Shimano, Campagnolo and SRAM have all offered electronic shifting for several years, FSA has joined them, and SRAM has updated its eTap system to 12-speed and launched a less expensive Force eTap. With complete electronic-shift bikes costing from around £2,400, should you be thinking about making the move?
Let’s take a look at the advantages.
Check out our Shimano Dura-Ace R9150 Di2 review here
Improved shifts
How much more precise than mechanical shifts can electronic shifts be? Well, with a mechanical system, if you push the lever to move from one chainring to the other the front mech performs the same every time. With an electronic system the front mech acts slightly differently depending on the sprocket you’re in at the time.

Take SRAM’s eTap system. When you move from the small chainring to the big chainring, the cage overshifts slightly to help the chain make the jump. Then a fraction of a second later, once the chain is up there, the cage moves back inboard to its standard position.

When you’re shifting from the big chainring to the small chainring, the cage moves inboard in two stages. First, it shifts just enough to move the chain down. Then a fraction of a second later, once the chain is down on the inner ring, it moves a little further across. Doing things this way avoids the possibility of the chain coming off the inside of the small chainring.
The extent to which these two things happen depends on the sprocket that you’re in at the time. Say you have the chain on the small chainring and one of the larger sprockets and you want to change to the large chainring. The rear mech lets the front mech know that it needs to overshift more than it would if the chain was further outboard on one of the smaller sprockets.
The bottom line is that you get excellent shifting even under load.
Read our SRAM Force eTap AXS Wide groupset review
“Dura-Ace or Ultegra Di2 electronic gear shifting moves the chain exactly where it needs to be through a programmed front or rear derailleur position,” says Shimano.
“The science behind it is truly incredible and also programmable to your specific shifting preference [see below]. You make a command and the system responds accurately every time. In a race situation the reliability and the confidence it inspires can mean the difference between making a break or not.”
Quicker shifting
If you want to shift right across the cassette with a mechanical shift system, you need to press the lever more than once (different systems require different numbers of presses). With electronic systems you can shift from one side of the cassette to the other when you press and hold the lever in. It’s just a little bit easier.

Campagnolo claims that, “[EPS rear derailleur] shift times are now 25% faster that than the mechanical rear derailleur (taking just 0.352 seconds to swap sprockets)”.
Check out our reviews of Shimano Ultegra Di2.
You can customise the shifting
With Shimano Di2 and SRAM AXS eTap you can customise the shifting speed and the number of gears the system will shift when you press and hold the lever. You can also swap the functions of the upshift lever and the downshift lever, and even the functions of the left lever and the right lever. SRAM’s first Red eTap system didn’t have the ability to customise the shifting, but the two new AXS 12-speed groups can be customised via a smartphone app.

Campagnolo’s MyCampy app allows you to customise shifter function in an EPS system.

No chain rub
Once a Shimano Di2 or Campagnolo EPS system is set up correctly, no matter what sprocket you are in you never need to adjust the position of the front mech to prevent the chain rubbing on the front mech’s side plates because it is done automatically.

After you shift the rear derailleur you’ll sometimes hear a whirr as the front mech moves slightly to take account of the chain’s new position, the idea being to improve efficiency and reduce wear.
SRAM says this isn’t necessary with its eTap system because there’s no danger of chainrub no matter which chainring/sprocket combo you’re using.
Read our SRAM Red eTap First Ride.
Simple operation
Changing gear with an electronic system requires a far shorter lever movement than with the mechanical equivalents. You’re really just pressing a button, never needing to sweep a lever across.

Moving the levers on a mechanical system is hardly the trickiest operation in the world, but it can be a bit of a reach if you want to shift across the entire range available to you. Things are just a little simpler with electronic systems.

With SRAM’s eTap system the lever on one shifter performs upshifts, the lever on the other shifter performs downshifts, and you push them both at the same time to shift between chainrings. It’s a really simple system to use, even if you’re wearing big gloves or mittens in cold weather.
Multiple shift position options
On a road bike with Shimano or SRAM electronic shifting you usually change gear via the combined brake and gear shifters, a lot like you would with a mechanical system, but you can add satellite shifters elsewhere on your handlebar to make it slightly easier to change gear in certain situations, especially when racing.

Shimano offers its Climbing Shifter that you can fix to the top section of your handlebar.

It also has a Sprinter Shifter that you can fit to the drops.

SRAM’s eTap system has satellite shifters called Blips that you can position anywhere on the handlebar, and now there’s a wireless version too.
You can change gear on a time trial bike while out of the saddle
If you’re riding a time trial/triathlon bike with mechanical shifting, the shift levers will be positioned at the front of the aero extensions where they’re easy to access when you’re in your aero position. That means you can’t change gear when you’re riding out of the saddle with your hands on the base bar.

With an electronic system, you can have shifters on the aero extensions and on the base bar, so it’s easy to change gear if you’re out of the saddle when climbing or coming out of a tight corner.

Read our Campagnolo EPS First Ride from way back when it was first launched.
There’s minimal maintenance

With an electronic system there’s very little routine maintenance and you’ll never need to replace a cable. Little, if any, tuning is required after the initial set-up.
Even that initial setup is very easy with SRAM’s eTap system. It’s wireless so there’s no need to route cables through your frame.
Mechanical shifting has been working fine for many, many years and it will continue to do so, and it’s considerably cheaper than an electronic setup. If you don’t find the benefits we’ve listed above compelling enough to convince you to change to electronic, no component manufacturer is going to stop offering mechanical shifting any time soon.

One of the most frequent objections to going electronic is the possibility of running out of charge mid-ride. That’s unlikely to happen unless you really don’t concentrate. You’ll get hundreds of miles between charges on every electronic shift system, and plenty of warning that you’re low on juice.
Even if the battery does go flat, you can manually put the chain into the gear you want and ride home singlespeed.
Of course, you don’t need to make the switch to electronic shifting.
“You can also get precise, fast and accurate shifting from Dura-Ace, Ultegra or 105 mechanical gears,” says Shimano. “In this sense, as well as making a command – ie pushing the lever – you also operate the system by pulling or releasing a cable.
“There’s a certain art to setting up your drivetrain manually to get this level of efficiency. A lot of riders prefer to know how to operate every individual component within their drivetrain, which is easier with a mechanical system.
“With each type of shifting having its merits, the question is whether you want to command your drive train through the push of a button, or to physically operate it using a lever. Perhaps the answer is to have both depending on the particulars of your ride.”
Most people we know who have tried electronic shifting for a significant period of time want to stick with it, but the choice is yours.




















129 thoughts on “7 reasons why you should get electronic shifting”
I’ve used them once and I was
I’ve used them once and I was instantly converted.
Once I can afford it my next bike will be Di2 (Genesis Datum).
If I ever get to switch it’s
If I ever get to switch it’s going to be wireless. But at £2k+ right now for the only available wireless one (at least until FSA finish theirs, though that looks like it’s ‘semi wireless’) there are just too many other things with bigger advantages I could get for the cash, esp as I’m not exactly striving to be a pro or anything 😉
Wireless should be less than
Wireless should be less than £1k. From Wiggle if you have platinum. January apparently.
That’s assuming you only buy the shifters and mechs etc.
Agree that wireless is the
Agree that wireless is the future. In the same way that concealed cables quickly became the norm. Give it a few years and all the wired systems will look horribly dated and Shimano/Campag will make a shedload in selling their new wireless ranges.
enigmaman wrote:
Funny that on the tour this year every team was running Shimano Di2…
I wouldn’t be surprised if SRAM don’t drop the eTap system at some point.
enigmaman wrote:
Funny that on the tour this year every team was running Shimano Di2…
I wouldn’t be surprised if SRAM don’t drop the eTap system at some point.
enigmaman wrote:
My Giant Defy Advanced 3 rattles like a fucker when I’m on it. The shop says it’s the cables that go into the down tube just behind the fork. But they seem powerless to stop it.
Far easier to do the setup
Far easier to do the setup for a home mechanic than on a mechanical system – particularly the front mech.
The only downside for me is the aesthetics of an external cabled system. If you have an internal routed frame fair enough but then if anything goes wrong its likely to be a bottom bracket out job, not a roadside fix.
Looks like SRAM Wireless will fix both these issues, it just needs the option for a bigger cassette as currently it maxes out at a 28 cog. Have grown to love the 32 I have on my Ultegra Di2 install. That’s probably the only thing stopping me from switching to SRAM once its released.
Hold on there everyone! While
Hold on there everyone! While personally I have never used electronic shifting, I have spoken to many people who come into my shop who do. I would say that atleast 1/3rd simply dislike the system (mostly Di2) or are indifferent.
The main complaint is that it simply lacks feel, espically while wearing gloves.
paulskinn1 wrote:
How long before we get ‘force feedback’ in the levers like in a playstation* controller?
*other video game controllers are available
I’ve always been disappointed
I’ve always been disappointed by how big and ugly the wired systems are – the photo of the Di2 climbing shifter is a good example. Big, bulky units strapped to the bars and stem, and wires everywhere.
The SRAM stuff is definitely a step in the right direction, although there’s a part of me that feels that electronic gears somehow compromises what is otherwise an entirely human powered and operated machine.
For the kind of cycling I do
For the kind of cycling I do (mostly tandem touring and solo time trialling), I see absolutely no compelling reason to convert to electronic shiffting.
For the former, the Rohloff hub has too many advantages for the tourist to revert to a derailleur based system.
For the time trialling, I find my shifts are precise and effective using my regular bar end cable levers. And I’m still on 9 speed cassettes on my aero wheels.
For my road bike riding, I’m using Campag 11-speed and that works well for me. Cable systems have the advantage of being easily bodged backinto action if you have issues out on the road. My opinion might be rather more nuanced were I to do road racing, I guess.
Grumpy Bob wrote:
I guess they could always change to Alfine
http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/components11/city—comfort/alfine-di21.html
Right now my dream bike is a
Right now my dream bike is a naked titanium frame with discs, hydro pipes routed internally and wireless eTap. Nothing to spoil the frame at all.
Gizmo_ wrote:
Why don’t you just get a titanium track bike then? 😉
LarryDavidJr wrote:
smithy wrote:
My latest and so I thought last new bike is titanilum with internal routing and hydraulic discs and a mechanical group set.
I wish I had gone for a mechanical groupset, I love the bike it is like riding a feather bed, but I really do not like the look (The more I look at them the more hiddeous they get!) or behaviour of those discs. IMHO they overbrake the bike (had two nasty experiences with the rear wheel lifting) and they can get embarrasingly noisy if I forget to wash the discs with Isopropol Alcohol after every two rides.
They also add weight and limit wheel choice, I made a big mistake that will cost to rectify ,caveat emptor!
There is a third way:
There is a third way:
http://road.cc/content/news/161215-rotor-reveals-first-glimpse-its-new-uno-groupset-and-its-hydraulic
my next ride will be discs
my next ride will be discs and electronic shifting if ebay will remove their rule on selling kids and interanl organs. wireless will be ace as I just done like the daft little junction box you get with Di2
I appreciate all the benefits
I appreciate all the benefits listed but I’m personally not convinced that I need them or a top of the range groupset, especially when I compare myself against guys I know who do have them and who are slower than me.
stenmeister wrote:
I know what you are saying but its not everything has to be about making you faster. sometimes its just because its nice…..and some of us are suckers for a bit of tech
stenmeister wrote:
I’m probably slower than you, and have Di2. I don’t ride it to be quicker (it isn’t), but because it makes my riding more enjoyable. It annoys me this “only buy nice kit if you race/are amazing” attitude. If it makes you enjoy your riding more, then what’s the problem. I’ve recently built up an 11spd 105 winter bike. Really impressed with that groupset (better than my older Ultegra group), but when I get the best bike out, it really emphasises how much I prefer Di2.
Had a play with the SRAM Etap recently. Very impressed. It does have a nicer lever feel (a definitive click) than Di2. It will be interesting to see if it trickles down to force next year (Rival after?). At the moment, you can get an Ultegra Di2 full groups for £750. SRAM red is going to be pretty pricy in comparison.
robthehungrymonkey wrote:
Fair point
My initial comment stemmed from the fact that I was looking at the guys with Di2 and thinking “How is this actually benefiting you?” but after reading your comment I understand it a little better. I’m a sucker for quality kit myself and so I guess it’s not too different.
robthehungrymonkey wrote:
Same here – TBH I wouldn’t use Di2 for racing as I’m a) not good enough, I just race for a bit of fun and b) more likely to be involved in a crash which would be extremely expensive! I’m just a hobby racer, it’s an enjoyable way of spending a few Sundays a year (certainly not “regularly”) and I don’t have a team car behind me with £30,000 of spare kit on board so I’ll race what is cheap and easily repairable.
But for general riding, top end kit is amazing. It feels better all round and that makes my ride more enjoyable. For really long days out, it’s nicer to be on a light, stiff, efficient carbon frame with powerful easily modulated disc brakes and effortless Di2 than it is to be on “lower end” kit.
How long *is* the battery
How long *is* the battery life on these? And how convenient is it too charge them. You’ve got at least 3 devices to charge up.
pakennedy wrote:
Clearly you haven’t bothered to check your info, there’s one battery and one charging port for the whole system….
markfireblade wrote:
Bad attitude… Might the OP have been referring to the eTap system???
pakennedy wrote:
Battery life really depends on how often you use them so the terrain that you’re riding will have a big effect. However I hear good things, a lot of the Transcontinental riders swear by it and power/charging things for them is a major PITA.
On the eTAP system the front and rear derailiers each have a rechargeble batter that unclips and sits on the charging station (wherever you want) to be recharged. They take about 45 mins each. The shifters have CR2032 batteries in them.
I’m fortunate enough to run a
I’m fortunate enough to run a Di2 system on my bestest bike and it is an absolute joy to use, one of the rare instances of my experience living up to the hype of product review journalists hopped up on orange squash. Do I need it? No, but like mrchrispy says, sometimes there is just a simple pleasure in owning a really nice piece of tech, especially when that tech operates flawlessly.
Battery life depends on usage but I’ve charged mine once in 2000+ miles over the last 6 months. It’s no more difficult than plugging a usb cable in. The hardest part is remembering where you’ve put the sodding cable for safe keeping!
Stupid article title. Most
Stupid article title. Most people definitely shouldn’t switch to electronic shifting as it’s expensive, while mechanical shifting has been around for 100 years, proved to be very reliable, and performs extremely well. I will admit, electronic shifting is ideal for two markets: professionals, and the “all the gear, no idea” brigade.
chokofingrz wrote:
Hmmm, I’d argue that it’s more relevant to consumers that don’t have a pro mechanic to make sure their mechanical setup is perfect before every ride.
For me, it’s just better. Yes, it’s expensive (mine came on a second hand bike) but i’d rather spend an extra couple of hundred pounds to get Di2. Which spread over the time i’ll own the bike and the hundreds of hours that will spend on said bike probably isn’t too bad. I may not be a super quick racer, but I am a massive bike geek and generally have an “idea”. Probably more than you do.
chokofingrz wrote:
I’m not professional
I haven’t got all the gear
I have got a little bit of an idea.
I like progress, new technology etc.
I just don’t want to upset you…
PaulBox wrote:
I’m not professional
I haven’t got all the gear
I have got a little bit of an idea.
I like progress, new technology etc.
I just don’t want to upset you…
[/quote]
Plus 1
chokofingrz wrote:
What is it with this attitude towards people who want the best that they can afford?? I’m no pro and probably only have a very little idea, but, I like nice things. I’m sure i wouldn’t be any faster with a 10 speed veloce, but trust me, I feel a helluva lot happier riding around with super record.
Plus it’s cooler. FACT.
chokofingrz wrote:
I have tiny fingers and have difficulty reaching mechanical shifters to get enough leverage to push effectively. And even then pushing the chain up takes me effort and can cause the stearing line to deviate a little.
From my point of view, three
From my point of view, three points were stretched out into eight to make it more enticing for debate: improved shifting, more positions, and less maintenance.
All of them are comfort points. Even (less than a tenth of a second) faster shifting is unlikely to yield a discernible performance advantages. Nice to have, for sure. The reviews sound great, and people I know swear by it. But it’s probably not worth the price differential for me at this point. Particularly since I have a feeling that prices will fall significantly (as with nearly every newly electronic device a few years out from being brought to market) as economies of scale come into play and new players shill out their wares. For now, though, you can upgrade a lot of carbon with that eTap money, with more tangible performance and comfort benefits. Also, niggles have to be worked out: Shimano wireless rumours abound, eTap is missing WiFly and I still don’t trust SRAM hydro brakes, FSA continues testing what is no longer the worst-kept secret in cycling, ceding that title to Campagnolo. Meanwhile well set-up mechanical shifting is better than ever all the way across the price range.
Still, I’ll obviously be checking back to see where things stand when it comes time to buy my next bike.
I came back to check on the
I came back to check on the discussion but I couldn’t find the post anywhere in the front page. Clicked through news (had to scroll to the next page to be sure), reviews, and blogs before I finally clicked on features. I’m not trying to be a retro-grouch (though these last two posts do not portend well for my future), this is just an FWI in case anyone from the road.cc team is listening in.
advantages : no dropped chains or failed shifts
disadvantages: chain can break if you shift while not pedalling
Most of the people who are
Most of the people who are less than impressed haven’t tried the electronic system.
I have however tried it Di2 on a Pinnarello test bike and in fairness it did work quite well and the little tweak on the front changer when changing cogs at the back was quite cool.
But I wasn’t impressed enough to feel it worth the bother. In fact when I was back on my vintage road bike for another circuit with a colleague using the Di2 it felt fine and certainly my gear changes were as slick as my riding companion on the Di2. Bearing in mind that my setup was 30 years old with an 8 speed cassette and no indexing and Simplex retro friction downtube levers that is saying something. Trimming the front was something we just learned to do and I still happily change either mech with either hand.
Of course 30 year old technology isn’t for everyone as you have to learn the technique so modern indexed systems are actually great. The Di2 however offered very little advantage over my cable operated Sora system on my tourer and I have no problem tweaking and trimming on that either.
If I were racing I would still, as I used to, go for the best quality robust and reliable system I could find (in the old days that was a mixture of Campag Record and Shimano Dura-Ace) but I certainly wouldn’t go electronic.
Why? simple really – unneccesary complexity and reliance on a power source.
shay cycles wrote:
I think you have extended the debate to include whether more than an 8 speed cassette is really necessary. I think you should only consider the 11-speed manual vs electric case.
I imagine e a 10 or 11 shifting w/out indexing would be more diffcult than 8 sp shifting w/out indexing.
ch wrote:
I’m not suggesting people would choose a non-indexed system over indexed but pointing out that the newer technology tends to offer marginal benefit. Those marginal benefits always also comes with some drawbacks which may also be marginal of course.
E.G. (old) clearly indexing offers benefits in terms of easy of gear shift – the drawback was apparent if you popped in a wheel with different sproket spacing.
E.G. (modern) electronic shifting has benefits expressed in the article – the drawbacks are needing electricity and a more complex, less robust mechanism (motors and electronics where a simple set of springs and pivots would suffice)
Most of people understand the
Most of people understand the benefits of electronic shifting but at the current prices it’s nothing more than just a toy for people with high disposable income.
It also makes a very poor long term investment as components will be becoming quickly obsolete (not repairable/servicable) at least in case of Shimano.
The article/feature should be more critical and objective.
For anyone who truly enjoys riding it makes little difference how the gears are changed. Some people really spend too much time thinking about equipment.
BBB wrote:
I’m happily using 10-speed mechanical indexed, components of which are cheap due to the advent of 11-speed. So I catch your drift. But at some future time, IF I were to “upgrade” to 11-speed, I’d have to compare a pricey 11-speed mechanical shifter-derailleur setup to the comparable electronic setup. In terms of price – they are both expensive. In terms of maintenance and performance – taking into account reports from actual riders I know personally about how their electronic shifter systems are holding up and how they perform – again the adjustment is automatic, haven’t heard yet of the motors burning out, but obviously battery lifetime and time to empty are a bottleneck.
Oh yes – no cable fray. Even though I try to replace the cables “in time” – I’ve been caught out a half dozen times – usually in the middle of a long hilly ride.
I can give you over 400
I can give you over 400 reasons why you shouldn’t! A quick check on Chain Reaction Cycles website shows Ultegra Di2 is over £420 dearer than mechanical. Invest the difference in a better set of wheels for a much more effective performance enhancement.
Daipink wrote:
Over time this price difference will diminish. Also, you never know when a bargain might appear, e.g., a good deal on a used bike with electronic shifting (actually happened to my friend).
I’m in no rush.
ch wrote:
Over time this price difference will diminish. Also, you never know when a bargain might appear, e.g., a good deal on a used bike with electronic shifting (actually happened to my friend).
I’m in no rush.— Daipink
All the more reason to buy those wheels now then you can PROVE to the wife the savings are better using the same logic as shoe & handbag purchases. Personaly I am not good enough or fast enough to bother with electronic toys but a nice set of light free rolling wheels will help.
WashoutWheeler wrote:
Do you need to be either of those things to justify electronic toys?
David Arthur @davearthur
I am not sure if these are toys, certainly Mr Boardman feels they are unessecary embuggerance and he knows a good deal more than me about cycling and bikes!
My point was that if, I were a Fast – Professional Rider who depended upon wins for my living, if electronic shifting MIGHT make the difference between my winning or losing, that might be sufficient grounds to justify the cost of investment.
Personaly I cant see how spending another grand and adding extra weight will aid me, A nice wheel upgrade? Now that is worth saving for IMHO.
Hopefully, Shimano will now
Hopefully, Shimano will now concentrate on chasing the big-spenders, tempting them with ever shinier, more expensive electronic groupsets, and they’ll stop buggering around with the real star of the line-up; Sora.
(cheap parts, reliable shifting – thanks to the long cablepull, equally spaced chainring bolts, optional triple, etc.)
bumble wrote:
Sora Di3 Triple, flappy paddle up, flappy paddle down. semi mech. maybe just have the di2 actuate the cable from the hoods.
“Why you should switch to
“Why you should switch to electronic shifting” – well, we shouldn’t switch to anything. Why is the media trying to make us buy stuff? I ride a hydro disc brake road bike (and love it) but I am telling no one, they “should” switch to disc brakes. Product marketing is legitimate but better left to the companies who sell their products.
Don’t get me wrong I am a Di2
Don’t get me wrong I am a Di2 fan and have 3 bikes all ftted with Ultegra Di2. However when purchasing my last bike (SuperSix Evo) I rode both versions: mechanical and electronic Ultegra groupsets and the bike with mechanical shifting was noticably lighter…
I want Etap Hydro but two
I want Etap Hydro but two things stopping that happening. Finding stock and the cash, other than that it’s all systems go
Wired is passe because its an
Wired is passe because its an invitation to sealing problems and it looks bad. Wifi is the future but until as Sram has some competition, people will be a shy of going this route. In the meantime Sram will understandably exploit early adopters to recoup development costs and effectively beta test the technology. However with wifi competition from the laggards at Shimano and Compagnolo, prices will come down and performance and reliability only improve further. At that time lots of ordinary people will go electronic – me included.
i’ve di2 on my Mason and love
i’ve di2 on my Mason and love the “almost” fit and forget …. once setup it’s
check the charge once a month and ride. any weather, any conditions, any time
martini like 🙂
Not sure about the shape of some of the hoods so looking longingly at the
etap hydro but as a couple of others have said …. no cash for that kind
of “splurge” 🙂
When its more affordable
When its more affordable perhaps but tha fraction of second improvement doesn’t do it for me VfM wise at the moment.
I suppose the batteries are improving but I’ve seen too many riders have to abandon due to flat batteries before the ride even starts, that thought doesn’t do it for me either :-/
I like my tech as much as the
I like my tech as much as the next person, but somehow when it comes to bikes I like the idea that they are something that any Victorian engineer could look and understand (notwithstanding that some parts, such as derailleurs, were invented later). Just an irrational aesthetic notion, I know…
Or perhaps it’s just that I’ve had enough struggles with electronic devices and their susceptibility to battery failure, firmware updates that brick them, or just the phase of the moon, and bicycles provide an escape from them…
Perhaps I’d feel differently if I thought that mechanical shifting was a problem urgently in need of a solution 😉
Had a go on a mate’s Ultegra
Had a go on a mate’s Ultegra Di2 and ended up unimpressed. I use Campag Potenza and gear shifts are superb, can’t see the point in electronic. But then again I’m the sort of person who believes cables should be externally routed, and enjoys the occasional tweak of the barrel adjuster to make shifts that little bit more perfect.
Can we expect an article “Why
Can we expect an article “Why you should stick with mechanical shifting”? There are surely as many valid points to be made.
Ive run Shimano Di2 for over
Ive run Shimano Di2 for over 6 years now in the following forms
Ultegra 6700, Ultegra 6800, Dura ace 7900, Dura ace 9000 and along with the disc brake versions of Ultegra 6800 and Dura ace 9000 Di2
All were used in all weathers including commuting to work (5000 miles a year) in all weathers including snow
All were absolutley faultless, great shifting everytime, i was a complete convert and not willing to go back to mechanical shifting and rim brakes
Yet my current bike has Campag super record mechanical and rim brakes and i absolutley love it!!!
Di2 is great but there’s nothing like the feel of a mechanical groupset to me, yes it can be less smooth than Di2 and need a little more maintaince but for feedback and feeling you cant beat it
Im only gripe with mechanical shifting after having Di2 for so long is having to trim the front mech!
Personally I don’t want
Personally I don’t want electronic shifting but I like the technology and totally understand anyone who wants to use it. However when Shimano brought out Di2 my immediate reaction was that they had dropped the ball with a wired system and said so at the time. In this day and age all electronic devices communicate wirelessly. Also the system is so vulnerable to a wire getting damaged. I wasn’t in the least surprised when Sram came out with a wireless system, it’s the only way to go.
I run Ultegra 6800 Di2 on one
I run Ultegra 6800 Di2 on one bike and mechanical 105 5800 on the other.
The rear shift on 105 is really light and very close to Di2 in my opinion, but…
Setup is much easier. In my experience mechanical front mechs are total dogs to set up and get absolutely perfect (admittedly I’ve only used Shimano ones of various vintages). I even bought the newest FD-5801 that is supposed to have a super light action and no need for the long arm that hits my mudguard. After an hour I’m still yet to have it functioning nicely. Di2 means no frayed cables in the front mech or trying to pull the cables as tight as possible and still finding them too slack. Neither of my mechnical bikes have barrel adjusters (hence the purchase of the FD5801 which has barrel adjustment on the mech itself).
Shift is close between the two but Di2 does allow me to change up the cassette rapidly when going uphill out of the saddle at full effort (when I realise I’m in the wrong gear). That isn’t something I’d even attempt on mechanical (I wouldn’t be able to even operate the lever fully when out of the saddle). Front shift is miles cleaner, and no need to trim is something I totally take for granted and irritates me on mechanical when I go back. The semi synchro shift on Di2 is a really nice touch, dropping up or down the cassette on a front shift as appropriate to minimise the impact. It’s so seamless I only ride in that mode.
I appreciate there is a massive cost disparity and 105 mechanical is damn good for how little it costs, but the Di2 bike is much less maintenance, no cable stretching, and works perfectly every single time.
I’ve gone back from Di2
I’ve gone back from Di2 Ultegra to mixed 105/Tiagra groups on both my bikes. Both built and set up by me and I’m very happy with the shift performance. Way back up the comments I said that Di2 was easier to setup for the home mechanic but having done two mechanical shifting bikes now I’m not so sure. Maybe I’ve been lucky but I’ve had no issues setting up the front mechs – 105 on one bike, Tiagra 4700 on the other. By doing it I now completely get the way that mechanical shifting works and in particular the importance of good barrel adjusters, the correct ferrules, and clean runs. Quite satisfying mastering something that a lot of people see as a black art and it also means I’m far less scared about tinkering with the shift to get it absolutely perfect.
If you’re having trouble setting up a Shimano front mech just get the official Shimano Dealer manual. The steps are different to the various online guides from the likes of Park & Art’s Cyclery but if you follow them you’ll get your mech in the ballpark and can then tune it with the barrel adjuster. Pay close attention to the trim positions in particular, as the non-Shimano guides don’t usually cover this and can lead you astray.
Having set up both there is now very little difference in shift performance between Tiagra & 105. Where 105 wins is lightness of chainset and braking performance. Likewise Ultegra – lighter components and only slightly better shifting at the rear, particularly now that the low profile front mech has appeared at 105 level.
It’s not that we should use,
It’s not that we should use, run electronic shifters, it’s the ruddy exorbitant sky high prices thatare demanded for electronic shifting. Bring the end costs down dramatically and more would be able to afford threat up.
As it stands at present, their costs are Looney Tunes.
It’s not that we should use,
It’s not that we should use, run electronic shifters, it’s the ruddy exorbitant sky high prices that are demanded for electronic shifting. Bring the end costs down dramatically and more would be able to afford threat up.
As it stands at present, their costs are Looney Tunes.
It’s not that we should use,
It’s not that we should use, run electronic shifters, it’s the ruddy exorbitant sky high prices that are demanded for electronic shifting. Bring the end costs down dramatically and more would be able to afford threat up.
As it stands at present, their costs are Looney Tunes.
It’s not that we should use,
It’s not that we should use, run electronic shifters, it’s the ruddy exorbitant sky high prices that are demanded for electronic shifting. Bring the end costs down dramatically and more would be able to afford threat up.
As it stands at present, their costs are Looney Tunes.
I’m a Campag EPS user. I love
I’m a Campag EPS user. I love EPS, it just works, and it’s fun to use. Entry cost was a bit more than mid-range mechanical but I took advantage of sales, ebay, s/h etc. My EPS kit has been very reliable, it’s been drenched with rain on a few occasions to no ill-effect. The mechs are solidly built, the cables are well sealed, the shifting is impeccable. I can see why people would wish the parts to be cheaper but they are really well made.
Went from two years with Di2
Went from two years with Di2 back to mech. One too many failures on Di2 that required ridiculously expensive diagnosing, servicing and parts and the bike off the road for a week at a time… none of which is possible if you’re anywhere away from a big city when abroad. If a mech cable breaks I take out the cranks, thread a new wire through and I’m back on the road in 20mins. The Dura Ace 9100 mechanical is so damn good, I don’t miss it one bit. I won’t be going back to Di2 on my main bike unless I’m racing.
No chain rub no matter what!
No chain rub no matter what! I’m sold?
How much, need to be cheaper for me to convert.
Also, won’t the front mech be obsolete soon!?
tugglesthegreat wrote:
No
tugglesthegreat wrote:
I have zero chain rub in any combination on my mechanical 9100. No idea if I’ve done something special but that’s how it us.
part_robot wrote:
Ditto – on both Tiagra and 105 setups. Just need to remember to use the trim function properly. Which works perfectly if you set the mech up following the Shimano DM and have a barrel adjuster in the front mech cable
How are people finding etap
How are people finding etap from a reliability point of view?
I’m looking at building up a new bike and I really fancy trying etap on it but don’t fancy getting something that’s likely to let me down either miles away from home or on an early morning commute!
I don’t see the benefits. No
I don’t see the benefits. No chain rub? Just last week I didn’t need a front mech.
I read road.cc every week and I’m on my third groupset this year from following their recommendations.
I just like the little
I just like the little ‘whirrr’ sound it makes.. makes me think of Transformers…. Autobots, change gear!
peted76 wrote:
This is the primary reason for me.
I just think Di2 is a bit of luxury – it’s like having a butler change your gears for you.
I’m sure all the new upto
I’m sure all the new upto date bike tech is an improvement, however it’s a personal choice. Each to his/her own. If you area racer then fine. If you are a top racer then you don’t have to buy any of it as bikes are provided by your team.
It keeps the bike industry going forward. They have to make profits and what better way is there to sell sophisticated tech at high prices and large profit margins to Joe public. Just my take on all of this.
I’m sure all the new upto
I’m sure all the new upto date bike tech is an improvement, however it’s a personal choice. Each to his/her own. If you area racer then fine. If you are a top racer then you don’t have to buy any of it as bikes are provided by your team.
It keeps the bike industry going forward. They have to make profits and what better way is there to sell sophisticated tech at high prices and large profit margins to Joe public. Just my take on all of this.
I’m definitely in the “once
I’m definitely in the “once you go Di2 you never go back” camp for so many reasons, ease of use, no cable stretch (riding bike for 2 years – NO adjustments ever ahd to be made), battery life now is superb (3 charges in 2 years at 10k km per year). However, I’m lucky enough to be able to afford a Di2 bike but as with most tech the cost will come down, electronic shifting will eventually be on lower spec bikes.
I’ve just moved from Di2 back
I’ve just moved from Di2 back to mechanical, basically becuase i didn’t trust the electronic system. i worried that if i transported my bike to an event that i’d get there & the battery could have drained in the back of the car, or been damaged on the bike rack, so i stopped using the bike.
I also couldn’t really tell much difference and not think the Di2 version is a bit of a gimic to get the unwary to upgrade & spend more money.
Would like to try the wireless version though, but i maight wait a bit for it to settle down & reduce in price.
This is all well and good
This is all well and good until it goes wrong and you get stuck in 11t and can’t shift any more. Not all of us have the legs of Rigoberto Uran!
I did like the ‘less maintenance’ point in the article lol – yeah that’s because none of us can tinker with these systems to fix them when they go wrong
700c wrote:
If the battery runs out on EPS, I believe you can decouple the rear mech and just put the chain on whatever cog you want (Ride Back Home) – don’t know Di2 has something similar, but if it barfed due to battery drain rather than a fault then it looks like you would have had to ignore an enormous amount of warnings and opportunities to select a suitable gear.
Di2 could definitely do with
Di2 could definitely do with a manual override for when the system breaks/runs out of juice.
I managed to trash my Di2 by trapping the left shifter cable in the stem clamp and tightening up before noticing. For some reason (short circuit?) it appeared to damage the battery, so after I’d replaced the squished cable, the battery wasn’t able to keep charge for more than 2 days. Obviously, the first time that I noticed this was on a Monday morning when the whole system was completely dead, so I had to get around on my newly converted single speed.
Shame on you Roadcc for
Shame on you Roadcc for pushing this shit. It isn’t free, so any advantages of an electronic system are negated BY THE COST! At least a grand. I could buy a whole road bike and whole mtb for that which would give years of perfectly good service. I could go secondhand and buy a fantastic road bike and fantastic mtb for that. Or I could just ride more sensibly and get fitter on the bikes I have. Stop pushing these micro benefits so ex golfers have something more to brag about…
Tried the first iteration of
Tried the first iteration of Ultegra di2. Once I got over the initial “shiny new toy” feeling, I found that I really didn’t like it. Mechanical Chorus feels better to me. Electronic shifting is not for everyone.
To follow up on my post of 2
To follow up on my post of 2 years ago, my Di2 is still operating flawlessly. I still don’t need it, but I still appreciate it on every ride.
Not that I have the slightest desire to change my bike, but if I did for some reason have to buy another top end transmission, and certainly if I was building the bike, then I would go wireless.
Main benefit to me is the shear effortlessness of changing gear, especially towards the end of a ride when my hands are cold and tired.
Only criticism would be that the battery must be unnecessarily large and therefore heavier than it needs to be as I only have to charge it every 1000 miles or so.
Continue to be perfectly
Continue to be perfectly happy with mechanical shifting on the 5 bikes in the family. Admittedly one is a SRAM hub gear that I wouldn’t have a clue about how to adjust (I’m guessing it’s just tweaking on the cable tension like any other system). Taught my son how to use the barrel adjuster to get his rear shifting working, that was a pretty cool moment. There’s something very rewarding about fine-tuning a precise mechanical system that appears to be highly complicated.
Still tempted by eTap, but they need to bring it down to Rival level before I’ll seriously consider it.
Switched to Etap recently
Switched to Etap recently when I replaced my old mechanical worn out groupset. It’s utterly brilliant. A doddle to set up, shifts perfectly, no chain rub in any gear, no missed shifts, no cable stretch, silent and on the whole, just lovely.
Do I really need it? No. Would I take it back and go back to mechanical? Hell no! Converted to Electronic? Yes. However, if I wasn’t fortunate enought to be able to have it, would I feel I was losing out by sticking with mechanical? Nope.
Have Etap on one bike, SRAM
Have Etap on one bike, SRAM mechanical (bits of Red/Force/RIval) on other bikes in the stable.
I like Etap, have had no problems with it at all in 2+ years of use and probably will stick with it on “best” bike in future. But not sure difference in use to well maintained high end SRAM (and I assume Shimano) mechanical is all that much. So IMO you spend a lot of cash for not a lot of performance benefit. Doesn’t mean you shouldn’t do it if you want to spend your cash in that way but the difference is pretty marginal (which is probably to be expected).
Reluctant to shift (excuse the pun) to more economical Shimano stuff because, well, wires. Also, I’ve never used Shimano (used Campag forever until I switched to SRAM about a decade ago) and on the few occasions I have ridden a Di2 equipped Shimano bike I estimate I have shifted in the wrong direction approx. 40% of the time. I imagine you get used to it after a while.
Specifically on Etap: would be ideal if they brought out a slightly cheaper Force version of etap, a la Ultegra Di2. Love the blips (remote shifters) on the tops/under bar tape for shifting when climbing/on dodgy surfaces when you are on tops. Another benefit to Etap is ease of removing rear mech for travel (reduces risk of mech hanger getting bent).
If you’re paying for the
If you’re paying for the upgrade Road.cc they I’ll take it.
Otherwise, way too expensive.
If you’re paying for the
If you’re paying for the upgrade Road.cc then I’ll take it.
Otherwise, it is still way too expensive.
Change to wireless because I
Change to wireless because I just must have another thing that needs charging, I can’t fix myself and will stop working after you upgrade the software about 2 months after the warranty runs out.
Simplify yo’ life, keep cables.
up down flappy paddles and a
up down flappy paddles and a 3×10, 4×9, 5×5 or whatever makes the most sense from a weight perspective.
One of fastest riders in my
One of fastest riders in my club uses a mechanical 8 speed cassette, downtube shifters, ally rims, no computer and he is over 60. I would like to go as well as him!
One of fastest riders in my
One of fastest riders in my club uses a mechanical 8 speed cassette, downtube shifters, ally rims, no computer and he is over 60. I would like to go as well as him!
One of fastest riders in my
One of fastest riders in my club uses a mechanical 8 speed cassette, downtube shifters, ally rims, no computer and he is over 60. I would like to go as well as him!
Electronic has minimal
Electronic has minimal maintenance? hmmm, will maybe that’s because the home mechanic doesn’t know how to fix it? What’s considered minimal? battery has to be replaced every 2 to 3 years? And some people only got a year out one; and the battery costs around $120, lets compare that to mechanical, what gets replaced with those? the cables, how often, some do it every season but mine typically lasts 5 to 8 years, how much does cable cost? $25 for top of the line cables. Firmware upgrades needed on electronics not on mechanical, and a lot of people get upgrade issues after they did it. Mechanical can go out of adjustment and supposedly electronic won’t but I heard that did happen a lot of times in the TdF, and , but regardless I’ve have a lot of mechanical derailleur systems and they rarely go out of adjustment. What else does maintenance mean? Some say the gears and chains don’t wear out, that’s not true, they wear out the same and have to be replaced. What about maintaining the battery charge? there is no need for that with mechanical. And of course the battery won’t work at sub freezing temps.
Shifting under load? I hear this all the time which strikes me as odd because I use to ride mountains of So California and found a friction derailleur back in the day called Suntour Superbe Tech that could shift under massive load, while it did sounded like something broke because it would shift with a bang under load when it shifted it was simply shifting fast and nothing broke, I also had mid and high end SIS that would do the same thing, my most modern 105 briftor system does as well as it should since it’s nothing but an SIS system with the shifters moved to the brake levers.
The only real advantage that I found significant with electronic shifting is how fast the front derailleur shifts, no mechanical system ever worked well for the front, but now that may be negated with manufactures slowly doing away with the front derailluer.
Cost? of course the electronic is going to be more expensive but who cares? if you can afford it then it doesn’t matter.
Chris Boardman described
Chris Boardman described electronic shifting as ‘a solution looking for a problem’ and I’m inclined to agree. Face it, most of the advantages of electronic shifting make very little or no difference to the actual speed of most people’s bike rides. Virtually all the performance advantages of electronic shifting will only make a difference to closely matched professionals who might be looking for fractions of a second in races, the results of which can be the difference between gaining or losing next year’s contract and income. For these men and women – who, crucially, don’t own their bikes – there is no cost to consider. When the stuff breaks they give it back or throw it away.
I think if we’re honest, the only thing most people like about electronic shifting isn’t the fact that it could mean a fraction of a second career-defining stage win in the Giro, (or even the the local amateur club crit), but that it offers lots of extra, hugely expensive and mostly superfluous gadgets and features. Most of these we will never properly benefit from and some of us, as is the way of these things, may even never get to work properly anyway.
I think if you’re into cycling for the long term, electronic transmissions could prove even more expensive than they first appear. For me, and probably many others on this forum, a key feature of running several bikes over many years (three decades in my case) is the building and rebuilding of machines and the mixing, maintaining and re-using of parts. For me this is an important part of owning, maintaining and riding and racing bicycles. It’s efficient and hugely satisfying.
For tiny and mostly irrelevent gains, I see the development of electronic transmissions as a threat to cycling, not a benefit, with its emphasis on non-user-seviceable parts and built-in obsolesence and with servicing and repairs and their attendant costs entirely in the control of the manufacturers.
Daddylonglegs wrote:
I agree with some of that. I certainly don’t see any performance benefit with electronic shifting except for the few times that ordinary shifting doesn’t work as well as it should (e.g. cable stretch; not adjusted correctly etc). The main benefit, as I see it, is it makes riding a little bit more fun (transformer noises!).
The prices will undoubtedly come down as other manufacturers get involved and provide a bit of competition and as the tech trickles down into cheaper groupsets. To be honest, I don’t see the proprietary tech as being too much of an issue apart from cost of parts as it’s quite easy to replace cables/batteries/shifters as needed without having to go to a shop. I’ve been quite happily performing firmware upgrades just using the usb interface/charger that you get with a Di2 system without having to pay £150 for the diagnostic thingamijig. As you can easily add a bluetooth/ANT interface, it doesn’t really make much difference that the wire protocols aren’t open.
I really can’t see standard shifters going away anytime soon due to the sheer number of existing bikes and the cheapness of modern manufacturing.
Daddylonglegs wrote:
On a recent cycling trip our
On a recent cycling trip our bikes where stored in a hotel storage room. My friends bike was moved slightly by the hotel personel, so that the DI2 shifting lever was slightly pushed on during the night. No shifting possible the next day, battery completely drained. Best day of the trip ruined. Big advantage.
BartNotSimpson wrote:
That’s not the shifters fault though. Poor shifter brutally tortured like that all night.
The simplicity of mechanical will always win in certain situations. For me DI2 has been a delight. I won’t cry about not having electric shifting on future bikes, but it’s certainly something I prefer.
Can’t see how that would
Can’t see how that would happen, just tried it on my Ultegra Di2 and it shifts up one gear then when it senses the chain isn’t moving with it, it stops, it doesn’t go on all night trying to change gear! Sure your mate didn’t just forget to charge their battery and made up a cunning excuse?!
I would not even be
I would not even be considering electronic shifting if I could get more than a year out of the rear shift cable (with its sneaky hidden destruction inside the shift lever assy) and the front derailleur follies drama. Maybe I could handle one or the other, but dealing with both issues has pretty much pushed me over the edge into to going electronic and being done with it.
I’ve only read two pages of
I’ve only read two pages of comments, so it may have been said. My Di2 sends info to my head unit to tell me what gear I’m in. I’m no pro and sometimes I lose track, and cycling in the steep Spanish mountains its good to know if you need to “man up” or if you have another cog left.
I also, ultimate sin of sins, use the function that shifts my rear two up or two down when I move the front, it saves me a few “clicks”.
muppetkeeper wrote:
Is it beyond the skill of the ‘modern’ cyclist to simply have a look down to see where your chain lies/how many sprockets you have left in hand? I mean, even Chris Froome could do that whilst on a steep climb never mind a non competitive type, and in any case how is that going to help you, you can’t magically produce a lower or higher gear can you, so what if you know what gear you are in and have only one sprocket left, how is that going to actually change anything if you don’t know?
Your statement makes zero sense whatsoever, either you can cycle up the hill in the lowest gear you have or you can’t, you don’t run out of gears nor have to ‘man up(whatever the hell that means), you simply haven’t fitted a low enough gear for your ability/difficulty of terrain or you have to push harder to keep going than you might have expected to.
knowing where you are on the sprockets is immaterial to your ability to get up a slope or not.
BehindTheBikesheds wrote:
Personally, I love my SC-MT800 display for showing what gear I’m in. It’s most useful for knowing when the synchro-shift is about to change your front chainring, though that’s probably Di2 creating and solving its own problem.
Having tried Di2, I can see
Having tried Di2, I can see why it is popular and why it is to be desired..
To me personally, however, a bike that needs charging in order to fully function somehow misses the point of what a bicycle is 😉 to me it is a mode of transport, a device that enables you to get from point A to point B completely independently, and with no additional energy input other that that produced by your own body! It is fully independent! Each to their own though 😉 (and yes, I’m aware that lights fall into rechargeable territory, however a bike can operate without them, plus lights can be connected to dynamos which follows the same ethos)
Having tried Di2, I can see
Having tried Di2, I can see why it is popular and why it is to be desired..
To me personally, however, a bike that needs charging in order to fully function somehow misses the point of what a bicycle is 😉 to me it is a mode of transport, a device that enables you to get from point A to point B completely independently, and with no additional energy input other that that produced by your own body! It is fully independent! Each to their own though 😉 (and yes, I’m aware that lights fall into rechargeable territory, however a bike can operate without them, plus lights can be connected to dynamos which follows the same ethos)
paradyzer wrote:
The rider would also typically need to be recharged between long rides.
Its all progression, and
Its all progression, and business. How many of us would love to go back to lever shifting over two sprockets and cane rims???
road.cc wrote:
Wow, just like all my Campag mechanical groupsets. Amazing.
“With complete electronic
“With complete electronic-shift bikes costing from around £2,400(link is external), should you be thinking about making the move?”
I think the price excludes me from answering that question.
.. there’s only one reason
.. there’s only one reason people need to move to electric shifting..
When the front derailler moves it sounds like your bike is from Cybertron.
‘VOOOOO’ – never gets old.
You can’t much more obviously
You can’t much more obviously advertorial than this! I admit that my Sora 9-speed shifting was becoming a little hesitant after almost 2 1/2 years with no maintenance other than scraping off the grime and mud, and replacing the 2 inners. Even I was amazed how good shifting became after I just pulled off the outers over the inners (as far as the inline adjusters) and replaced them with new generic outers filled with oil. This doesn’t take long because they’re in one piece and held on frame flanges with zip-ties- you just cut to the same length, file the ends, thread the new outers through the ties and you’re done. I should have done it after 18 months. Therefore, similarly minded-cheapskates on bikes with one-piece outers and inline-adjusters, forget electronic!
I’ve got two bikes with Di2,
I’ve got two bikes with Di2, and recently resurrected an old 2011 Felt F5, as a “daily beater”. External cabling, rim brakes, basic tyre clearance, alloy wheels. It’s resolutely old school, and it’s got a mechanical groupset. It’s the same weight as the other bikes (both of which cost significantly more) it’s equally as fast, but the biggest revelation for me has been that every single time I change gear, it puts a massive smile on my face. I like having Di2, and agree with every one of the advantages listed in this article, but a properly maintained, well functioning mechanical groupset is a thing of real beauty. There’s something magical about it.
Reason 8 – If you have
Reason 8 – If you have limited strength in your fingers due to arthritis or similar.
I’m in the same boat as
I’m in the same boat as others that ask why! The cost alone is enough to turn me off, not to mention when something goes wrong the cost to repair will be; plus technical issues can be difficult to diagnose and repair, some shops just give up and tell you that you need a new derailleur. I also don’t want to be reliant on batteries to make the bike operate, we talk about going green yet we don’t care if we use lithium batteries that are stripped mined and raping African countries of the landscape just so us westerners can pat ourselves on the back for having the latest greatest technology while not caring what is going on to get that technology; we don’t care if we have to use electricity to charge those batteries adding to the climate change problem. Those batteries only last an average of 3 years, which then will cost around $80 to replace, that’s a lot of expensive maintenance on a bike that is unnecessary.
No thank you!
My battery on a bike that is
My battery on a bike that is often ridden 200 miles a week still seem to have the same life as new… 5 years ago.
Di2 seems to be very reliable. About the only issue I have seen is the front mech “failing” which turns out to be a flat battery and it starts working. Occasionally you get detached cables due to a knock (often poor fitting in the first place). The only trouble I’ve had so far is worn out jockey wheels – which is not an additional expense for Di2, and gear alignment problems, which turned out to be the freehub coming loose, again not Di2. I’ve lost count of the number of riders who have had to abandon rides due to failed gear cables in the same time I’ve had my Di2.
My general point is that people find cable gears far more difficult to diagnose and repair than Di2.
IanMSpencer wrote:
I’ve had a couple of Di2 batteries break, although one of them might have been my fault as I’d trapped and damaged the cable when fettling with my handlebars.
Quote:
I knew you loved bikes but…….
AlsoSomniloquism wrote:
Don’t kink-shame me
IanMSpencer wrote:
I used to race, have been riding for over 40 years, and now I do touring, and in all that time I’ve only known one person who had a cable failure on a ride, so I don’t know where you got all that from, other than your imagination! Even in the TDF they don’t have cable failures, in fact they have been experiencing more problems with Di2 than they did with cables.
Electronic shifting does allow a rider to now shift through multiple gears whereas the newer index mechanicals you cannot…EXCEPT, back in the day of friction shifting, and lever action index shifting you could shift through multiple gears, that only stopped when they decided to put the shifter in the brake lever; so really shifting through multiple gears is not a new thing exclusive to electronic shifting.
I too have been riding
I too have been riding regularly, a few times a week, for well over 40 years, nearer to 50 now, including some racing, solo, with friends, and in clubs, must have done going on for a million miles I would have thought, and have had the same experience as Froze. Gear cable failures are extremely rare in my experience. I remember one a mate had about 15 years ago, it turned out to be just a loose anchor bolt, diagnosed and fixed in about 5 minutes. I don’t remember any others. As a bike shop owner, with customer repairs, as I remember, gear cables would fail usually when they were many years old, never lubricated, probably even left outdoors in all weathers, so would either seize in the outer or rust badly and break, near the nipple. Not something that happens with ‘proper cyclists’ who maintain their bikes. So how on earth is someone able to say ‘I’ve lost count of the number of riders who have had to abandon rides due to failed gear cables in the same time as I’ve had my Di2’?? How long is that, 4-5 years? ‘Lost count’? Riders having to abandon rides for any kind of non-repairable issue is rare enough, let alone this one isssue. Just saying…
Bikeylikey wrote:
Well, despite your 50 years riding experience and your somewhat snooty attitude to “proper cyclists” who maintain their bikes, in my experience, the issue of cable breakage specifically to Shimano 10 & 11 speed road shifters is fairly prevalent. On one occasion mid ride, I was able to get back home on the smallest cog on the cassette, on another occasion I caught it in time once the gear change started to feel a bit baggy. In these scenarios, the cable frays and eventually snaps inside the shifter itself.
Photo shows a frayed cable on a bike that had done less than 4000km from new and I would consider to be well maintained.
So my own lived experience in the last 7 years of running Di2:
Di2 failures: 0
Cable failures: 2
To balance the argument, I’ve
To add another data point, I’ve also had a Shimano 10-speed gear cable fray and snap in the brifter. I’d estimate the inner cable was about 18 months old when it broke.
I agree the stuff is not
I agree the stuff is not cheap but I’ve had my eps system 6 years and it has never needed adjusting, the battery has never run out and whole setup has always been a pleasure to use. Not the least bit of bother.
I think before you complain about lithium batteries to operate derailleurs you should campaign against the vast machine tool industry and their lithium battery based products. Another product line being transferred to lithium batteries that we really don’t need are vacuum cleaners. Electric derailleurs pales into insignificance compared to that lot.
Dingaling wrote:
I agree with what you say about the machine tool and vacuum cleaner industries, but we are not discussing them here, it’s a cycling site and we happen to be talking about electric derailleurs. Froze might well be objecting to the issues you mention, or would be if this were a relevant site. Also, the fact that the tool and vacuum industries are worse doesn’t make the smaller electric industries all ok. What Froze says is pertinent.