- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
forum
Tubeless tyres popping off - DT swiss valve leak?
Hi all,
Just went out to garage and front tyre was almost flat, rear tyre totally flat and had popped off the bead. Thankfully popped back on with track pump.
Schwalbe Pro Ones 25mm on 18mm internal DT Swiss tubeless ready rims.
DT Swiss tubeless tape and valves. Put in 50ml of Stans sealant. Left them with 110psi in to help tyre stay on rim.
Tyres went on last weekend, front one track pump and rear one with compressor. Did an hour ride the next day, the front had lost 20 psi that first night but rear was still perfect.
I think I am losing pressure around the valves with tiny leak, have tried them pinch tight and also really tight. The sealant doesn't seep out anywhere but guess is hard to get sealant around the valve being on inside of rim.
Anything I can do to get them seal better or any other valve options?
If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.
Latest Forum Topics
Latest Comments
- E6toSE3 7 hours 5 min ago
Seriously, in both cases, treat vehicle as depreciating asset. £1,000 bike has a resale value. Cost per year is the depreciation you allot. Say ...
- E6toSE3 7 hours 31 min ago
True. Daughter's bike was stolen by railings like in picture being cut. Cordless angle grinders get through cast iron very easily for very little cost
- Rendel Harris 8 hours 8 min ago
Your stupid trolling has been, thus far, tiresome, but in trying to leverage the tragic death of an innocent gentleman in your efforts to parody a...
- Car Delenda Est 9 hours 8 min ago
looking on streetview i see an unused wasteland of parking spaces outside of people's driveways....
- NOtotheEU 9 hours 47 min ago
Sometimes (depending on where you live) but a driving course or 3 points when potentially they could have killed someone is pretty trivial. ...
- alvinlwh 10 hours 26 min ago
I thought UK is the only country in the world that hates cyclists.
- mikeyboy247 12 hours 49 min ago
Except Bikeinn are not allowed to ship Garmin to uk!!! so really great offer unless you are in UK!
- giff77 13 hours 54 sec ago
Come now. You can do much better than that. 3 out of 10 for trolling.
- dubwise 13 hours 32 min ago
Heartbreaking news, so young so much to live for. My heartfelt condolences to her family, friends and team mates.
- slc 15 hours 33 min ago
Looking forward to not queueing/filtering round bedminster bridges.
Add new comment
12 comments
I fitted Stan's valves and solved it, as I posted above.
3 months and many miles later still fine.
After more than 6 months of using Dt Swiss RR21 wheelset, I noticed that my tubeless setup was leaking air at the point where the valve sticks out of the wheel. I tried tightening the nut but the air still came out. After few days trying to solve it, I noticed that the air leaks through the tape and spoke holes. Once air goes into the spoke holes, no matter how much you tigthen the valve nut, it will still leak air. Remove the old tape and apply the new one. When applying the new tape make sure that the tape is offset a bit if the spoke holes are offset from the center.
Swapped to Stan valves and got tyres onto my rim braked bike for summer. The DT valves wouldn't seal on these due to curve but also noticed that valve hole is slighyly oversized.
Either way on both sets of DT rims the Stans valves fit better and sealed first time.
One tyre was a shit to fit (compressor, soapy water and lots of swearing), the other went on again dry with a track pump.
I really only did it as have 3 sets of tubeless ready DT rims, they had come with tape and valves, I've got a compressor, and Schwalbe Pro Ones were same price as Schwalbe Ones.
The Schwalbe Ones blew me away after using Contis before, but the Pro Ones offer another big step up in comfort.
Still running them at 110psi as a little paranoid about bead popping off, but the feel is comparable to a 17mm internal rim a Schwalbe extra light tube with 25mm One @ 80/85 psi.
They really are that comfortable and grip is increasing with each KM.
I'm not a convert, but that's purely down to the valves at the moment - once find one that fits better I'll be pretty happy.
Sorry about this Mike the Bike - it's nothing personal...., Burn the heretic - Burn the heretic - Burn the heretic.....
Think have sussed it, only bit of time will tell.
When first fitted them it was near zero, the Stans sealant felt slimey / slippery. Today whipped out valve cores and topped up sealant, was about 10 degrees and the sealant was sticky. Wondering if Stan doesn't like the cold, bit of comparative warmth helped it.
And yes these DT swiss valves seem badly thought out, and don't seal well with the curves shape of the rim. They would never seal on rim brake DT Swiss rims on the other bike (which are also tubeless ready).
I've 3 set of wheels in tubeless. One set is completely immune to air loss after months another pair last a few months before pressure dips. I have a pair which are new and need a little topping up, but I know this will settle down after a few rides. I was abroad recently and had a slow puncture, but allowed me to ride for 10 miles re inflate and had no further problems.
I know I will get shouted at but this is yet another story that makes me so glad I haven't yet taken the plunge with tubeless. I'm convinced the technology is not yet ready for the market and I'm hanging on for some huge leap forward in tyre sealing.
No shouting here mate
Seriously, tubeless nowadays mostly just works. Buy a tubeless wheelset and you avoid all sealing issues. tubeless tyres are now pretty much the same weight as their tubed siblings. Performance is provably better. Flats are pretty much a thing of the past, and major punctures either seal themselves or can be repaired in seconds using the awesome Slime Tubeless Repair Kit http://road.cc/content/review/183575-genuine-innovations-tubeless-tire-r...
There's no waiting for tubeless to be 'ready for the market'. It's here. It works.
Check that you still have a decent amount of sealant (first install will have a good deal of it absorbed into the tyre). Also check that you haven't misplaced the little rubber o-ring that goes under the valve nut. Having said that I absolutely hate DT Swiss valves. I had one I couldn't seal no matter how tight I did the valve nut, replaced it with a Stan's valve, problem fixed.
Yup that's basically what I did, even shook the wheels with valve at lowest point to try and spread sealant around them.
I use Stan's tape, clean all surfaces with degreaser/brake clean. Also use soapy water around bead when first install, aids bead seal. When installing valve make a small 'X' shape in tape with sharp knife. Press valve firmly into place and thread locking on tight. Any gaps will be sealed by sealant. I also roll wheel around all directions for 5 mins after new install.