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Upgrading wheels - new cassette and disc brake rotors?

by Matt3406
Wed, Dec 26, 2018 21:56
10

Hello,

After really struggling the other week to fix a puncture on a cycle track in the middle of nowhere and in the cold, I'm considering tubeless tyres and looking at some Mavic Cosmic Elite's for my Scott Speedster 10 Disc bike.

Having not upgraded wheels before, is it advisable to buy a new cassette and rotors for the disc brakes or can I just move the existing ones over to the new wheels?

Thanks in advance,

Matt

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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10 comments

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CXR94Di2 | 5 years ago
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Bullshit. Mavic introduced UST technology to the MTB world 20 years ago. There's a very good reason why it has taken them almost 20 years to bring it to the road bike world.

Mavic introduced thier idea for a tubeless tyre system.  It doesnt mean that standard clincher rims cant be used for tubeless setup.  There is hardly any difference to worry about, unless your are pushing the limits of adhesion/grip/tyre pressure and speed, the vast majority of us arent.

Tubeless has been on cars/motorcycles for decades- its nothing revolutionary, its progression to continue suckers buying new products. 

Remember TV screens they were rounded in the corners, then FST(flatter squarer tube), followed by widescreen.  Nothing revolutionary, but marketed as the latest best thing-Bullshit marketing for suckers to buy into

Mavic confirm lower pressures offer better rolling resistance.  Having realised folk were already adopting tubeless tech for road bikes Mavic then began to market their tubeless wheelsets-probably due to sales drop.

Usual sales bullshit

https://road.cc/content/tech-news/224595-mavic-introduces-road-ust-tubel...

 

 

Avatar
kevvjj | 5 years ago
0 likes

firstly don't attempt to turn non tubeless rims into tubeless - it might work with MTB tyres but the road tyre pressures are way too high.

You don't need to change the cassette or rotor but if you buy an 11 speed wheel you will need a spacer for the 10 speed cassette (it should come with the wheels).

 

Going road tubeless won't stop all punctures and with such high pressures my experience is that a decent cut will have all of the sealant spewing out all over your bike and you. Then you have to put a tube in anyway just to get home.

Save yourself some money and wait for road tubeless technology to get as good as MTB tubeless technology (Mavic are almost there) and whilst you're waiting learn how to change a tube - it's a basic skill you'll still need even if you go tubeless.

Avatar
CXR94Di2 replied to kevvjj | 5 years ago
1 like

kevvjj wrote:

firstly don't attempt to turn non tubeless rims into tubeless - it might work with MTB tyres but the road tyre pressures are way too high.

You don't need to change the cassette or rotor but if you buy an 11 speed wheel you will need a spacer for the 10 speed cassette (it should come with the wheels).

 

Going road tubeless won't stop all punctures and with such high pressures my experience is that a decent cut will have all of the sealant spewing out all over your bike and you. Then you have to put a tube in anyway just to get home.

Save yourself some money and wait for road tubeless technology to get as good as MTB tubeless technology (Mavic are almost there) and whilst you're waiting learn how to change a tube - it's a basic skill you'll still need even if you go tubeless.

 

Eh,  Going tubeless reduces tyre pressures, typical inner tube 25mm tyre 100psi, tubeless, 80-90psi.  Tubeless prevents stoppages from all those thorn and flint shard punctures which are far the biggest proportion of punctures.  Larger cuts are rare and will necessitate an inner tube whether tubeless or inner tube setup.

The technology is the same as mtb as it is for road.  Its bull sh!t marketing to say that dont use standard rim comapred to a tubeless ready.  Ive done it and its fine, the sealant actually makes a good rim bond with tyre.

Same process to prepare wheels, clean inside rim, add rim tape, fit tyre dry, inflate and add 75mil sealant either through vavle core or just tyre lever a small section of tyre from rim.

Avatar
kevvjj replied to CXR94Di2 | 5 years ago
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CXR94Di2 wrote:

kevvjj wrote:

firstly don't attempt to turn non tubeless rims into tubeless - it might work with MTB tyres but the road tyre pressures are way too high.

You don't need to change the cassette or rotor but if you buy an 11 speed wheel you will need a spacer for the 10 speed cassette (it should come with the wheels).

 

Going road tubeless won't stop all punctures and with such high pressures my experience is that a decent cut will have all of the sealant spewing out all over your bike and you. Then you have to put a tube in anyway just to get home.

Save yourself some money and wait for road tubeless technology to get as good as MTB tubeless technology (Mavic are almost there) and whilst you're waiting learn how to change a tube - it's a basic skill you'll still need even if you go tubeless.

Eh,  Going tubeless reduces tyre pressures, typical inner tube 25mm tyre 100psi, tubeless, 80-90psi.  Tubeless prevents stoppages from all those thorn and flint shard punctures which are far the biggest proportion of punctures.  Larger cuts are rare and will necessitate an inner tube whether tubeless or inner tube setup.

The technology is the same as mtb as it is for road.  Its bull sh!t marketing to say that dont use standard rim comapred to a tubeless ready.  Ive done it and its fine, the sealant actually makes a good rim bond with tyre.

Same process to prepare wheels, clean inside rim, add rim tape, fit tyre dry, inflate and add 75mil sealant either through vavle core or just tyre lever a small section of tyre from rim.

Bullshit. Mavic introduced UST technology to the MTB world 20 years ago. There's a very good reason why it has taken them almost 20 years to bring it to the road bike world.

Avatar
Mr Pennington | 5 years ago
0 likes

I'm with Pilot Pete. If you struggled fixing a puncture have you looked at videos on how to install tubeless tires?

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Pilot Pete | 5 years ago
2 likes

It does beg the question ‘what were you really struggling with changing a tube’?

Avatar
CXR94Di2 | 5 years ago
1 like

Just add sealant to tubes.   Undo valve core, use a 10mm syringe to inject 70mil in each tube.  Clean up excess, refit valve core and inflate.   I use Orange sealant which is very good.  You can also use Stan's sealant.  If you dont understand, YouTube is a valuable resource

 

Also you don't need new wheels to fit tubeless tyres.  I've fitted many to non tubeless wheels and it's not a problem.  It's the same method, clean rim, apply Stan's rim tape, install tyre add 70mil of sealant.  Complete tyre fitment and inflation, see YouTube for help

Avatar
bikercat | 5 years ago
1 like

A cheaper option maybe to keep your existing wheels and use sealant in your inner tubes.

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Simon E replied to bikercat | 5 years ago
0 likes

bikercat wrote:

A cheaper option maybe to keep your existing wheels and use sealant in your inner tubes.

and/or more puncture-resistant tyres.

Avatar
Mathemagician | 5 years ago
1 like

Meh, should be fine. Just be sure the rotor system is the same, 6-bolt or Centre-lock.

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