Why go for a Gravel Bike? +Bike to Work Scheme.

Stuff it.
Fuji track bike was perfect with expensive aero rims. Fixed. Ideal long distance commuter on 0-2% grades. Melted. Arse end still solid but not bothering.
Ninja Shogun was perfect long distance commuter. Suicide shifts, shorter top bar flicking excess on over speed descents, lay bars to stretch comfort and taper lead to point on long fast straights.
I've had enough building bikes now..
After fire (heat, oxygen, fuel) thieves took my gravel bike. 32mm no punctuation within 2 years on crap roads.
Hence, fffff. Can't see any problems regarding reliability, 20+kmph road speeds, 25,30+ if seasonally aero and 28s here only punctured during winter storms anyhow. Plus comfortable relaxed geometry, hence long rides often without concentration.
(Just tripping out, guessing I should be sad but I'm as happy as.. Um. A well idiot)
Because I did I can believe, I momentum skidded the local mountain hair pin without rear clamp (brake started the skid but I know I'm too scared to hold brake , like a thin stay holds spar of sail that powers a big skiff, sheer wind because snap will break. , rocked up buzzing , Moz's in hospital paralyzed, stacked his wheelchair, he rolled out, although paralyzed 8 months he had coordination of 10 seconds after lifting him back onto wheelchair.
I kept laughing with him and he kept kicking foot stand.. Brother finally starting to use himself again. I go watch a movie, tell him to shut up etc, kidding. During ads he kicks my hand. 2-3 minutes every 20 plenty to wear we're where. A paralyzed mate.

Hence why go for a gravel bike? A good all-rounder with a nice turn of speed. IMHO

Thanks Sir Squirrel

I like wooden man too. Years ago I concentrated a 3inch jab, split his trunk 4 foot and was told that I'd broken my arm. I couldn't work a couple of days because I couldn't grasp a piece of paper and I was a paper sorting postman.
Wooden man surprised me later, I still don't visual the physics. I hook punched him with right and he swept my left leg. Does knot make sense yet showed me slow old wood man quick enough to find ease of path and connect.
Repairing him later, he rocks. Not sure how though, probably sawdust, glue and clamps after a cow tongue lick to clean surface.
Might rebuild the Ninja Shogun too. Be a nice summer night bike. Banged it on both agility and fast. Rims melted, thinking new aero rims tend towards 9+ speeds, duraace have 9 speed bike braced shifters, plus cow tongue paper or acid bath, new bearings, takes 28/700c max.
Here's too riding. Either or. Season rims on gravel bike or a spare rebuilt complete.
Ride on bro,
A rider that's slow.

Due to a recent FAR K.
I'm allowed to buy a bike, hand over receipt and get reimbursed but I'm going for a good quality cheap bike instead of a slightly more expensive lighter, easier shifting transport machine. Because I'm an idiot and really find non needed use of carbon composites unnecessary.
Looking at 2 bikes in particular (3), looked at a GT but only found carbon forks. I'd love a GT but don't care.
Other 2 bikes have base models with alloy forks.
Looking at CX. Looking at imaginary images on pictures of bike, they look like they'd provide a higher torque during acceleration, hence they look quick.
Tending towards the cheapest gravel bike though. Same frame volume throughout models of gravel bikes, not sure if base model is triple butt, double butt, I think it's hydroform.. It's 11.5 kg. All alloy. 2*7 speed disc brakes at 250 quid($500 Aud) with front/rear rack and guard mounts plus bottles.
7 speed, I don't torque shift, spacings easy to clean and maintain and super cheap to replace when worn. Basically a cost effective endurance set with wide stays to roll fat tyres. Wheels on bike are cheap, often hearing of spoke breakage, should be fine to hop gutters and avoid jumps with. More than plenty enough strength and maybe later a seasonal aero set with skinnies.
Gravel will offer comfort over long road rides, whereas a CX would be quicker and nimble and adopt more choice of routes but maybe not as fast on a long flat straight due to posture. Well that's Watt eye recon from this thoughtless more on anyway..
You beauty. Ride on

Just an idea.
My summer road bike could be modified to what I believe is an almost perfect gravel commuter.
Maybe idea helps?
I don't know but long drop brakes have been read to envelope 32mm tyres.

Down here loads of near 30 year old bikes are typically advertised $free-??
I paid $100. Bearings, cassette, etc all good. Double butted Chromoly with a 14 speed downtube shifter makes way about 10kg rolling very old rusty spoke rims.  The stays easily clear 35mm but the stay brace where the brake bolt is doesn't allow higher volume tyres to clear.  I ain't modifying but similar bikes with 32mm tyres are out there as are skills such as cut and weld brace higher.

32mm might be on the narrow side of gravel but it does OK here.  I was happy commuting without puncture in 28 mm armoured tyres but when I scored many punctures in a few weeks I switched.  38,35,32 mm all cope well on gravel and wet tarmac and I haven't punctured in about 2 years.
Maybe a gravel bike is a road bike with wide tyres?  Where as not so well as per off-road duties compared with a cyclocross but I thought that you know your zombie bikes?  If one is an aggressive near vintage racer then a quick weld and long brakes might get clearance to roll all winter.  Although not as wide as others.
I'd much prefer 38 mm but I don't clear more than 32 on my gravel bike.
Old downtube shifters.  I love em.  Adjust to cassette.  Don't bother to readjust until next cassette.  A rigid base,  light weight and no fore cables catching wind.  Yet I use STI.  Nicer but needing continual adjustments.
A bloke I bought a track bike/fixie from uses a mountain bike to commute.  Wide tyres on slicks tend to have small resistance.  That's off-road capable.  I think wind would get at them bars too.  Cycle cross basically a mountain bike with dropbars.
(Got bored and wrote..  Commuting without punctures is way easier.  Obviously a Tad slower or the pros would tour with fatties)

I miss informed you.
I looked up Lynskey but to my best knowledge their clearance gravel bike frames are sold.
Wishing you well

GT Grade or Boardman ADV 8.9 would be good. I've had Gravel bikes and Cyclocross bikes. The main difference is that a Cyclocross bike usually feels that you are more riding "on top" of the bike. The centre of gravity usually feels higher up. Whereas a gravel bike, especially ones with slightly flared bars, feels that you are sitting "in" the bike, like inside a cockpit.

I read cycle to work scheme includes accessories.
Maybe such suits you, maybe not.
Lynskey have titanium gravel bike frame on sale. You have zombie bikes. Would brakes, shifters, wheels suit?

I have a 35 year old 2.25 inch wide tyre bike that taught me windage breaks speed more so than tyre width. The bikes made from aircraft manufacturers alloy as best I know. Looks like new 35 years later. Light weight. Strong. Comparable to titanium.

Currently at 7 km work, a 23,28 is a couple of minutes faster. Yet about 30km would break even the time regarding skinny with 1 puncture vs wide tyres using similar road bike frames. Maybe 50km.. Tend to puncture during horrible moments.
Just a thought.

+1
I'm up there amongst your fans bro.
I wanted a GT alloy 9 speed as my commuter.
My friends are probably coming to stay a year, maybe 2 with me. I don't know what bicycle they'll choose but that's 1 of the bikes I suggested.
+1 GT fan

Another vote for an alu GT Grade with 9 speed on it, mudguards, panniers if you need them.  I've done 10k commuting miles on mine (roads, paths, canal banks) in all seasons.  Under a grand, cheap to replace the drive train.  You mght want to upgrade the brakes, I put TRP Spyres on mine as they're reasonable for cable discs and not that expensive.

I'm off topic abit.
Gravel bikes, cyclocross bikes, also behave well if your in a city that allows footpath riding, hoping gutters, pebblestone streets.
Years ago I bought the cheapest new road bike I could find and that helped me save plenty but if gravel bikes or cx bikes were around then then I recon such as a much better option due to punctures. Flat rounds but dirty with thorns and tyre volumes which pinch flat heavy loads on thin wheels. 100kg me, 20kg back pack.

In Australia we don't have a cycle to work scheme but I guess someone similar might read.
Per that reason I like these bikes. I don't know the bikes, but the Reid looks as if it uses the same frame as the higher mod models Reid offer and the 99bikes bike looks similar.
The rims are a bit shit (IMHO) but using wide tyres rather than trying to clinch skinny tyres sort of makes the rims perfect. Nothing really wrong with the rims though, I used them 10 years with about 2 years daily with a 23mm front and 28 high volume rear and recently gave that bike to a friend whom lost his car license.
7 speed are nice. Very low maintenance(high durability), very low weight and very low cost.
Years ago I convinced another friend to ride, he bought a road bike similar to above. The shifters work perfect.
Discs I have no idea about. Brakes too. My bikes similar to these but older, heavier, 9speed and rim brakes. It literally took me about a year to make the brakes effective but my worry was the clearance on the true rims. Wider tyres are a lot more gentle on the rims.

To me I'm thinking the cycle to work scheme means you still have to pay the cost of the bike.
These wouldn't be as fluent as a 1000 quid bike but at 300quid would be a great starting bike to someone similar. (Not knowing route)

https://www.99bikes.com.au/pedal-raider-2017

https://www.reidcycles.com.au/granite-1-0.html

Boardman being 10sp. a 11-36 are available and should fit no problems

My wife's bike has 40mm G Ones with mudguards, no issues with fitment or clearance

My last three rides:

West Yorks to Whitby with 3km stony/grassy bridleways above and along Ryedale, Gravel roads through Danby Forest and the cinder track from Scarboro' to Whitby.

Esk valley and 4 km over gravel bridleways to Danby Beacon.

Spin above Wharfedale and Nidderdale with 8 km of moorland tracks.

I wouldn't have contemplated any of them without my gravel bike. You WILL have more fun armed with a bike you can take off road and a few OS maps for inspiration.

To answer specific points: I've got cable discs. They're much better than rim brakes for off road, not as good as hydraulics (IMHO) and are a bit off a faff to keep adjusted. I do know that I can fix them with a spare cable and pads and aTorx key though. Worth thinking about if you plan long wild rides or multi day tours.

Get one with a big cassette and small chainrings. Too many  so called gravel bikes have (albeit easy) road gearing. The Boardman recommended above has F32/R32 easiest  gear, but even that might be too stiff for steep loose gradients, especially loaded up. Be prepared to swop out the chainset or cassette if you're hitting long or steep ascents.

Take a look at Evans' Arkose range, or GO outdoors' Calibre Dark Peak.(Might need a chainset swop to fit my criteria, but FSA Tempo 46/30 would be a cheap and easy fix.)

I very nearly hit the button on a Cycle to work scheme purchase recently but read the small print about pensions. If you're any where near retirement age check how salary sacrifice might affect your pension.

I've long had reservations about the 'end of scheme' payment with C-to-W. I've thought about it a few times and never felt I got satisfactory answers about how much I'd have to pay to actually own the bike.

Fat tyres and mudguards may not mix. If you're going to commute regularly, a spare set of wheels might be useful.

Have fun!

There are some useful comparisons on YouTube, GCN especially have a video specifically on gravel vs CX bike (and vs road). Gravel is longer wheel base and lower bottom bracket and more mount points for mud guards and racks vs CX. This makes them more stable and less twitchy generally. CX are more agile, easier to carry on your shoulder, higher bottom bracket to avoid objects and pedals hitting the ground mid corner (designed for racing, repurposed for commuting). Personally, Gravel is better for commuting and as a winter road bike IMO.

Defo get hydraulic disc brakes, I have both mechanical (TRP semi-hydraulic Hy-rd) and full hydraulic are so much easier maintenance and better performance.

I have a GT Grade alum 105, very good example for a #2 bike I find (except the non full hydraulic disc brakes, only major thing to change on my 2016 version, newer ones may be full hydraulics by now). Good luck.

A "proper" CX bike will have a shorter wheelbase and more agressive/racy geo compared to a gravel bike. Might also not have as much tyre clearance as the UCI limit for competition tyres is 33mm

The £1,000 limit applies at the employer end, not the scheme end. To lend above £1,000 to an employee for something like this the employer needs a consumer credit licence.

You mention "under £1000" in the same breath as "Cycle to Work scheme". In case you are making a correspondence there, my understanding is that there is no such limit, although things don't appear crystal clear yet:

https://www.cyclescheme.co.uk/cycle-to-work-scheme-any-price#1

For £1,000 you're probably looking at respectable alu and decent kit on it, or carbon with more corners cut. You might get hydro disc brakes fr £1,000 but maybe not on a carbon frame, for example.

As said, the main benefit of a gravel bike is tyre clearance, so get something with big clearance so you can put big tyres and mudguarde on it.

In terms of the end of year settlement on cycle to work, I've run the numbers and the cheapest option is the extended hire where you pay a lower amount to continue the arrangement for another three years.

I ride to work.
I built my bike.
My stuff up was thinking I'd get 38 mm tyres through the rear end.
I managed 32mm and they suit me.

I haven't ridden 10,11speeds.
I've been using 7,8 and 9 speeds and I'd recommend them. Probably just as easy, plenty of ratios, probably cheaper to replace during service.
I've used 35 and 38 mm. I like both. Even 32 are cruisy. But having clearance to roll 40,45 would be really awesome on a daily ridden bike. I rarely clean any but it'd be easier.

Mudflaps, guards whatever they're labeled..

Normal people should love riding to work. I love it because it reduced my transport cost to a budget of $2 per week and my food budget thickens my wallet now that the body demands fruit veg nuts spices, crap making stuff like that.

In Australia I like the look of the Reid cyclocross bikes. The cheap one is probably better than what I ride most days but who cares.

The advantage I see of wide tyres on road is a more accurate traveling time prediction (no more flats although flats were rare) and grip during wet.
Heavy load capable too if tool carrying.
Pros and cons........... More..

Hence. Feel a bike you like riding.
Way cheaper.

Join British cycling to get 10% discount from m Halfords
Buy this. https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bikes/adventure-bikes/boardman-adv-8-9-...$ja=tsid:94971|cid:1536900164|agid:68019195339|tid:pla-528817615811|crid:336627210401|nw:g|rnd:13981530253214289287|dvc:m|adp:1o1|mt:|loc:9046219&gclid=Cj0KCQjwn_LrBRD4ARIsAFEQFKspZyrTmYlkTddIcahHHVXMp13axtvmIyOufY6JjC1EZ8hKkIhtvAIaAtIdEALw_wcB

Disc brakes, the hydraulic ones are virtually maintenance free(apart from wear of pads/rotors). Keep the rotors clean of oils with brake cleaner and enjoy fantastic braking performance in all weathers.

Fit some mudguards to above bike and it will run great through winter. Maintenance is the key to having a good reliable bike.

Difference between gravel and CX is larger tyres and slightly more relaxed geometry.

The gearing on the Boardman will take you virtually anywhere