Forum Replies Created
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Depends on the quality of the
Depends on the quality of the weld. If you respect the welder, its no issue. The rest of the frame is welded together so I don’t see a particular problem. If its worth it you could always get it x-rayed by a local engineering company.
Boatsie wrote:
Thanks. Laughing aye. Spent car running costs to set up commuting via bicycles and heavy hub gumtree $130 bargain flys because so comfy that there is no chore. I wouldn’t have thought that prior to riding such. Plan now simple thanks to you guys with the derailleur hints. Assemble, ride, then later on just play with 2nd rim to attempt a no adjustment swap out. Really lazy dude, even minor adjustments I couldn’t be bothered with and terrain local has most cycling disciplines covered. If I can’t space identical I’ll keep spare in case of buckle or similar and ride to suit tread until such occurs. Hoping they share alignment.You should be good – I never had to tweak alignment when I swapped wheels. Worst case is that you’ll find a slow shift somewhere in the middle of the cassette and that’s very easily tuned by a quarter turn of the barrel adjuster. Most times it will ride perfectly. If its noisy in one cog simply shift to the next one. Its nearly always the middle cogs because you use them the most and the cable wears in the shifter.
With rear derailleurs the most important thing is to get the limit screws set as dropping a chain off the small cog will scrape the frame, and off the big cog will put it into the spokes and possibly damage the wheel. Limit screws should be a one-time only job as any slow/noisy shifting can be easily tuned with the barrel adjuster.
With all these adjustments make small changes and test. Half turns of a limit screw or barrel adjuster make big changes.
I’ve one rim braked bike and
I’ve one rim braked bike and one with discs. Both can easily chuck me over the handlebars if I squeeze hard enough and I don’t really notice any difference in effort. Modern dual pivot calipers are awesome, and I’d imagine the direct mount versions will be slightly better. If you do a lot of riding in crap weather and you value your rims then by all means go for discs and get a really nice wheelset but for most use cases rims do the job. If you’ve got the clearance long drop dual pivots can even work for light, dry gravelI think rim brakes will have
I think rim brakes will have a renaissance, like vinyl. Most people are better served by disc brakes but all that does is increase the appeal of rims to people who want to be different. See also custom steel and lugged frames. I could have easily bought a more flashy bike off the peg for what I’ve paid for the Layhams but where’s the fun in that? Or the soul? Then again, I still dabble in film photography so I’m probably a bit weird…If you want 11-speed (check
If you want 11-speed (check the wheels are compatible) then 105. If not, Tiagra 4700 will do the job. Worthwhile fitting 105 calipers as they’re Ultegra level and anecdotally much better than the Tiagra ones. I was looking at Di2 bikes on ebay and there are some bargains to be had (6870 complete bikes for £600!) so bear that in mind if you’re keeping it – cheaper to buy a frame and strip it than buy even discounted new Di2Rear derailleur adjustment
Rear derailleur adjustment appears to be complicated and scary but once you have done it a few times is actually very easy to get it shifting well – particularly on a 8-speed drivetrain where the “good enough” range is larger.
This is a good guide to start with:
https://www.artscyclery.com/learningcenter/shimanorearderailleurs.html
Some further tips:
Before you start you absolutely must have a workstand for this, or some way to have the bike rear wheel off the ground. This is not an adjustment you can do easily/well with the bike upside down.
1. Always set the high limit screw without the cable connected to the derailleur – you can tilt the derailleur back and use the lower jockey wheel to check the correct position (very slightly to the right of the cog when looking from the rear)
2. Before connecting the cable wind the barrel adjuster all the way in (as tight as possible, turn it clockwise) and then loosen it 1 full turn. This gives you more adjustability.
3. When connecting the cable make sure it is in the groove under the clamp nut – the angle is important – check the “Shimano Dealer Manual” for the derailleur
Just pull it hand tight and clamp it, it doesn’t need a huge amount of tension at this stage.
The first time you do one it will take you 1-2 hours. Work slowly, pay attention to the guide (particularly which ring you should be in up front). Be very careful when you come to do the Hi limit screw.
Yes, if the cassette is the
Yes, if the cassette is the same it will work. Not sure if a spacer is needed but if so you might even get one free from a local bike shop, they’re included with new wheels and not always required. I regularly swapped wheels with the same model cassette with no issues. At most it might sometimes need a quarter turn on the rear derailleur barrel adjuster. If you’re doing a lot of kms (particularly in wet weather) try and use the wheels evenly as you want the chain and cassettes to age equally. An old chain will wear a new cassette faster than a new chain, they need to grow old together to stay a happily married couple 🙂Something up with your discs?More like something up with my ears, think I’ve just got a much lower tolerance to squeeky brakes than everyone else. Rim brakes = silent and all the power I’ve ever needed, I don’t even seem to go through pads or rims all that fast.
Obviously just not riding far enough or fast enough!
SimonE, thanks I contributed to that thread but Kil0ran wasn’t thinking big enough, he only wanted 28mm tyres!
BTWin 100Ha, that’s genius, would never have found that. Strip the components and the scaffold tube fork, replace with a carbon/alloy Radon fork for £80 and build up with your groupset of choice, could be a neat wee bike for less than a thousand…
Or spend a little more for the Triban 500. Lovely matt red paintjob (or black if you prefer) and carbon fork. Don’t think you’ll get really big tyres plus guards in there though – clearance is a little tight around the chainstay bridge. Decathlon guy I spoke to said 28s + guards were a no go but I’m yet to be convinced.
I think your best bet is to hit eBay/Gumtree for something with cantis if you want 32mm+
e.g. Salsa La Cruz Ti
https://salsacycles.com/bikes/archive/la_cruz_ti_2011
alansmurphy wrote:
Really?
Wouldn’t that mean most riders with a lot of seatpost showing would be risking the same?
They’ve all got minimum insertion markings, and if you need to run a lot of post there’s always the option to run a 450mm post
Yup – New Forest hardpack
Yup – New Forest hardpack gravel access roads which are superb to ride on. Wide, grippy, well drained, even at this time of year. Only downside is the network isn’t joined up and not all of the roads are open access for cyclists. Bit of a campaing going on at the moment to change that.
Then north of me I’ve got the whole of Salisbury Plain to play on – flinty, chalky, wide-packed tracks mainly. There’s also a bunch of drover’s roads south and west of Salisbury meaning you can almost get to Shaftesbury without using tarmac roads.
This is why CyclingTips have
This is why CyclingTips have a “marketing claims” score in their reviews. Of course, the average reviews site has no way of checking any of these claims, and undoubtedly the manufacturer will have controlled the test parameters to flatter their product (e.g for aero a very narrow speed window, and a similarly narrow yaw angle range). Have a look at the Hunt wheels article from last week
My Fairlight Faran is utterly
My Fairlight Faran is utterly silent and very sure-footed but not exactly exciting. If I stripped the rack and guards off and ran lighter wheels it still wouldn’t be a a race bike, but that’s not its purpose. It’s supremely comfortable and adaptable and the perfect stablemate to a racier bike, which if I’d wanted another disc bike would have ended up being a Strael 2. Have a think about what the Synapse doesn’t do well and find a bike to plug that gap. I’ve had carbon bikes and just can’t get excited by them. I’ve now got a Bowman Layhams on the way and can’t wait to get it built up. A real head over heart purchase but that’s what happens when the bike is that pretty. It’ll get Tiagra with Hunt wheels and an 11-34 cassette which gets my middle aged carcass up most local hills.I regularly ride my partner’s
I regularly ride my partner’s eBike (folder, 20″ wheels) and I find it utterly terrifying but that’s mainly due to my ham-fisted handling skills. Steering damper would help I guess – until you ride a smaller wheeled bike you have no idea how much wrestling a 700c wheel needs.
Nice! Very jealous, it’ll be a couple of years before I can justify spending new bike money, but guards and big tyres are top of the brief.In the meantime I’l have to make do with the Rose. Quietly pleased with how neat the mudguards went on, benefits of chainstay mounted brakes I guess, and once they fail I can justify getting some PDWs which should be even neater.
I love a neat mudguard install, nice job. Now I just need to decide whether the Layhams will look better with silver or black guards. Long drop calipers from the parts bin are silver, rest of the group is black, and tyres will be tanwalls. I do wonder if I’m a bit weird in that I actually enjoy installing guards.
I’m hoping this bike is going to outlast me, or at least be something I can give my son whe he’s tall enough. Despite the brief I’m wondering if its going to see many winter miles, not sure I can bear to get it covered in mud!
I think this gets into “how
I think this gets into “how much clearance is enough” territory too. I’ve squeezed 28s into my Triban 3 but it’s very tight, particularly clearing the brake pivot in the fork. Will probably drop back down to 25s.
