[ibr17xvii]

Got one of these on my Cannondale CAAD 12 & haven’t touched it since I got the bike so figure it’s about time it I regreased the headset. However I’ve no experience at all of the integrated headset setup.

Is it just a case of loosening the top cap with a 6mm allen key, unscrewing the bolt inside with a 5mm key, removing the expander “bung” & then taking off the bars? Everything the same as a “normal” headset after that in terms of dropping the forks out, bearings etc?

The other thing I noticed when I was looking at the Cannondale manual online is that it states clearly that there should be no spacers above the stem but mine came with 2 above it!

Topic

[ibr17xvii]

StraelGuy wrote:

I suspect he might mean the bit that looks like a split thin-walled tube with a rim aroung the top. It slides down the steerer to centre it in the headset.

Ah right, never heard it called that before!

Guess I just need to have a stab & get my LBS on standby if I stuff it up!

[StraelGuy]

I suspect he might mean the

I suspect he might mean the bit that looks like a split thin-walled tube with a rim aroung the top. It slides down the steerer to centre it in the headset.

[ibr17xvii]

Nixster wrote:

A couple of tips from my experience:

The top bearing virtually lasts forever, the lower bearing not so much.  They can be bought separately, fortunately.  Not worth trying to refurb a gritty lower bearing IME.

When getting everything back together it is easy for the collet to get stuck on the steerer before getting enough pre-load into the bearings to take out play in the headset.  Grease the inside of the upper heaset bearing race and seat the collet well by hand before trying to compress the headset with the expander bung.  I also am using carbon paste rather than grease on the frame seat for the lower bearing to  stop it moving in the seat and clicking but you might find grease works for you.

No idea why Cannondale don’t like spacers above the stem.  Within reason the bung can be adjusted to ensure the stem bolt area is supported within the steerer, certainly I can do that with 10mm above the stem.

Cheers for that, excuse my ignorance but what’s the collet?

As I’ve never done it on a Cannondale headset before I figure the best way is to take it pieces little by little & then hopefully remember where everything went or failing that take pictures!

I have 10mm above the stem as well, that’s how the bike was delivered to me.

[Nixster]

A couple of tips from my

A couple of tips from my experience:

The top bearing virtually lasts forever, the lower bearing not so much.  They can be bought separately, fortunately.  Not worth trying to refurb a gritty lower bearing IME.

When getting everything back together it is easy for the collet to get stuck on the steerer before getting enough pre-load into the bearings to take out play in the headset.  Grease the inside of the upper heaset bearing race and seat the collet well by hand before trying to compress the headset with the expander bung.  I also am using carbon paste rather than grease on the frame seat for the lower bearing to  stop it moving in the seat and clicking but you might find grease works for you.

No idea why Cannondale don’t like spacers above the stem.  Within reason the bung can be adjusted to ensure the stem bolt area is supported within the steerer, certainly I can do that with 10mm above the stem.

[ibr17xvii]

pablo wrote:

pablo wrote:

Think the caad12 is a carbon steerer so please use a torque wrench. On my evo the torque was 5-6Nm from memory although I had to use assembly compound and +1Nm of torque to stop it slipping.

You may well be tight, not sure TBH. 

Not touched the headset since I bought the bike. 

[pablo]

Think the caad12 is a carbon
Think the caad12 is a carbon steerer so please use a torque wrench. On my evo the torque was 5-6Nm from memory although I had to use assembly compound and +1Nm of torque to stop it slipping.

[ibr17xvii]

Cheers for that. 

Cheers for that. 

Never worked on a bike with an integrated headset before so wasn’t sure if it was any different. 

Still cant work out the spacer situation though. Guess it’s something to do with making sure the compression “bung” has enough space to expand. 

Bit strange that Cannondale ship bikes like this against their own advice. 

[CXR94Di2]

Slacken stem bolts (2
Slacken stem bolts (2 horizontal bolts). Take off top cap bolts. Pull apart, clean and re- grease nearingating surfaces. If bearings are rough to rotate, replace and grease up before fitting. Reassemble reverse of dismantle

[Author]

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