Home

Hello,

here are the facts : I am attached my old roadbike but I am not flexible for it anymore.

I have another bike now more appropriated to my body now : gravel (Willier Jena).

but I still want to be able to use my former roadbike (emotional attachement). Over time, I have been gradually increase stem positive angle but I have maxed that out.

what would be the next step? Change the fork?

I do not find a lot of forks out there. I can imagine a reason for that is that it’s a not common operation : ruin the geometry, compatibility. 

I am ready to change this bike is a comfortable machine, I do not care about the look. 

Thanks for your help.

 

6 comments

Avatar
ktache [1564 posts] 2 months ago
0 likes

Have you thought about a steerer tube extender, just had a quick look and they aren't great looking, but practicality...

Avatar
Pilot Pete [132 posts] 2 months ago
0 likes

Or a high riser stem?

PP

Avatar
Remanv69 [3 posts] 2 months ago
0 likes

Thanks guys.

High rise stem - I got already something at 60 deg so probably wont get anymore leverage there. 

But this steerer tube extender is really fantastic. Probablt a visual insult for most of you out there...

and to round the subject a longer fork is something doable? Not even really sure there is a market for that, only finding ritchey standard forks so far.

Avatar
Tjaardbreeuwer [10 posts] 2 months ago
0 likes

Note not to use an extender on a carbon steerer. Even with an alloy steerer, I would be cautios of hard hits on the front wheel.

My first choice would be a Specialized Hover handlebar. This has rise built into it(3 difrent heights available).

A new fork won’t alter the geometry of you simply go for a longer steerer(more spacers under the stem). However, most frames and headsets recommend no more than about 40mm of spacerson top of the headset.
Lennard Zinn has forks with extra long and strong steerer tubes.

You could get a fork with slightly taller axle to crown height. This will raise the stack and shorten the reach. It will also slightly raise the bottom bracket and slacken the headangle, by about a degree for each 20mm.

Are you on a saddle that supports your sitbones and does not exert pressure on any soft tissue, especially on the nose of the saddle? If not, switching saddles will allow you to hinge at the hips, rather than arching your back.

As a final option, you can slide your saddle forward(and slightly up), this will open up your hip angle at the same handlebar height.

Avatar
BehindTheBikesheds [3147 posts] 2 months ago
0 likes
Tjaardbreeuwer wrote:

Note not to use an extender on a carbon steerer..

Why? A carbon steerer in a crash is more resiliant to the front on forces than a steel or alu one, so actually your thinking in that regard is incorrect.

If you check out why companies are using Carbon Fibre driveshafts for large engineering projects/powerplants instead of solid steel then you'll appreciate that carbon is actually the best material to reduce the chance of failure in many aspects (not all obviously). I was rear ended in a hit and run some 7 years back and the wheel got pringled but the beefy carbon stays of my commuter just shrugged it off. With alu/steel I'm certain the impact would have damaged the frame beyond repair.

Avatar
Remanv69 [3 posts] 2 months ago
1 like

thanks all for your help.

I just order a specialized  hover handle bar to gain a free 1.5cm  1