Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Oh for sure. Take that as a
Oh for sure. Take that as a given. 25, 50 and 75 all easy to plan.
Yes. Yes you can ride it
Yes. Yes you can ride it anywhere. In fact, if you let me know where you are going to lock it up, I have a ‘friend’ who will ‘keep an eye on it’ for you 😉Short answer: no. As others have said, it’s a 20 second job with a 5mm hex and a set of snippers to take £1,000 worth of bars/shifters/stem, no serial number, easy to shift on eBay. And no-one – NO-ONE – will stop a bike thief.
Taking my last Strava GPX
Taking my last Strava GPX file and putting it into Google Earth shows that the Strava height gain is underestimating by 14%. My Suunto T6 with barometric sensor gave more like 5% error on the Google Earth figure.The total altitude gain Strava estimates is a calculation based on map database of heights for a given Lat/Lon as recorded by the phone’s GPS. Some devices with barometric sensors use these in prefeence – like the Garmon 500 et al. https://strava.zendesk.com/entries/20965883-Elevation-for-Your-Activity
Google or Amazon: ‘Zefal
Google or Amazon: ‘Zefal Gizmo’. Bomb-proof. Sorted.
Said it before, sayin’ it
Said it before, sayin’ it again: http://Viewranger.comFree: Open Streetmaps or Open Cyclemaps. Save as an offline map, at whatever zoom level you want.
Paid: about £17 for all of Southern UK at 1:50,000
Just perfect.
Cheers
Mike
Strava support told me Apple
Strava support told me Apple only allow the app GPS data every three seconds – possibly to preserve battery life. So on very short segments it’s luck of the draw where you are when the combo of GPs accuracy plus the Strava start/finish ‘bubble’ coincide.Regarding GPS accuracy, there’s no fundamental difference between a Garmin or iPhone. Garmin may ping the GPS chipset more often, that’s all. Antenna placement might be an issue – if the phone’s vertical against a 70L sack of water and the Garmin’s out front on your bike, as you ride through an area of trees / steep hills, it might make a difference.
Personally, reviewing my tracks I’ve never seen a problem, using Strava, Viewranger or any other GPX-recording app.
Andrew, just be sure to tweak the bty settings on both VR and the phone in general. With the right settings you can go all day and still get calls/SMS.
stumps wrote:Being no racing
Being no racing freak and not into the lightest most aerodynamic gizmo’s i wear a small 5 ltr back pack. Fits everything plus a bit more.Somewhere a Velominati Faerie just died.
Even the V are all over the
Even the V are all over the shop on this one: http://www.velominati.com/general/reverence-lezyne-rule-31-sack/Personally, our entire family runs with the tiny £8 Continental under-seat bags – enough room for a tube & levers (included) plus a small tool. it velcros onto the rails pretty well and is hard to spot. eBay is your friend here.
Hi Simon
Riding in what I
Hi SimonRiding in what I believe to be the worst-possible bit of the UK for sharp crap on the roads, I don’t think cost or toughness really comes into it. I’ve had £50 Vredesteins and £12.50 Contis cut up the same, likewise my friend’s Marathon Plus above, reputedly the toughest tyre around. Basically flint will go through *anything*, I guess that’s why it was the Caveman’s Choice™ of kitchen impliments 🙂
I like E6000 because it can repair what would otherwise become fatal damage. Not letting water or more crap into a cut is a good thing. Water will wick along any exposed thread and swell, probably causing all sorts of bad things.
I agree 115 is way too high for most – I’m running 80 in my rear 28c with no flats for 300k and a very comfy bum.
Sorry @Sevenhills, but
Sorry @Sevenhills, but Superglue isn’t a great idea as it sets hard. Tyres are supposed to be supple, so it will inevitably fail.I started out using Superglue but then discovered an industrial adhesive called E6000. Costs about £5 for a tube on eBay, usually clear but can be black. Also branded as ShooGoo, but it’s the same stuff. It is the glue du jour for hobbyists who stick diamantes to stuff.
The key thing here is that it cures flexible after 24hrs. This winter here in flint-strewn North Hampshire I check and repair my tyres after every ride. Clean out the hole, dry, heat up next to a radiator to make nice and pliable. Fill hole using a toothpick or similar, working it in to remove air bubbles. Practice. It’s amazing stuff – I’ve repaired major cuts that have been fine 300km later. Yet to have a repair fail. Here’s a piccy of a Marathon Plus cut by a shark-tooth of flint, repaired basically indistinguishable from new.
If the cut has gone through the casing severing threads, that’s bad. The rubber does nothing structurally for the tyre, so using E6000 simply fills in the hole with more rubber. But if he casing is damaged you have compromised the tyre. Bin it, and buy a £12 Conti Ultra Sport. Excellent tyre, very hardwearing, at same time as being grippy.
Hi Andrew
I use an iPhone5
Hi AndrewI use an iPhone5 with 3G data and Wifi off, using Strava and Viewranger for maps/nav, some photos, and after 4hrs it’s down to ~70%. Meaning if you extrapolate it’s about 13hrs capacity. Like others, if I was going out all day I carry a tiny 1000MAh battery pack that gives a 2/3 charge, or I have a bigger 2000MAh iPhone case one that gives a full charge and then some – that’s over 24hrs riding!
Viewranger is hands-down the best route-building and nav app – it’s genius, especially the route builder online with ‘bike’ mode. You can buy the entire South of UK 1:50,000 OS maps for about £17. Other chunks of UK and overseas maps are at similar prices – I’m buying half of Belgium next week for my L-B-L adventures. Great for rambling too.
Once you’ve built a route in Viewranger it syncs with the phone, and when you click ‘follow’ you can get alerts coming up to turns, and alarms if you go off-track – use this feature all the time to keep on course when I have a rough idea but not 100% sure. If you have mobile data turned on your other half/friends can track you via the BuddyBeacon feature.
The fact that just about every SAR team in the UK uses Viewranger is testament to its value.
Certainly right now I can’t see the £350+ advantage of buying an 810 or even a 510. I’m sure they are lovely bits of kit, but if I had the cash I’d be buying better wheels/shoes etc before a Garmin.
Generally starting at £1500
Generally starting at £1500 and 3 months wait time, some en vogue builders over a years wait. Once-in-a-lifetime purchase for most I imagine.If it’s to replace a second car, a few years tax & insurance justifies it 😉
Yes – B’Twin Triban 3 51cm.
Yes – B’Twin Triban 3 51cm. £299 from Decathlon. The website doesn’t say that the smaller sizes come in 650c. Check out the reviews – pretty glowing. My wife’s had one for a month now, done maybe 150km now the weather’s nice and is very happy with it. It’s mostly 2300 with a bit of Sora, carbon fork, alu frame made in Romania, triple ring for the hills, and looks really nice in the flesh. For £299 you can’t go wrong. With a bit of handyman-age you can get 700c mudguards to fit nicely too – just put some SKS Raceblade Long’s on it, as well as some crosstop levers: http://twitpic.com/bzk9u9
How about this: We all
How about this: We all email/tweet/Facebook the team sponsors, saying unless they pull their teams from the races or organise a go-slow or some other farce, we won’t buy their stuff?We saw how effective consumer power was at killing the NoTW through advertiser backlash – how different is us blackmailing bike firms to do our bidding, for the good of the sport?
No teams, no race, no TV coverage, no UCI cash – right? Surely it would only take one or two farcical major events to bring the UCI to its knees? If it dug in it would only get worse.
Get a rim drive one? Loads
Get a rim drive one? Loads quieter, no tyre/mess issues. Had a Magura one a while back, worked very well once set up. Anyone know of any downside to them?