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Usually good deals to be had
Usually good deals to be had on last gen groups bundled with bikes from the likes of Ribble & Planet X. If you catch the right deal its not beyond the realms of sensibleness to buy a bike, strip the group off the frame and then sell the frame on.
Interesting to see that the list pricess for R7000 are slightly cheaper than 105, which begs the question what’s going to happen to Tiagra pricing, as they’ll be almost identical. In many ways Tiagra is just 10-speed 105 anyway so there shouldn’t be too big a gap but there needs to be for it to be seen as an upgrade. There’s a much bigger jump from 105 to Ultegra.
Something a little different.
Something a little different…
Planet X Giovannissimi 24″
520 wheels from an Airnimal Joey on Deore hubs
Group, saddle, and bars from an Islabikes Beinn 24
105 brakes from the parts bin (OK, ok, overkill for a kid’s bike I know, but he can do awesome endos with them)
Ritchey Comp headset
Very light for a kids bike, goes like stink. 1x chainset, 8-speed cassette
A complete and utter PITA to build due to poor quality control and difficult to find parts. 1″ external headset, 520 wheels are very rare, as are clinchers to fit them, hanger didn’t fit well, fork had an odd crown race (turns out that Italian differs to JIS). Ultimately worth it due to massive grin on son’s face. Just need to work out final bar/saddle position before cutting the steerer.
This has never happened to me
This has never happened to me, but I’ve routinely stopped to offer assistance if I see a cyclist at the side of the road, even when driving if I’ve got the bike in the car. Being relatively rural I’ve got a lot of spares/tools to get me home, particularly if I’m riding the tourer. Have also taught my son to ask “Need any help mate?” if he sees someone fixing a puncture, and even though he’s 8 he’s got a toolkit with spare tube on his bike.
As a cyclist if there was someone leant up against my window I’d probably offer assistance but I can also kinda understand the approach of the homeowner.
You can do most of the
You can do most of the adjustments including firmware updates with the battery charger, the other box is primarily for diagnostic work.
If you have a braze on mech the support bolt sets the angle of the cage. Band on mechs can be rotated to set the angle, although the latest Shimano mechs state you should use the support bolt to do this.
As I understand it you can’t downgrade firmware on Di2 kit so not sure what’s going on with the versions.
Strongly recommend that you read the Shimano dealer manual (not user guide) – they’re excellent and include all the information you need to set up your group.I usually request a spare
I usually request a spare hanger. Having said that my LBS has a hanger encyclopedia so as long as it isn’t completely trashed they can find one that’s a reasonable match, and then fettle accordinglyZooming in on the photo, there appears some swarf as though the threads could have been stripped.Thats just threadlocker. It comes pre added to the screw when it arrived. I did read that you should pull the cage away when you screw it in to stop pressure on the hanger but that just makes the job more fiddly
I learnt this lesson the (not too) expensive way when my B-tension screw bored a hole in my hanger – clearly sharper/harder than the hanger. Since then have been extra cautious particularly as one of my steel frames doesn’t have a replaceable hanger.
Is that the one with rim
Is that the one with rim brakes and long drops? Kinesis say 30mm will fit
The Schwalbe levers are
The Schwalbe levers are excellent for tough tyres, you can use them to force the bead in to the central trough as you get round to the last section, freeing up your elbows from that duty.
If you’re not experienced at fitting road tyres make sure you start the second bead install opposite the valve and work equally around the rim. It should only start to get tough around the 11 o’clock – 1 o’clock position+1 for Randonneurs although
+1 for Randonneurs although they were also a bitch to fit (on Shimano RS11s). Look slightly lower profile than Marathons so should give better clearance. Dirt cheap from Decathlon too.
I’d be really surprised if
I’d be really surprised if you’ll get a 28 plus guards on a Triban 520.
The Marathons will fit a road wheel no issues at all, other than the fact they’re notoriously tight on the rim. Schwalbe know this and now sell a set of three tyre levers that simplify the initial fit. There’s also a Youtube video showing the use of toe straps to help fit the tyres.
In my experience some tyres and rims just don’t play nice – they might all be 700c wheels but rim width can be a factor, as can tyre bead design. For example, I had to fight for literally a couple of hours to get a Panaracer Gravelking on one of my wheelsets, whereas another wheel was as easy as a set of Contis.
Typically, particularly in the case of folding tyres, once they’ve been fitted once and run for a bit they’re much easier to replace at the roadside when you’ve got a puncture.
Most of the time I don’t lock
Most of the time I don’t lock it, but that’s mainly because its got a dirty great tagalong on the back and as such the whole thing weighs around 20 kilos. Also live in a rural area so crime is low.
If I’m leaving it for more than 5 mins out of my sight then I use a big Oxford D-lock (Sold Secure Gold) that does indeed weigh a ton. Not an issue because the bike is so heavy and its in a pannier.
On my best road bike I never leave it unattended so don’t have a lock. I’d like one of these, waiting for them to come back in stock in my colour/length.
What width is the rim? (the
What width is the rim? (the distance across the rim where the tyre sits). With a wide rim and a narrow tyre it’s important to push the bead into the well of the rim. Contis in my experience always go on pretty easily. It’s mostly technique and experience. If the tyres came folded I usually unfold them a couple of hours before trying to fit them and ideally leave them in the sun to warm up (obvs difficult this weekend!)Thanks,Are these the ones?
http://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-parts/inner-tubes/continental-race-bike-inner-tube-700c-28
Yup, unless you’ve got aero wheels which I doubt very much on a Speedster.
You’ll find them cheaper elsewhere though.
What tyre size are you running at the moment? Tubes come in a range – typically 23-28mm and 28-35 for road tyres
Schwalbe G-One Allround 700x35C currently – came with the bike.
In which case yes, you’ll need new tubes too. You need to check the width and the valve length – roadies have different valve lengths because of aero rims – you’ll like need 42mm or less. Presta valves, something like the Conti Race 28 20-25mm
Thanks everyone!I’ve ordered some 25mm Continental Ultrasport for now. see how I get on.
Daft question, will I need a different innertube?
<I said I was a newbie>!
What tyre size are you running at the moment? Tubes come in a range – typically 23-28mm and 28-35 for road tyres
