. Suggests to me the chain isn’t meshing properly with something. I might just break out the new shimano chain and see if that makes the difference. Although the original chain has no stretch to speak of and makes the same noise as the new SRAM chain.

[HoarseMann]

quelle horreur! just watched

quelle horreur! just watched the vid – you can’t live with that.

maybe it’s possessed? a light misting of holy water and a sermon should sort it?

it does sound a bit like the cassette rattle on the freehub body that I had a while ago. I’m wondering if it’s possible to remove the freehub/cassette interface from the equation by taking a thickish old rag (pipe foam, or bubble wrap even?) and wrapping it (jamming it) between the back of the cassette and spokes/hub, just enough to stop it freewheeling and preventing any cassette/freehub wobble…

[Podc]

Just for info, I replaced my

Just for info, I replaced my Ultegra crankset with new 105. No improvement ☹

[Author]

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