Why bother cleaning your chain? Easy; even if you don’t buy the argument that it saves money – and, depending on how you cost the time put into extending the service life of a chain by, perhaps, 10 per cent, it may not – riding with a filthy chain is asking for a ‘fourth cat tattoo’ down the right calf. Perhaps more importantly, a correctly cleaned and lubed chain that is still within its wear limit runs almost as smoothly and efficiently as new. And it looks nice.
When cleaning a chain, the primary aim is to remove the abrasive grit that finds its way inside the bushings. This stuff has an astonishing capacity to find its way into the smallest spaces, as can be seen when removing a spoke nipple from a used wheel. The thread will be found to be caked in fine silt, which is a good thing in this case as it helps seize the nipple to the spoke. It’s not a good thing to have between the moving surfaces of a bike chain.
Complicating matters, the grit is kept in place inside the chain’s inner workings by the residue of whatever lube was used last time it was lubed. A ‘wet’ lube of the sort preferred by most road cyclists readily picks up and hold on to grit particles, with which it then combines to create an effective abrasive paste.
Most such lubes won’t mix with water and resist being washed out by it. The quick and easy way to address the problem is to dissolve the lube/grit paste using a water-soluble de-greaser and then use water to flush the resulting solution out of the chain’s links.
Before going any further, check for chain wear; if worn close to its limit, the chain may not be worth cleaning before it is due to be binned.

Apply the de-greaser – a good example is Morgan Blue Chain Cleaner – to the chain and work it in by using a brush to agitate the rollers. Go around the inside and outside to ensure complete penetration. At the same time, use the brush and degreaser to soften dirt on the cassette sprockets and rear mech jockey wheels.


Next, rinse the chain. If one is available, use a hand-pumped pressure washer to flush out the degreaser with clean water while rotating the crank.

An alternative is to load a sponge with car wash shampoo (diluted, obvs) and wrap it around the chain, squeezing while running the chain through it. Follow this with clean water. Use similar procedures to rinse dirt off the sprockets and jockey wheels.
Now apply a water-dispersing product such as WD40 to the chain; this will disperse the water now inside the chain bushings. Wipe the chain dry of dispersant and apply your favourite lubricant before heading off for a well-deserved – and highly efficient – ride.
How often should this be done? As often as ‘necessary’…









54 thoughts on “Clean but not Squeaky”
Good advice
Good advice
Where did you get the dummy
Where did you get the dummy hub?
Colin Peyresourde wrote:Where
It’s a Morgan Blue chain guide. Perfect for when cleaning your bike.
Colin Peyresourde wrote:Where
It’s a Morgan Blue Chain Keeper – available for about a fiver from your favourite online retailer… An awesome yet very simple device!
The method above is how I clean my chain (although I don’t do the WD40 step – will try that next time) – very simple and effective, and far better the various “chain cleaners” that are available (which just seem to make a big mess ime).
Cheers, Hadnt thought to use
Cheers, Hadnt thought to use wd40 before applying lube, but suppose it makes sense
What about using a chain
What about using a chain cleaner tool like the Park Tool Cyclone? It’s much quicker than than emulating Picasso with a brush.
Debush wrote:What about using
They’re good but you’ll still want a brush or similar for the jockey wheels, cassette and crank.
I recently used a chain
I recently used a chain cleaning tool filled with citrus de-greaser to clean the chain on my commuter. I ran the chain through the tool twice with clean de-greaser each time. I then ran it through a couple of times with water to get the de-greaser out. It looked nice and clean on the outside but…
I then put it in a large jar filled with methylated spirits (the clear type) and shook for two minutes. The meths turned black and I had to do it another three times before muck stopped coming out.
I don’t believe the above instructions will get the grit out from the bushings and chain cleaning tools are only good for surface cleaning.
My tip is to use an old
My tip is to use an old bidon, slice the top off and seat it in the bottle holder on the seat tube.
Looking at the Morgan Blue Chain Keeper, I will raid the shed for bits tonight and make my own. For the bling version, I’m looking for an 11t sprocket. 😀
I’ve always struggled to
I’ve always struggled to understand cleaning a chain on the bike unless absolutely necessary. Get a chain with a quick link, then to clean you just remove and dump the whole chain in a container of degreaser (either a plastic bottle or leave it flat in a shallow dish). Agitate a lot, then leave to soak in the solution while cleaning the jockey wheels and cassette. Agitate the chain again, then decant and save the degreaser for reuse. Rinse a lot with water. Dry. Refit and lube
3cylinder wrote:I’ve always
I tried soaking one in citrus degreaser once. I thought if I leave it for a few hours the degreaser will get into the chain then I can give it a shake and it will come clean. Big mistake. Citrus degreaser is powerful stuff. My chain came out rusted as if it had been in a salt bath for a week. Had to buy a new chain.
Anyone tried a parts cleaner?
Anyone tried a parts cleaner? Toolstation do one for £50.
Ultrasonic bath you mean?
Ultrasonic bath you mean? MTB-ing mate has one, he say’s it’s ace.
Any advice for getting Green
Any advice for getting Green Oil Chain Lube off of a chain and everything else it has come into contact with? Even Green Oil’s Clean Chain Degreaser doesn’t seem to shift it. It is dreadful stuff and I wish I have never bought it!
wrevilo wrote:Any advice for
I’m with wrevilo on this. IMHO Green Oil is the Devils chain lube. Hardens like 10 year old chip pan oil. Any environmental benefit is wiped out by the vast quantities of solvent needed to remove it. I can’t believe the good reviews it gets. I did the environment a favour by binning mine.
Best value degreaser I know of is Screwfix No Nonsense Heavy Duty Degreaser. I have found nothing which removes Green Oil though.
Ok, this is kinda religious
Ok, this is kinda religious to me, so bear with.
Firstly, buy a 5L pack of Swarfega Degreaser from B&Q for £9. Fill an old bidon with it, so you’ve got a handy dispenser.
Use a plastic peanut butter jar or a cut-down bidon in the seattube cage, if you have one. Get a stiff brush – not a paint brush – not stiff enough.
Use a flat-bladed screwdriver to scrape the crap off the jockey wheels.
Then go to town with the brush on the chain, both sides and top/bottom. Likewise the rings and mechs. Also attack the cogset, keeping the wheel vertical so degreaser don’t run into the hub.
Leave everything to sit for 5-10 minutes.
Go over it again.
Rinse the bejesus out of it.
Leave to dry, or use a dry cloth to hasten drying.
Apply lube one drop per link, properly OCD-like.
Wipe excess off an hour later.
Personally I’d be very hesitant to use anything like WD-40 before applying lube. WD40 is both a water displacer and a degreaser of considerable merit in its own right. Putting that in your chain before applying lube is counter-intuitive.
Noting I follow the above regime every 100-200km depending on weather. My £9 KMC9.93 chains last about 5,000km a go, and never miss a shift or squeak.
I’ve gone through maybe half a dozen ‘chain cleaners’ in my time. I’m not at all convinced that they got anything cleaner than a stiff brush. Saying ‘oh look the fluid’s still dirty after using a brush and then a chain cleaner’ is nonsense – you could run a chain through one ten times and it would still come out black.
The law of diminishing returns and quick efforts says brush is best. You need it anyway for rings/mechs, it’s 30 seconds tops to deal to the chain at the same time.
Here endeth the lesson 🙂
KiwiMike wrote:Ok, this is
After doing this put the chain in a medium size jar with a rim wide enough to allow you to get the chain out again. I use an empty 907g Crespo olive jar. I understand there are people in this world who don’t like olives :O so they will have to find an alternative jar. Fill the jar with clear methylated spirits until the chain is fully submerged. Put the lid on and shake it for a few minutes. Observe how much gunk comes out of the chain that appeared to be clean. If your technique works the meths should be clear. If not the technique does not work.
Mine’s just a good wipe, add
Mine’s just a good wipe, add Finish Line Dry, run through about 30 revolutions (of the entire chain), wipe off again…
About weekly.
Seems to work, takes 5 minutes at most.
If degreasing is fine why do
If degreasing is fine why do SRAM and KMC (who also make Shimano chains) tell you not to do it?
http://www.kmcchain.eu/maintenance
“Observe how much gunk comes out of the chain that appeared to be clean”
Plus the grease that you can’t replace by slapping it on the outside.
Simon E wrote:If degreasing
KMC just want you to buy more new chains. I’m guessing the markup on chains is huge hence their farcical suggestion that using a chain cleaner with solvent will ruin the chain.
mp31 wrote:KMC just want you
Oh my goodness, I see what you mean.
They destroyed their credibility right there.
steviewevie wrote:KMC
Impeccable logic.
– manufacturer provides guidelines on product maintenance.
– the guidelines contradict the opinion of some bloke on the internet.
Therefore manufacturer must have zero credibility.
Perhaps you work for a chain cleaning / solvent company 😕
A tip: if you buy a car don’t EVER read the book in the glove compartment.
Simon E wrote:steviewevie
Impeccable logic.
– manufacturer provides guidelines on product maintenance.
– the guidelines contradict the opinion of some bloke on the internet.
Therefore manufacturer must have zero credibility.— KMC
Well to be fair, reality would sort of indicate that their statement is, at best, a bit of melodramatic over-generalisation…
Using solvent is stupid for a
Using solvent is stupid for a chain because the chain bearings will be scraped by friction while being moved to clean them, on or off a bicycle and the abrasive bits may still not be flushed out, especially off a bicycle, whereas a detergent will at least provide some protection and may capture more dirt and abrasive bits, and not leave a harmful degreasing residue behind to allow more friction after cleaning!
I use a muck off chain cleaner and neat Fenwicks FS1 cleaner, rinse the chain loads while it is moving with little load, then put on new Finish Line wet or dry ceramic wax lube, so that most of the debris is shed during use, not tunneling into the bearing when a stupid light oil is used. I put the wax lube on a new chain to better protect the bearings, and change it as needed.
So far my KMC chain seems much better than my previous SRAM ones.
Simon E wrote:If degreasing
Who said anything about replacing it with grease? Paraffin wax for me. Choo Choo. :B
None of the above
:))
None of the above jiggery-pokery has ever been shown to do anything except allow you to spend time in your shed away from the wife.
Time spent fannying about with chain cleaning is like time spent fannying about cleaning the soles of your shoes.
I use dry lube, I wash the bike as little as possible, it works.
crikey wrote:
None of the
A lot of bike mechanics and component salespeople thank you for that advice 🙂
crikey wrote:
None of the
This. It’s difficult enough to get sufficient time away from my other duties to spend 6-9 hours on the bike – yes, actually riding it – every week. OCD cleaning: Er, no.
My pleasure.
It’s just
My pleasure.
It’s just another bit of trainspotterish nonsense that cyclists indulge in rather than actually riding their bikes.
(…and embarrassingly enough I used to do it, and used to buy 6 chains, then change them after every 2 months riding, then spend time cleaning them in between. I was commuting and racing the same mountain bike.
Did it make a difference?
Only in a negative way, and only to my sex life…)
I have the following
I have the following routine:
1. Take it for servicing
2. Ride it for 1 year.
3. Take it for servicing, and pay an extra 10£ for a good cleaning.
Although this last time, when I was picking it up:
Me: “Damn, it looks as new”.
Shop owner: “Go figure. Under all the dirt, it was white after all!”
=))
I have tried just about
I have tried just about everything.
Then, a while back I read an interview with the Bissell team mechanic in the US, who recommended this routine… and it bloody well works.
Use Prolink Progold lube – it also acts as a degreaser. Used in a chain bath / chain cleaning device it gets your chain cleaner than you would believe.
So –
Step 1 – quick spray of Morgan Blue degreaser on derailleurs, cogs, chainset.
Step 2 – wash bike
Step 3 – clean chain in chain bath thingummy filled with Progold. Chain will gleam like precious thing. Wipe off excess then backpedal like billyo to get rid of the rest.
Step 4 – pour progold back into bottle, use to lube pivot points on bike.
Put bike in shed, leave to dry. The Progold then dries like a dry lube and is the best I have ever used at not picking up dust and crud, so chain stays clean and shiny for longer.
And because the chain is super clean, you don’t have that thing where it looks clean but it actually makes your cassette and chainrings grimy as soon as you the bike again (which can happen when just using the brush method above).
Whole process prob takes less time that it took me to write this…
I follow a strict regime for
I follow a strict regime for cleaning my drivetrain. During the winter when the road a mucky and thus the chain, I degrease the chain and drivetrain after every second outing or if its very foul weather each spin. In the summer it gets degreased every 150-200km.
Procedure is pretty simple but methodical:
1. Apply diesel (sparingly) to chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings. Use a small paint brush or like.
2. Leave for 5-10mins while filling bucket with hot water and your chosen bike wash/detergent.
3. Pre-Rinse bike. Wash/Soap complete bike and rinse. With remaining soapy water (or neat dish washing liquid if you like) wash chain, cassette, derailleurs (front and rear) and chainrings using an old dish washing brush. Rinse drivetrain thoroughly.
4. Back pedal cranks while gripping chain (beneath chainstay) with rag / garage strength paper towel to remove remaining dirt and old lube.
5. Dry chain with rag or air line (if available). Chain should look factory clean after this. Re-lube sparingly with chosen lube (my favourite is Rock Oil Motorcycle Chain Lube). Allow to dry and wipe off excess.
This method has resulted in chain lifespan of ~8000km for Campag chains and -6500km for Shimano/Sram. I tend to use Campag chains all the time even though I have shimano grouppo.
Quote:I follow a strict
You are a trainspotter and I claim my free GNWRS badge. You know how many kms before you degrease the chain and keep a record of the km lifespan of the chains. Weak lemon drinks all round!
crikey wrote:Quote:I follow a
@crikey I’m just sitting on the platform waiting for the Dublin – Belfast enterprise to pass. Strava and other web apps keep records of your bike components life span. I’m really enjoying this refreshing lemon flavoured beverage by the way.
How do you like them apples!! :H
Folks, let’s not be hating on
Folks, let’s not be hating on what people find works (apart from mixing a degreaser with a lube – that’s just daft 😉 )
Time spent (and I mean only a few minutes) up close & personal with your drivetrain every few weeks is essential to spot stuff starting to go wrong, that could go wrong with nasty consequences.
e.g. some people don’t check their tyres after every ride. Takes 20 seconds for both, max – and could save you a flat, blowout or major crash.
It’s a broad church.
I used to use the chain
I used to use the chain cleaning tools you can buy. In the case of the Park Tools one I thought the magnet was a good idea. But each of the tools has broken in one way or another. The brush method was a revelation and actually quicker and cleaner.
GCN have a video which gives a great breakdown of the process.
I have always been curious as to the exact properties of wet, dry and ceramic lubes available. I use a ‘wet ceramic’ lube, but only understand that a ‘wet’ lube is for wet weather, not why it is better.
I also worry about whether I have too much or too little lube on the chain. As I understand it the chain should feel lubed/sticky to the touch, but otherwise appear ‘dry’.
I thought this was the only
I thought this was the only proper way to clean your chain?
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainclean.html
Absolutely right, plus it
Absolutely right, plus it leaves no time to go out and get the chain dirty again. A win win solution what!
For those wishing to get out and ride this guide is a better alternative:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
I’ve been cleaning my mtb chains using SB’s tips for a long time and chain life has increased noticeably. In addition I always have a shiny clean chain (at the start of the ride) that passes the hand grip test.
I suspect that one of the factors most affecting chain life is too much lubricant.
Back in th 60’s my Dad taught
Back in th 60’s my Dad taught me the bike maintainance skills he used in the 1930’s, long before modern tools, cleaning materials and lubricants.
As 3cyclinders suggests, every week, after a weekend club ride, off would come the split link, the chain would then be immersed in a tin of paraffin. The lid taped up it was then immersed in boiling water for several minutes.
With a pair of gloves or an old towel it would then be shaken till your arms screamed in pain. Drained and hung to drip dry, it was then placed in a pan, covered with light oil and carefully warmed on the gas hob. Left to drain and re-fitted. Never had a problem with a chain which always ran sweetly.
Today’s chains are much cheaper to replace, and the wife won’t let me in the kitchen!
JeffR wrote:Back in th 60’s
Nostalgia ain’t what it used to be.
In this case, an enormous faff.
JeffR wrote:Back in th 60’s
I am rediscovering this technique. On my commuter the chain was so dirty I had to give it a deep clean first but on the posh bike the chain is always waxed and it stays very clean so I could probably get away without deep cleaning it before immersing in wax.
I like the idea of putting it in a tin and shaking. I have been heating the wax in a sauce pad on on an electric ring then swirling the chain around in the pan.
But now I’m thinking of mixing this old technique with new technology. Some of those ultrasonic baths have heating elements as well. What if paraffin wax was used in the bath instead of water/solvent that is normally used? That could clean an lubricate the chain in one go! :B :B
As an elderly but still keen
As an elderly but still keen cyclist I am intrigued by the variety of chain cleaning ideas – I’m with JeffR’s Dad. Back in the 50s it was chain off, into an old pan of paraffin, brought to the boil on a primus stove (outside), stirred thoroughly, hung up to dry, and then back on the bike.
I’m staggered no one has
I’m staggered no one has mentioned the superb qualities of diesel oil and the silky feel of the chain after cleaning with it.
antonio wrote:I’m staggered
You shouldn’t be. About 40 posts up someone mentioned using diesel oil 😉
I use ultrasonic bath with
I use ultrasonic bath with gunk for chain and cassette. Parts come out like new. I now have a large container of chain wax which I melt in the oven, once chain has submerged wipe down reassemble. Good for a few hundred miles if not more :))
I was a bit unsure as to how
I was a bit unsure as to how much difference a really clean chain would make vs one that just had a superficial wash over.
On one bike I tried meticulously cleaning the chain every couple of rides, using a similar method to the one in the story (minus the WD40) and on the other I just wiped the chain over with a bit of the general bike cleaner solution with a separate sponge when I was giving the bike a wash.
Both chains seemed to work fine and shift as well as each other the next time the bike was used, but the one that just got the simple wash over did seem to get a little bit less slick on about the 3rd or 4th ride between cleanings but it wasn’t anything very noticeable.
Can’t really comment about longevity of the chains, I change them once they’ve stretched a bit far, it usually seems to be quicker than any actual wear.
Might not be the most scientific method but from my experience I’ve stuck with giving it a simple wash in detergent when the bike gets cleaned, and a more thorough degreasing if the chain picks up a lot of dirt that won’t wash off straight away.
Erm is petrol not any good
Erm is petrol not any good then!
Like others I was bemused as
Like others I was bemused as to who leaves the chain on the bike for a deep clean when it has a split link that lets you remove it.
Same goes for cassettes.
MKultra wrote:Like others I
People with a life probably… that or no chain whip..
fukawitribe wrote:MKultra
People with a life probably… that or no chain whip..— MKultraSo people repeatedly drop all this money on boutique cleaning products rather than a one time purchase of a chain whip and remover so you can just dump it all in a jam jar of degreaser/parafin/spirit all of which are cheap.
And you claim I am the one who needs to get a life?
MKultra wrote:fukawitribe
People with a life probably… that or no chain whip..— fukawitribeSo people repeatedly drop all this money on boutique cleaning products rather than a one time purchase of a chain whip and remover so you can just dump it all in a jam jar of degreaser/parafin/spirit all of which are cheap.
And you claim I am the one who needs to get a life?— MKultra
Well firstly the comment was meant half in jest – a difficult thing to remember to try and convey reliably, so it wasn’t my intention to be nasty.
Secondly I can give my cassette a very good clean using degreaser and soapy water plus some random brushes etc lying around without having to remove the thing from the wheel – I said nothing about “boutique cleaning products”. I would have to require an astonishingly high level of “deep” to need to take it off (which I do do * from time to time), which is what I was really questioning.
* apologies for saying ‘do do’.
Big mouth Lucozade bottle
Big mouth Lucozade bottle full of red diesel, odd socks for wiping down, and Fenwick’s stealth. Silent Running.
New chains always seem to be
New chains always seem to be overgreased and the grease they are packed in seems specifically designed to get truly filthy quite quickly. I’ve found chain cleans up much more easily on subsequent cleans once you’ve first removed packing grease.
Never clean a chain on the
Never clean a chain on the bike, always remove and degrease then rinse thoroughly, dry and re-lube with chainsaw oil. Clean all other components. Re-assemble. 1 hour every 3-4 months if you ride EVERY day 35-40 miles each day.