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The gap should only be a millimetre or two (depending on how well built/expensive the frame is).
The OP’s photos do show about one mm of daylight between dropout and the locknut face of the hub. Hawkinspeter’s photo of the red bike has more than this.
The picture of the empty disc
The picture of the empty disc side dropout has a worn groove in it. To me this looks like the spindle has been moving about in the dropout under load. I’m not sure you would get that much of a gouge just from putting the wheel in and closing the Qr.
That could only happen if the QR wasn’t tight enough at some stage, hence the Evans advice to tighten it more.
Fix can be:
put the wheel in, align it and close the QR
or
fill the worn area with 2part epoxy (JBWeld for example) then carefully file/sand it back to true. (The epoxy, not the base metal) The repair only has to hold in compression, and nothing would go seriously wrong if it failed. Unless you file into the dropout and it falls off, so use a fine file.
Holy cr*p that’s scary.
Holy cr*p that’s scary. Assuming it’s not some dreadful seized bearing grinding through the steerer problem, (I don’t see the crown bearing in the photo, presumably it dropped out when the fork went?) that should be sufficient for Scott to reconsider the scope of the recall.
The fork should not be the first component that breaks in a debate with a pothole. I would expect a snakebite puncture, rim ding, maybe cracked or buckled wheel, before the crown gives way.
The recall notice said they only had one report of failure. Yours makes it two.
Sizes on a new fork – it appears to be straight ( not tapered) so 1”1/8 which is pretty standard will fit. Headset bearings will have the size/angle marked on.
And Ros will be on the telly
And Ros will be on the telly now to talk about it
Ooh look, graphs. And maps.
Ooh look, graphs. And maps. And maps with graphs!http://epomm.eu/tems/
I’d be intrested to know the mean/meadian/modal commuting distances of commuters in the U.K compared to more sensible places …. possibly a function of housing costs?This bears further investigation.
And graphs. We want graphs.
Round here, traffic and hills
Round here, traffic and hills. But mostly traffic.
my ramblings:
I was watching ‘Made in Dagenham ‘ the other night, set in the late sixties . The factory workforce arrived from nearby estates on bikes in their working gear. It was the normal way to get around – a motorcycle was a luxury item. Now it’s seen as a lifestyle choice, rather than the best, easiest option.
I think the NL difference is infrastructure, and no hills, so bikes are easier than cars for short city journeys and commutes. In Haarlem I saw plumbers with cargo bikes just doing a normal job. In the UK that’s the sort of thing I might spot in Hebden Bridge, but certainly not mainstream.
all of which means the barriers to cycling as normal transport in the UK are high, so the question could be asked – are women more risk averse than men? The comparison earlier with running is interesting- arguably a lower perception of risk running on the pavement than Cycling on the road, but more female participation even though running is horrible.
Podc wrote:
It’s worth remembering that none of the people who have lost their lives after being involved in an accident whilst riding bikes and not wearing a helmet, are able to add their anecdata to these discussions.ftfy
I had some bling jockey
I had some bling jockey wheels on my MTB. The g pulley had very little float to start with. Over time it migrated sideways, the cap over the bearing grinding its way into the wheel. I tend to stick to plastic now.
The motorcycle chain wax I
The motorcycle chain wax I used in the past on motorbikes was thick and sticky. Designed to not get flung off at high speeds. I wouldn’t put it on my (pedal) bike.
Never tried this particular product, but it’s a very different application- I’d leave it.
The crank extraction cap goes
The crank extraction cap goes over the captive crank bolt. The original ones have pin holes for a special tool. How did it come to be missing? They are usually very difficult to remove.
Potential replacement:
Bargain!
Bargain!
Most important is to get some
Most important is to get some really cool bar tape though.
Our two daughters both
Our two daughters both struggled at the start with Luath 24 shifters, and so would typically leave it in bottom gear as it was so hard to change down again. They wouldn’t have been able to brake or shift on the drop levers at an age where they were riding a 20”. It wasn’t till they were about 9 they would use the drop levers at all, and age 11 with disc brakes older d is able to brake and shift from any position.
CX brake levers on the top will be needed. For shifting, maybe a bar end shifter would be best. Or even both bar end brake and shift!
http://www.jtekengineering.com/products/aero-bar-mounted-aero-brake-lever/
Kidsracing also sell junior handlebars – maybe have a chat with them.
The difference is the Shimano
The difference is the Shimano uses the finger tight plastic tool to tension. The crank is held onto the shaft by two clamping bolts done up firmly, like an Aheadset.
The Miche 45 Nm is to hold the crank onto the splines securely, against a stop on the shaft. It does depend on having an accurate BB width and the right spacers to put just the right preload on.
