- News
- Reviews
- Bikes
- Accessories
- Accessories - misc
- Computer mounts
- Bags
- Bar ends
- Bike bags & cases
- Bottle cages
- Bottles
- Cameras
- Car racks
- Child seats
- Computers
- Glasses
- GPS units
- Helmets
- Lights - front
- Lights - rear
- Lights - sets
- Locks
- Mirrors
- Mudguards
- Racks
- Pumps & CO2 inflators
- Puncture kits
- Reflectives
- Smart watches
- Stands and racks
- Trailers
- Clothing
- Components
- Bar tape & grips
- Bottom brackets
- Brake & gear cables
- Brake & STI levers
- Brake pads & spares
- Brakes
- Cassettes & freewheels
- Chains
- Chainsets & chainrings
- Derailleurs - front
- Derailleurs - rear
- Forks
- Gear levers & shifters
- Groupsets
- Handlebars & extensions
- Headsets
- Hubs
- Inner tubes
- Pedals
- Quick releases & skewers
- Saddles
- Seatposts
- Stems
- Wheels
- Tyres
- Health, fitness and nutrition
- Tools and workshop
- Miscellaneous
- Cross country mountain bikes
- Tubeless valves
- Buyers Guides
- Features
- Forum
- Recommends
- Podcast
Add new comment
9 comments
I've not managed to puncture Gatorskins or Top Kontakts in 10,000 miles of commuting through London. Keep the pressures up.
Go for better tyres. Then you don't need to put that stuff inside and the bike will roll much better.
Bontrager Race Lite Hardcase. Good speed for such a resilient tyre and not particularly heavy. My choice for 700c.
Schwalbe Marathon Plus
Specialized Nimbus Armadillo
Expensive brand name ones I've had nothing but problems with. The Halfords own brand cheapies though, they work very well.
You hear 'pooosh' as you get a puncture, then 'poosh, poosh posh pss pss ps nothng' as it seals up. The secret with sealing tyres though, is DON'T STOP WHEN YOU HEAR A PUNCTURE. You need to keep the wheel rotatting.
I found if you have the valve at the 10 to 2 or 12 o'clock position the valve seems to stay clear when sticking air in.....the slime moves down the tube...
Always seems to block up when the valve is set low.....
You buy them with the green gunge inside them already. It just leaks out when you release any air from the tyre and then sticks up the valve.
You buy them with the green gunge inside them already. It just leaks out when you release any air from the tyre and then sticks up the valve.
I converted my rear wheel to tubeless - no punctures for the past year. Although at the same time I changed to a Kevlar belted tyre, so I'm unsure what's had the biggest effect, likely that - but if and when it does puncture, the slime inside should get me home.
After years of trusting to tubeless tyres on motorcycles and cars, I saw no reason to distrust them on bicycles, with the same setup.
There was one thing I did find on a motorcycle - a tube with slime in it doesn't seal at all well and only if you're lucky will it allow you to carry on. A tubeless one with slime in will just work.
Were you using the can of Dr Sludge to fill the tubes you had in already??
BAD MOVE
Buy the pre lined tubes
But as said above, I'd be getting (better) puncture resistant tyres
No experience of filled tubes but I'd recommend better tyres. I have a similar commute and use scwalbe duranos on my road bike or marathons on my hybrid and while I get a lot of cuts from the glass its rare that I get a p******e.
It doesn't take that much longer to swap out a tube than to pump up a tyre anyway.