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2 comments
Thank you for your helpful reply Mike.
I am servicing my bike more out of saving money but it is good fun.
I took apart the hub again and the drive side cup and cone both had signs of wear. Unfortunately, my race wheel punctured so I had to ride the dodgy back wheel the 3 miles to the hospital so that may have wrecked it. I'll be purchasing one of Decathlon's cheap rear wheels to replace it to avoid using my race wheels. I will also take the wheel to my LBS for them to have a look and tell me what the damage is.
Maybe one day I'll get around to replacing the hub myself and rebuilding the wheel.
Cheers for your help.
Hi Ollie,
Glad you're doing your own servicing, it's a dying art.
My first move would be to lift the rear of the bike off the ground with one hand and with the other spin the wheel forwards. It should rotate freely, without any graunching noises or vibrations. If it won't spin for a reasonable time or is noisy the bearing should be looked at again. Maybe it's overtightened? (Sometimes you get the bearing just right and tighten the locknuts, but when you fit the quick-release it alters the setting)
If all that seems OK try lifting the wheel again and attempting to move the wheel rim sideways. If there's any free play above a tiny, tiny amount, it needs adjusting. Likewise at this point any strange noises need investigating and it's possible the cup/cone are damaged. For replacement cones try SJS Cycles, they hold every Shimano bearing ever made, plus a few extra.
If the cup is deeply scored I usually accept this as a sign from the gods and bin the wheel. Good new wheels are cheaper than they have ever been.
And, just to complicate matters, you could be blessed with a noisy freehub rather than dodgy bearings. Sometimes a pawl or two will stick or, more worrying, one will break off and rattle around inside. Some can be stripped and inspected, cheaper ones can't.
Best of luck sir.