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BUYER'S GUIDE

Explore and more - 4 reasons why your next bike should be a touring bike

Hit the road on the most versatile bike type around

They’re a category that hasn’t had much love in the last few years, but touring bikes might be the most versatile machines around. Here’s why your next bike should be a touring bike.

  • Designed for carrying significant amounts of stuff for long distances, touring bikes are the pack mules of cycling

  • Robust frames and wheels, and steady handling make touring bikes ideal commuting bikes too

  • Touring bikes always have clearance for mudguards and they're often included in the package, along with one or more racks to carry your stuff

  • Like low gears? You're more likely to find them on a touring bike than just about any other category because they're essential fr climbing with loads

  • Their combination of tyre clearance and braking power made cantilever brakes standard on touring bikes for decades, but disc brakes are taking over

Imagine taking off into the hills for days at a time — or longer — on the same bike that carries you comfortably for a Sunday ride in the hills, and gets you to work every day. That’s the appeal of touring bikes. Aside from situations that require pure speed, a touring bike will do almost everything you can imagine wanting to do on a bike.

Four things touring bikes are great for

Touring

Well, yes, that’s obvious, the clue’s in the name. Nevertheless, it bears saying that if you want to ride day after day carrying your gear and maybe even camping overnight, a touring bike is the traditional and arguably best bike for the job.

‘Arguably’ because the light-and-fast bikepacking approach eschews racks and panniers, instead strapping specially-made bags directly to the frame, handlebar and saddle. If you’re going down that route, then you probably want something lighter and faster, and you probably already know that.

For traditional touring, with a decent number of home comforts along for the ride like a change of clothes for the evening pub visit or a tent and other camping gear, a classic touring bike is the way to go.

A touring bike’s handling is designed to work with a load. You can bodge a rack and panniers on to a race bike, but you’ll almost certainly badly degrade the handling because the panniers will hang so far behind the rear wheel axle that they’ll make the frame wag under load. A touring bike’s long back end reduces this.

Commuting

Bike commuting (CC BY-NC-SA 2.0 Dave Atkinson:Flickr) 01

You can commute on more or less anything, but the things that make touring bikes stand out are that they come with mudguards and a rack, or at least the necessary mounts.

It rains at commuting times less often than you’d expect, but you can still get unpleasantly damp from wet roads even if it’s not actually raining. Mudguards help keep most of the water off you and can make the difference between a comfortable ride and getting sodden.

The best way to carry your stuff when commuting is a controversial subject, but if you don’t like a sweaty back, then panniers are the way to go. Not only will a touring bike likely come with a rack, but the chainstays will be long enough your heels won’t hit your panniers and they won’t make the whole bike waggle as badly if you give it some welly.

Shopping

Shopping (CC BY-SA 2.0 Richard Masoner).jpg

Shopping (CC BY-SA 2.0 Richard Masoner)

Want to carry a few days’ groceries home from Tesco? That’s going to be really uncomfortable in a rucksack. A cargo bike to carry it all may be cool, but it’s not going to fit in a tiny city flat. But a couple of large panniers will swallow a week’s groceries for one and a few days’ worth for a family. You might have to abandon the weekly mega-shop, but that opens up the chance to buy and eat more fresh fruit and veg. Win!

Day riding

A touring bike has a number of advantages over a race-style bike for a day’s pootling in the countryside, even though it’ll be slightly slower on the flat and up hills.

For starters there’s actually being able to sit up and enjoy that scenery you’re riding through, rather than Frooming along looking at your stem. Then there’s the comfort that comes from fatter tyres at lower pressure than a race bike’s, and the handy feature that a touring bike’s mudguards mean you won’t get utterly drenched and miserable if you get caught in a shower.

Throw on a pannier and you can carry stuff, which opens up the possibility of a picnic in a secluded spot instead of paying tourist-trap cafe prices for lunch.

Read more: 10 of the best touring bikes — your options for taking off into the beyond

What’s a touring bike?

So what are the details that give a touring bike its characteristics and versatility? Let’s take a look.

Load-carrying ability

Fully loaded touring bike (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Michael Rosenstein:Flickr).jpg

Fully loaded touring bike (CC BY-NC-ND 2.0 Michael Rosenstein:Flickr)

Many features of touring bikes serve the objective of being able to carry lots of stuff without too much fuss. That means you should expect to find at least a rear rack as standard on any touring bike, and preferably a front rack too.

The best place for a front rack is next to the wheel hub. Low rider racks have the least effect on the bike’s handling and spreading your luggage between the front and rear of the bike stops the front wheel from going light on climbs.

>>Read more: Your guide to racks and panniers — all your bike luggage possibilities from low riders to convertible backpacks

Riding position

Sabbath Silk Route - riding 4

Touring bikes usually put you in a more upright position than most road bikes, as touring is more about looking round, enjoying the scenery and smelling the flowers than covering ground at great speed. That’s great for town riding too. Being able to sit up but still have your hands near the brakes means you can see that driver doing something stupid and react in time to save your bacon.

Because you’re sitting more upright on a touring bike, you might find you need a wider saddle because you’ll have more weight on your bum. That’s one reason why Brooks leather saddles are popular with tourists: they’re wide, as well as being top quality.

Frame design

Roux Etape 250 - full bike from rear.JPG

Touring frames can be made of any material, though carbon fibre is rare and steel is still prominent as a result of tradition and its ‘springy’ ride. Titanium is revered among well-heeled touring riders for its ride and durability. Inexpensive touring bikes tend to have aluminium frames, which have the rigidity that’s useful for load-carrying.

Whatever the material, the frame tubes will tend to be beefier than those on a racier bike, because durability and stiffness are more important than weight.

In terms of geometry, a touring bike frame has a shorter top tube for a more upright position, shallower head angle for steady handling and longer chainstays. That last detail moves the pannier rack away from the rider’s heels so there’s clearance for panniers without dangling them out the back of the bike where they can make the whole bike wag.

Touring bikes have plenty of attachment points for accessories. Mudguard and rack fittings are mandatory and you’ll often find extra water bottle bosses under the down tube where they can be used for an extra bottle or more load capacity.

Tyres

Cannondale Touring - fork cable route
Wide tyres for comfort and traction on poor road surfaces

The need for both load-carrying ability and a comfortable ride means touring bikes tyres are wide. The minimum you’ll usually find is 32mm, but the new generation of adventure touring bikes often goes as fat as 45mm for dirt-road capability.

The need for grip on poor-quality, loose road surfaces means you’ll usually find a relatively deep tread pattern on touring bike tyres. Puncture resistant belts in tyres are common too; manhandling a fully-loaded bike to fix a flat is a bit of a pain.

Brakes

Cannondale Touring - rear disc brake
Disc brakes provide reliable, powerful braking on modern touring bikes

You’ll almost always find either cantilever brakes or discs on a touring bike. Side-pull brakes are rare because they don’t have the necessary reach to provide space for fat tyres and mudguards.

Disc brakes are becoming more and more common as the options available to manufacturers expand. They’re particularly suitable for touring bikes because they separate braking from the rims, improving stopping power and rim durability.

Wheels

Forget weight; touring bike wheels need to be strong. High spoke counts are common (36 per wheel is traditional), as are wide rims. Many keen touring riders end up buying handbuilt wheels because off-the-peg options are limited or simply not up to the job.

The trend to wider rims of the last couple of years has improved the options for touring riders too, making wheels inherently stronger and stiffer.

Gears

Touring bike gears.jpg
Touring gears: a combination of mountain bike rear derailleur and hybrid chainset for a very wide gear range

Carrying loads up hills requires low, low gears. It’s common to find a low gear below 1:1 on a touring bike, and tourers are almost the last drop-bar bikes that still commonly use triple chainsets.

Touring bikes often borrow components from mountain bikes and hybrids to provide the gear range needed for a touring bike. You’ll find chainsets with 48/38/28 chainrings and cassettes as wide as 11-36.

Gearing is another area where touring riders love to tinker. Many chainsets will take inner rings as low as 24 or even 22 teeth. Some tourists don’t see the need for high gears, so go for a 44-tooth big ring or even a ‘super-compact’ double such as 42/24.

>>Read more: Beginner's guide to cycling luggage

Explore the complete archive of reviews of touring bikes on road.cc

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John has been writing about bikes and cycling for over 30 years since discovering that people were mug enough to pay him for it rather than expecting him to do an honest day's work.

He was heavily involved in the mountain bike boom of the late 1980s as a racer, team manager and race promoter, and that led to writing for Mountain Biking UK magazine shortly after its inception. He got the gig by phoning up the editor and telling him the magazine was rubbish and he could do better. Rather than telling him to get lost, MBUK editor Tym Manley called John’s bluff and the rest is history.

Since then he has worked on MTB Pro magazine and was editor of Maximum Mountain Bike and Australian Mountain Bike magazines, before switching to the web in 2000 to work for CyclingNews.com. Along with road.cc founder Tony Farrelly, John was on the launch team for BikeRadar.com and subsequently became editor in chief of Future Publishing’s group of cycling magazines and websites, including Cycling Plus, MBUK, What Mountain Bike and Procycling.

John has also written for Cyclist magazine, edited the BikeMagic website and was founding editor of TotalWomensCycling.com before handing over to someone far more representative of the site's main audience.

He joined road.cc in 2013. He lives in Cambridge where the lack of hills is more than made up for by the headwinds.

Add new comment

47 comments

Avatar
Cargobike | 4 years ago
1 like

Any bike can be used for touring if you prepare properly.

I did LEJOG followed by the North Coast 500 on a Larry vs Harry cargobike a few years ago.

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zyghom | 4 years ago
1 like

To some extent touring bike can replace the winter rides as well.

If someone is not total freak of road biking for sport purposes, using touring bike whe the will come to ride even on wet roads (provided you have the guards) can be an option

For long time my touring bike was my only bike - only recently I applied n+1 formula and bought road bike

And I am completely happy with both bikes and both have purpose

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Legs_Eleven_Wor... | 5 years ago
0 likes

I like the idea, but for example, who in Britain actually goes shopping using their bike as a means of transporting their purchases?    You're either going to get threatened and/or assaulted by a driver on your way there or back, or else your bike is going to get stolen outside the shops.  

Shithole Britain.

Avatar
janusz0 replied to Legs_Eleven_Worcester | 5 years ago
5 likes
Legs_Eleven_Worcester wrote:

I like the idea, but for example, who in Britain actually goes shopping using their bike as a means of transporting their purchases?    You're either going to get threatened and/or assaulted by a driver on your way there or back, or else your bike is going to get stolen outside the shops.  

Shithole Britain.

Britain is far from a shithole, although it's not the harmonious and equitable society that I'd like.  There are thieves, but a chain through both frame, wheels and substantial street furniture will divert them to an easier target, like an unlocked car.

I see others like me, with cycles and panniers or trailers shopping at local markets and shops.  About 10 years ago, the local Waitrose loaned out trailers and I see that the nearet Homebase has a cargo trike that you can borrow.  (What happened Waitrose?)

I shop with panniers and I suspect that there'll be a few others here that agree that bicycle shopping is the way to go.  For big volume shops, like a year's supply of bog rolls, or heavy, like a sack of cement, I'll hitch up the trailer*. 

In an ideal world, my N+1 may be a (pedelec?) long john.

*My Burley cargo trailer came with a mount that clamps into most rear triangles, although I prefer the mount that clamps on the end of the rear axle.  (It's been in use for nearly 24 years.)

Cars can be useful for transporting bicycles long distances.

Avatar
DanaColby85 replied to Legs_Eleven_Worcester | 5 years ago
3 likes
Legs_Eleven_Worcester wrote:

I like the idea, but for example, who in Britain actually goes shopping using their bike as a means of transporting their purchases?    You're either going to get threatened and/or assaulted by a driver on your way there or back, or else your bike is going to get stolen outside the shops.  

Shithole Britain.

I live in York and do all my supermarket shopping by bike (my second-string tourer, an old Ridgeback), as do many others. It's fairly easy to get from my house by car-free cycleways virtually all the way to the large retail parks at Clifton Moor or Foss Islands. Two panniers easily take a week's shopping; one-off large purchases such as microwave ovens or barbecues go on my bike trailer. I'm far from the only person who does this. I find shopping by bike pleasant, convenient, easy and cheap. I've never had any safety or security problems in a dozen years here and frankly don't recognise your tag of 'shithole Britain', having toured extensively in perhaps forty or so countries round the world. Does that answer your question?

Avatar
Judge dreadful replied to Legs_Eleven_Worcester | 4 years ago
3 likes
Legs_Eleven_Worcester wrote:

I like the idea, but for example, who in Britain actually goes shopping using their bike as a means of transporting their purchases?  

 

I do, frequently. Taking the bike beats the queues for parking, the cost of parking, beats traffic jams, and costs nothing.

Legs_Eleven_Worcester wrote:

 You're either going to get threatened and/or assaulted by a driver on your way there or back, or else your bike is going to get stolen outside the shops.  

Shithole Britain.

I take a touring bike or Hybrid, stay away from roads as much as possible, and use a decent lock, job jobbed.

Avatar
a1white replied to Legs_Eleven_Worcester | 2 years ago
2 likes

Erm, I live in London and I use my Bike for this every week. Croix de fer (or humble hybrid) with Ortlieb panners bags on either side. So easy.

Avatar
NickJP | 5 years ago
2 likes

My favoured way of carrying the majority of a touring load is on a front lowrider rack, both when I'm touring on my own bike and when we're touring on the tandem. I find it has the least effect on the steering of the bike. As an example, here's our setup when touring Tasmania in the 1980s - this was our complete luggage for a three week lap of the island:

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Dingaling | 5 years ago
0 likes

Thanks for the info.

janusZ0

Yes Rohloff does the job. I had a Rohloff in 2003 on a MTB and got fed up with the noise it made. Also, while in Italy in the mountains, the screws on the left side worked loose and,when I spotted the problem, the transmission oil was all over my back wheel, on the disc brake pads and half the screws had gone. I put the brake pads on a hot plate and boiled the oil off and managed to get the right size machine screws from a metal workshop but never really trusted it after that.

CXR94Di2

I guess the XTR Di2 is for flat bar and not drop bar or have I missed something? It finally dawned on me that my hands are more comfortable on my road bike drop bars than my tourer's wider flat bar. I have managed with both of course but I would go for the drop bars if I can operate a triple.

BehindTheBikesheds

The TA Carmina looks like a nice flexible solution. Certainly worth looking further. At the moment I have only found a Campag ISIS axle but it is 111mm and TA calls for 116mm.

I like the look of Middleburn because it uses Hollowtech II  but it seems unclear whether it is made for an 11sp. chain.

Once again, thanks for the input. I will keep working on it.

Avatar
CXR94Di2 replied to Dingaling | 5 years ago
0 likes
Dingaling wrote:

Thanks for the info.

janusZ0

Yes Rohloff does the job. I had a Rohloff in 2003 on a MTB and got fed up with the noise it made. Also, while in Italy in the mountains, the screws on the left side worked loose and,when I spotted the problem, the transmission oil was all over my back wheel, on the disc brake pads and half the screws had gone. I put the brake pads on a hot plate and boiled the oil off and managed to get the right size machine screws from a metal workshop but never really trusted it after that.

CXR94Di2

I guess guess the XTR Di2 is for flat bar and not drop bar or have I missed something? It finally dawned on me that my hands are more comfortable on my road bike drop bars than my tourer's wider flat bar. I have managed with both of course but I would go for the drop bars if I can operate a triple.

BehindTheBikesheds

The TA Carmina looks like a nice flexible solution. Certainly worth looking further. At the moment I have only found a Campag ISIS axle but it is 111mm and TA calls for 116mm.

I like the look of Middleburn because it uses Hollowtech II  but it seems unclear whether it is made for an 11sp. chain.

Once again, thanks for the input. I will keep working on it.

No, Shimano Di2  road shifters are compatible with both Mtb and road derailleurs.   The only combination you cannot have is, one road and one mtb derailleur.  Both must be mtb.   

 

Avatar
hawkinspeter replied to CXR94Di2 | 5 years ago
0 likes
CXR94Di2 wrote:

No, Shimano Di2  road shifters are compatible with both Mtb and road derailleurs.   The only combination you cannot have is, one road and one mtb derailleur.  Both must be mtb.   

Also, the mtb gear display and ANT+/Bluetooth unit (SC-MT800) is compatible with road components.

Avatar
CXR94Di2 replied to hawkinspeter | 5 years ago
0 likes
hawkinspeter wrote:
CXR94Di2 wrote:

No, Shimano Di2  road shifters are compatible with both Mtb and road derailleurs.   The only combination you cannot have is, one road and one mtb derailleur.  Both must be mtb.   

Also, the mtb gear display and ANT+/Bluetooth unit (SC-MT800) is compatible with road components.

 

True, I have the SC- MT800 on my Tripster

Avatar
alan sherman | 5 years ago
0 likes

Would love to see some pictures of that Tripster / Di2 triple setup.

 

For a general use bike I like the idea of a 10 speed triple setup.

Avatar
CXR94Di2 replied to alan sherman | 5 years ago
0 likes
alan sherman wrote:

Would love to see some pictures of that Tripster / Di2 triple setup.

 

For a general use bike I like the idea of a 10 speed triple setup.

 

Here you go

Avatar
CXR94Di2 | 5 years ago
0 likes

I'm into a few years of ownership now of my Kinesis Tripster V2.  I have upgraded my original crankset from 2 rings mtb 44/28 to a triple crank now 48/36/26 with the XTR Di2 front derailleur.  I also changed my calipers from Shimano to Hope RX4 4 pots.  They have a much better feel/modulation and dont squeak at all.  My annual winter trip to Tenerife where the bike was perfect, the gearing allowing me to maintain a high cadence on the multi hour climbs.  I'll be adding mudguards for my tour of UK in spring time riding my other wheels with 40mm G Ones.

Avatar
janusz0 | 5 years ago
1 like

There's a lot to be said for a single chainring and a Rohloff. That's what I have on my bad road/no road tourer. However, like you I have a triple on my fast tourer. I think the options for triples that go down as low as 24 teeth are either the cheerful offerings from Spa Cycles or exquisite and expensive low volume chainsets from small USA workshops. (I haven't web searched for them in a while). Alternatively secondhand chainsets can be refurbished with new bearings and TA chainrings. I think I have a Campag MTB triple somewhere in storage - but not for sale.

Avatar
Dingaling | 5 years ago
1 like

I have just posted a lengthy comment and it just vanished. I will try again with a shorter version.

My current tourer is a very good bike, now 12 years and 34000km old. It has Shimano XTR kit with 44/34/22 chainrings and an 11-32 cassette. It gives a range of gears for speed and long climbs with 20+kg of luggage over passes at 10-12000ft.

I fancy something new and this time with drop bars and disc brakes. My problem is what to get for the drivetrain. I like to get the high quality for reliability, durability and ease of maintenance but I haven't been able to find a triple set in my searches among Shimano, SRAM, FSA, Campag. Anybody know something/a brand I'm not aware of?

 

Avatar
BehindTheBikesheds replied to Dingaling | 5 years ago
0 likes
Dingaling wrote:

I have just posted a lengthy comment and it just vanished. I will try again with a shorter version.

My current tourer is a very good bike, now 12 years and 34000km old. It has Shimano XTR kit with 44/34/22 chainrings and an 11-32 cassette. It gives a range of gears for speed and long climbs with 20+kg of luggage over passes at 10-12000ft.

I fancy something new and this time with drop bars and disc brakes. My problem is what to get for the drivetrain. I like to get the high quality for reliability, durability and ease of maintenance but I haven't been able to find a triple set in my searches among Shimano, SRAM, FSA, Campag. Anybody know something/a brand I'm not aware of?

 

TA Carmina, not cheap but superb quality, the newer versions have detachable spiders so can go down to a 20T inner. Additionally Middleburn, the older models had a std 5 arm 94/58mm BCD to give you the 20T option but finding new old stock isn't easy, the xtype is also available https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/chainsets/black-cranksblack-spider-middlebur...

 

Avatar
a1white | 5 years ago
1 like

My Croix-de-fer works great as a tourer, just stick some mud-guards and panniers on it and away you go. Very stable loaded up. A very versatile bike.

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nbrus | 5 years ago
0 likes

If you want to occassionally venture offroad onto easier mountain bike type trails, then a hybrid with front suspension is more versatile. Touring biles are better for roads and paths.

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Gus T | 5 years ago
0 likes

I'm riding a Genesis Tour de Fer that I built myself with extra wide flat (MTB) bars and is ideal for touring, I would have bought one prebuilt, https://www.genesisbikes.co.uk/bikes/adventure/adventure/tour-de-fer/tou..., but I prefer flat bars for touring and didn't want the extra cost of changing from drops to flat bars. I also agree that the front panniers make the bike more stable when riding due to better overall balance

 

Avatar
dottigirl | 6 years ago
2 likes

The biggest problem I found with a hybrid is that the bars were just too wide to cut through traffic. Plus, weirdly, I found I was getting more close passes. Well, the passes were closer to the bars. I started feeling more vulnerable.

As a sidenote, I have a couple of Kinesis Racelight T2s. I built one up as my 'best bike' with Ultegra, wide rims and 4000s 28c tyres. So far, I've used it for a 10.6mi time trial and a 312km audax, just adapting the positon by moving the spacers above or below the stem. Probably not a long term solution to keep doing that, but I do have two T2s...

Avatar
cyclisto | 6 years ago
1 like

@LBS

Well disk brakes and fancier 9speed groupsets are always welcome but also more expensive too. The reason why don't many people like drop bar bikes, is that most such bike have shortish headtubes resulting in low riding position. But drop bars are the right solution for towns, you can have 30% reduced width and much more comfortable hands. When I rode a straight bar hybrid, I needed gloves for my hands, now that I have switched to drop bars I don't need them even when touring!

Should bike manufacturers specced drop bike with tall headtubes from hybrid bikes and even make cuts like the 8speed drivetrains and V-brakes instead of disk brakes and the price was around 400 quid, it would be a cheap and yet very effective tool for the masses to move in towns. And while there are myriads of such options in straight bars, exactly the same (cheap) spec in drop bars is virtually non existent.

Avatar
CXR94Di2 | 6 years ago
1 like

Im just into 6 months since I built my Tripster V2.  Ive ridden up Mt Teide with it, done 100 mile sportives and use it on club runs every weekend.  Its kitted out with MTB gearset, 40/28 crank and either 11-32/40 depending if I'm riding up mountains.  It will be my bike for Ventoux this autumn.

I hardly ride my two other bikes now, but they have their uses so will keep them.

Avatar
Yorky-M | 7 years ago
4 likes

I bought a Specialized diverge  comp. at the start of the year and cant recommend it enough.

Put a 0 layback seatpost and longer stem so as I can interchange with my road bike with very little position change.

Lessons a road racer of thirty years learnt when heading touring.

1,Hydraulic discs are magic.

2,  34 inner ring is a joy.

3, If you go touring, bring half what you think you need, then half of that.

4, 28mm tyres are the future.

5,  3 carbon road bikes in the garage, the diverge gets most use.

 

Avatar
RMurphy195 | 7 years ago
1 like

The biggest issue with touring bikes is buying one - or at least, being able to see and try examples before you buy.

I use mine all the time for all sorts of things - day rides, popping to the library, just tooling around,on roads, towpaths, cycle trails, the south down way - you name it, it'll go there. Well, almost anywhere! My current machine has disc brakes, so hopefully I won't have bulging rim syndrome again!

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Dantenspeed | 8 years ago
0 likes

Going to get some in for review then? How about this beast from Trek:

www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/road-bikes/adventure-touring-bikes/920/920-disc/p/1432999-2016

Avatar
tritecommentbot replied to Dantenspeed | 8 years ago
0 likes
Dantenspeed wrote:

Going to get some in for review then? How about this beast from Trek:

www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/road-bikes/adventure-touring-bikes/920/920-disc/p/1432999-2016

 

Love that Trek. Trek is one of my least favourite bike brands, but that bike is smashing. Either the Trek or a Cinelli HoBootleg. Happy with either!

 

http://www.wheelies.co.uk/p75880/Cinelli-HoBootleg-2016-Touring-Bike.asp...

Avatar
harrybav replied to tritecommentbot | 7 years ago
0 likes
unconstituted wrote:
Dantenspeed wrote:

Going to get some in for review then? How about this beast from Trek:

www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/bikes/road-bikes/adventure-touring-bikes/920/920-disc/p/1432999-2016

or a Cinelli HoBootleg.

Ha, yes, I agree with you two! I saw the 920 on the road the other week. Magnificent, and a lovely straight-lines front rack. The Cinneli hits some of the same buttons and has those really stylish cable outers. I need a bigger wallet / garage! They should make the Specialized Awol in some sort of muddy green shade too, I reckon.

 

Avatar
GeordieByker | 8 years ago
4 likes

I have a trek 7.4 tourer, and my wife a Claud Buttler Explorer 400, we are just about to set off on our second 3 week cycle camping trip to Europe for her 60th birthday. Best holiday experience ever.

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