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13 comments
Give it a year or two for everyone to upgrade to disc brakes and Road Direct Mount will be the next must-have feature that requires a new frame![1](https://cdn.road.cc/sites/all/modules/contrib/smiley/packs/smilies/1.gif)
The Shimano ones all support a hanger adaptor, like how they're currently fitted to frames not specifically designed around DRD derailleurs.
Getting even more OT - whatever happened to Shimano's direct mount derailleur standard, which IIRC removes the need for all this hanger-bending malarkey?
AFAIK pretty much all newer Shimano RDs are direct mount compatible, MTB ones have been for some while. Plenty of DRD compatible MTB frames as well, not sure how much it's caught on in the road world.
I cut a slot in the end of my homebrew tool and slide a steel rule in it. Don't underestimate those basic tools, Doctor. I think you could knock up a reasonable hanger bender with your drill stand and hacksaw - plus, perhaps, a mitre box, to ensure a square cut in the steel box. If you use an imperial drill bit (25/64") rather than a metric one, you won't have very much play at all - not that it would matter - your tool would trace a cone rather than a disc if you took up the slack.
A mate of mine has the Park Tool DAG but now borrows my hanger bender; says he doesn't like the amount of play in the DAG. I think it cost him well over fifty quid. Mine cost me a tenner and an hour's therapy in the shed.
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Fellow Japan resident here. When I needed a replacement hanger I ordered a new one from here http://gearmechhanger.com Sent them a photo of my current hanger and they did the rest.
Wonder if it's worth buying your own hanger straightening tool for future use?
The B-tension adjustment ought to sort it. How big is the difference?
A useful addition to the tool box. Alternatively, you can make your own from a length of 20mm steel box, an M10x1 bolt and a couple of washers and nuts.
Agree it is a useful addition.
The DIY version sounds like a mech bending tool in my hands. I would need to improvise a sliding gauge to check the alignment relative to the rim, and machine the mounting hole and bolt with a sufficient tolerance that the wobble at the bolt was significantly less than range of satisfactory angles for the mech alignment. Both are outside the tolerances of my diy machine shop, which is basically a drill stand and a hacksaw.
Or take the original to a local bike shop and they will straighten it for you in about 5 seconds
Tried that, I either couldn't explain it properly or straightening derailleur hangers isn't a thing here.
Use the B-screw to adjust the jockey wheels closer to the sprockets after fitting the new hanger.
Agreed, adjusting the B-screw should mean there will be no issues.