bob_c

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  • in reply to: Sharing a training tool I built — looking for feedback #1236223
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    bob_c

    Maybe the chat output could provide more explanation.
    e.g. “you completed a high intensity session yesterday and you have 3h available today. Based on your overall goal to improve your 20 minute power, today a zone 2 ride with 4×10 min tempo efforts is recommended”

    in reply to: Sharing a training tool I built — looking for feedback #1236193
    1
    bob_c

    I think the feedback is harsh. Presumably the tone/language can be easily changed by editing the “agent” config.

    Adaptive training is great for people with variable schedules – I use Xert and use the adaptive training advisor, which is essentially “what’s the best workout I could do today, given training history, time available and training goals?”.

    Maybe you should consider what you believe are your USPs. For example, what does the chat function provide – in terms of value to the user – over and above the adaptive training features available on Xert, Trainerroad, Join etc?

    in reply to: Experiences of Hornit DB140 or similar? #1019327
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    bob_c

    Thanks all – much appreciated

    Thanks all – much appreciated! Based on the comments I’ll probably pass. It seems like it’s much too loud to alert pedestrians (I’d use a bell anyway), and too odd-sounding to reliably alert drivers!

    bob_c

    Think of the bike and the

    Think of the bike and the rider as a single system with only inputs and outputs.

    Instantaneous:

    No change in mass – the water is not leaving the bike-rider system

    Over time, though….

    • Loss of water through evaporative cooling i.e. sweating
    • Loss of water through exhalation, excretion etc
    • Loss of mass of rider due to energy expenditure (mass-energy equivalence – miniscule effect compared to dehydration mass change!)
    in reply to: Shimano GRX rear derailleur #948837
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    bob_c

    Great, thanks for that. The

    Great, thanks for that. The chart is very useful too – I hadn’t seen it before. I have 11-32 at the back anyway so it’s within range.

    I suppose the large cog lower limit must be something to do with the geometry of the derailleur and length of B screw not allowing the upper jockey wheel to get close enough to a cassette cog <32T when in the low limit position. In practice, this probably doesn’t make much difference and could also be typical Shimano conservatism based on worst-case assumptions on derailleur hanger design.

    in reply to: ride london rankings #947587
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    bob_c

    https://datadiversions

    https://datadiversions.shinyapps.io/ride100/

    This site says it should be updated within a few days with the 2019 data

    in reply to: Ads help us run this site #924365
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    bob_c

    Same here on Chrome mobile,
    Same here on Chrome mobile, along with the annoyingly-placed “Smartphone” button that I desperately try to avoid pressing (it seems to break everything)

    in reply to: One bike to rule ’em all…?? #924135
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    bob_c

    I have a Carbonda CFR 505
    I have a Carbonda CFR 505 which does exactly what you describe. You have to order the frameset direct from the manufacturer but for a small fee you can design your own paintwork, then you get to choose all the bits to build it up. It has clearance for 700cx40 or 650bx47 and has been a great to ride on trips up to 150 miles on road and some shorter mixed terrain trips. The geometry is close to a normal road bike so I also use it for club training sessions at Hillingdon circuit.

    in reply to: Pictures of your Bike #684645
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    bob_c

    Carbonda CFR-505
    Carbonda CFR-505

    in reply to: Tyre recommendations please. Approximately 35mm tubeless road #911319
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    bob_c

    I use gravel king SK 32mm set

    I use gravel king SK 32mm set up tubeless on some 23mm internal width rims. They measure 34-35mm and have been fast and comfortable for road/path riding – wider rims make a big difference. I assume the smooth ones Thelma mentioned might seem a bit faster but these have been great for winter riding. 

    in reply to: Rim brakes, 28mm tyres, and mudguards? Frame recommendation? #910137
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    bob_c

    I’m trying – with so far no
    I’m trying – with so far no success apart from scammers – to sell my condor fratello frameset. Could be of interest if you’re over 6ft and would be way under budget.

    in reply to: Zipp vs Hunt Wheels #909177
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    bob_c

    Their aluminium rims are
    Their aluminium rims are normally Kinlin. This is the same as the Cycle Clinic own brand so I would think the quality is pretty good.

    in reply to: Northwave Extreme Winter woes #906885
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    bob_c

    Get some dry suit ankle seals

    Get some dry suit ankle seals or use some marigold cuffs (black, yellow or pink – your choice) to direct the water to flow onto the outside of the shoe instead of straight into it.

    in reply to: Planet X, value or shite? #903903
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    bob_c

    It depends. If you make sure
    It depends. If you make sure you’re buying products that are on offer in one of the perennial sales then you can get some good bargains. I haven’t bought a bike from there though so can’t comment on them.

    Stuff that I have bought that is excellent:
    On one bib shorts £18
    Merino baselayer with coolmax back £13
    USB rechargeable flashing lights with 50h battery £5
    Hi vis Roubaix arm warmers £5
    Merino socks £3
    105 chainset and brakes – cheaper than anywhere else

    Stuff that’s rubbish:
    Phone waterproof case that split £2
    Zefal bottle £2

    I’ve put the prices to show that as long as you buy at the right time it won’t break the bank if it turns out to be rubbish.

    in reply to: roadlink wolftooth lost 11t top gear #901937
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    bob_c

    If there is still noticeable
    If there is still noticeable tension in the cable when you’re trying to get into the 11t then it’s likely to be cable tension; if the cable is loose but it’s still not shifting then it’s the limit screw.

    You probably know all these steps I but I’d probably start again with the rear derailleur setup:
    1. Disconnect cable and wind in adjuster
    2. Use limit screw to line up derailleur on 11t
    3. Reconnect cable
    4. Wind out adjuster until you can shift 11t-12t-11t smoothly
    5. Shift into lowest gear, adjust limit screw
    6. Fine tune tension

Viewing 15 replies - 1 through 15 (of 27 total)