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Kona Dew Drop 2010

Kona Dew Drop

7
by rob_simmonds
UPDATED Thu, Oct 15, 2015 04:24

First Published May 11, 2010

7
£635.18

VERDICT:

7
10
Versatile, charming, well priced if hefty drop bar + disc braked all rounder
Weight: 
12,400g
Contact: 
www.paligapltd.co.uk
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This drop barred version of Kona's classic Dew is a great, if hefty, do-anything bike built around Avid's brilliant BB7 brakes.

At road.cc we usually review bikes that distributors send us. I've been after a Dew Drop to cast an eye over for some time now but as I'm the impatient type I took advantage of our work's Cyclescheme and went shopping instead.

Kona's website doesn't tell you anything sensible about what the Dew Drop is for, but one look at the overbuilt frame, disc brakes and drops and it practically screams 'light tourer/sturdy commuter'. That's pretty much what I bought it for and the £650 price sits well under the Cyclescheme limit.

The USP of the Dew Drop is the Avid disc brakes. Discs are a great advantage on crappy Devon lanes and the BB7s stop on a sixpence. They have dials on the front and back of the pistons so they're dead easy to set, way easier than V brakes or regular calipers. A drop bar bike with discs is a rare beast indeed. I can only think of a few others, the Marin Toscana, Genesis Croix de Fer, Trek Portland or the Salsa Fargo and they are all a lot more expensive.

The compact frame is standard across the whole Dew range and it's a hefty piece of kit with more than a nod to Kona's mountain bike heritage. Made from 7005 aluminium the tubes are enormous and very, very stiff. Happily the long seat post and fat tyres take the sting out of what could otherwise be a very harsh ride.

Kona have taken notice of grumbles about the 09 model and moved the rear disc tabs from the seat stays down to the chain stays. This clears the way for fitting a regular rack as opposed to a disc specific rack. That said, of the two holes drilled to take a rack and mudguards, only one is actually usable. The top hole is far too close to the metal of the seat stay to allow a rack or mudguard. It's not insurmountable, you'll just have to put the rack and mudguards on top of each other, but it's an annoying flaw and one that could have been avoided with just a little thought and 5mm more metal on the tab. Having to stretch the rack over the mudguard loops also makes it much harder to cleanly insert the bolts when fitting the rack and, having removed the rack a couple of times, the soft aluminium thread inside the eyelet has already rounded off which meant a trip to the LBS to have it re-tapped. Very annoying indeed...

Spec-wise you get modest branded kit. Sora levers are a well known budget favourite, as is the Deore rear mech. Bars, stem and saddle are Kona's own and work perfectly well. There certainly isn't anything there that needs changing and putting more exotic kit on a meat and spuds bike like this would be pointless anyway. The tyres are about the only thing that I'd change as they feel sluggish and slow, but even then I'll wait until they wear out. I did raise an eyebrow at the huge 34t Megarange sprocket on the back. It looked a bit too civilian for a gnarly old hand like me, but on the March Hare audax I was damned grateful for it and if I was hauling luggage or a trailer then all such snobbery would evaporate completely. So far I've rattled out over 600 miles and nothing has broken or caused any grumbles.

Overall this a sturdy and thoroughly likeable workhorse of a bike. It isn't fast and it's not in the same league as the likes of the Salsa Fargo that the inhabitants of road.cc Towers have been drooling over of late but it does a grand job for a lot less money.

Verdict

If the Dew Drop was a horse it would be a Shire, or possibly a Clydesdale. Hefty but with a great ride and a charm all of it's own. Shame about the poorly designed rear eyelets though.

road.cc test report

Make and model: Kona Dew Drop

Size tested: 52cm

About the bike

State the frame and fork material and method of construction. List the components used to build up the bike.

Frame tubing: Kona 7005 Aluminum Butte

Fork: Kona P2 700C

Headset: TH

Crankarms: FSA Alpha Drive (45-54=170, 56-62=175mm)

Chainrings: 48/38/28

B/B: RPM 7420

Pedals: Wellgo LU-A9 / Xerama SP-50

Chain : KMC Z-72

Freewheel: Shimano HG40 (11-34, 8spd)

F/D Shimano

R/D: Shimano Deore

Shifters: Shimano

Handlebar: Kona Sweeper (31.8mm x 620mm Wide)

Grips: Velo Wrap Gel

Brakes: Avid BB7

Brake: Levers Shimano

Front hub: Formula Disc

Rear hub: Shimano M475 Disc

Spokes: Sandvik Stainless 15g fr/14g rr

Tires: Continental CountryRide 700x37C

Rims: Alex DC25

Saddle: Kona Comfort

Seatpost: Kona Road

Seat clamp: Kona QR

Colour: Metallic Black or Matte Black

Tell us what the bike is for, and who it's aimed at. What do the manufacturers say about it? How does that compare to your own feelings about the bike?

Kona say- "Now things are getting serious. You've got some miles to bang off, and it better be quick. Take the paradigm shifting frames of the Dew series, throw on drop bars for road bike like posture and speed, toss in Avid road disc brakes for control, long-lasting durability and stopping power on the mean, wet streets of the inner city. You're hardcore, your bike is your chariot, and we're feeling wonderfully fantastic to have made it for you"

Thanks for that guys, I'll just go translate marketing burble into English shall I?! I'd guess that a bike like this is going to be primarily for light touring, commuting and load hauling.

Frame and fork

Overall rating for frame and fork
 
7/10

Tell us about the build quality and finish of the frame and fork?

The P2 fork is an old favourite, tried and trusted. The frame is good, but the paint has already rubbed off one of the seat stays where a pannier bottom has chafed it.

Tell us about the materials used in the frame and fork?

Steel fork, massively oversized 7005 aluminium for the frame.

Tell us about the geometry of the frame and fork?

Relaxed and steady. No twitchy racing angles here!

How was the bike in terms of height and reach? How did it compare to other bikes of the same stated size?

Despite being a 54" frame it has a very small cockpit. That's not a problem but the riding position is very upright and I ended up flipping the stem to drop the bars a little.

Riding the bike

Was the bike comfortable to ride? Tell us how you felt about the ride quality.

It's a lovely ride, helped by the upright riding position, long seat post and fat tyres. The short cockpit pretty much forces you onto the drops, which isn't a bad thing as they fall nicely to hand and the extra bar length helps to take the sting out of crappy roads.

Did the bike feel stiff in the right places? Did any part of the bike feel too stiff or too flexible?

The tubes are huge, especially the head tube, which adds up to a very stiff frame. Even with a couple of panniers on the back it doesn't flex.

How did the bike transfer power? Did it feel efficient?

It's not a speed machine but if you're hauling luggage it's as stiff as you need.

Was there any toe-clip overlap with the front wheel? If so, was it a problem?

No problem, even with mudguards.

How would you describe the steering? Was it lively, neutral or unresponsive? It's neutral and very stable.

Tell us some more about the handling. How did the bike feel overall? Did it do particular things well or badly?

You never feel like you're astride a thoroughbred but the stable handling is reassuring and designed for load hauling and long distance touring. Unladen it's not a sparkling ride, but that's what race bikes are for.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's comfort? would you recommend any changes?

I thought I would need to swap the saddle but it's actually very comfortable. I did flip the stem to drop the bars slightly but I wouldn't swap out any of the components.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's stiffness? would you recommend any changes?

No, it's a good balance of very stiff frame with 'soft' components like the long stem and tyres which take the edge of the frame's harshness.

Which components had the most effect (good or bad) on the bike's efficiency? would you recommend any changes?

The tyres help with comfort but they are slow and a little dead in feel. The Conti City Contacts fitted to the Kona Ute I tested last year were much better.

Rate the bike for efficiency of power transfer:
 
7/10

Ideal for a load hauler

Rate the bike for acceleration:
 
6/10

Pretty glacial but the tyres don't help

Rate the bike for sprinting:
 
5/10

Even the Manx Missile would struggle on this beast

Rate the bike for high speed stability:
 
9/10
Rate the bike for cruising speed stability:
 
9/10
Rate the bike for low speed stability:
 
9/10
Rate the bike for flat cornering:
 
6/10
Rate the bike for cornering on descents:
 
7/10
Rate the bike for climbing:
 
7/10

It's not a climber, but the tiny 28/34 bottom gear should get you up almost anything.

The drivetrain

Rate the drivetrain for performance:
 
8/10

Solid and reliable kit

Rate the drivetrain for durability:
 
8/10
Rate the drivetrain for weight:
 
7/10
Rate the drivetrain for value:
 
8/10

Tell us some more about the drivetrain. Anything you particularly did or didn't like? Any components which didn't work well together?

The cassette goes from 11t through to a huge 34t using only 8 sprockets. It's very gappy and finding the right gear can be a bit of a challenge. Having said that, the 34t came in useful on a recent audax, so I wouldn't lose it!

Wheels and tyres

Rate the wheels and tyres for performance:
 
8/10

Good strong wheels, the rim wear indicator is a nice touch on disc wheels!

Rate the wheels and tyres for durability:
 
8/10

They should last ages

Rate the wheels and tyres for weight:
 
6/10

I haven't weighed them, but you can feel that these are built for comfort, not for speed

Rate the wheels and tyres for comfort:
 
9/10
Rate the wheels and tyres for value:
 
7/10

Tell us some more about the wheels and tyres.Did they work well in the conditions you encountered? Would you change the wheels or tyres? If so, what for?

You could certainly build up something lighter, when they finally wear out, but these aren't out of place on a bike like this. The real weakness is the tyres. They feel slow and dead and I suspect that a change of tyre would make a big difference to the way the bike handles. The front wheel was out of true by a couple of mm, easily fixed, and I tightened up the rear wheel which was built quite soft.

Controls

Rate the controls for performance:
 
8/10
Rate the controls for durability:
 
8/10
Rate the controls for weight:
 
8/10
Rate the controls for comfort:
 
7/10

Sora type levers aren't my favourite but they work well enough

Rate the controls for value:
 
8/10

Tell us some more about the controls. Any particularly good or bad components? How would the controls work for larger or smaller riders?

Sora style levers aren't my favourite. The sweep of the big lever is very, very long which might be an issue for some and the thumb lever is only reachable from the drops if you perfect the 'Sora thumb lunge'. I'd prefer Tiagra but I've learned to live with Sora, they do the job well enough and they're a reliable choice.

Anything else you want to say about the componentry? Comment on any other components (good or bad)

It's modest but respectable. The highlight is the Avid BB7 mechanical discs, which are great.

Your summary

Did you enjoy riding the bike? Yes - 1000 miles so far and counting...

Would you consider buying the bike? I already have!

Would you recommend the bike to a friend? Yes

Rate the bike overall for performance:
 
8/10
Rate the bike overall for value:
 
7/10

Anything further to say about the bike in conclusion?

Nice bike and very versatile. The only let down is the poor design of the rear eyelets.

Overall rating: 7/10

About the tester

Age: 40  Height: 5\' 8  Weight: er....86kg

I usually ride: GT Rave - singlespeed conversion  My best bike is: Guess SC1 scandium

I've been riding for: Over 20 years  I ride: Most days  I would class myself as: Experienced

I regularly do the following types of riding: time trialling, commuting, general fitness riding, fixed/singlespeed,

Touring bike
Salsa Fargo
Kona
drop bar and discs

Add new comment

7 comments

Avatar
iandon | 3 years ago
0 likes

Bought a practically unused 2009 secondhand version in 2012 to replace a 12yr old Scott mtb for the 32 mile round trip commute.  Its now 2021 and clocked up 42,500km.  The bottom bracket is still the original square drive one supplied!  I have only onece replaced the original front and rear brake pads!!!.     This is the most reliaible and safest bike ever!  I did change the tyres shortly after I bought it to some 28mm Continental Gatortskin. This made the bike much more resistant to puncutres..(only three in 9 yrs!).  I wish I had an excuse to change something else but have been blown away with its reliability. The disc brakes have helped keep me safe and stop whenever asked. The commute is an undulating mixture of three Lancashire towns and their rural bits in-between.  Its solid design and weight helps to make your legs strong.  When the weekend comes around there will not be many other cyclists overtaking you!  If you’re thinking of commuting to work then can highly recommend searching the internet for one. You will be surprised how little you will pay for such a good work horse.

Ian.  https://www.strava.com/athletes/2617122

 

Avatar
kompo | 14 years ago
0 likes

I own a 2009 version and its quite a great bike! May I ask you what are the mudguards reference (sks something ?) that you photographed with your bike setup ?
Best
K.

Avatar
iandon replied to kompo | 3 years ago
0 likes

Sorry for the delay in reply.  The rear gaurd is an MK 1 Crud gaurd for a MTB.  The front is from a Giant defy which I put on the opposite way from what its supposed to be.  This way the surface water is kept away from being blown back into your eyes.  Another advantage is that your feet dont interfere with the front mudgaurd when doing trackstands at traffic lights.  Hope this makes sence? 

Avatar
Eyebrox | 14 years ago
0 likes

I love this bike, having used two mountain bikes previously - one with knobbly tyres for off road and one with slicks for on road. This is an ideal combination of road and MTB, compact gearing with Megadrive ring at the back and dropped topbar at the crotch. It's heavy at 28lbs but suits my style of cycling. Don't worry if you've just bought one and are worried about the lack of bite in the braking. Ride it for 100 miles and screw in the hand operated brake pad screws to push them nearer the rotor. Superb, easily adjusted brakes therafter. Kona do a Torx key which fits neatly into the centre of the plastic altering screws. Ask your dealer for one - they come free with the bike so that shop mechanics can set up the discs easily. One problem I did have was removing the pedals. They seem to be welded on and no amount of leverage or heat treat would release the pedal axles. Had to replace the crankset (£24) after chewing it up with pedal spanner. There is no facility either for undoing the pedals with Allan keys. Even the local car workshop couldn't free up the pedals. Anyhow, all's well and I'm doing 100 miles a week. Enjoy!

Avatar
Mountainboy | 14 years ago
0 likes

I bought one on the scheme last November, my commute is 19 miles each way between WsM & Portishead. Urban roads, A370, quiet lanes and the coast road.
The Dew Drop has been fantastic, not had to change anything, fitted SKS guards from the moment I got it and have a Topeak rack on it too. Didn't have a problem with the rack & guard eyes either.
I agree totally about the tyres, they are sluggish in the extreme, I have only had one puncture so far and that was a very slow one. I will change the tyres when they wear out, sadly I have only done a couple of thousand miles though so maybe another 6 months or so before I can fit something more responsive.
I have done a weekend tour on it too, I was also very happy to have the silly sprocket onboard, especially trying to get up to the top of Glastonbury Tor for a sneaky wild camp.

Avatar
dave atkinson | 14 years ago
0 likes

Brakes are cable-operated Avid BB7s, they're powerful and easy to set up

Avatar
carl j | 14 years ago
0 likes

This is a thoroughly brilliant review. My commute is a 30 mile jaunt down the A40 each day, which is equivalent to riding through a car wash spraying grit on wet days. It ruins everything. Even my specs. So, I've been looking for a fast-ish commuter bike with drop bars and disc brakes, because 10 months of ride will see off a set of wheels, 6 sets of blocks, and cables.. This looks worthy of consideration. The weight doesn't seem a problem, and chunky tyres on my commute actually make me faster because they are more comfortable.... My 1980's road frame isn't exactly light either, so.... cheers for the review. Are the brakes cable or hydraulic?

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