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Wheel upgrade advice

Morning All, 

 

3 months ago I replaced my old winter bike for a Planet X Pro Carbon Ultegra build and I am delighted with the bike but I would like to change the wheels for something a little better soon. 

 

It has on it Shimano RS010 wheels fitted at present and I am considering upgrading to the Ultegra 6800 wheels to bring them in line with the group. 

 

Wiggle have those curently at £275 and that would probably be all I would want to spend on a new wheelset, does anyone run these and what is the general view on them? Also would anyone reccomend anything different/better instead at a similar price range? 

 

I have not upgraded a wheelset before on any of my bikes so have no experience as such of doing so, your comments will be greatly appreciated. 

Cheers 

Dan 

If you're new please join in and if you have questions pop them below and the forum regulars will answer as best we can.

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17 comments

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Welsh boy | 7 years ago
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Have a look at the Cosine range from Wiggle, i have 2 pairs and am very impressed with them

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Stef Marazzi | 7 years ago
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Yep. Campag Zondas and Fulcrum 3 are the exact same wheel with a slightly different spoke pattern. Buy whichever is best value.

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drosco | 7 years ago
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My mate has the exact same bike and went for Zondas. He's delighted with them.

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Exup | 7 years ago
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I have pre C17 Zondas and they are very good. I also have RS81s and they are also good, but in my opinion not worth the premium over the Zondas.
Also, I believe the Zondas are very similar to Fulcrum 3s; probably because they come from the same company.

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Anthony.C | 7 years ago
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I forgot to say the ultegra rims are prety narrow and mine rode horribly with a 25 mm clincher.

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Swiss | 7 years ago
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I have had the same set for 2 years and even swapped them with the fulcrum s on the new bike . No problems with them so far. I find them to have better hubs than most and the best skewers by far. Maybe they are a bit boring to look at for some and a bit too quiet when freewheeling for others. Oh and I have continental gp4000iis tyres on as well which fit fine if you take care pushing them in.

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kevvjj | 7 years ago
1 like

These are great wheels. You don't need anything to convert them to tubeless, they even come with the tubeless valves (and a freewheel spacer if you are running 10 speed). I have hammered mine for 18 months on all sorts of surfaces, especially the local Surrey lanes - a true testament of their build quality. They are as true as the day they were purchased. I have run a small number of different tyres on them including tubeless (my current setup). Never have I had any issues getting tyres on and off even when running tubes. If you know how to do it properly you should have no issues. For the price they are light at 1680g. They are stiff and responsive. Your money would be well spent. If you are a member of British Cycling you will get 10% off at Chain Reaction (even if already discounted). In a word, bargain.

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matthewn5 | 7 years ago
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I had those Ultegra wheels and was distinctly unimpressed. They're not light and they weren't very stiff. They had a dull heavy feel to them.

I'd recommend you go for Fulcrum Racing 3, they're much stiffer and lighter - both differences you'll really feel on the bike. You can pull off the stickers if you don't want them. They're basically Campag Zondas but with more regularly-spaced spokes. Both are absolutely excellent wheels for the price and hold their value pretty well.

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danleb85 replied to matthewn5 | 7 years ago
1 like
matthewn5 wrote:

I had those Ultegra wheels and was distinctly unimpressed. They're not light and they weren't very stiff. They had a dull heavy feel to them.

I'd recommend you go for Fulcrum Racing 3, they're much stiffer and lighter - both differences you'll really feel on the bike. You can pull off the stickers if you don't want them. They're basically Campag Zondas but with more regularly-spaced spokes. Both are absolutely excellent wheels for the price and hold their value pretty well.

I'll check these fulcrum out cheers and yes, I'd probably want to de sticker them.

I do love the naked carbon look on the PX pro carbon, wasn't sure when I ordered it but it's lovely looking. I've been finding it hard to find a suitably non descript bidon for it as well lol!

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danleb85 | 7 years ago
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Thanks for the replies all.

I will check out the campy wheels as well.

Tbh, I hadn't actually considered going tubeless but if the wheels I am considering have that as an option it's worth looking at as well I guess seeing as the aim of the upgrade is to get somewhere near a nice silky rolling wheel it makes sense, thanks for the info!

With tubeless am I right in thinking a puncture = new tyre?

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CXR94Di2 replied to danleb85 | 7 years ago
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danleb85 wrote:

Thanks for the replies all.

I will check out the campy wheels as well.

Tbh, I hadn't actually considered going tubeless but if the wheels I am considering have that as an option it's worth looking at as well I guess seeing as the aim of the upgrade is to get somewhere near a nice silky rolling wheel it makes sense, thanks for the info!

With tubeless am I right in thinking a puncture = new tyre?

No, tiny punctures will self seal, carry on riding, usually you won't notice anything with thorn type punctures. If it goes down slowly add a little more sealant through valve stem. Pinch flats are virtually eliminated because of no inner tube. Tubeless isn't perfect but I've been running 3 sets of wheels and had no repairs to do to any of them. Big cuts are either ditch tyre or then decide to run an inner tube. You can also add sealant inside the inner tube. The advantage tubeless gives is low rolling resistance.

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danleb85 replied to CXR94Di2 | 7 years ago
1 like
CXR94Di2 wrote:
danleb85 wrote:

Thanks for the replies all.

I will check out the campy wheels as well.

Tbh, I hadn't actually considered going tubeless but if the wheels I am considering have that as an option it's worth looking at as well I guess seeing as the aim of the upgrade is to get somewhere near a nice silky rolling wheel it makes sense, thanks for the info!

With tubeless am I right in thinking a puncture = new tyre?

No, tiny punctures will self seal, carry on riding, usually you won't notice anything with thorn type punctures. If it goes down slowly add a little more sealant through valve stem. Pinch flats are virtually eliminated because of no inner tube. Tubeless isn't perfect but I've been running 3 sets of wheels and had no repairs to do to any of them. Big cuts are either ditch tyre or then decide to run an inner tube. You can also add sealant inside the inner tube. The advantage tubeless gives is low rolling resistance.

This is really helpful, thanks and based on what you have said and I'll do a little more reading up as well I think whatever wheels I do decide to go for will more than likely be shod in tubeless tyres.

I'm trying to push forward in my winter training (more structure, proper rest etc), equipment (not necessarily higher cost but for the right purpose etc) and everything else this year, I've always been hugely into my riding but taking everything a little step forward hence looking into wheels etc. Previously I wouldn't have been that bothered especially so on my winter bike. It is a little off topic but I have half an eye on training up to enter into some lower cat races next season, have always wanted to but never been bold enough or structured enough to do myself justice I don't think. I'm fit and pretty fast but endurance and the fineries need work.

So wheels I know are pretty standard upgrade fayre but it feels like an important step for me this yr so really appreciate the advice.

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hawkinspeter | 7 years ago
2 likes

I'm running these at the moment and I like them. I've only just started running tubeless on the rear one  and it works a treat. Initially, I struggled with getting tyres on and off these wheels, but I found a technique that makes it a lot easier. Move all of the tyre beads towards the centre of the rim which gives the tyre just enough room to make all the difference.

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CXR94Di2 | 7 years ago
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Ultegra look good wheels for the price. I've seen them a little cheaper, just search. If you go tubeless, I would recommend 'stans' rim tape and sealant, it's excellent at ensuring a good seal. Tubeless tyres are no more difficult to fit than most normal clinchers.

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Anthony.C | 7 years ago
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I had the rear ultegra for a while and had a real nightmare getting tyres on and off it. I now know that anything tubeless compatible is likely to be harder to get clinchers on and off. Campy Zondas C 17 might be worth considering, they are very popular.

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TypeVertigo | 7 years ago
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I believe the WH-6800 Ultegra wheels you were eyeing are tubeless-ready, too. Just in case you were eyeing that particular tire option.

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sergius | 7 years ago
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I swapped the R501s on my winter bike for some RS31s.

 

It's a fairly simple process, but you do need a chain-whip and a Shimano/SRAM cassette tool to fit it yourself.  Your cassette is newish so you may as well just swap it across, plenty of videos on youtube if you can't work it out.

 

You'll likely need to reindex the RD after the swap, and possibly adjust your brake calipers - but nothing major.

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