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Rear brake ceasing
This is a perennial problem: rear brake ceasing. I normally keep some black tape over the top of my rear brake to stop mud getting into it, but at this time of year mud just gets everywhere and works its way in from underneath. In the last week it has started to seixe up. When I brake it doesn't relax totally and the brake block stays against the rim. Very annoying. You can stop and unflick the brake, but something has to be done. Has anyone got any foolproof way of getting brakes going again, or is it replacement time?
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13 comments
In the past I had similar symptoms, and found that taking the brake off the bike and giving it a damn good clean out, and some lubrication in the right places (don't forget the cable), was helpful - though not a permanent fix.
Nowadays I just ride with disc brakes, so everything works fine in muddy conditions.
Spray it with WD40 (avoid getting any on the brake pads or wheel rim). If that doesn't fix it then replace it.
Fit mudguards to keep the crap out.
I'd undo the nut and remove it from the bike to clean it properly.
But first I'd do what hawkinspeter suggests and check that the cable isn't causing the problem.
It could be either an old worn cable inner that's snagging on the outer casing (or vice versa) or it could be the brake caliper getting a bit rusty etc.
If you disconnect the brake cable, see what happens when you squeeze and release the caliper manually - do both arms move easily and spring back? If so, then replace the brake cable inner, if not then either do a good dismantle/clean of the caliper or replace it with a nice new one.
It's definitely the caliper reflex. I guess today is another no ride sunday. Will try a hot water bath and dental floss, otherwise I need a new part. Got to keep reminding myself I am not an impoverished student anymore and time and money fixes things. Just always want things in tip top condition. Lucky I wasn't trying for the Festive 500.
Sounds like a great excuse for upgrading both calipers.
After moping around for half a day, I gave my bike a bath (in my old bath water, Mam.) Fixed a slow puncture, realigned my front derailieriur by watching youtube to fix it not shifting up onto the big ring, meanwhile took the rear brake off, gave it a soak in steradent (no I don't have false teeth,) cleaned with an old toothbrush and flossed it, then did flexs like it was a grip exerciser. Now it is all back together and my bike has had the best clean and polish it has had in 6 months.
Thanks all, I just needed to steal a bit of internet mojo. Get the toothbrush out for Christmas.
Just on other thing you might like to think about: as and when the cable to the caliper needs replacing, make sure you have a nice generous curve (not too tight) as this also cuts friction. Too tight lost me some hair as I could never get the brake to centre, and a rubbing brake is bad news at my tiny power level and gigantic weight.
I'll troll.
Get something with discs
Already have, No.2 is a Cube CX
Get something with discs
True, cable discs are much better. I didn't find that out until I got a new bike, but I agree with cleaning policy and the satisfaction it gives. I find that rims are road muck magnets, but discs (on road bikes with mudguards, anyway) just aren't. Joy- winter riding without that 'I'm grinding your rims away' noise.
Recurring mechanical issues really ruin riding experiences so I feel for you.
You don't advise what brakes you are currently using or their age but replacing them and the cables is not too expensive. When I replaced my callipers I upgraded to Shimano Ultegra I was astounded by the difference.
Either replace or get your LBS to fix. Dont take a chance with t.
Hi, I had a problems with constant rubbing and noisy brakes especially after a dirty ride. I'm not sure if the issue I had is the same but my solution was to take the pads out, spray them with a specific brake cleaner.
I then bought a birzman brake alignment tool. It's brilliant. A cheap solution to reset the calipers so they stop rubbing on the disc. There is a video on YouTube showing how they work.