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philhubbard
I know it sounds stupid but
I know it sounds stupid but read a few books as well around racing, will do wonders for your tactics. The Racer, Boyracer, Shadows on the Road and The Rider by Tim Krabb. All have plenty of good bits of information and tactics
philhubbard
Maybe try these guys; http:/
Maybe try these guys; http://www.cu-ljubljana.com/index.php high end store just outside of Ljubljana. They should be able to save you a bike box for a small instore spend
philhubbard
Joe Totale wrote:Aren’t AGR2 Mondialle the only pro team using oversized jockey wheels?I’m sure that if the performance benefits were substantial then all the pro teams would be using them.
DD are as well, don’t think many other people are using mixed drivetrain either apart from these two
philhubbard
Ask the shop to bleed the
Ask the shop to bleed the brakes. With new pads you will need to do a few quick stops to bed the pads in before riding. It sounds like the fluid could do with topping up.
philhubbard
I would wait for a few months
I would wait for a few months if at all possible. The new 105 R7000 is coming out and looks to be greatly improved.
At the very least it should drive the RS505 levers price down
philhubbard
Dorrica wrote:Joe Totale wrote:Work on your descending technique and treat yourself to some new brake pads if needed. The Quattro Carbons have a reputation as some of the best braking carbon wheels out there.I’d only buy another set of alloy wheels if you also need a set of winter training wheels.
I think I might take your advise on the second set for winter training – thank you.
I mentioned the Cero AR30’s, are there any better alternatives that you guys could recommend? Hunt. Mavic?v
Thanks again, hope you’re all enjoying the lovely weather!
I’m on my second set of Cero’s, first one have got 8000miles on and just had their second bearing change and that’s it.
I’d recommend the AR24’s, the claimed weights are wrong on the site and there is only 30g between them and the AR30
philhubbard
I’d say it’s an extremely
I’d say it’s an extremely tricky one to be honest, especially to prove.
There is a strong chance although it was a safety recall on the product they may ask you to prove that you were not at fault for breaking the hanger. Normally the fault is for a certain percentage so they have to recall all the products.
Under normal circumstances I would have expected the hanger to have broken a lot quicker than 2 and a half years if it wasn’t substantially strong.
It also looks like your hanger may have been bent before it broke but it is hard to tell from the image
philhubbard
peted76 wrote:philhubbard wrote:For different bikes you need to be taking measurements from the ground. Go ground to top of saddle and then ground to nose of the saddle.Er not sure that’s right Phil.. I have a road bike with a lower bottom bracket than the other..
However saying that, personally I find trying to get find the centre of the BB with a chainset installed is a right pain. If there’s another way.. I’m all ears.
Sorry mate, had a bit of a brain fart. You will be alright with the bars, but Pete’s right about the top of the saddle to the centre of the chainset
philhubbard
For different bikes you need
For different bikes you need to be taking measurements from the ground. Go ground to top of saddle and then ground to nose of the saddle.
Also, try measuring the centre of the bar to the floor for both bikes. Then ideally you need to go on a level measurement from the centre of the seatpost to the centre of your bars (obviously this only works if you’re using the same bar reach and shifters)
philhubbard
May be worth checking the
May be worth checking the centerlock rotor is tight if you didn’t do this when popping the bike together
philhubbard
Old ground coffee wrapping is
Old ground coffee wrapping is a usual favourite
philhubbard
Have you taken a look at the
Have you taken a look at the Cero RC45’s?
A lot lighter than what you were looking at; https://www.cycledivision.co.uk/wheels/cero-rc45-evo-carbon-clincher-wheelset-2017
philhubbard
If you put where you are
If you put where you are based we may be able to help you out with some shops that offer a good service. With a Retul fit as Pete said they put you on a static bike and just keep stretching and shrinking it for you until it is perfect.
They then pop the measurements into the computer and it should give you your ideal bikes and sizes. An endurance model sounds like it could be right for taking some pressure of your wrists and maybe a saddle a little longer in length may help so you can slide forward.
philhubbard
Ronald wrote:
Ronald wrote:
I like the idea of Athena (rather prefer the name for some reason), and have looked at it. Unfortunately it only takes a 29 officially… In north Lancs we have these very sharp 20%+ climbs, and I insist on not having to walk them. Can actually cobble together the triple from several sources still, but price wise barely (or none, if prepared to order from race view) an advantage over Potenza… Nor genuinely any gear ratio advantage over any 11-32 compact group.Crampy wrote:I would go for the best you can afford. If you try to make yourself happy with a lesser gruppo when you could have afforded the better one, you will fail.
Or you could do as I did – look around for deals, check ebay religiously and mix and match. For Campag, Athena 11 speed works with pretty much everything (last gen 10 speed stuff and first gen 11 speed stuff onward).
My road bike started out with a ten speed Centaur (previous generation carbon) set up.
It was then updated with Athena 11 speed derailleurs, an Athena carbon crank and Super Record (first gen 11 speed) shifters. I am now looking around for the rest of the Super Record kit to complete the set.
The stuff I take off goes into the parts bin for future builds.
I’m running the triple Athena deraileur with an 11-32 and semi faux compact. All runs smoothly
philhubbard
wellsprop wrote:fukawitribe wrote:wellsprop wrote:philhubbard wrote:I use a Campag drivetrain with an Ultegra cassette and Sram chain. I know it’s sacrilege but you can use any 11 speed wheels and it shifts just as well. My Athena carbon was cheaper than 105 at the timeI guess you are using Shimano or Sram levers for that to work?
It’ll work with Campag levers – cassette spacing is the ~same for SRAM/Shimano/Campagnolo 11-speed.
Every day is a school day!
Yep, should have been clearer. Athena Carbon shifters, cranks and deraileur. Only works on 11 speed though. The KMC chain is slightly better than the Sram to be honest but last time I swapped it it was the only one I had to hand
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