Forum Replies Created
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fenix wrote:
Only time I’ve double flatted is hitting a nasty pothole on a bend at speed on Tri bars. I didn’t realise both had gone until I set off again after fixing the first flat.Pretty similar to me, except I missed the pothole (if I hadn’t I’d have been over the bars, it was huge). Instant deflation, initially I thought I’d picked something up in a mudguard. Fields round here are a mix of flint, chalk, and clay plus its hedge-cutting season.
I did the Di2 thing – great
I did the Di2 thing – great for commuting as it guarantees reliable shifting in all weathers, although the buttons are harder to use in winter gloves than mechanical.
I think if you can find a used 6870 Ultegra Di2 group then that’s the best option, at worst you’ll need to replace the battery.
I’ve now gone back to a mix of Tiagra and 105 (chainset & front mech) on both my bikes as that’s definitely the sweet spot in terms of performance/weight/functionality/price. Unless you’re racing you really don’t need 11-speed, a 10-speed Tiagra wide-range cassette will do the job. You do need to know how to set up and service your drivetrain, or be willing to pay your LBS to do it for you (that soon gets old, and drivetrain tuning is pretty easy once you’ve done it a few times – certainly easier than wheel building, or diagnosing Di2 issuess).
To get back to your question, it doesn’t matter what size the rings are, if the development is the same then the same amount of effort will be required. Crank arm length can make a difference to efficiency but that’s one for an advanced bike fit to determine.
fukawitribe wrote:
Outside bet, but might be worth checking whether the pot-hole has been reported.
Good point, should be able to claim for repair or replacement costs
Impressive. Drop Hunt an
Impressive. Drop Hunt an email, see what they suggest. I’d guess new rim, which shouldn’t be too expensive.
Possibly the front derailleur
Possibly the front derailleur is on the way out. Which Di2 group are you running? If when its working can you hear it auto-trim if you cross-chain?
I’ve always done well with
I’ve always done well with eBay – sold three bikes and a Di2 groupset that way with no issues and good prices. Just make sure you wait for one of their 1% seller fees offers. Good photos always, ideally plenty of them – you can always link to external hosting if you’ve got more than 12. Document everything, particularly damage.
If selling for local collection make sure you specify cash only as you can’t get eBay/Paypal seller protection on cash transactions. Above doesn’t apply if you’re posting it via tracked courier but I’d always prefer cash as its lower risk.
Be wary of scammers coming to see a bike and then backing out – this is a good way for a thief to scout out your shed, particularly if you get into talking about bikes. Limit your “reason for selling” to “new bike” or “no longer using” rather than “Yeah, I’ve got this new Dogma on the way with eTap and a £3k carbon wheelset”
Ride them.
Ride them.
I went from Shimano flat to SRAM drops and didn’t like the double tap shifting (also the front mechs are difficult to set up compared to Shimano in my experience) so I went back to Shimano. Have been through Ultegra and 105 and am now settled on a Tiagra/105 mix – best price/performance for me as I don’t *need* 11-speed.
However, I’m also a fan of style over substance and because I ride steel bikes I could be tempted by any modern group that was available in polished chrome, even if it was Campy. Growing up Campy was always the lusted after manufacturer but its so incompatible and expensive that unless it came on a new bike I don’t think I’d bother.
That definitely looks wrong.
That definitely looks wrong. I’ve got a frame with an integrated crown race and there is no gap between the top of the fork and the bottom of the headtube.
As long as the integrated race is fully engaged with the lower bearing there probably won’t be an issue but it does look untidy. The race won’t wear because it shouldn’t move once the headset is preloaded.
Ad Hynkel wrote:
She is eleven, just over 1.5m, so thinking the smaller framed 700c. Will go and have a look with her, she might find the drops too weird anyway, having been used to flat handlebars. Then again children are adaptable creatures. ThanksHappened to pop by my local Halfords on the way home today – they didn’t have them in stock so I couldn’t check clearances. Might be worth checking they’ve actually got them before paying a visit – they had nothing other than BSOs for kids although there were some Boardmans with what looked like very tiny frames so maybe 650B…
What size wheels are they?
What size wheels are they? 24s? If so check whether they’re 507 or 520 rims because there’s quite a difference in tyre availability. 507 is a mountain bike size so you’ll get wider tyres but that’s less the case with 520s.
Tiagra is a 10 speed system, it cannot be upgraded, you can’t upgrade to 105 one component at a time because 10 speed and 11 speed drivetrain components aren’t interchangeable thus you will be stuck at the Tiagra level, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing, just stuck that’s all.Not entirely true – you can use 11-speed cranksets and front mechs with current (4700)Tiagra, plus any level of disc/caliper brake (hydro or cable). Its only the rear mech and shifters that aren’t interchangeable, although potentially you could use an 11-speed mech on a 10 speed cassette with 10 speed shifters .
Tiagra nowadays is basically
Tiagra nowadays is basically 10-speed heavy Ultegra – perfect for a commuter. I’ve gone from Ultegra Di2 through 105 and have now settled on Tiagra. It’s utterly reliable, shifts well, and its cheaper to replace parts as and when they wear out. Looks good too, I’m actually tempted to swap out the black 105 chainrings I have on my new bike for the dark grey Tiagra.
The only caveat is the front mech – 105/Ultegra now have a short arms which can improve clearance on some frames with mudguards.
As to a bike I had a Merida Cyclocross 500 until recently, an absolutely brilliant all-rounder with space for full mudguards and 35mm tyres. All it was missing was top rack mounts and a drilled fork for a dynamo light if those are important. Would have been easy enough to run racks and guards if needed though – share the bottom mounts, and use a seat collar rack mount. I would still have it if the Merida World Tour team wasn’t sponsored by Bahrain.
To replace it I almost ended up getting an Arkose but instead settled on a Fairlight Faran because I wanted the experience of building something myself. I’d have no qualms about buying a Pinnacle – they’ve been in the market for years now and look surprisingly good. I saw a lovely dark red one at a cafe stop over the weekend and it looked well put together.
s9jackson wrote:
I`ve had a dolan for the last 6 years which i`ve loved and been great for sportives and races but now going to be riding more in alps and last year in the mountains I was shook to bits so need something more forgiving and also something that will last
So, carbon, hydro discs, space for 28mm tyres, best wheels you can find for the money. Frame is often the same throughout the range, it’s the kit that equates for the difference in price. Have a think about whether you want to electronic or cable gears (I’d stick with cables add the savings to the wheel budget). At the price you’re looking at you should aim to spend getting on for 40% on the wheelset.
Other than the weld quality
Other than the weld quality you also need to consider (as its a dropout) whether the spacing is correct and the alignment is good. Is it an integrated hanger, and if so is that the side that was welded?
So, two days after the
So, two days after the funeral and she’s cracking out the fizz for her mates? Whatever happened to gin?
