kil0ran

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Viewing 15 replies - 151 through 165 (of 1,124 total)
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  • in reply to: Cracking Vittoria Rubino graphene tyres? #991201
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    kil0ran

    Not sure as I bought the

    Not sure as I bought the wheels secondhand. My money is on them being stored mounted and flat. The cracking on the rear was all the way round though, on the shoulder of the tyre. I think they’re dual compound tyres so I wonder if it was a manufacturing defect. Still, no bother, seller gave me a partial refund and I’ve got a used set of Conti GP5000s on the way.

    in reply to: Holding up the traffic #991243
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    kil0ran

    Bit early for the Great

    Bit early for the Great Dorset Steam Fair. Oh how I love it when those come through Fordingbridge and struggle up Station Hill.

    in reply to: Cycle path, which side? #991153
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    kil0ran

    Always keep left, but

    Always keep left, but particularly if the path is alongside a road. Perhaps because I commuted in Southampton alongside HGVs but I always hated riding on the edge of the pavement with my back to the traffic flow. Oddly felt more vulnerable than riding on the road. 

    in reply to: Cracking Vittoria Rubino graphene tyres? #991187
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    kil0ran

    Based on the wheels they came

    Based on the wheels they came with they’re 2-3 years old (OEMs from a Bianchi Oltre)

    in reply to: Cracking Vittoria Rubino graphene tyres? #991183
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    kil0ran

    Pic

    Pic (should add that the crack is pretty much round the entire circumference

    https://road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/WhatsApp Image 2022-04-13 at 11.09.37 AM.jpeg

    in reply to: Flat road pedals? #991019
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    kil0ran

    Livs arrived and fitted.

    Livs arrived and fitted. Proudly claiming to be pedals for a lady but as I’ve got size 7 feet I’m sure they’ll be fine. Pins aren’t of the shin-gouging variety and there’s a nice concave platform which should aid comfort.

    https://road.cc/wp-content/uploads/roadcc/WhatsApp Image 2022-04-13 at 11.09.40 AM.jpeg

    in reply to: Flat road pedals? #991017
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    kil0ran

    Thanks – that Liv Sport pedal

    Thanks – that Liv Sport pedal is a badge-engineered Wellgo R146, which is what I wanted but couldn’t find for sale in the UK (well, except in white or red, neither of which will matchy matchy a pale blue Giant Defy)

    in reply to: Superteam Wheels/eBay #991031
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    kil0ran

    What’s wrong with them? Have
    What’s wrong with them? Have you had them apart to check the bearings and the freehub? Strip and service might sort it unless there’s irreparable damage to the bearing seats. Take the freehub off and see if you can find the part number, it won’t be expensive to replace.

    in reply to: Flat road pedals? #991009
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    kil0ran

    Thanks – like you say the

    Thanks – like you say the issue is getting them. Looks like plenty of options but no UK distie as far as I can see

    in reply to: Shin Guard #990787
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    kil0ran

    Have a look at Sweet

    Have a look at Sweet Protection, very lightweight and breathable pads designed for cross country mountain biking. Or maybe just a leg warmer? Or lightweight full length bibs?

    in reply to: Convert Fulcrum thru axel to QR? #895841
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    kil0ran

    As this trends highly on

    As this trends highly on Google for this subject, and Fulcrum’s user documentation isn’t the greatest, I thought I’d post some instructions, as I’m currently converting some Fulcrum 4 DBs to QR. Whisper it quietly, but these instructions will also work for some Campy wheels, must be made in the same factory or something 

    Generally, for most Fulcrum road wheels made in the last ten years the conversion is the same and hub shells are adapted using a mix of push fit end caps and screw on adapters. The shells are natively 15mm so there are end caps for 15mm, 12mm, and QR, and you can also convert the rear from 142mm to 135mm spacing or vice versa. I’ve not found boost adapters yet, but they might exist in the Fulcrum darkside parts catalog. 

    Instructions for rear are as follows:

    1. Remove NDS (non-drive side) end cap – it will just pull off, it’s only interference fit and on my wheels was pretty loose.

    2. Remove pre-load plastic collar on NDS. That’s a conventional thread on both the 2.5mm hex fastener and the collar, which just unscrews revealing the axle which has flats for a 17mm cone spanner. With the collar removed you can push the axle out with the freehub attached but it’s not necessary for this job and probably best to keep it in place, you don’t want the freehub pawls falling out.

     
    3. Switching to the drive side you’ll find that the metal end cap also has flats which also take 17mm cone spanner. This is REVERSE THREAD. Hold the axle on the NDS with the 17mm cone spanner and undo the driveside cap clockwise (righty-loosey)

    You can do the above without removing the axle or the freehub so it’s pretty easy. The DS metal end cap was loose on my wheels too so didn’t need much persuasion – go easy, which is why it makes sense to use cone spanners. 

    For 142/12mm thru to 135mm QR for most Fulcrum road wheels you need this kit RM16-TA12135 plus the end caps which are part number KITFCRAQR

    Refitting is the reverse of removal

    For the fronts if you need to go from 100mm/12 or 100mm/15 thru to 100/QR or you “just” pull off the end caps and use part number RM11-TAQR. There are also end caps to go the other way, the adapters are completely interchangeable so you can go from 12 to 15 for example if you decide to use some road disc wheels on a gravel or XC frame. I say “just pull them off” because they’re pretty tight. Mole grips will probably be needed. I haven’t done mine yet but it looks like there’s a lip you might be able to get purchase on with a drift/punch. 11mm wooden dowel would probably do the trick but be careful, particularly if you ever intend to convert back to thru-axle, you don’t want to mar the axle.

    To confirm exactly which caps and converters you need for your wheels look them up in the Fulcrum spare parts catalogue for the year of manufacture. If you’re not sure of year of manufacture I think you can look it up by inputting the wheel label info/serial number into the website. Having said that the hub design hasn’t changed much in recent years so if you’re not sure just take a guess. Spare parts catalogs are here https://www.fulcrumwheels.com/en/support/download-area/download-user-manuals

    Oh, being Campy (sorry, I mean Fulcrum) these adapters are ridiculuosly overpriced for what they are, particularly compared to FSA’s similar system. However, you do need them, particularly for the rear as the wheel will be spaced to 142mm and so won’t fit a 135mm spaced frame using one of those generic thru to QR axles you can get for a fiver from eBay. One of those would be OK for the front I guess but the front end caps are only about a tenner.

    in reply to: RIP CrippledCyclist #990605
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    kil0ran

    Oh, that’s really sad. He was
    Oh, that’s really sad. He was an amazing force for good and taught me a huge amount about mobility and the law. Chatted often on Twitter. Lovely bloke unless you were running a train company

    in reply to: Don’t Have a Crash #988283
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    kil0ran

    Never mind all that, is the
    Never mind all that, is the bike ok? 🙂

    in reply to: Winter gravel tyres for muddy UK conditions – 700c #987509
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    kil0ran

    WTB Nano, cheap and will
    WTB Nano, cheap and will handle everything. 40mm width in 700c. The Sendero is even more gnarly but I don’t think it’s available in 700c. Ran both on my gravel bike, coped very well with New Forest slop

    in reply to: The perfect front and rear cycle camera !! Can you help.. #987679
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    kil0ran

    I guess you could even tie
    I guess you could even tie the cameras to the battery and mount cryptographically so they’re useless on their own, reducing risk of theft

Viewing 15 replies - 151 through 165 (of 1,124 total)