Forum Replies Created
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Replies
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OP: some good advice above,
OP: some good advice above, some downright wrong. From extensive personal experience, the Yokozuna Reaction cables last years, remain friction-free, and offer damn-close-to hydraulic levels of performance. I recently descended a 1-in-4 Scottish road with multiple switchbacks, at speed, and had one finger on each lever, with no issues slowing down.
http://road.cc/content/review/205547-yokozuna-reaction-brake-cable-system
Head has always been adjusted by LBS so torque wrenches all aroundThis will depend on how well you know the mechanic who worked on your bike, otherwise you’re guessing/hoping.
GOD NO NO NO NO NO
GOD NO NO NO NO NO
Never, ever set up non-tubeless tyres as tubeless. You are almost guaranteed to suffer catastrophic, instant loss of pressure / tyre coming of fthe rim, most likely in a hard corner, at speed.
MTB tyres are a different case.
jterrier wrote:
The performance line tires from schwalbe are not tubeless. They are the mid range models.A year ago I raised the issue that bike brands were shipping OEM-only versions of Schwalbe tubeless models that were *not* tubeless, on bikes selling with tubeless-ready rims. This to my mind was reckless. I imagine many customers thought they were tubeless ( I did, and it took a LOT of research to confirm they weren’t). I bet many pulled out the tubes and added sealant. And risk a catastrophic depressurisation.
@BrokenBootneck:
@BrokenBootneck:
http://road.cc/content/review/183575-genuine-innovations-tubeless-tire-repair-kit
I’ve just pulled the pictured set of One’s out of the loft to re-visit a tubeless wheelset review. The three or four repairs made last year are holding strong. I cannot recommend this repair kit highly enough.
I know I will get shouted at but this is yet another story that makes me so glad I haven’t yet taken the plunge with tubeless. I’m convinced the technology is not yet ready for the market and I’m hanging on for some huge leap forward in tyre sealing.
No shouting here mate 🙂
Seriously, tubeless nowadays mostly just works. Buy a tubeless wheelset and you avoid all sealing issues. tubeless tyres are now pretty much the same weight as their tubed siblings. Performance is provably better. Flats are pretty much a thing of the past, and major punctures either seal themselves or can be repaired in seconds using the awesome Slime Tubeless Repair Kit http://road.cc/content/review/183575-genuine-innovations-tubeless-tire-repair-kit
There’s no waiting for tubeless to be ‘ready for the market’. It’s here. It works.
…Rather than spare tubes, you could carry the genuine innovations plug kit… I’ve used it once and it works a treat (if far away from help/ a lift home… then a spare tube is still a good idea obviously…)
…
Yep. The GI kit is genius: http://road.cc/content/review/183575-genuine-innovations-tubeless-tire-repair-kit
All my repairs from way back then are still holding strong, now over a year on.
‘nothing’ – becasue I’ve Keto-adapted to burn through the ~40,000 calories of fat onboard instead of the measly ~2000 calories of glycogen
Not completely sure if serious, (is this even possible?) but interesting! How did you manage it?
It’s not ‘easy’: it takes 2-4 weeks of following a super low-carb diet – like under 50g net carbs per day and a LOT of fat. Like 70%+. Lost 3kg though.
Read this: “The Art and Science Of Low Carbohydrate Performance” by Volek & Phinney – the Go-To bible for Keto Cycling
Use MyFitnessPal app to track what you’re eating.
Drink LOTS of water
Get extra sodium – like a teaspoon of Boullion twice a day
Consider Magnesium / Potassium suppliments
This article: http://cyclingtips.com/2013/09/high-fat-low-carb-diets-the-effects-and-how-to-try-one/ shows this graph: yes, fat can power you as the majority source all the way up to 100% VO2Max.
‘nothing’ – becasue I’ve Keto
‘nothing’ – becasue I’ve Keto-adapted to burn through the ~40,000 calories of fat onboard instead of the measly ~2000 calories of glycogen
Did 110k on Saturday and came home not feeling hungry. Previously I would have need a lot of Cake mid-ride and would have stripped the kitchen bare of white bread, peanut butter and sweet yoghurts.
Off to do http://www.themightycorinthian.com on Saturday – 301km in the Lakes. Not a gel, bar or carbo drink in sight.
30-40k, there’s no way you
30-40k, there’s no way you need a dedicated GPs. Your phone can do that fine. I’ve used my phone for navigation over hundreds of km in on day, with a few recharges from the like of a Topeak Powerpack. If you turn off mobile data & WiFi, lower the screen brightness and only check at intersections (turn off lock screen to make this much quicker/safer) and a single charge on a new-ish phone will go 10+hrs.
Use an app like Viewranger to plan and then navigate your rides on the bike. You can get Openstreetmaps for free, or buy individual Topomaps for not much at all.
This is very typical for
This is very typical for machine-built wheels. It’s the over-twisted spokes settling themselves back into their natural orientation, and happens under load because as you tension one set of spokes due to torque from the hub, the opposing set loosens enough for the nipples to move in the rim.
Or words to that effect. I’m sure someone will be along shortly to correct my terminology.
Bottom line is it’s the wheel settling down, nothing to be alarmed about. Keep an eye on spoke tension / trueness over a while (which you should do anyway). And if you need to, make sure you back spokes off after tensioning.
Altenratley, if it’s really bugging you, you can stress-releave the wheel by doing this:
http://www.wheelfanatyk.com/blog/wheel-building-tip-no-4-how-to-pre-stress-your-wheel/
More Jobstian wisdom here:
“Shouldn’t really put spacers
“Shouldn’t really put spacers above the stem but the press review bikes from Cannondale usually do so don’t think that’s the problem”
er, you should always place one spacer above the stem*, because the steerer needs to protrude from the stem, then the spacer is needed so the top cap doesn’t pull down and contact the steerer, instead pulling down on the spacer->stem and then onto the bearing topcap. And so the steerer can’t be pinched by the stem clamp. Anything to not introduce fractures.
People who insist on cutting their steerers right down to the stem du jour aren’t thinking about ever a: changing stem or b: selling their bike. Which is OK, of course.
I acknowledge some folks use the top few mm of the stem as a spacer, to separate steerer from topcap. Done carefully, that’s OK – but you are loosing clamping area betwixt stem/steerer. Which especially for carbon is not good.
…and if it’s a carbon steerer, you should use paste. Best practice.
* this from p340, ‘Zinn and the art of road bike maintenance’. Trust Lennard, not Some Guys On Road.CC (including me)
OP, *anything* will be better
OP, *anything* will be better than the OEM wheels. I tested the Ride 5k last year, and liked it so much I purchased the bike. But at circa 2.3kg with cheese for bearings, the wheels have to go.
Into a skip, ideally.
I rode the Kinesis Discs last year too, during the Kinesis GF Ti Disc review. Really liked them.
Step 1: Make sure your brake
Step 1: Make sure your brake mounts are correctly faced. If they are out, you will *never* have correct caliper alignment and therefore braking. You will also eat through pads much quicker than is normal.
2. Make sure the system is correctly bled, the pistons are pushed all the way back, pads inserted correctly etc. – https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/file/HYRD_Final.pdf
3. Make sure the rotor is perfectly true – it sounds like they may not be. Invest in a rotor truing tool if you don’t have one.
4. Make sure the caliper is centered over the rotor (note 3 & 4 are a bit chicken & egg, you may have to get the caliper so-so, then true the rotor, then re-centre the caliper)
When setting up the cable housing/cable, make sure you read this:
https://www.trpbrakes.com/userfiles/file/TRP%20HYRD%20Technical%20Bulletin%20English%20Rev%20B.pdf
NOTE: The stock TRP rotors are a ‘wavy’ design where 50% of the rotor material effectively disappears from the pad contact area six times per revolution. My experience was that at low speeds this caused horrific brake judder on the front, as effectively the brakes were half releasing and re-grabbing the rotor 6 tmes per revolution. Replacing with some standard full-profile rotors fixed this immediately. Wavy rotors apparently clear mud, but having raced MTB for 20 years on non-wavy rotors I call BS on this.
Re compressionless housing: My Jagwire KEB-SL (Kevlar ‘compressionless’) HyRd setup doesn’t leave me wanting for power – Even with 28mm Tubeless (i.e. super-grippy) I can run out of friction betwixt tyre and road long before brake power becomes an issue. On my Ultegra levers, for the rear, lever throw isn’t an issue.
Schadenfreude time! I’m still using rim brakes and am having none of the abovementioned problems.People who understand disc brakes wouldn’t dream of relishing in your abject terror, upon discovering that white line on the T-intersection of that A-road is just a bit too close to let your rims dry off in time to stop.
