[ibr17xvii]

Just got a disc brake road bike for the 1st time so please be gentle!

In the process of setting it up & pretty much every time I have the wheel off I’m getting rub. Is that just the way it is with disc brakes?

I’ve read about undoing the 2 bolts, pressing on the lever to move the calipers & then do up the bolts again whilst the lever is still pressed to centre them but seems a faff to have to do that every time.

Wondered if maybe I’m not reinserting the wheel correctly as it does seem to take me a couple of goes to get the hang of it. When I’m trying to line up the rotor in the caliper I’m finding it quite difficult so maybe I’m moving the pads / calipers then when I’m fiddling around? Not even attempted the back wheel yet Think that will staying on permanently at this rate!

Any tips on wheel replacement, centreing the calipers or any disc brake stuff in general greatly appreciated!

 

Topic

[Jules Brown]

I changed most of my bikes

I changed most of my bikes over to disc brakes about 10 years ago. I commute morning and night all year round  in Helsinki (so lots of wet, cold and horrible mess). I changed after two of my rim braked bikes suffered collapsed rims from really rapid rim wear, which took me by surprise. And discs just work better.

 

About the point about how to re-install the wheel. For my cable-disc braked bikes it is a faff, and to be honest I try to avoid removing wheels unnecessarily. It’s difficult to get them back in exactly the same spot that they came from. But there is one trick you could try; with the wheel on the ground mount the bike onto the wheel so that there is weight pushing the drop-outs onto the axle, give the wheel a waggle side-to-side to check that there is no dirt/fluff/whatever in the drop-out (you should feel clear clicks each time the axle hits the drop-out), maintain downward pressure on the bike while it is kept vertically aligned and tighten the QR very firmly. This might help.

 

About cleaning; I’ve never found a need to clean the rotors, but I still do. Usual soapy water and rinsing seem to make no difference to performance or lifetime. I’ve never used any special products. There was one occasion when I “accidentally” got some WD40 on the pads and rotors which rendered the brakes totally useless. I tried all sorts of trick to recover the pads (cleaning, filing, burning, baking..) but they never recovered and went in the bin. Nowadays I’m very careful about where I spray stuff near the bike.

 

P.S. one of my favourite bikes still has rim brakes and I ride that one quite differently!

[hawkinspeter]

bluemarina wrote:

I think what you are discribing is precisely the main disadvantage of disc wheel! Sorry for not being of much help!

Not really – this is a problem with a crap retaining pin/screw. I’ve never had a problem with a normal retaining pin that doesn’t screw in.

[bluemarina]

I think what you are

I think what you are discribing is precisely the main disadvantage of disc wheel! Sorry for not being of much help!

[hawkinspeter]

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you…

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round – the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there’s a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

I wouldn’t mind if I was Mr Universe & I’d put too much force through it but I’m certainly not!

Wondered if a very very thin layer of grease would be any good on the screw / bolt although obviously being very careful not to contaminate the pads or rotors. To be fair that wouldn’t have helped when I was clearly too heavy handed with the head…….

I tried putting WD40 on it and leaving it overnight and it made no difference. As far as I can tell, they find the softest metal possible to make the slotted heads – in fact, it wouldn’t surprise me if it was silver painted butter.

[ibr17xvii]

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you…

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round – the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there’s a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

I wouldn’t mind if I was Mr Universe & I’d put too much force through it but I’m certainly not!

Wondered if a very very thin layer of grease would be any good on the screw / bolt although obviously being very careful not to contaminate the pads or rotors. To be fair that wouldn’t have helped when I was clearly too heavy handed with the head…….

[hawkinspeter]

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you…

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.

I had it the other way round – the rear was fine and the front seized.

I just went to check mine and the front seems a little stiff, so I might give it a clean soon to prevent any issues.

I totally agree with you about the screws. Flat head screws are just the wrong ones for that use and what really grinds my gears is that you hardly need to have a screw/thread as there’s a retaining clip anyway. They could have just used a split pin.

[ibr17xvii]

HawkinsPeter wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you…

Fair point well made!

Thought I would be able to get them out easily enough but apparently not.

Front was fine but I guess the rear is a different matter with all the road grime etc getting involved.

You learn by your mistakes I guess but Shimano must take some share of the blame as well. the screws aren’t fit for purpose IMHO.

[hawkinspeter]

ibr17xvii wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

If only someone had warned you…

[ibr17xvii]

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

Looks like a trip to the LBS is unavoidable in this case which is really frustrating.

I’ll be replacing front & back with allen heads as well, the screws are diabolical.

[hawkinspeter]

ibr17xvii wrote:

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

The screws are rubbish as I found out and the dust produced by the pads/discs tends to help them seize as well.

I took mine to a bike shop and got them to do it. I asked how they’d managed and they just used a Dremel (tiny electric saw with a circular head) to cut a new slot in the screw and got it out that way.

I’ve swapped my screws for the hex-head ones in the hope of avoiding the problem next time (which reminds me, I should check they aren’t seized).

[ibr17xvii]

Anyone able to offer any

Anyone able to offer any guidance how I can get this out without a trip to the LBS? Screw head is a proper mangled mess

Either I’m stronger than I thought or these screws aren’t the greatest………

[ibr17xvii]

HawkinsPeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

hawkinspeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

hawkinspeter wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

hawkinspeter wrote:

I’ve just used the Shimano pads. I have heard from somewhere (probably this site) that you shouldn’t alternate metal and resin pads on the same rotor, but I have no idea how true that is or what the consequences are.

What I do recommend is either replace the shitty pad retaining pins or make sure you loosen/tighten them once in a while to stop them completely seizing. One of mine seized, so after my LBS rescued it, I replaced the pins with hex-head pins instead.

Good advice about the pin, hate spending ages fiddling with stuff like that.

I take it the pads are resin from the factory so best to stick with them?

My bike had metal pads originally, so I replaced like with like.

The part number will be printed on the pads, so if you take them out, you can figure out which ones to get e.g. L02A is resin and L04C is metal if you have the 805 brakes.

The reason you don’t want to use different pads is due to material transfer onto the rotor. That would cause poor braking performance unless you gave your rotor a good sandpapering.

Can I just undo the pin, take them out & put them back without faffing around taking the wheel off & potentially realigning the calipers etc?

If not I’ll wait for them to wear down a bit & buy some when they need replacing. The bike is brand new & hardly ridden so was just thinking ahead.

It should only take a few seconds to remove the retaining pin and then both the pads should just lift out and can go back in again easily enough. Removing the wheel might be needed for putting in new pads as they’ll be thicker than the worn pads, so you may need to carefully push the brake pistons in slightly to make enough room for them.

Cheers, sounds easy enough in theory………

Might just take them out to see what’s in there so I can make sure I get the same when they start wearing out.

That’ll prevent your retaining pin getting stuck as well. The type of pin that has the issues is the one that screws in and has a useless flat-head screwdriver head so you can’t use any force on it without ruining it.

Make a note of the pad part number as it can be confusing getting the right replacement, or at least I managed to order the wrong pads and didn’t realise until I came to fit them.

 

Turns out you were spot on with this

Tried to get the screw out & now it’s completely knackered & won’t come out. You simply can’t put any force onto it without it disintegrating apparently.

Not vital as the pads shouldn’t need changing as yet but pretty clueless how I can get it out.

Looks like LBS will have to change the pads when they need it.

[hawkinspeter]

ibr17xvii wrote:

ibr17xvii wrote:

Yay or nay to cleaning pads & rotors and if so what with?

Plan on riding through winter in variable weathers so think stuff will obviously get grimey but not ridiculously so as in if I were riding off road.

Read some stuff that says you’re best just leaving it alone as the residue from the pads deposited on the rotors aid braking & if you clean it off you have to bed them in again but read other stuff that says a wipe or squirt with Isopropyl Alcohol on the calipers/pads/rotors isn’t gonna do any harm.

What does everyone else do?

I don’t bother cleaning them, though they probably get splashed with car shampoo when I’m cleaning the rest of my bike.

[ibr17xvii]

matthewn5 wrote:

With all due respect, this all sounds a bit of a faff? Was thinking of a disc bike as commuter, but interested in thoughts as to whether discs are too hard to live with in daily use. I ride to work all year.

Only used them for a month but I wouldn’t say so. 

I think it just looks worse on this thread cos I’ve asked loads of questions!

[ibr17xvii]

dreamlx10 wrote:

A long thread that tells you not to get a disc brake equipped bike

Not really. It tells you that I don’t know anything about discs & people are willing to help. 

[Author]

Replies