[Bikepool]

Hi all,

I’m doing a multi day cycle event (for charity) from Monaco to Zurich over a couple of bumps but most noticeably the Stelvio (from Borneo) and am not sure whether to use 11-30 or 11-28 (alongside a 52-36). I am 85kg with an FTP of 300.

I have an 11-30 already fitted (which has got me up Sa Calobra, Puig Major, Coll D’Honor, Coll De Sóller and Ballon d’Alsace in real life).

I’m 40, have been cycling more than a decade and have had the privelege of doing Valley of The tears, pico de la nieves and mount teide in real life (not on an 11-30 as it was a hire bike) as well as alp du zwift (under an hour) and mont ventoux (under 90 mins) on zwift with a wattbike.

Why do I want to change to 11-28 you may well ask… Well……i purchased am OSPW (Ceramic) from Ribble for £35 before realising it only works with 11-28 (i.e not 11-30) and am attracted by the lower weight of 11-28 and the aesthetics of an OSPW (no idea if it works though).

https://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/level-ceramic-oversized-pulley-wheel-system-1/

Would appreciate any advice/guidance please??

Topic

[Cugel]

PRSboy wrote:

The reason it’s good to have say a 50/11 on a bike in the Alps is to give a bit of resistance on the long descents, if not at higher speeds but when cruising down shallower sections. Pedalling can really help to keep warm, and avoid the dreaded ‘heavy legs’ when you get to the next climb!

For keeping warm, I likes the clothes. On the other hand, spinning at 120 rpm will also tend to raise a sweat. 🙂

Consider the advantages of no 11, or even 12, sprocket – more actually usable sprockets for going up the hills, which takes far more time and effort than going down them, I notice. 

My own belief, all of which are infallible (oh yes they are!) is that 52X11 folk feel they need a top gear, like in their car, which they should get in as this is what you do with gears. I have seen some who use no other of their 22 gears, if they can help it, as being in “top” is regarded as cool or hot or summick.

 

[PRSboy]

The reason it’s good to have

The reason it’s good to have say a 50/11 on a bike in the Alps is to give a bit of resistance on the long descents, if not at higher speeds but when cruising down shallower sections. Pedalling can really help to keep warm, and avoid the dreaded ‘heavy legs’ when you get to the next climb!

[Dnnnnnn]

Not sure I’ve much to add to

Not sure I’ve much to add to this other than to agree with the others. You didn’t say specifically at what point the Stelvio appears in your schedule but with multi-day, multi-climb tours, it’s always worth erring on the cautious side. You might have a bad night’s sleep, dodgy dinner, the weather might be bad, etc. It’s not like a Sunday ride where you can skip it, shorten it, change the route or time…

[Daveyraveygravey]

I did the Stelvio from Bormio

I did the Stelvio from Bormio about 3 years ago, I think I would put it down as my favourite day ever on the bike!

I’m 80 kg, have a 52-36 and 11-30, I would have been 55 then.  Stick with the 11-30, you’ll be using it!  The hardest thing I found about the Stelvio was the top, the last 3-400 m of altitude nearly broke me.  I’m lucky enough to be able to do the Blockhaus in the Apenines quite often, which tops out at 2100m.  I’d never really thought about the thinner air going up there, but it seemed much more noticeable at the top of the Stelvio.

Take lots of kit.  I did it at the end of August, after a fortnight on the Adriatic beaches regularly at 35 degrees.  The Stelvio in Bormio was 6 degrees first thing in the morning!  I went in shorts and short sleeves, thinking I’d be climbing for 2-3 hours and would warm up, which was about ok.  I assumed by the time I came back down the day would have warmed up too, but it didn’t.  I took about 45 minutes to descend, teeth chattering all the way…

Also, the weather can be horrendous.  I tried to do it 2 years before, they have Stelvio day at the end of August, no cars after 8 am.  When the weather is nice, 10k plus ride or run or skate up.  The first time I tried, it rained all day the day before, and was actually snowing on the day itself.  They closed the road to all traffic about a third of the way up, but still circa 2000 folk braved the elements to go that far. 

 

[Inder]

It’s fine, feels a bit

It’s fine, feels a bit different than the standard one but I think that’s because there is less lateral movement in the guide pulley than the Shimano version. Feels a bit more like a Campagnolo rear shift.

[Bikepool]

Thank you all for your
Thank you all for your comments, I really appreciate you taking the time to share your advice and experiences. Such a wonderful community of like minded legends!

I have decided to leave the OSPW off the bike until after the event and use the existing 11-30 on (or possibly use an 11-32 from a winter bike). When I get back I’ll chuck an 11-28 on and fit the OSPW, should get me up most UK climbs I encounter.

Thanks again everyone.

[huntswheelers]

I’m on the tools…. and sort

I’m on the tools…. and sort a lot of Challenge bikes out … it depends on your ablilty plus if you have the route with the hills profile fot the route….  Then assess your ability and then check a couple of scenario’s on     http://www.gear-calculator.com/?GR=DERS&KB=24      including the tyre/wheel sizes. 

Input the fields with your proposed gearing’s and go from there. It’s easy to say go this or that cassette but sometimes dropping a front ring down say fro 52 to a 50 does it better……  Hope you find the answer

[mark1a]

Cugel wrote:

What does “a bit old” mean? Is there an obverse of “a bit young” and if so, what does that mean?  🙂

The highest gear of professional racer folk just 2 or 3 decades ago was 52X13 (a ratio of 4:1). 48X13 is not a lot lower.  Will the OP be riding at race pace (25- 27mph) on the not-climbing parts of that route? Or will he go a bit slower (not much) and admire the scenery?

Now, must I explain also that freewheeling downhill crouched over the bars with the knees tucked into the frame, rather than flailing about pedalling, will actually make you go faster than if you turn the cogs?

 

Ah yes, “a bit old” m’lud, I believe it’s used as vernacular for “a little tiresome”

Regarding your gearing, I bow to your own experience, however mine is that my gravel bike (48×11) will spin out on descents much more readily than my road bikes (mostly 52×11), so again, if it were me doing the ride, I would want the taller gearing for descents and maintaining a decent flat speed with sensible cadence, and the shorter gearing for Stelvio. I would live without the close ratio cogs.

 

[Cugel]

pkaro wrote:

Get an 11-32 or even better 11-34 and swap your 36 chainring for 34. 

The 11-34 cassettes unfortunately come with the cog toofs starting 11-13-15-17 whereas the 11-32s usually start 11-12-13-14 and maybe 15. The latter is better for the fitter cyclist as the one-tooth gap in those higher gears means you don’t have to increase or decrease your road speed by a large amount just to find your ideal cadence or anything near it. 

One tooth jumps in such high gears are a pain in the legs.

[Cugel]

mark1a wrote:

Cugel wrote:

… and install a 13-32 cassette with a 48/34 chainset. No silly big gears are needed as downhill and flat bits are where you need active rest in preparation for the next monster hill.

A slight flaw in that plan is that OP is riding from Monaco to Zürich, those ratios might get a bit old on much of the remaining -600km. 

What does “a bit old” mean? Is there an obverse of “a bit young” and if so, what does that mean?  🙂

The highest gear of professional racer folk just 2 or 3 decades ago was 52X13 (a ratio of 4:1). 48X13 is not a lot lower.  Will the OP be riding at race pace (25- 27mph) on the not-climbing parts of that route? Or will he go a bit slower (not much) and admire the scenery?

Now, must I explain also that freewheeling downhill crouched over the bars with the knees tucked into the frame, rather than flailing about pedalling, will actually make you go faster than if you turn the cogs?

 

[Bikepool]

That’s really interesting to
That’s really interesting to hear about it being used on the wild, thanks.

Is it okay shifting under load (I noted Terrence the tractors comment that they sometimes struggle) ?

[hawkinspeter]

bobbinogs wrote:

I’ve often regretted not having a lower gear to click to, I have never regretted having one and not using it.

However, my old MTB (mainly used for shopping) has now got its front derailleur a bit stuck due to lack of use. I can still get it to change, but it involves kicking it a few times until it’s in the right place.

[bobbinogs]

I’ve often regretted not

I’ve often regretted not having a lower gear to click to, I have never regretted having one and not using it.

[Inder]

I am currently using the

I am currently using the Ribble OSPW with a 53/39 chainset and 11-30 cassette with an R8000 medium cage rear derailleur. It works fine for me.

[mark1a]

Cugel wrote:

… and install a 13-32 cassette with a 48/34 chainset. No silly big gears are needed as downhill and flat bits are where you need active rest in preparation for the next monster hill.

A slight flaw in that plan is that OP is riding from Monaco to Zürich, those ratios might get a bit old on much of the remaining -600km. 

[Author]

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