- This topic has 26 replies, 14 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 8 months ago by
Wilderbeest.
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CreatorTopic
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October 1, 2017 at 2:19 pm #27695
Big Jay
A creak down under is doing my nut in. BB is fine, pedals replaced, stem and seat post greased. It only appears in a very rhythmical grunt when going up hills (>4% +), stops when I free wheel and temporarily stops if I change up or down on the climb.
Please help this frustrated man.
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AuthorReplies
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Wilderbeest
Worth pointing out that I had
Worth pointing out that I had to buy a second bike and swap out parts one at a time to work out what the problem was….
Wilderbeest
I had same problem…creaking
I had same problem…creaking when under pressure.
left hand crank. Splines creaked when going uphill.
The _Kaner
There’s only one way to
There’s only one way to eliminate this untraceable noise. N+1.
Big Jay
Hey thanks for all the input
Hey thanks for all the input everyone, so far I’ve greased the pedals, tightened crank bolts, cleaned and greased the thru axles and cleaned the chain thoroughly and changed the lube from dry wax to wet lube. Took it for a 25k, 600m elevated ride and it was slick. I’m touching wood seems ok but will be out for longer tomorrow to see.
heres hoping
zzk
zzk
Need to be pragmatic:
Need to be pragmatic:
Eliminate cleats: get your trainers on and go ride up a hill. No squeak, not cleats
Tighten and grease chain ring bolts: easy done
Check chain for wear, clean and lube and try
Remove chainset: check BB for friction/ smooth running, lube surfaces, clean axle and tighten to ensure no play. Is it your shoe rubbing the crank arm
Front mech: position correct, no chain rub
Cassette: remove clean and make sure tight with no play
Headset: check on climbs, does it occur when just out the saddle or even when seated and hands rested on the tops
Wheels: check QRs/ axles for wear/ spoke tensions etc
Grease everything and anything. There was a good “creak” solving video on youtube sometime back, might be worth looking out.
My experience is that riding with a friend can help localising the problem. Even better is if you can reproduce the sounds on a turbo trainer you can save yourself a lot of time and noisy rides. Good luck. There will be a solution, but can take a while to cure.
zzk
Need to be pragmatic:
Need to be pragmatic:
Eliminate cleats: get your trainers on and go ride up a hill. No squeak, not cleats
Tighten and grease chain ring bolts: easy done
Check chain for wear, clean and lube and try
Remove chainset: check BB for friction/ smooth running, lube surfaces, clean axle and tighten to ensure no play. Is it your shoe rubbing the crank arm
Front mech: position correct, no chain rub
Cassette: remove clean and make sure tight with no play
Headset: check on climbs, does it occur when just out the saddle or even when seated and hands rested on the tops
Wheels: check QRs/ axles for wear/ spoke tensions etc
Grease everything and anything. There was a good “creak” solving video on youtube sometime back, might be worth looking out.
My experience is that riding with a friend can help localising the problem. Even better is if you can reproduce the sounds on a turbo trainer you can save yourself a lot of time and noisy rides. Good luck. There will be a solution, but can take a while to cure.
zzk
Need to be pragmatic:
Need to be pragmatic:
Eliminate cleats: get your trainers on and go ride up a hill. No squeak, not cleats
Tighten and grease chain ring bolts: easy done
Check chain for wear, clean and lube and try
Remove chainset: check BB for friction/ smooth running, lube surfaces, clean axle and tighten to ensure no play. Is it your shoe rubbing the crank arm
Front mech: position correct, no chain rub
Cassette: remove clean and make sure tight with no play
Headset: check on climbs, does it occur when just out the saddle or even when seated and hands rested on the tops
Wheels: check QRs/ axles for wear/ spoke tensions etc
Grease everything and anything. There was a good “creak” solving video on youtube sometime back, might be worth looking out.
My experience is that riding with a friend can help localising the problem. Even better is if you can reproduce the sounds on a turbo trainer you can save yourself a lot of time and noisy rides. Good luck. There will be a solution, but can take a while to cure.
pwake
If you’re convinced it’s in
If you’re convinced it’s in the BB/crank area, then you’re probably right. You orginally said the BB was fine, but you’re dealing with a press-fit BB here, one of the worst ‘innovations’ of recent years. I recently had a similar experience with a BB386 EVO and changed out for a Wheels Manufacturing threaded replacement; no more creaks.
Not saying this is the case here, but maybe.
nniff
Tighten up the rear QR. If it
Tighten up the rear QR. If it’s a Ti one, get a steel one, grease it and do it up tight. I had a problem – wrongly diagnosed as spoke tension – not that. Changed the skewers to Hope from Ti Planet X and the problem went.
Big Jay
thanks I’ll get the LBS to check the hub, not letting me loose on themRMurphy195 wrote:I had this a couple ofyears ago on a fairly-new bike equipped with Mavic Aksium disc wheels. Turned out to be the hub on the rear wheel is made of of a number of parts – 3 I think I was told – that are bonded together. And the bonding had failed on the rear hub. Replaced under warranty, no problem since (so far!)Deatils in these links
https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=105798&p=1009113&hilit=creak#p1009113
https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104561&p=995118&hilit=creak#p995118
Big Jay
haha! Thanks man, I will get to the bottom of this. I am convinced it’s in the BB / crank but currently working through the listsimonmb wrote:Big Jay wrote:
thanks I’m looking later, would that explain the noise easing off very temporarily when changing up or down gears?simonmb wrote:I had something similar. Checked everything and couldn’t clear it. Well. Hadn’t checked the rear dropout though, because that’s what. Tightened up the screw fixing it to the frame, job done.Could well do. the creaking disappeared each time i took pressure off the pedals. We’re a bit of a poor man’s CSI:road.cc here without even a body to dissect though.
Let us know how it goes. We’re with you brother.
RMurphy195
I had this a couple ofyears
I had this a couple ofyears ago on a fairly-new bike equipped with Mavic Aksium disc wheels. Turned out to be the hub on the rear wheel is made of of a number of parts – 3 I think I was told – that are bonded together. And the bonding had failed on the rear hub. Replaced under warranty, no problem since (so far!)
Deatils in these links
https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=105798&p=1009113&hilit=creak#p1009113
https://forum.cyclinguk.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=104561&p=995118&hilit=creak#p995118
simonmb
Big Jay wrote:
thanks I’m looking later, would that explain the noise easing off very temporarily when changing up or down gears?simonmb wrote:I had something similar. Checked everything and couldn’t clear it. Well. Hadn’t checked the rear dropout though, because that’s what. Tightened up the screw fixing it to the frame, job done.Could well do. the creaking disappeared each time i took pressure off the pedals. We’re a bit of a poor man’s CSI:road.cc here without even a body to dissect though.
Let us know how it goes. We’re with you brother.
Big Jay
thanks I’m looking later, would that explain the noise easing off very temporarily when changing up or down gears?simonmb wrote:I had something similar. Checked everything and couldn’t clear it. Well. Hadn’t checked the rear dropout though, because that’s what. Tightened up the screw fixing it to the frame, job done. -
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