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Mungecrundle wrote:
Would agree with Python. Unless it is beyond serviceable use, you already have a commuting bike. You will have your own reasons, but if I had this as a n+1 dilema I would be tempted to get something special for weekends and for the commute when it is sunny. I am a great advocate for discs, and I also run Di2 but if I had to choose only one for a best use only bike then I’d go with the Di2 in preference.That’s kind of my thinking – keep the Synapse for bad weather and then zing along on the new summer bike when the roads are dry. Regarding discs vs Di2 – I’m thinking that I could upgrade to Di2 in a couple of years, but disc brakes can’t so easily be fitted to a frame that isn’t designed for them.
2 min google and £2400 will get you a 60mm Carbon Clincher, Dura Ace Equipped Emonda ok it’s a faff and involves a bit of stripping and flogging, but an example of mixture of off the peg and home building can get you. Plus I’ve seen a similar bike built and its daft light rocket for the money.Unfortunately, the Emonda is aluminium and I’ve arbitrarily decided that the frame has to be carbon. I’m now thinking I’d rather spend more on the base bike and “skimp” on the groupset so maybe Di2 will be consigned to the next next bike. Then again, Ultegra Di2 is only £900 from Wiggle.
arfa wrote:
I commute a similar weekly distance on a caad12 105 with hydraulic discs and can’t fault the bike at all. OK it is an aluminium frame but it is wonderfully stiff and there’s minimal flex when you drop the hammer. I’d save the £££’s or spend them on upgrades.There’s nothing wrong with aluminium, but I’ve never owned a carbon frame, so I’ve decided it has to be carbon (or possibly titanium, but that’s probably more wishful thinking).
Take a look at the Giant offerings. The components are brilliant for the price and can be bought in a real bike shop.Di2 might be a stretch at this price, especially if you want to buy from an actual shop, but Canyon do the Ultimate CF SL 9.0 Di2 for £2,349 (not disc though). Maybe the CF SL DISC 9.0 would be a better option.
For my money, I’d be looking for a power metre (or other such toys) before Di2. Di2 is great, but my 6800 has done 12,000 miles and it’s still perfectly crisp. I’d just go to as many bike shops as possible, have a ride and see what you like.
Yep, I’ve been looking at some of the Giant bikes and Canyon bikes seem to be very popular with the Road.cc crowd.
You may well be right about Di2 being too expensive in relation to the bike – maybe I should ignore electronic for the moment.
I say this on all these threads, go to your local Evans, and book a trial ride on a Supersix in that price bracket. (I also usually say book a trial on a Synapse, to compare, but you already know all about the Synapse). I tested a Supersix when I was buying, and really liked it, but in the end it didn’t quite have that something extra. You’ll then have a benchmark to try any other competitors.I’m a little out of touch with the current market, I don’t think you’ll get the spec you are looking for unless you go the internet route. But I would want to try before I laid out that money.
If you’re going to do that many miles on the new bike I’d go for discs ahead of Di2. I’ve never tried Di2, and although my mates who have it swear they couldn’t go back, I still don’t see the benefits outweighing sacrifices elsewhere. Disc brakes will work better than rim brakes and won’t knacker your wheels if you are a bit slack with maintenance.
Thanks. The SuperSix was on my list of possible bikes as they do seem to be a most excellent bike. I’ll definitely arrange a ride on one.
You could well be right about Di2 – my main reason for wanting it is that I’ve never tried it and it’s new and shiny. I’m running a 10-speed Ultegra on my Synapse and the shifting is almost perfect so maybe I should wait for electronic shifting and prioritise discs instead.
I would consider internet purchasing as I do a lot of bike fettling and would consider getting a frame and building it up, though there’s a certain amount of risk involved with that (e.g. build it and then decide that you don’t like it that much).
Mine have “Tubeless Ready” and “V-Guard” printed on them.Same here. Like in this pic http://www.cykelportalen.dk/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Schwalbe-S-One-02.jpg Mine were from Wiggle about 6 months ago
Would you mind posting a link to the EBay ad?
The tyres I bought were these ones: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162387332102?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I think those were the only 2 that they had but here’s a link to their shop (they delivered nice and quick): http://stores.ebay.co.uk/activesport-store
S One now renamed G One speed. In S One, they did two types a tubeless version and tubular. So it looks like it is tubeless.I have the G One 40mm and it comes with various models, some not classed as tubeless and inner tubes are required.
I thought the G-One was a bigger tyre – the S-Ones that I’ve got are 30mm. The tread looks the same as the G-One though.
I think I’ll try fitting one of them again now that they’ve been hanging up without being folded. The problem I had previously could have been due to the bead being a bit kinked.
Is it my imagination, or does
The way we pay road tax will change significantly from 1 April and it is something to consider if you’re going to be buying a new car.Is it my imagination, or does the BBC not bother proof reading articles for obvious mistakes?
Can they not understand that no-one currently pays road tax?
That’s exactly my issue. I think there’s a good chance I’ll continue to run my r500s into the ground until I:a) break them
b) find a pair of wheels that I absolutely love for a reasonable amount of money, which is highly unlikely!
G
I’d agree. RS330 isn’t that much different to R500. I can recommend the Shimano 6800 Ultegra wheels if you want to go tubeless, but they’re not particularly light. If you shop around you can pick up a pair quite cheaply.
In my opinion, wheels are a very expensive way of reducing weight. Once you start spending over a few hundred pounds, you get diminishing returns for your cash (although expensive wheels do look great).
I had a similar encounter
I had a similar encounter with my first road tubeless – Schwalbe Pro-One on the rear and got a big cut on a new Bristol cycle path (CattleMarket Road under the bridge). I ended up assuming the tyre was knacked and put a new one on instead, but after reading some of the comments here, I might try and repair the old one now.
I don’t see a problem with
I don’t see a problem with that. Worst case is that the PC drops his coffee or falls off his bike and learns to be a bit more careful in future. Maybe he’s using it as a close-pass test – drivers that spill his coffee get pulled over for a talking to.
I prefer a rucksack to
I prefer a rucksack to panniers. I’ve got myself a Proviz reflective rucksack which seems nice and comfortable and lights up brilliantly.
With a rucksack, you don’t need a heavy pannier rack and often a rucksack is lighter than an equivalent pannier bag. However, you get to have a weight on your back which can be uncomfortable if it’s not positioned correctly. I like to think that it trains you to minimise sideways movements if you’ve got a weight on your back.
I tried a similar pair from
I tried a similar pair from AliExpress but they were really badly made. A crack developed from just tightening up the stem bolts to 4nm so I got my money back (despite the manufacturer claiming it was just a surface crack).
If you have a very long beard, then it can obscure your front light. More of a problem around the trendy parts of east London.It’s when you get it caught in your front wheel that things get a bit hairy.
I’m running these at the
I’m running these at the moment and I like them. I’ve only just started running tubeless on the rear one and it works a treat. Initially, I struggled with getting tyres on and off these wheels, but I found a technique that makes it a lot easier. Move all of the tyre beads towards the centre of the rim which gives the tyre just enough room to make all the difference.
The not-so good is that the pull string closure, while okay, isn’t as snug as the ratchet/velcro combination in typical shoes, but as I say, it’s probably good enough. Also, the rubber heel doesn’t seem particularly thick, and I have some doubts about its longevity, but I guess we’ll see in time.That reminds me – the pull string closure caused me to punch myself in the eye a few weeks back when it suddenly snapped. Remember kids, always pull the cord tight away from your face.