How do you start a new cycle clothing brand? Years of experience in the fashion industry with leading brands and a successful Kickstarter campaign worked for Spokesman's Nathan Gibbons.
Spokesman Clothing is one of the newest cycle clothing brands in the UK. The company launched following a Kickstarter campaign at the end of 2014 when, frustrated at the high prices charged by lots of cycling brands, founder Nathan Gibbons decided to develop his own clothing range that focused on quality but without the premium price tags.
The company is based in Leeds and has in a very short space of time built up a large collection of clothing, available in a growing number of bike shops, especially in the Yorkshire area. Spokesman had just signed up with CycleSurgery when we spoke which will increase its availability.
We caught up with founder Nathan to talk about what has been involved in starting his own cycle clothing business, as well as taking a first look at some of his key products. We’ve also got some of the clothing in for review.
What inspired you to start Spokesman?
I have always been a cyclist, and have always worked in clothing design and production. I became obsessed with creating my own cycling clothing brand
What is unique about Spokesman clothing?
Having a foundation in the clothing industry seems to be unique, our garments fit perfectly because I am a trained pattern cutter. Most start-ups just pick from the factory, off-the-shelf styles… and add sublimation
Spokesman has its own unique brand Identity, and we make original product.Take the Climbers jersey, the Top ten Climbs print on the inside is an original idea. It engages our customer as most cyclists have attempted one of those climbs. Our handwriting and the way we present the brand through our website is unique, it’s not the usual hackneyed pictures of a guy riding up the Stelvio Pass.
We are looking at Spokesman for the longterm,we have strong financial foundations and have invested in the right team.
What sets Spokesman apart?
We protect the retail price and we don't allow discounting. When a customer walks into an IBD (independent bicycle dealer), he can't go on his phone and view the ghost jacket at six different discounted price points. This has given us a really loyal following from the IBD’s, and we have opened 30 accounts in the first 12 months of trading
I have a lot of expertise in retailing clothing and we transfer this to the IBD’s through our stand-out Point of Sale and great staff training. We also have Demo Days, where we educate all the customers about the product. This has been a great success, the customers love to meet the guys behind it.
How would you define the Spokesman customer?
Our customer is a serious cyclist, who doesn’t take himself too seriously and who doesn't want to look like a Castelli Clone.
Where do you get the fabrics from?
Because the brand has integrity, we have forged relationships with fabric brands like eVent, Polartec, and Elastic interface whom we share similar brand values.
Where does the design inspiration come from?
I am inspired by cycling in the Yorkshire Dales, where it can be pouring with rain one minute and in the next valley bright sunshine. This provides great testing for the kit.
What challenges have you faced in setting up a cycle clothing company?
The first 9 months were hell. The factories were not interested in working with us and I couldn't get an appointment with a shop. Pedalsport and Green Jersey are two local shops that gave us a break and then it snowballed from there.
You’re stocked in CycleSurgery now, that must be a big confidence boost?
It is, the buying team took a great leap of faith buying an unknown brand, but it has been a great success in London,
Which garment are you most proud of?
Our Ghost jacket is a technical masterpiece, the fabric is ultra light like a second skin, yet fantastically breathable, waterproof and windproof.
What clothing developments do you have in the pipeline?
Each product must tick three boxes, technical innovation, look cool and tell a story, so for winter we have a windproof cross jersey with a waterproof back panel, to protect against the splash from the back wheel. It also has a print of the contours of the Dalby Forest.
We also have a winter jacket which uses the same membrane as the Ghost jacket but it’s a 2-layer fabric, and in the storm flap we have a collage of the best bikes from the sixties to the present day. We are also launching a mountain bike range
What does the future hold?
We are setting up distribution in Europe, the States and Australia, and ultimately to sponsor an international team
Four highlights from the Spokesman range
Let's take a little look at some of the highlights of the Spokesman clothing range. As mentioned already, we’ve got some of the clothing in for review so watch out for those in the coming weeks.
The Climbers Jersey (£80) is made from three fabrics to provide an aerodynamic fit, a performance stretch fabric fro the shoulders and back panels, a breathable mesh front panel, and mesh side sections. There are three pockets, generous reflective pixel fabric for visibility, and the jersey also offers a high UPV protection.
The Ghost Jacket (£155) is designed to offer a race cut, so it’s fitted and aerodynamic, and is constructed from a Stormshield fabric which is windproof and water resistant. There’s a dropped tail for extra rain protection, front zipped vents, three rear pockets plus one zipped pocket, and reflective details.
These Team Shorts (£100) have the very neat detail of a thick band of reflective glass particle material on the right leg. The shorts are made from a Power Lycra with a Cytech Deluxe padded insert, flat lock stitching, radio pocket and a mesh back panel.
The Pac Gilet (£80) should be ideal for the spring, with the 4-way stretch windproof and water resistant fabric dealing with any unexpected showers, and it can be packed away into a jersey pocket. As is clear from the other items in the Spokesman clothing range, there’s a real focus on adding reflective material without ruining the styling.
www.spokesmanclothing.com
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19 comments
Any more thoughts on this kit? Any reviews?
It's incredibly difficult getting LBS to start up accounts when the big boys are already in and the kit they sell goes so well. A leap in the dark sometimes. So kudos to spokesman for getting out there and getting in there.
Well one of my local IBSs has had their shop branded kit produced by Spokesman. It's a typical modern design but looks ace IMHO. The shop is Vekta Velosport in S-o-T if anyone is interested.
Apart from the Orange gilet - you've a black rainjacket and a tarmac coloured top there. The last colours I'd want to wear.
Plus I really thought this was something to do with Harmon the commentator - hasn't he been using the twitter name Spokesman for years already ?
Just back from a lovely spin and missed the rain. remember we all love cycling
FWIW Mike, 'Pattern Cutter' is a term of art - it's the person that designs the patterns for garments: the templates for all the pieces which are sewn together to create the finished item. Now for cheap off-the-shelf designs the different sizes are often created simply by creating a master pattern and scaling it up or down; a good pattern cutter will alter the designs for each size to ensure a better fit. Though you're often wielding tailor's shears at this point, it is vanishingly unlikely that Simon is cutting production garments himself.
Now this doesn't mean the same garment will fit a 60 kg racing snake and a 90 kg tourist, but a decent pattern cutter will know how eg the stretch in the fabric can be used to fit a wider range of folk well, or to minimise bunching and riding up once in an on-the-bike position.
Of course, as noted above, other premium brands (and even if this isn't quite Rapha &c prices, it's not exactly cheap) will also probably have decent cutters of their own...
Just had confirmation from Spokesman that the Spokeswoman women's range will be launching soon
https://twitter.com/vampercc/status/733271741875785728
www.vamper.cc
I can see that a Spokeswoman range must be planned from the menu on their website but there's no product. Any word on when it will be available? Bit disappointing to see a new road cycling brand launch without the women's range ready when it's such a huge growth market.
Might be better to not include the women's section on the site at this point rather than include it but have no stock - makes it seem like a bit of an afterthough...
Looking forward to seeing more though, always good to see a new British cycling brand pop up.
The Roadcc comments section: Your first stop for scorn and prejudice.
Look up 'scorn' or 'prejudice' - I think you'll find the above comments reflect neither. Personal opinion on design is exactly that. And statements regarding pricing or questioning of claims made in the interview are factual observations.
Fundamentally, being local doesn't exempt you from playing the ball, not the man.
Personally, I thought the first comment had more than an element of contempt in it - so scorn might be appropriate in part. And as for factual observations, he was promoting his goods with precisely the type of information mentioned in that comment and not just plugging his "brand by being negative about other brands". Speaking of which, where did the Rapha angle come from ? I didn't see any mention of them in the article or the original blurb for the kit. Can't say i'm too taken by the look of the kit, the price or the guys turn of phrase either, but I also think they're getting it a bit strong from some of the comments. Ah well, isn't it ever thus ?
Convoluted nonsense.
I'll keep it simple then. He promoted his stuff how you said one should bar one mention of people who might not want to be thought of as a "Castelli clone". He didn't mention Rapha, that's your invention. You didn't know what pattern cutter was but made a snide comment about it. He didn't say everyone else didn't have decent pattern cutters but merely that many start-ups would buy in the gament design and customise (that may or may not be true, but it's not what you were saying). The design is a matter of taste - not mine but i'll let others decide whether they like it or not or whether it's 'good'.
More nonsense.
Nah.
"our garments fit perfectly because I am a trained pattern cutter"
Stop right there Simon. Unless you are holding in your range about 50 different variants of each product, there is simply no way this statement holds water. Brands pick their fit - Castelli for whippets, dhb for the Sportive Gent (OK the new ASV stuff is racier), etc etc - and they market accordingly. There is no one brand that comes close to catering for everyone. I've sent back £150 bibs that have crucified me after 20 miles, yet can ride all day in something that's £50. Ditto jerseys - some cater for the broad of shoulder, long of body, wide of armspan - some don't. Hence why Wiggle/others are so hot on free returns - on-the-bike clothing fit is such a personal thing as the clothing is by its nature body-hugging.
...and what has ability to chop along a dotted line got to do with anything? I'd rather trust a laser-guided machine frankly. And surely how it's sewn together is the critical bit - or is Simon doing all that too?
All the above price points are 'premium', clearly.
Finally, unless I've missed something this is clearly blokes-only, from the name to the explicit language above. I get that, some may not.
Looking at the Spokesman website, it does look like there are plans for a women's range. It just hasn't launched yet. Would be nice to see some different language about their target customer though, it does seem as though the women's line must be a bit of an afterthought!
www.vamper.cc
"Frustrated at the high prices charged by lots of cycling brands, founder Nathan Gibbons decided to develop his own clothing range that focused on quality but without the premium price tags"
In my book £80 for a jersey is still very much so a premium price. I'm all for british companies producing decent gear but its not what I would consider afforadable unfortunatly.
Brand name, logo, design on the kit.. all looks very '10 minutes on Photoshop'. So many talented clothing designers and artists out there but people don't value them and don't hire them. Really sad.
If you have to plug your brand by being negative about other brands, then that's really telling. You should be able to say, our stuff looks amazing, designed by proper talent. Our stuff is the lightest, most aero, most comfortable. Our stuff is the result of xx months of the latest design philosophy etc. Or whatever.
But if you're coming out saying, don't buy Castelli or you'll look like a clone, or don't buy Rapha because their marketing is so hackneyed etc then well no actually, maybe I won't listen to you because you've nothing better to offer in leiu of all that.
Okay so he knows how to cut fabric. Well so do all trained pattern cutters. Is there a claim here that Rapha pattern cutters are less skilled than him for example? Why not hire a proper web designer to do a really lovely unique website? I can pull a template with better design off of Yootheme for hardly anything.
That said, maybe it does fit well, who knows. Personally I'd go for less of an Aldi look and step their game up a bit if they want people to pay 80 quid for a top.
Very critical comment of course and I have held back quite a bit only because it's a British brand and we need more of them. But please, hire decent designers.