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11 comments
Tufo tubs are essentially this (tubeless tubs) - they have a butyl lining to the inner surface of the tub instead of a tube. They are however IMHO stiff and heavy compared to other tubulars. You use Tufo Extreme sealant to repair punctures, indeed this is the only way to repair them. I only have one and it was on for less than 30 minutes before it punctured so I am not convinced it's worth repairing!
I've had mixed results trying to repair tubs with sealant. Vittoria Pit Stop didn't get me out of trouble when I needed it on the road up to Caerphilly and the Bontrager sealant I added to some Conti tubs seemed to have dried up before it was actually called on. They guy I sent my tubs to for repair didn't complain about it though.
I find in clinchers that latex tubes are much more puncture resistant than butyl so I'm going to try some latex tubed Vittoria Corsa G+ tubs next but nuzzle me they are not cheap.
Comparing to a tubeless system, apart from slight weight saving, irrelevant to most of amateur cyclists, this hybrid system would only have disadvantages; higher rolling resistance and inability to fit an inner tube quickly in cases when sealant can't seal larger holes.
If tubless out perform clinchers in terms of rolling resistence due to a lack of friction from having no inner tube, then wouldn't a tubless tubular outperform a traditional tubular for the same reason?
I take your point that a tubless system will always be superior over clinchers and tubularss as you can fix it on the side of the road, but a tubless tubluar tyre system might be robust enough for more people to go tubular (tubless). Surely there would be a market for that. Tubless wheels supposidly benefit of being more lightweight, easier to constructs and robust under heavy breaking than those of carbon clinchers.
I vaguely remember back in the old eastern bloc days when tyres were currency for their riders when they came to the West, among the Barums etc there was a Soviet tubeless tubular. Can't remember the name, but it was a big, thick and not particuarly fast tyre. Puncture once and throw away...
I use tubulars and never realised that they were inconvenient until I actually started reading forums. The initial mounting is certainly a bit of a project but once fitted they have always been very uneventful as far as I have experienced.
Punctures are simply fixed. Remove the valve core, add some sealant, refit the core and pump up. Far easier than wrestling a recalcitrant clincher from a rim on a cold morning.
I'm not sure how removing the tube from a tubular would be an advantage as the tyre needs some airproof layer somewhere in it's construction.
If you use Carogna tape then fitting a tub isn't even a project, in fact its a piece of pi$$. Tubs are, however, typically considerably more expensive than a clincher. And some of us are reluctant to use sealant on our tubs (including because we were told not to in no uncertain terms by Pete Burgin, RIP, who was very clear that doing so would ruin the inner tube).
Kind of, Tufo do a tubular clincher which is a tubular with a kind of foot on the bottom that allows you to mount on on a clincher rim (with the usual hooked bead). See http://www.tufo.com/en/tubular-clincher/. Tufo maintain they ride like tubs. However, they suffer in comparison to a tubeless tyre inasmuch as you can't just whack a tube in there when you get a flat; so like a tub you woudl have to carry a spare tyre. And they aren't cheap, I gather. And your rims still have a hooked bead so heavier than a tubular wheel and don't get same roundness off rim as with a proper tub (more light bulb profile).
Does sealant work alright with inner tubes then? In my head i imagine the butyl inner tube to be too supple or balloon like to work with sealant. That said, i have no experience using it.
Yes, i use Stan's sealant. Buy a 5mil syringe from a chemist, about £1. Inject 30-50 mil of sealant through the valve stem after removing valve. I suggest you position wheel so valve is about 4 o clock because the sealant tends to burp back out whilst filling. Replace valve reinflate and have a little reassurance that punctures are much less likely to interrupt your ride in future.
Difficult to repair if they ever did go wrong. At least with a tubular you can unpick the stitching. (Though i don't think it's a particularly easy job).
I run tubs and I find I do puncture less than with clinchers. I have run some with sealant too, after fixing a puncture on the roadside with it. It then kept running fine till the tread wore out .
I thought Schwalbe had done this a while ago, but nothing ever came of it.
I personally see this as an interesting option, and one I'd be all over like a rash.