Words and photographs by James Startt

The Tour of Flanders is built on its climbs – on rhythm and rupture, on cobbles and crowd noise. Every berg and muur carries its own mythology.

For years, the Muur in Geraardsbergen loomed largest, but lately the spotlight has shifted to the Oude Kwaremont and the Paterberg, twin challenges, where the race tends to come undone.

The Kwaremont sprawls – long, grinding, relentless. But the Paterberg? That one’s got a bite of its own. Short, sharp, almost rude in its 20 per cent pitches. It doesn’t ask questions; it makes demands. And somehow, it has a mood all its own.

aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Probably best to cover that sign up with stickers… (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)

Where the Kwaremont feels like a full-blown festival, the Paterberg hums at a lower frequency. More stripped-down, more intimate.

The slope is exposed, with barriers lining just one side, while I wedge in with the other photographers in the ditch across the road. It’s a good place to be – closer to the effort, closer to the strain. More angles, more chances to catch the action the way I see it. And as the final climb of the day, it carries a quiet certainty: the eventual winner will be clear.

This time, I stayed put. No chasing the race – just a full day on the Paterberg. I shot the riders, sure, but the story kept drifting outward.

aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
It wouldn’t be the Tour of Flanders without an abundance of Flemish flags on display (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)

I arrived just after the men rolled out of Antwerp, when the hillside was still half-asleep. But not for long. Fans filtered in from every direction, drawn in like weather. A few at first, then waves, then a crowd thick enough to change the landscape. By the afternoon, the hill wasn’t just alive – it was electric.

In the end, that was enough. More than enough. A day well spent on the Paterberg.

aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Just in case the riders forget where they are (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
Paterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
A very Flemish landscape from the top of the Paterberg (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026026
One umbrella-wielding fan can’t contain his excitement (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
While this nonplussed spectator ups the fancy dress game. His sign reads: ‘I’ve lost my bearings’. (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
An alcoholic reminder of the Paterberg’s big brother down the road (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Tadej Pogačar rockets up the hill second time around to seal his third Ronde win (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Mathieu van der Poel is roared on as the Dutchman is forced to accept second place again behind the rampant world champion (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Demi Vollering powers up the Paterberg alone to finally add the Tour of Flanders to her illustrious palmares (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Chasing shadows (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026_2026
The women’s peloton battles the Paterberg’s ferocious slopes (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)
aterberg, Tour of Flanders gallery 2026
Cresting the top – just the run-in to Oudenaarde to go now… (Image Credit: James Startt/InGamba)

Paris-based American photographer James Startt is one of the longest-serving cycling journalists in the press room, with almost four decades’ experience in the sport. He covered his 36th Tour de France last year and is a two-time winner at the World Sports Photography awards.

James currently serves as the creative director of luxury cycle tour operator inGamba. He spent the week leading up to the Ronde emulating the pros by testing himself on the cobbled bergs of Flanders – and doing his best to avoid half-wheeling Adrie van der Poel…