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2013 cervelo r3 or 2012 look 586 sl

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  • February 27, 2017 at 12:05 am #26826
    brdisthewrd

    just looking for input if anyone has ridden either of these bikes!

    the r3 im looking at is ultegra with a 105 cassette, and the 586 sl is custom built with 2012 dura ace and mavic R-sys wheels. both fit my budget (2100$) just im concerned of worn out cassettes, shifting cables etc.

    both are gorgeous bikes im just stuck on which one to choose. i plan on getting into racing when i can (busy with work), and participating in my first gran fondo come september.

    r3 https://www.pinkbike.com/photo/13830354/

    look586 http://imgur.com/a/EG6LH

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  • February 28, 2017 at 2:01 pm #887853
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    turnerjohn

    I’ve an R5, a Look 695 SR ISP

    I’ve an R5, a Look 695 SR ISP (both new DA) had a Look 586SL ISP all ride quite differently.

    The 586 (due to the ISP) was well cussioned at the back (just like the 695) but the front was far stiffer and not as fogiving.

    R5 rides totally different, far snappier handling and more nimble overal  and climbs better however both LOOKs soak up hits far better

    Both are superb rides but the LOOK is better over distance and the R5 better for shorter sprints…..imoa ! 

    Wheels make a big difference though….I’m using Zipp Fires 303s and 404s for either / combo.

    Both would do the job although I’d sway to the Cervelo for simple racing…..

    February 27, 2017 at 7:58 pm #887851
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    allanj

    Nice dilemma, I have always

    Nice dilemma, I have always fancied a LOOK, and ride a Cervelo.

    You can’t go wrong in many ways, as long as they have both been looked after (and it sounds like you have established that as far as you can).   One thing to look at is tyre clearance, bikes of that era weren’t always set up for 25mm tyres.

    February 27, 2017 at 7:21 pm #887849
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    brdisthewrd
    Bobbinogs wrote:
    I think you are worrying about the wrong things!  For instance, I swapped out a gear cable a couple of weeks ago…it cost me £4 and shifting is now sweet.  Most of the things you mention I would file under “Consummable items”, a bit like overlooking a fantastic 2k bike because the pads are a bit worn.

    It looks like you are buying second hand so the biggest concern for me would be provenance and reliability of the seller.  Availability of receipts, crash history, etc.  Assuming that all is fine then I would urge a little caution over getting into racing with such a good purchase.  Most of the folks I know who race do so to a very creditable level but only ever ride stuff that can be replaced without too many tears.  Favoured bikes for the lower cat levels are typically aluminium framed (as it can take the odd knock without too much hassle) and standard wheels (certainly nothing fancy).  If this all sounds like the bike you already have then ride that for the first few seasons in racing as it won’t be the bike that holds you back for a long while yet.

    If both bikes pass muster, then buy the one that makes you smile since it will be the best one 🙂

     

    neither have been crashed. the look was built buy a bike mechanic, used alot in the interior of BC (lots of hill climbing, notice the wear on the big ring on the crankset) and sold to his best friend whos now the current owner. the r3 was purchased buy guy who actually knows bikes in and out, builds and rides mainly DH just has no use for the r3 no more. 

    you’ve made some valid points when it comes to racing. i was looking for a CAAD10,couldnt really find any decent ones. if i were to race the Look and lets say i had a crash, i would be in tears seeing all the carbon destroyed….

    i was more leanient towards the look tbh. its a great bike for a great price, super light for climbing (90% of my rides all have massive climbs), wheels alone are worth alot, but after looking at it again last night ive taken notice on the cassette and crankset to be a little worn out ^ ^ ^ a nd would need replacing in the near future. 

    February 27, 2017 at 6:25 pm #887847
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    bobbinogs

    I think you are worrying

    I think you are worrying about the wrong things!  For instance, I swapped out a gear cable a couple of weeks ago…it cost me £4 and shifting is now sweet.  Most of the things you mention I would file under “Consummable items”, a bit like overlooking a fantastic 2k bike because the pads are a bit worn.

    It looks like you are buying second hand so the biggest concern for me would be provenance and reliability of the seller.  Availability of receipts, crash history, etc.  Assuming that all is fine then I would urge a little caution over getting into racing with such a good purchase.  Most of the folks I know who race do so to a very creditable level but only ever ride stuff that can be replaced without too many tears.  Favoured bikes for the lower cat levels are typically aluminium framed (as it can take the odd knock without too much hassle) and standard wheels (certainly nothing fancy).  If this all sounds like the bike you already have then ride that for the first few seasons in racing as it won’t be the bike that holds you back for a long while yet.

    If both bikes pass muster, then buy the one that makes you smile since it will be the best one 🙂

    February 27, 2017 at 5:00 pm #887845
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    brdisthewrd

    i’ve inspected the bike

    i’ve inspected the bike pretty well. i’d like to change the chains regardless on both bikes (upgrade the 105 cassette to a higher ratio), no crashes or cracks on the frames, shifting effortless on the bikes. i think what it comes down to is local retail support, and which one fits better. 

    February 27, 2017 at 4:24 pm #887843
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    VeloUSA

    By “im looking at” are you

    By “im looking at” are you going by pictures or have you inspected the bikes first hand? I don’t mean to sound critical but your description doesn’t mention –

    1. Inspected for chainring & cassette teeth wear? (can you spot the worn out chainring in the attached picture?)

    2. Measure chain & perform chain stretch test?

    3. Ridden the bikes to feel shifting & braking functions?

    4. Have you asked the seller the age of the cables, when the BB was last greased, front and rear mech last tuned, etc?

    5. Inspect for signs of a crash?

    If you’re unsure how to perform these tasks ask the seller if you can take the bike to your LBS for an inspection. It will cost you bit for the inspection, but in the long run may save you extra coins and frustration.

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