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I’ve had my Synapse Neo 2 up
I’ve had my Synapse Neo 2 up to just under 48mph, on a long, straight, steep down hill.
Going up the same hill, it was about 8mph.Assistance wise ….well, that cuts out at 15.5mph, so theoretically, once the assistance cuts out, it’ll go as fast as your little legs* will carry you.
* which in my case, isn’t much faster than the assistance cut out due to only having one leg that works properly.
I have 2 sets of wheels –
I have 2 sets of wheels – tubeless for gravel and traditional for commute.
Essentially, the tubeless are on for one ride a week; my bike was broken in February and they spent the whole month in an unheated metal shed (in central Scotland) with no detrimental effects.The only thing I have happened in use, was this weekend when a puncture had made the tyre go ‘wallowing’ soft; the sealant had clogged the valve sufficiently to blow the ‘o’ ring from my CO2 cannister injector (makes a big bang, BTW), and rendered the injector useless (‘o’ Ring is interruptance fit, and won’t go back in the detent ring without the correct tooling).
I keep meaning to take my
I keep meaning to take my camera out with me.
Problem is though, cycling and stills photography are diametrically opposed.
The other problem is carrying kit; I don’t like cycling wearing a rucksack, and there’s not enough padding on a pannier bag.
One day I’ll crack how I’m going to do it …In the end, because this wasn
In the end, because this wasn’t a competitive event, the spectator seating was shut off, so I could only shoot from the competitors area in the middle of the track.
It also meant that I could get on to the track by the landing area (or whatever you call it) and so the 24-105 at f4 and Iso 800 was good enough for the job.I struggled with panning when I shot touring cars a few years back, and thought that the slower speeds would make it easier … that was not the case.
My panning sucks, and something that I need to practice, as empty seating gives really good blurr lines.I have a Canon 7d MkII.
I have a Canon 7d MkII.
Sounds like you might be describing a mirrorless trait, and one that my older camera doesn’t have.Magic, thanks for your reply
Magic, thanks for your reply Mark.I’ve not seriously picked up the camera since a driver faulted collision in 2018 left me with some mobility issues; before then I primarily shot models on location.
Had a go a motor sports at Knockhill and found it somewhat challenging… not the photography, but the scum of trying to get in the best places …I did shoot a local CX race last year, however as it was outside, it was more in my comfort zone.
I’ve managed to borrow an F2 135mm prime which gives me a bit more length
Hopefully the lighting will be good enough inside the Velodrome that I can be at f4 or so … I’ll find out in a couple of hours
Battery life.
Battery life.
GPS eats batteries – its one of the reasons the GPS version of Go-Pro has a shockingly poor battery life.
The GPS inside your watch isn’t active all the time; it’s only really active when you start an activity. Then watch the battery life drop …You can get around the
You can get around the browser API issue with a small RegEdit in Windows (Mac users you’ll have to google it yourself)
It does work … (as with all RegEdit stuff, back up your Registry *Before* you muck around in there …
Garmin’s Virb Edit has
Garmin’s Virb Edit has problems working with the new versions of Chrome.
From what I can find, the last release of the Virb Edit by Garmin was Version 5.4.3, realeased 26/12/2018 and has not been updated since.According to this forum – https://forums.garmin.com/apps-software/mac-windows-software/f/virb-edit-windows/294764/script-error-on-that-page—virb-edit—api-issues – the software is no longer supported
It’s still an excellent unit,
It’s still an excellent unit, and easily the best available… however its not without fault albeit with the software side of things.I’ve had a Fly12CE for about 3 years and counting.
One of the things about the CE that I particularly liked was that – unlike the Gen 2 Fly 6 that I also have – there is no frame overlap between each segment.
This means you can drop your entire ride on to something like ffmpeg and it would join the segments to form one seamless video, and that could be then dropped in to Dashaware or Garmin Virb Editor so you could add the gpx data in one foul swoop.
However…
The software has changed, and there now seems to be approximately 1 second of overlap between each segment… and this seems to fluctuate slightly by a few frames either side. So it now behaves in the same manner that the Fly6 does.
Fine if you only want one or two segments – just load it up in you video editor and manually align … not a big deal.
Unless you have a full 3 hour ride – which is 18 10min segments.
Ffmpeg would join these in maybe 15mins – 30mins at the most. It now takes hours to align 18 segments manually, and render the video.Another problem is that the 12 Sport appears to use the h.265 codec … so in order to add metrix data from gpx, you have to convert from h.265 to h.264 … which means that when you do your render of the stiched segments, you have to save it, unedited, using h.265 … rending is normally a 1:1 process, so a 3 hour ride will take about 3 hours to render.
This is on top of the at least 1 hour spent stitching segments together.You then have to put it through your metrix software – which is why you can’t edit the video in the stiching process … so again your looking at around 3 hours to render … so that’s now 7 hours to do something that before would take about 3.15hours before.
Then … you have to load it in to your video editing software to add titles, music, trim out the stops etc … and render it again. Say you’ve took out 15mins of junk … so another 2.45 on top of the 7 hours you’ve already spent …
So nearly 10 hours to do something that used to take 4 or 5.Oh … and don’t think that they have sorted the frame rate issue between the 6 and the 12 as they haven’t. You still cannot synchronise full segments shot on the 6 and 12 …
Despite the software issue – that’s only really an issue if like me you want to publish a full ride – I still have absolutely no hesitation in recommending the Cycliq cameras.
If they could drop the 1/8th turn mount and go to a 1/4 turn, that would be fantastic too …
What are doing with it to
What are doing with it to scratch the lens?I’m just running mine in now
I’m just running mine in now …
They need a lot more effort than you would expect … either that or I really have lost condition really quickly.Crossing piles of icy snow at angles other than 90deg are a bit sketchy – but a lot less so than not having them on.
Main thing I’ve found (so far) is not being over cocky with them
Mines on the right … but I
Mines on the right … but I don’t have a side stand ?
I’d put it on the right as that’s the side with a fully functioning leg, and the side I push off withSplitting the load – One of
Splitting the load – One of my panniers does convert in to rucksack, so I should be able to carry two plus use my walking stick.I was thinking of stuffing the second pannier with a warm coat and maybe a spare pair of trousers and leaving it on the bike while at work (secure underground carpark with no public access)
Secret_squirrel wrote:
But they start whiffing around month 7 😉
Walking on their own around month 8
